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I don't know that you are lucky you that NY has that law. I would rather pay a $395 doc fee (what I paid) then have to pay sales tax on the entire purchase price of the car. In most states you only pay the tax on each month's payment.
2005 G35 Sedan2007 G35 Sedan
2008 G37 Sedan
2010 G37 Coupe
2012 G37 Sedan
2014 Q50 RWD
2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
2018 QX60 RWD
http://www.leasecompare.com/lcforums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1830
Obviously I'd also rather pay a doc fee than sales tax but I have no choice
I have priced shopped what I am looking for to death. Let me know if you think this is a fair price.
2009 G37 Coupe- Journey - with Premium and sports package.
Including lighted foot thing, cargo net MSRP 43035.
I am in Southern California.
1k drive off and a monthly payment of 533 not including tax. 10k miles and 36 month lease.
Thanks
MSRP: 41325
Price: 38500
total out of pocket was 1800 which included some fees
39 months at $525 (including tax) with 12K per year
Purchase option 23,000
Any opinions on this deal? It seemed fair.
[For those interested, my initial quote is below]
48-Mo. lease per my request (MSRP of this one $40,705) was $453/ Mo, with $3999 (plus TTL) at signing. Total payments over 48 mos would be $25,743 (+ TTL + fees). Clearly a horrible deal. I understand after reading this forum and other places that 39 mos will likely be to my benefit.
Trying to work an incentive through work to lease my company car for $2500 + TTL up front, $400/ mo x 39 mos. Seem plausible ?
Hello Mike. Josh from Lynes Infiniti. If i ate your 2 payments totaling $938 and moved your mileage from 12,000 to 15,000 per year your monthly payment would be $534.37 including your NJ Taxes.. Keep in mind this has to be a car in stock or due to arrive this month on my inbound board. Your total drive off would be due at signing $1786.95. Your selling Price on the car is $37,789, money factor is .00141
and the residual is 55% $22,759
If you have any additional questions please feel free to call or email me back.
Look forward to your response
Someone please comment on this deal....
2008 2dr G37S Journey, Prem, Sport, Spoiler
2600 down
39x15K
430.00 a month including tax
2005 G35 Sedan2007 G35 Sedan
2008 G37 Sedan
2010 G37 Coupe
2012 G37 Sedan
2014 Q50 RWD
2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
2018 QX60 RWD
Residual was 21K. I don't have all the other lease info in front of me.
Hello Mike. Paul from Infiniti. If i ate your 2 payments totaling $938 and moved your mileage from 12,000 to 15,000 per year your monthly payment would be $534.37 including your NJ Taxes.. Keep in mind this has to be a car in stock or due to arrive this month on my inbound board. Your total drive off would be due at signing $1786.95. Your selling Price on the car is $37,789, money factor is .00141
and the residual is 55% $22,759
That being said this looks like a good deal considering they are paying your last two lease payments. I calculate invoice around 38k for the car, you are getting it for 37.8k. I can't calculate the payment because you didn't supply the tax rate, nor the term.
2005 G35 Sedan2007 G35 Sedan
2008 G37 Sedan
2010 G37 Coupe
2012 G37 Sedan
2014 Q50 RWD
2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
2018 QX60 RWD
Just got my loaded G37x Sedan 2 days ago and love it. Just trying to figure out the center portion of the liquid crystal display (LCD), on the dashbooard. Next to the gear shift indicator, for example, "P" is displayed when the car is in park. Right next to that is a smaller "A". What does that stand for? To the right of that there are 2 sets of digits. One seems to represent the permanent odometer, and I thought the other represents the trip odometer, but that doesn't seem to be so, because that is located just above and that resets when the elapsed time resets.
Can anyone shed any light? Thanks to all in advance.
2005 G35 Sedan2007 G35 Sedan
2008 G37 Sedan
2010 G37 Coupe
2012 G37 Sedan
2014 Q50 RWD
2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
2018 QX60 RWD
What's a good price? From what I see here it seems $2k below invoice.
Also interested in 36 mo 22k-25k mile lease. Zero down (just firstmonth drive off). I tend to flip cars every 3 years, and what the lease factor and residual would be.
Car_man
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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum
Car_man
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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum
Car Man, do you know if that is still an offering now?
My husbands lease on his Cadillac STS is up, and since GMAC is still not offering leasing, we might be interested in leasing a G37 convertible.
In addtion to the lease loyalty question;
-are there lease rates available on the convertible?
-lease residual & MF on 36 mos, 10k or 12k per yr.
-buy down of MF rate using multiple security deposits
if you have any of this info, would be greatly appreciated.
