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Subaru B9 Tribeca: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • sdhjfsdhjf Member Posts: 6
    I believe you all are right if the customer is paying the bill or if the Dealer is guaranteed reimbursement from Subaru of America. But if you take a disabled new car to a dealer far from your home, good luck getting a replacement vehicle for no charge while repairs are made if you did not buy the car there. My dealer has been excellent. Roadside assistance was far from adequate. I was lucky and able to reach the sales department of my hometown dealership.
  • foxbat121foxbat121 Member Posts: 211
    So you're complaining about not being able to get a free loaner. Not about the dealer not fixing the car for you. As outlined by your waranty, a loaner car is only available to you if the dealer can not fix the car the same day. Yes, we all love *free* loaner cars. But that actually comes from the premium you paid for the new car. Given the choice of $10k more on a new car or pay for my own loaner cars, I'd pick later in a heart beat. Note, dealers can give out free loaners at their own cost. None of my local dealers do that unless you're doing big services like 30k, 60k services etc.
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Member Posts: 648
    my dealer just got in 3 subaru legacies for loaners on Monday. not sure but sounds like they were provided under some deal from Subaru corporate. they had to transfer the titles and such still.

    but also to position the B9 as a luxury vehicle they need to make the loaner a universal company coverage. Chrysler did that for the Pacifica to compete with the Lexus, Acura, ect. (but this has all been covered before in the B9 Thread earlier this year)....
  • solhornsolhorn Member Posts: 2
    At high speeds the steering automatically tightens up to give you better performance. could this be what the problem was?
  • jeffkentjeffkent Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone who owns a C9 tell me if you can enter an address or destination into the Nav while the car is moving? Also, I saw somewhere that you can add 100 'waypoints' or 'destinations' into the unit and save them for future access. Is this accurate? From other discussions I have read here, it looks like the units in the 7-pass model does not include/support voice commands! Can anyone confirm that? The car has to be in 'park' in order for the rear seat DVD to be displayed on the front Nav screen. Can this be 'overridden?' Finally, when watching a DVD from the back on the front screen, how clear is the picture? I didn't see any specs on the front screen resolution. Thanks to all who reply.
    Jeff
  • foxbat121foxbat121 Member Posts: 211
    While car is moving, you can only select from preset destinations or previous destinations. You can not type addresses while moving. There is no voice commands (speach recognition for input) in Nav unit. You're not suppose to watch DVD on front screen while driving. That's a safety issue.
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Member Posts: 648
    umm there is "hypothetically" a way to override the dvd locked out when driving ...

    it actually is not linked to the drive transmission but to the Parking Brake. you need to fool the system into thinking your parking brake is engaged. Of course that is hypothetical
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Member Posts: 648
    dealer said they heard the rattle but did not know what is causing it so they are basically wrapping in padded foam all the wiring harness ect in the front right dash area.

    Also they tested the other DVDs in the lot and they ALL have lower volumes on the DVD system. So I guess until others complain and Subaru sees the issue will they look at. They logged my issue. so if you think the DVD volume should be set to the same level as the stereo or CD player, file a complaint at the svc department please!
  • subienewbie2subienewbie2 Member Posts: 458
    I do not have a DVD in my B9 but there is normally a difference in volume between different types of media and even between the same type of media.

    When the CD or DVD is recorded originally the volume setting of the recording equipment are set differently. Switch between radio stations and often the volume level changes.

    Television is a good example, your watching your favorite sit-com at a given volume.

    When the commercial comes on the volume goes dramatically. You did not change the volume but that recording was produced at a high volume level.

    So there may not be a problem.
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Member Posts: 648
    Nope this is definitely a problem. the volume level required to hear the movie is about 30% higher then the other sources (Radio, CD, MP3). Also I had the DVD system in my Pacifica and that was perfect. the audio was superior in the DVD of that vehicle (5.1 surround sound) compared to the CDs or Radio.

    The repair shop agreed that it was not normal but (normal for B9s) they tried two other new B9s with DVD video and the same thing. its a design flaw in the entertainment system. they have the preamp gain set too low going from the DVD player into the Head Unit of the stereo. it is not balanced the same level of input as the other sources of audio.

