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I have the following parts for sale. Shipping is not included
Radiator with both fans for manual trans 3000gt or stealth. $100.00
Stock infinity Headunit from 94 3000gt SL
Stock 6 disc CD changer w/ carpet
Stock CD changer cable that goes from the changer to the headunit, but still in the car.
Factory infinity amp that goes under the passenger seat
Everything works great, mint condition. Even have original manual for the CD changer. It plays burned CD's as well. $100
Both front bumper struts. Make me an offer.
1 Front side signal light. Do not remember what side, but I can check. Make an offer.
Thank you
Patrick.
http://LowCarbforMen.com Making Healther Life.
I have the following parts for sale. Shipping is not included
Radiator with both fans for manual trans 3000gt or stealth. $100.00
Stock infinity Headunit from 94 3000gt SL
Stock 6 disc CD changer w/ carpet
Stock CD changer cable that goes from the changer to the headunit, but still in the car.
Factory infinity amp that goes under the passenger seat
Everything works great, mint condition. Even have original manual for the CD changer. It plays burned CD's as well. $100
Both front bumper struts. Make me an offer.
1 Front side signal light. Do not remember what side, but I can check. Make an offer.
Thank you
Patrick.
http://LowCarbforMen.com Making Healther Life.
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I have the following parts for sale. Shipping is not included
Radiator with both fans for manual trans 3000gt or stealth. $100.00
Stock infinity Headunit from 94 3000gt SL
Stock 6 disc CD changer w/ carpet
Stock CD changer cable that goes from the changer to the headunit, but still in the car.
Factory infinity amp that goes under the passenger seat
Everything works great, mint condition. Even have original manual for the CD changer. It plays burned CD's as well. $100
Both front bumper struts. Make me an offer.
1 Front side signal light. Do not remember what side, but I can check. Make an offer.
Thank you
Patrick.
http://LowCarbforMen.com Making Healther Life.
low carb, low carb diet, lowcarb, low carbohydrate, low carbohydrate diet, low carb diets, lowcarbing, net carbs, suger free, low carbohydrate diet, low fat, low sugar, atkins, atkins diet, dr atkins, dr atkins diet, south beach, south beach diet, zone diet, nutrition, nutrition system, nutritionsystem, health, obesity, weight loss, diet, dieting, lo carb, locarb, lo-carb, diet plan, rapid weight loss, weight loss program, protein diet, low-carb, diet program, ketones, ketone, ketostix, starch, sugar, splenda, lowcarb beer, stevia, equal, artificial sweetner, scales, pounds, inches, fat grams, grams, gram, CAD, carb counter, fad diets, doctors, low fat diet, foods, body fat, fitness, mens fitness, men health
well first, your message says "hey man", I'm a female. If you don't mind an opinion and some 411 from one, I have some. And yes i know your inquiring about a VR-4.
On the West Coast:
Late 90's 3000gt SL Coupe's with no body damage, close to perfect interior, no rust or cracked glass, in good/exellent running condition, manual trans, and 120,000 miles on the engine, will blue book at about $10,000.
A early 90's 3000gt 2dr SL Coupe's with some body and interior work needed, some mechanical or cosmetic defects that need servicing but reasonable running condition, tires probably need to be replaced, possibly the occasional rust damage in minimal places, manual trans with 170,000 miles on the engine, blue books at $3,250.
Late 90's 3000gt VR-4's with these same spec's, blue book ruffley $1400 more than the SL Coupe. Early 90's VR-4's blue book only ruffley $200 more than the SL Coupe.
O.k., the engine. At 186,000 miles your looking at atleast new rings and piston. But truthfully, I'd rebuild the whole engine. If you plan to keep this car for awhile don't wait till bit's and pieces start failing hear and there and try to have them replaced or fixed as you go. Because one day your belt could slip off and you could instantly loose your engine. When the 3000gt runs with no belt for even a minuet, bad things happen. To put it simple.
Then, after all that money that went into fixing it over time, could of payed for a used motor with 50,000 mls and then some or 65-75% of your rebuild. Now you'd be doing it anyway. Now, not to discourage you, but in my opinion, when you start pushing 100,000 mls in a 3000gt, they sometimes like to give no, and I mean no warning signs before a major part goes bad in/on the engine. Almost like a "silent death" to some part of the motor.
After all that info I gave you, hopefully it helps you make a desicion on that one specific car. And in the future if this wasn't the one.