I'm looking into leasing my third Infiniti vehicle as the lease on my current 2006 G35 Sedan is coming to an end in October, 2009.
I recently purchased a 2008 Infiniti G35 Sedan/Journey/Premium/Tire & Wheel package and am paying $356 per month w/ $2800 down which included the first payment. What do you think about the following lease deal I got?
A couple of days ago I received a letter about a special 'Vehicle Buy Back event.' The letter states that Glendale Infiniti is 'looking to acquire your [my] 2006 Infiniti G35 Sedan and any other 2007 and older vehicles in your [my] household.' As a result, they would like for me to 'exchange your [my] 2006 Infiniti G35 Sedan for a new 2009 Infiniti car.'
What does this necessarily mean? Do I stop making payments until October, 2009 on the 2006 and get myself into a new one without any strings attached? Or will the remainder of what I have to pay off slap on to the price of the new one they're so willingly offering?
Thanks in advance.
It's a way to get you into the dealership. I got those letters even on the car that I trade-in 2 years back.
Why are "special offers" (lease prices) on Infiniti dealer sites different than special offers on Infiniti's site? Why is there no standardization?
Why does everyone always ask the same question: "is this a good deal?" Doesn't even one person unequivocally know what a good lease price is?
Does this confusion, or complexity, put the dealer at a great advantage? In other words, are dealers happy no one knows what a good lease deal is?
Isn't the total price you pay the dealer, down payment plus total monthly payments the only number that really matters? How does any other number or percentage or MF or residual or even total cost of the car help anyone understand anything if you have no intention of buying the car when the lease ends? Add your total down payment to 39 months of payments, that's it, it doesn't need to be more complicated than that, right? So why does it sound soooo complicated when you read this forum.
Isn't it true that you can be quoted a low msrp and low invoice but still be snaked by a high lease payment? If so, then doesn't that mean the price of the car is often or sometimes used as a manipulation to get the down and the monthly higher? In other words, the quoted price almost doesn't matter and isn't the guiding force of your total lease payments, it's your total paid to the dealer that matters.
I like the 09 G37x coupe but for the life of me I can't figure out the lease price even after reading all these posts. I also don't understand why the Nav is so incredibly expensive, aren't great portable Nav's around $200? Sorry, I guess I have sticker shock on that one, someday soon though I bet car dealers will start offering Navs at half the price of what it is now, you know, as an incentive to buy their brand. I mean really, how can just a Nav cost nearly 20% of the entire 39 month lease cost?
Anyway, I see dealers offering on their websites a 2009 G37x coupe for $399 a month for 39 months and 10,000 miles but they don't say the price, or how it's equipped or what the down payment is, so really, I know it's not going to be just $399 a month. I know I can ask a dealer, it's just that I want to go in with a firm idea first. It can be embarrassing talking to a dealer on the lot about a lease, I had one actually say to me, we can get your monthly lower, you just have to make a bigger down payment upfront, as if that was saving me money, it was not an Infiniti dealer.
So, I guess on a simple level, has anyone leased a 2009 G37x coupe with Nav, and if so what was your down payment, your monthly and your miles? Thanks if you know. Sorry for the meandering, I actually am trying to simplify the process, you know, sort of like Obama and the credit card nonsense.
"The only money I put down was a $500 loyalty credit from Infiniti"
Does that mean all other charges including tax was folded into your monthly payments? Then you wrote:
" I put the $595 bank fee, $45 documentation fee and 8.625% sales tax (suffolk county NY) in the payment." Do you mean in the monthly payments? Then you wrote:
"My payment was $539.39 including tax" do you mean monthly payment for 39 months? If so, how many miles, 10,000? Then you wrote:
"I only paid like $680 total out the door." But you had said it was $500 loyalty payment, so was it 500 or 680, or was it both added together?
It sounds like you are saying:
Virtually loaded G37xS sedan
39 months
10,000 miles?
Down payment total $500
Monthly payment $539.39
Please correct me if I am wrong.
If this is correct, then your total cost for leasing for 39 months is $21,536.21
I would be interested in hearing if anyone else leased the same spec and got a different total. Thanks.
This is something that bugs me as well with manufacturers. Maybe eight years ago, $2k for a nav system was fairly priced, but nowadays, when you see a "base" model already having a 7-inch LCD screen used for radio displays, offering a $2k GPS option, there's clearly a healthy profit margin in there.
That said, at least with the G37, you get not only a GPS, but a very good one by all accounts, including lane guidance and 3-d building graphics, XM traffic integration, a rearview camera monitor for backing up, voice recognition for common functions, and the 9GB "music box" for storing thousands of songs. So, yes, they're still making a profit on it, but I don't think the $2k price tag is so egregious for what you're getting.