    Again the only audio source I did not test yet is the Audio IN ports in the back seat area. You have to stop by your dealer next time and check one out on his lot... to know that they have some issue.

    the reason why it &*(&*(& me off... is that you turn up the volume to hear the movie and then say forget and switch to Radio or CD and it about blasts your ears out! because the volume is so loud. :mad:
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Member Posts: 648
    :cry: they could not find it. took the dash apart, foam padded the water pump thinking it was under the hood... check the vent area. nothing!

    they definitely hear the problem and it is not on other Tribecas they have on the lot.... seems to appear more when colder weather.

    so they have escalated it to the subaru regional rep. I have to bring the car back when he decides what other things to look at :sick:
  • tls8thtls8th Member Posts: 27
    I agree with the other responses as to the shifting and undercoating. Good luck on narrowing down the smell. As for the tires and their pressure, I maintain all my vehicles tire pressure with what the tire sidewall states usually 44 psi. The ride maybe slightly stiffer but is much safer and greater tread life. The auto makers want you to keep lower pressure due to a softer ride. If you ask the tire makers their answer is whatever the auto makers say (liability falls on the auto makers).
    If you keep your tires at the sidewall amount this will prevent the tire rolling under your rim and cause a catostraphic blow-out during hard cornering or an emergency avoidance maneuver, better gas mileage and longer tread life.
    Just so you know I am an instructor for high performance/defensive driving course with Federal Government.
  • subienewbie2subienewbie2 Member Posts: 458
    I always thought the side wall pressure was the max safe pressure (regardless of how much weight you are carrying) not the recommended pressure.
  • tls8thtls8th Member Posts: 27
    Well it's kinda tricky on who what's the liability. The recommended tire pressure by auto companies is usually lower to make a nicer ride and maybe slightly better gas mileage, their not concerned with tread life that falls on the tire manufacturer.
    Advantages for auto makers with lower pressure:
    Softer ride
    slightly better gas mileage

    Advantages for tire manufacturers
    You like the ride and slightly better gas mileage and tire wears out quicker so you buy them more often.
    If you follow the auto rec's liability falls on them vice tire guys.
    But if you ask anyone that does high performance driving or in the case of an emergency avoidance situation you want the maximum tire pressure for better control and stability.
    As another note in the course I instruct if you have a non-speed rated tire it's the sidewall pressure plus 5 psi.
    This strengthens the sidewall of the tire.
    Only on the really inexpensive autos have I ever noticed a difference in the ride softness.
    With my tires at 44 psi on my B9 we took a trip on the interstate here's the facts:
    distance:133 miles
    avg. speed: 67 mph
    avg. mpg: 23.3 mpg
    occupants: 2 adults, 2 children
    method: mostly cruise control
    Terrain: flat
    traffic: light
  • tyyeh0tyyeh0 Member Posts: 43
    I appreciate the expert info, but I thought that slightly lower pressure(obviously not too low) gives a wider contact patch for better performance driving such as autocrossing.

    In the few times I've gone to the race track and chatting with friends who do this on a regular basis (who do have training), I have never heard driving with pressure all the way up to the max tire pressure.

    Can you point people to actual documentation that backs up these claims?

    Also on mileage, I thought the higher pressure will actually give better mileage rather than lower.

    Anyone else have comments on these claims?
  • tls8thtls8th Member Posts: 27
    You're correct in stating at race tracks and during autocross tires may not be at max. They base the pressures on several factors: air temp, track temp, expected tire temp increase, distance of race in time and length. And as with most race tracks the turns you make are gradual usually geometric turns. The turns you expect in autocross are more abrupt but are in no way close to an emergency lane change or accident avoidance situation. The larger footprint does help but that depends on if you have rear wheel, front wheel or all-wheel drive. When weight transfers in accelerating or braking this does increase the tires footprints respectively. But we don't have the luxury of knowing the things racers have like exact weather and road conditions so we prepare our vehicles the best we can.
    Not to mention they buy specific tires for racing and autocross, they also have specific tires based on weather.
    Good questions and feedback
    The courses I instruct are utilizing vehicles of everyday travel not scca vehicles, with nothing more than Goodyear Eagle tires.
    The instructor courses I attended are not available to general public therefore I'm not at liberty to state sources. Sorry
  • tls8thtls8th Member Posts: 27
    Also on gas mileage this is what auto makers want but as you see in my trip info I actually have been getting better mileage at the 44 psi, plus I'll get better tread life.
    tls8th
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check out this thread:

    capriracer, "Tires, tires, tires" #5044, 5 Oct 2005 9:54 pm

    I think I'll cross post this thread over there as well.

    Steve, Host
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    You stated that the max pressure is desirable for emergency avoidance maneuvers. While the higher pressure stiffens the tire and will give you less roll, it also reduces the contact area so you have less friction between you and the road. I have spent a fair amount of time experimenting with tire pressure and you definitely lose grip with higher pressures. So you might actually be compromising control in emergency avoidance maneuvers. I would encourage you to rethink the high pressure, or at least research it, before driving your family around with such high pressures -- in an emergency situation, you're probably going to have less control.