Good Luck "kid"
Dani
problem, car runs one day, then wont turn over the next. i have taken this to many mechanics. those guys cant figure it out. i have had tune up after tune up. and no progress. i am seeking advice from someone that actually owns one of these rare cars. at this point i could have bought a new engine outright. but since i am in the military and bought it before 2 iraq deployments, i just havent had the time. now that i do, i am out of money and i seem to have a serious lemon on my hands. if anyone knows this car inside and out, please help me. it seems like an electric problem. but i dont know cars inside and out. the computer checks out and everything with the engine is good.i am tired of giving money to idiots that only work on chevy and ford cars. i will be starting college next year. automotive is def on my schedule. i just want to drive my dream car and be able to fix it myself. thank you.
Chris.
A datalogger will diagnose your entire system in a couple of minutes and supply you with fault code numbers for each thing that is wrong with your car. You can then look up the codes online at many various 3000GT forum sites (3Si.org for one) or 3S car clubs ("Team3S" Car Club once you know a LOT about 3000GT's). Without a datalogger you are in big trouble because the dealership or even a small car shop is just dieing to get all your cash and believe me they will if you let them.
If you are going to own one of these fine cars, you have to really love it and treat it with care or it will bite you in the [non-permissible content removed]. You've heard of "Pay now or Pay later", well it is definitely true here.
One thing that I have noticed so far is that aparantly a lot of you have bought cars for a really cheap price ($2500 to $3500)that need work right off the bat, and I am here to tell you that it gets expensive real quick if you don't take care of the problems as quickly as possible......even then it will get VERY expensive. That's why you got the car for just a few thousand dollars. Think of that money as a down payment for the great car you will have when you are done..... sorry!
I own a 1991 3000GT SL in MINT condition inside and out, but I bought it in really good shape already. I knew how much repairs on these cars are after doing a little research. But in order to get one in mint condition inside and out, I had to do my homework and pay the price. After immediately doing the 60,000 mile timing belt/water pump maintenance at $750.00(an ABSOLUTE MUST).....and a fresh tune up which is over $350-$400 (you'll find out why!), and a new custom aircarft grade "Emron" paint job ($3500), I had about $10,000.00 invested in this car. That's what it takes if you want it mint. If you go and buy one of these cars for $2,000, or even $3500, you are fooling yourself if you think you have a car that has all the current maintenance......it just ain't possible. Those of us who did the propper maintenance, and have already been where you are now, know what lies ahead for you, and you can expect something major to break down SOON unles you do the maintenance first.
I'm not trying to scare you off, your car is worth doing the work, but you must fix it propperly. I am just trying to explain that a car that cost $35,000 new(DOHC SL Loaded) to $45,000 (DOHC VR4 loaded)is not going to fall in your lap for $2500+ unless it needs ALL of the sceduled maintenance, and probably a new paint job, tires, brakes,struts, a clutch for sure, and a BUNCH of hidden incidentals that these cars entale.
Make sure your ECU is good and that it has been UPGRADED with new capacitors (3 of them)or it will go bad from acid burn FOR SURE. The dealership wants $1200 to actually replace it, and I think it should have been a factory recall in the first place, but oh well. You can replace the capacitors yourself if you are handy with a soldering gun, but I suggest you let someone else do it.
Now you may get really lucky and the tires, brakes and struts are good on your car(about a $1400+ savings)or good enough to drive for now, but the clutch is a whole different story. You haven't driven a 3000GT until you've driven one with a nice tight clutch and I don't mean a stock one either. It will blow you back in your seat and you will be hooked forever, lol. But seriously, plan on needing a new clutch. The nice aftermarket clutches actually cost almost the same as a stock one if you get it on Ebay (get at least a Stage 2 or Stage 3).
But here's the good news: When these cars are in perect running order they stay that way for a VERY long time. As long as you do the 60,000 mile timing belt/water pump maintenance and do it "ON TIME EVERY TIME", this car will be an incredible driving experience for you and won't cost you anything except the usual brake pads or turn the rotors. Even a tune up lasts 100,000 miles! And NOW you can start thinking about modifying your car and getting some real horse power!! The SL has 222 HP and can easily get up to 300+ HP with just a few mods. Same thing for the VR4. You can add 100+ HP to ANY model with a piggyback ECU and tuner software, bigger injectors, a downpipe, a bigger exhaust, and a CAI. I left out a couple of things, but you get the idea.