When I said "the only money I put down was the $500 loyalty credit from Infiniti" that means I didn't pay any other down payments. So yes, all the other charges (except the DMV fees), the $595 bank fee, 8.625% sales tax and $45 doc fee were folded into my monthly payment. So my monthly payment was $539.39 for 39 months on a 10K miles per year lease. The April 2009 residual percentage on a 39 month 10K miles per year lease was 58%.
When I say I paid $680 out the door, that was my first payment of $539.39 plus the DMV fees. The $500 loyalty credit is worked into the lease calculation. They don't give you a $500 check for the loyalty credit to use as you wish. You must apply it to the new lease so they include the $500 loyalty credit in the lease calculation. So on paper it looks like I paid $1180 (first payment + DMV fees + an additional $500 down payment) but I only paid $680 out of my pocket because of the $500 loyalty credit. So like I said the $500 loyalty credit was used as a cap cost reduction.
Yes, you're correct, my total cost for leasing for 39 months is $21,536.21 if you count the $500 loyalty credit as part of the cost. I'm only paying $21,036.21 out my pocket.
It looks like people should probably get slightly better monthly payments for leases this month because the loyalty credit was increased to $1000. On a 39 month 10k miles per year lease, I believe the residuals dropped by 1% to 57% and the money factor is lower as well which offsets the lower residual so once you factor in the increase in loyalty credit, I think the monthly payment will be lower.
Why is almost every lease deal so different?
For several reasons. First the monthly payment in the lease depends on the MSRP of the car, negotiated price, money factor and residual percentage. When car dealers advertise leases, you always have to pay taxes and fees up front and some sort of down payment to bring the payment down to the nice round number they advertise. IMHO, that's how dealers take advantage of consumers. I always tell my friends, I can lease a $100K Mercedes for $300/month with a big enough down payment. The only way to figure out if you got a good deal or not is to get the negotiated price (i.e. cap cost) used in the lease calulation. If you read the edmunds.com leasing guide, it tells you to negotiate the selling price of the car (i.e. cap cost) because that's the only number you can change in the lease calulation. The MSRP, term (length of the lease), money factor and residual percentage are fixed numbers. Of course the money factor is determined by your credit score but you or the dealer can't do anything to change it.
Why are "special offers" (lease prices) on Infiniti dealer sites different than special offers on Infiniti's site? Why is there no standardization?
Again, this is based on how much of a discount each dealer is willing to give on a particular car. Many of these special offers apply to a specific car they have in stock or a car equipped a certain options. Also, individual dealers can make their own deals with banks to lease cars with different leasing terms from Infiniti Financial Services. If a dealer gets a bank to do the lease instead of Infiniti Financial Services, they can usually use the cash incentives that Infiniti was only offering on purchases such as the $2K marketing support cash to dealer on the G37 sedan/coupe right now. When you lease through a bank instead of IFS, the bank is buying the car and leasing it to you so any incentives that Infiniti is offering on purchases could be passed onto you by the dealer. Depending on the residual percentage and money factor offered by the bank, that could make it cheaper to lease through a bank but banks will be much more strict about the condition of the car at the end of the lease than IFS so you might have to pay for any minor scratches to the car that IFS would forgive.
Why does everyone always ask the same question: "is this a good deal?" Doesn't even one person unequivocally know what a good lease price is?
I think this is because people don't want to take the time to do the research and calculate the lease payment themselves. The real simple way to find out if you got a good deal or not is to know the selling price (i.e. cap cost) used in the lease calculation. You can't simply use monthly payment as a determination because obviously the more money you put down, the lower the monthly payment.
Does this confusion, or complexity, put the dealer at a great advantage? In other words, are dealers happy no one knows what a good lease deal is?
Yes, most people don't take the time to educate themselves or understand how lease calculations work so I think dealers are happy that people can't tell what a good lease deal is. Ads that say $299/month or $399/month to lease a certain vehicle sound good until you look at how much money you have to put down. Like I said, you can make your monthly payment as low as you want with enough of a down payment.
Isn't the total price you pay the dealer, down payment plus total monthly payments the only number that really matters? How does any other number or percentage or MF or residual or even total cost of the car help anyone understand anything if you have no intention of buying the car when the lease ends? Add your total down payment to 39 months of payments, that's it, it doesn't need to be more complicated than that, right? So why does it sound soooo complicated when you read this forum.