    Craig
  • aka1aka1 Member Posts: 110
    Lower tire pressure reduces gas mileage. Keeping your tire inflated to the maximum pressure indicated on the side wall will not reduce your contact area it will actually maximize it. If you over inflate your tire you will notice the CENTER of the tire wearing out more than the shoulders of the tire. If you under inflate your tire and drive on it you will notice bad MPG and have the shoulders of the tire wear out faster than the middle. You are more likely to have a BLOW OUT on under inflated tires due to heat build up and a sudden change in vector will cause the weakest point of the tire to be compromised. This weakest point is one were you notice a bulge on the side wall, can be a weak point were you hit a big pot hole or curb, and may or may not be visible, you may have internal tread separation.

    Funny Cars ie. drag racers, are the only types of racers that I know of that doesn't use maximum tire inflation, most other racers including INDY, Formula try keeping maximum inflation to keep tire temps. at a constant.
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    Inflating the tires too much actually reduces control, because the car becomes very "bouncy" and the tire may lose contact with the road in some emergency maneuver situations. Also, an overinflated tire is more prone to punctures and blowouts when hitting various potholes. The MPG difference between properly inflated tires and way-over-inflated tires is negligible, not worth the increased risk of blow-outs, poor ride quality, and smaller contact pach area.
    Keeping the tires inflated to about +3 PSI above manufacturers specs should be more than adequate.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The consensus over in Tires, tires, tires is that running your tires at the sidewall amount isn't the best practice from a wear and safety standpoint.

    You're going to have to do better than "my sources are secret" to convince me not to rely on the car manufacturer's recommendation on the placard.

    Steve, Host
  • baddad303baddad303 Member Posts: 3
    Same issue on my 06 Tribeca - love the look inside and out and love being the oddball with a Subie, but SUBARU went to Wal-Mart for this radio and CD player - accept it, the radio and speaker system is of poor quality - it will not get better ;-(
  • baddad303baddad303 Member Posts: 3
    Yikes - no sooner was I griping about the quality of the audio system *jinx* - my wife came in and said the CD player is not working - the display read "MECHA ERROR" - obviously short for mechanical error - I looked for this msg in the handy dandy Subie owners manual but nada was found on MECHA ERROR. Egad, anyone else seen this, and if so what was done to correct it, I have tried pulling the fuse, starting the 'beca, reinserting the fuse - to no avail.

    By the way the radio plays, but the 5 loaded CD's will not eject or play. My wife said this started on a company retreat this weekend, where she was playing some STP and Sevendust on the way there, a person with her that she does not know well turns out to be a bit of a presumptuous twit and ax'ed (ahem) her to put in a gospel CD. I would have chunked the guy out, buy my wife does not have charm of her dear hubby. Anyhow she said the CD was not a special shape and it played for a few moments then kaput - the MECHA ERROR message displayed.
  • jandj94jandj94 Member Posts: 17
    My right is slightly higher than my left- driving me a bit crazy. I'll ask them to even them out when I go in for my oil chg. :confuse:
  • jandj94jandj94 Member Posts: 17
    I have about 2700 miles on my 7Pass Ltd.

    1) Right headlight a bit higher than the left
    2) Rear dome light keeps falling out when I hit a bump
    3) When the temperature dropped, my tire pressure went to about 31-32 PSI and the TPMS light went on. (I guess it's good to know when you're 5-10% low).
    4) Also in cooler weather the rear hatch hydraulics move slower and I've bashed my head into it twice. It also doesn't open up all the way sometimes when cold.
    5) With the air temp at about 40 deg. F., the transmission 'bangs' from gear to gear when upshifting after a cold start. Maybe I should get some synthetic transmission fluid?
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Member Posts: 648
    hmm maybe your Tribeca is "possessed" - sorry for the poor halloween humor...

    where is the message popping up at? on your Audio Screen or the area where you read the odometer on the dash?

    bummer - sounds like you need to get it the dealer ... you could try hitting the eject button with the radio turned off and then hold it down and power the radio on... just a wild idea ...
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Member Posts: 648
    its been cold here in the mornings... and just saturday it was out all night and about 40 degrees. did not shift hard at all ... with the cold start... factory transmission fluid... I dont think synth will solve your problem if its dropping in gear hard.
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Member Posts: 648
    has anyone got a diagram of the fog light lens area? is it a separate lens or part of the entire fog light assembly ? thanks just need to know what I need to order and if I can just change out the lens.