I guess what I am trying to say is........you definitely get what you pay for when it comes to a 3000GT wether it is a VR4 or a GT SL or a SOHC Base model (yuk). Get that datalogger.....translate those codes.......do that maintenance.....and have a great time doing it!!!!
Ricco
But it will be in show room shape inside and out with all the bells and whistles and run 12's in the 1/4 mile. I have seen VR4's run 10's in the 1/4 mile, and the record right now is an amazing 9.2 in the 1/4 mile....now that car is FAST......and worth a lot more than blue book, LOL. I bet that car will sell for well over $20,000.
To tune up one of these cars you have to take half the engine apart (almost). The entire CAI and intake system has to be taken OFF the car to get to the back 3 cylinders....it is quite time consuming at $75 per hour. And I cannot believe that your mechanic hasn't datalogged your entire system and fixed each fault code as it came up.
Wouldn't you be pizzed off if it is something simple like the "clutch depress sensor switch" has a short? That will not let your car start unless the clutch is pressed all the way to the floor. That switch can get a short in the wire between the switch itself and the white plastic connector a few inches away (connector has a green and a black wire coming out of it) that goes to the ECU. It is a $10 part, and will show up on a Datalogger if it is shorting out. GET THAT DATALOGGER!!!
Ricco
any one have any ideas?
Have you had your O2 sensor checked? If that is bad, it will not start and will putter too. On the Fed Specs' it is located at the very end of your downpipe right before the CAT closest to the engine side of the CAT.
On a Cali Spec there are 4 of those suckers, and I am not sure where they all are.......2 of them are located on the downpipe close to the exhaust manifold on both the front and rear manifold pipes. I hope that helps.
Ricco
Trouble in La
Mine is fine, and I have to warm it up a little before it stops trying to grind a little, but it doesn't grind a LOT or have to be put in second gear though, and just takes a minute to warm up enough to work properly.
I would warm it up for a minute or two and try it again, and if it still grinds or has to be put in second, you will have to replace those syncros, and they ain't cheap!
While I've got you here, might as well WARN you about the 60K maintenance (timing belt change and water pump replace). You MUST do this and do it ON TIME. This engine will have catastrophic damage if that belt breaks. This engine is not like most engines that will just stop moving forward if the belt breaks. Your valves will be bent all to hell when the pistons crash into them because of the way this engine is built. Your car will be toast unless you do that maintenance when you are supposed to!! You replace the water pump with the timing belt because it cost a LOT of money to break the engine down to get to the pump when you are already there when replacing the timing belt....just makes sense. BTW, be prepaired to pay about $750 to $800 for the 60K maintenance. It is the most expensive thing you will have to do to this car if you keep everything up to date.
Now, if your car is somewhere between 60K and 120 K, DO NOT TRUST THAT IT WAS ALREADY DONE AT 60K UNLESS YOU HAVE A RECEIPT.
This car is very expensive to work on if you just let things go, and can bankrupt you QUICK. But on the other hand, when this car is running well and taken good care of, it will last a LONG time with little or no maintenance on it except for brake pads, etc......so just keep a good belt on it and keep it tuned up.
Merlin
My soon to be ex drove my car and fell asleep!!! Some how he only broke the light and a few scuffs!
The dealership wants $500.00!!!!!!
By the way, its dark green/teal. But any will do!
Thanks!
i don't know where to find parts for my '93 mitsubishi 3000gt, any help finding a transmission -5 speed manuel- rebuilt or used in good condition would be greatly appreciated.
thanks, bill
Does anybody know how to get their hands on a spoiler off a 99 VR4.
I want one badly, need help.
Oh, to the guy wanting an easy explanation on changing out the timing belt......THERE IS NO EASY WAY TO DO IT. That is called the "60K maintenance", and it costs about $750.00 to $800.00, and that includes a new timint belt and water pump too since you have to break down the engine to get to the belt and the water pump is right there. It's best to replace the water pump right then. Unless you are a good mechanic, I would let someone else do the 60K maintenance for you.
As far as your car not starting....if it doesn't turn over at all, it may very well be your POSITIVE battery terminal is too loose. I had to replace mine after I bought a new Optima battery because it was too loose and my car did the same thing, so check that out first.
More here:
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/koni/koni_faq.jsp
or for a good non-adj shock, look at these:
http://www.autocarparts.com/c_Mitsubishi_3000GT_c_Suspension_m_Bilstein/
I don't know whether you have the ECS adjustable suspension, but you'd notice this device on the top of your struts. This was phased out in 1995.
As for shifting, you might try Redline Synthetic transmission oil.