No, because your total cost will always be lower the more money you put down because you're financing less money in the lease so you're paying less interest over the term of the lease with a larger down payment. It all depends on how much money you want to put into the lease up front. The cheapest way to lease would be to pay all the money up front and not borrow anything but that's very risky and I'll explain why. When you're leasing, the leasing company owns the car, not you. So if the car it totalled or stolen, your insurance company pays off the amount owned on the car to the leasing company (i.e. IFS or bank), not you. If you pay the taxes up front, you don't get that money back either. That's why I pay as little money up front as possible including folding the taxes into the lease because I don't want to risk losing that money. Obviously I'll be paying more interest over the term of the lease which will make my total cost higher but I don't risk losing my money if my car is totalled or stolen. I can offset that by taking the money that I didn't put into the car and putting it in a CD or money money account or whatever and earn some interest income back. Plus I have access to my cash if I ever need it in an emergency.
Isn't it true that you can be quoted a low msrp and low invoice but still be snaked by a high lease payment? If so, then doesn't that mean the price of the car is often or sometimes used as a manipulation to get the down and the monthly higher? In other words, the quoted price almost doesn't matter and isn't the guiding force of your total lease payments, it's your total paid to the dealer that matters.
That's completely wrong. The money factor and residual percentage are set by the bank or leasing company based on the term (i.e. 24 or 36 or 39 or 48 months). Those are fixed. The MSRP of the car is also fixed because that is printed on the window sticker. The only number in the lease calculation that can change is the negotiated price (i.e. sale price/cap cost) of the car. Sometimes payments are higher because dealers add it high fees like $300 in documentation fees or other things like glass protection into the amount you're financing. Again, the total amount paid to the dealer will be lowest if you don't borrow anything because you'll be paying no interest so you can't use that to evaluate a lease deal. Then the best way to lease would be to pay everything up front. Again, that's putting your money at risk.
I like the 09 G37x coupe but for the life of me I can't figure out the lease price even after reading all these posts. I also don't understand why the Nav is so incredibly expensive, aren't great portable Nav's around $200? Sorry, I guess I have sticker shock on that one, someday soon though I bet car dealers will start offering Navs at half the price of what it is now, you know, as an incentive to buy their brand. I mean really, how can just a Nav cost nearly 20% of the entire 39 month lease cost?
20% of the entire 39 month lease cost for a nav option doesn't sound right. When you're leasing, you're essentially paying for the depreciation of the car. Let's say the residual percentage on your lease is 57%, then you'll be paying 43% of the cost of any options you add in the lease (assuming that you're getting the same percentage discount off MSRP on a car without navigation as a car with navigation). So you should be financing 43% of the $2150 navigation option in the lease which is about $925. That shouldn't add 20% to the cost of the lease. I'm simplifying things in the lease calculation but if you were to run the numbers for a car with and without navigation (assuming you get the same percentage discount off of MSRP), it shouldn't be that much money even with the extra interest that you'll be paying for the extra cost.
39 months
10,000 miles a year
msrp: $44,826
Inv: $41,160
price: $42,185 (price dealer offered)
Down: $2,900 includes DMV, doc fees, sales tax, bank fee, first month fee
Monthly: $566
total paid to dealer over life of lease: $24,974
This deal is almost exactly what Edmunds says it is, and what others are paying. I have not yet tried to negotiate, but when I do where and how do you think I can make some reductions in price? Thanks.
I would also ask to see the breakdown of the lease calculation from their system because your monthly payment seems a little high considering you're paying the taxes and bank fee up front. You should be able to plug the numbers in the edmunds.com lease calculator and come up with the same monthly payment. If you live in NY, the way tax is calculated on a lease is different from other states. NY state requires the taxes up front so the tax in the lease payment is calculated a little differently when you include the tax in the monthly payment so the edmunds.com lease payment calculator will come up with a slightly different monthly payment amount.
Thanks!
This forum never fails...
You can ask the dealer to show you the screen or a printout from the Infiniti system showing the lease calculation. If it's not obvious what each number represents, he should be able to explain each number on the printout. Again, the total lease price (as you called it) will fluctuate depending on how much you put down because the more you put down the less you're borrowing and therefore the less interest you'll pay. The only way to negotiate a lease is based on the selling price of the car (i.e. the capitalized cost of the car going into the lease calculation). You need to get that total lease price or total lease cost out of your head because that's not the way you should be evaluating your lease deal.
Think of it this way. Let's say you were going to buy a car for $40K. If you put down $10K and take out a $30K loan, you'll pay more interest than if you put down $15K and take out a $25K loan because the more you borrow, the more interest you'll pay. The same rule applies to leasing so obviously the total amount you spend on the car will be higher if you borrow more money.
The dealer should also disclose all the costs to you in detail and then you should be able to calculate the same lease payment as him. If you don't want to get ripped off you need to take the time and understand how leases are calculated.