    Took a serious rock hit in the fog light lens on one side :sick:
  • baddad303baddad303 Member Posts: 3
    Uh Oh - this does not sound good - I have the same issue - the Subie dealer is going to have to remove the entire console to get to the disc magazine - I sure (ahem) it will be put back together just the way I purchased it (right).

    see post # 137 and #138
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Member Posts: 648
    Looks like the lens is availble separately for $80 :surprise:

    or you can buy the whole foglight assembly for $95 :confuse:

    the amount of time to heat the lens and remove and reglue the new lens I thinkg buying the whole assembly makes more sense.

    now I noticed the right lens has a small crack in it. going to try windshield repair on that side... the left lens is really cracked :mad:
  • aka1aka1 Member Posts: 110
    What do you think you hit to cause so much damage to the lenses- and both of the lenses as well? Any other damage to the bottom of the front air dam?

    I'd probably replace the whole unit, and save the old one for parts... Good luck

    AKA
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You get a CHASE Subaru credit card and save up Subaru Bucks.

    We've got $300 stashed away. Got a rock chip on the windshield of our Legacy, so with a $100 insurance deductible, it'll be free, and we'll still have $200 left. :)

    -juice
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Member Posts: 648
    absolutely nothing... normal commute to work on the highway.

    the front bumper is in perfect shape. the lens on the foglight is way too thin plastic. its needs to be glass or they need to make a rock shield like they do for the WRX line.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's what I would recommend. Cut the film to fit, and voila, it's protected.

    -juice
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Member Posts: 648
    how would you hold it up without a full front bumper bra?

    I do not like those because you have to keep them clean underneath or the dirt will act like sandpaper to the car finish.
  • mattame1mattame1 Member Posts: 7
    I was washing the car the other day and noticed a road chip spot on the car and rust was forming! I purchased the vehicle in Sept in DE and now currently live in NC. Do I just have to take it to the local dealer for touch-up?
    I don't think Mahogony Red paint is out in the stores yet. Thanks for the advise.
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Member Posts: 648
    Does anyone have a diagram of how the fog light lens is assembled to the fog light body? it looks like it might snap on .. or is it like alot of tail lens - they use a heat sensitive type glue/sealant ...
    :confuse:
  • aka1aka1 Member Posts: 110
    I would think the part is bonded to the housing to keep moisture out of it... You'd have to get to it anyway to fix it, might as well remove and inspect.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The panels that aren't aluminum are galvanized steel. That basically coats the panels to prevent rust. Then they are primered and painted.

    But it sounds like the chip was deep enough to get through all that and expose the bare, unprotected metal. The coating was basically scraped off.

    Clean the area up with some naval jelly (be careful and read the instructions) and then use a dab of touch-up paint. You want to cover the exposed area as soon as possible.

    -juice
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Member Posts: 648
    not necessarily .. if I can remove only the front lens, I am going to attempt to repair the fog light lens with a windshield repair kit :)
  • aka1aka1 Member Posts: 110
    Actually, after doing a little research, I found this link- this may actually work for you based on how big the crack is.

    glassfix.com/headtail.html (with the www. in the front)
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Member Posts: 648
    actually that is probably the same stuff as the windshield repair kits. they use UV to harden. the thing is how to keep the stuff from falling into the light housing. so if I can take off the lens then its easy to fill.
  • vger105vger105 Member Posts: 57
    We ordered a Seacrest Green Tribeca, which we're picking up Monday, and we are so excited! The only problem is that Subaru, for some unknown reason, doesn't offer satellite radio in its cars.
    Has anyone added this feature? We have one in our Quest, but it's attached to the dashboard and looks so "added on."
    We're hoping a more sophisticated way of getting satellite radio is possible.
    Thanks.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Try the XM & Sirius Satellite Radio discussion for aftermarket ideas.

    Steve, Host
  • aka1aka1 Member Posts: 110
    You have to be careful about the windshield repair kits, during the curing/hardening process there is heat- and can possibly melt the plastic- make sure the resin is formulated for plastic- again something I learned through the link I sent you.

    I think it would be better to remove the whole assembly and then try to work with it, much easier on your back. I'm sure it'll turn out just fine- worst case scenario you buy another unit, best case, costs you $10!
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Member Posts: 648
    NO Heat :) in the windshield repair kit. it hardens via exposure to UV light just like the stuff the pros use to fix your cracked windshield. the question is how to get the @#$@$# fog light lens off the fog light assembly :confuse:

    anyone see where I can find a diagram of it?
  • foxbat121foxbat121 Member Posts: 211
    I found that the rattles on mine started when I start to open the sun roof while driving. So I closed sunroof while driving for now to see if it is the cause. So far, I haven't heard any rattle yet.
  • cluelesspacluelesspa Member Posts: 648
    thanks for the tip.. I hardly ever use the sunroof.. its always closed. the rattle I have is behind the glovebox area of the dash. they took apart the dash and glove box to no luck :(
  • mattame1mattame1 Member Posts: 7
    naval jelly? where do i get that and where can i purchase some touch-up paint for the mahogony red? the local sub body shop did not have a small jar. do i need to order on line? thanks
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