Here's a link to Edmunds.com lease calculator.
http://www.edmunds.com/apps/calc/CalculatorController?pmtcalAction=lease_calc
I actually created my own lease calculator Excel spreadsheet and put it in my Blackberry so I could verify the monthly payment that each dealer was telling me based on the figures they told me were going into the lease calculation. You only need 7 figures to calculate a lease - MSPR of the car, negotiated price (i.e. cap cost), additional costs in the lease (i.e. fees, taxes, etc), down payment amount (i.e. cap cost reduction), term (length of the lease), money factor and residual percentage. You can only influence the negotiated price and you determine the down payment. The rest of those numbers cannot be changed.
You should read Edmunds.com articles on leasing at the following link.
http://www.edmunds.com/advice/leasing/articles/index.html
You should especially read this article on how to spot a good lease deal.
http://www.edmunds.com/advice/leasing/articles/102826/article.html
I know it's late in the month, but can you confirm the money factor and residuals for a G37 Sedan with 10,000 and 12,000 miles? Also, is there any difference in the lease terms between the two-wheel and all-wheel (x) models? I noticed that you stated that there's a difference between coupes and sedans, was wondering if the same applied to the base 2-wheel vs. 4-wheel drive models. Thanks!
Deal ? Where does one located a valid invoice price on the now year-old 08s? And can anyone refresh as to any dealer incentives on the 08s. Thanks in advance.
I'm in the same place as you. I was just quoted $37,770 for a G37x with:
Navigation
Premium
Wood
Splash guards
Trunk matts
cargo net
The price includes the $2000 incentive, but no taxes, tags, etc.
Edmunds shows the invoice on this at $38509 and TMV at $39,000.
What are you getting quoted?
Brew
You just need to tell them that if they don't give you all of the information you have asked for you are crossing them off your list. Also let them know you are ready to buy, not just window shopping. I wouldn't mention the test drive at this part, since that means a hesitancy to buy a G.
2005 G35 Sedan2007 G35 Sedan
2008 G37 Sedan
2010 G37 Coupe
2012 G37 Sedan
2014 Q50 RWD
2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
2018 QX60 RWD
Everything I read states that you should negotiate the price of the car, BEFORE negotiating the lease contract. I've been working on getting the best price on the car without any incentives since many of the incentives are contingent on using their financing or aren't eligible if you lease. I'm not even mentioning that I want to lease yet, just focusing on the best bottom line price. Is this the right approach? I'm fearful that once we agree on a price and I then tell them that I want to lease that they'll back out and want to renegotiate the sales price. I have all of the Infiniti leasing info for May, so I know what my monthly payment will be based on the price I'm negotiating. Any tips on this approach? Should I let them know ahead of time that I'm going to lease?
This is the sample email I have used in the past:
I am looking for a G35 Sedan with premium package. If you could please provide all of the following information it would be greatly appreciated. Please do not respond with a "give me a call so we can discuss this" email, nor an email with a monthly payment only.
MSRP
Selling price
Dealer doc fees
Dealer Add ons
Residual for 36 months/12,000 miles
Money factor for 36 months/12,000 miles
Registration/Plates
2005 G35 Sedan2007 G35 Sedan
2008 G37 Sedan
2010 G37 Coupe
2012 G37 Sedan
2014 Q50 RWD
2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
2018 QX60 RWD
I think it's just too confusing with all the variables involved in a lease; you may end up getting a great "deal" on the sales price, but they may then try to squeeze on the residual, the money factor, etc.
So, in the G's case, say that you're financing the car either through the current 0.9 APR or private financing. Ask them price the car as if you were going 0.9 APR and would take the $2000 CASH off if going private financing. Get preapproved from a local CU for a 36 and 60 month.
So...go online query armed with the those items and haggle for best pricing, and determine lease/finance/cash afterwards. Don't work backwards on the numbers....they are the professionals on the flip...you aren't.
Only after you are comfortable with the purchase price, go over the financing options. Ask about the leasing opportunities and costs. Key items MF (Money Factor) x24 = APR roughly. Last offer last month was .0022 for my G37 on 36month at 12k/yr. Assume 12k on the initial offer.
No Capital Cost Reduction! Don't do that. If they require a cap reduction, make them reduce the MF.
The last key thing is: Credit Score. This is all based on the premise that your credit score is >720 these days to get the best financing deals. If not...best to have the CU back you up in the first place and go Cash deal with long financing.
G37x, with Navigation, Premium, and wood
MSRP $41775
Sale price $38,950
36 month lease @12,000 miles/year
$1000 down
$522 a month
Anyone quoted a better offer?
Thanks,
Richard