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GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    In my opinion, 6000 lbs is the practical towing limit for a 1500 truck equipped with either 3.73 or 4.10 rear end gears. With 3.42 gears I would not exceed 5,000 lbs. With 3.23, 4000 lbs.
  • ltw12000ltw12000 Member Posts: 8
    Has anybody ever had their transmission rebuilt and then have the truck keep shifting out of overdrive and act sluggish?
  • sailboatguysailboatguy Member Posts: 13
    Your truck with the standard 3.42 gearing is rated for 7000lbs, with optional 3.73 gearing, 8000lbs.

    I've got the 3.73 and regularly tow 6000lbs without any problems. A little slow on the uphills, but it doesn't seem to be too much of a strain at all. The 5.3 is a great engine.

    Just be sure your trailer brakes are working. The real strain happens if you try stopping the 6000lbs without them.
  • fordgmcmanfordgmcman Member Posts: 7
    I just bought a 2006 Crew Cab 4x4 1500 with the 4.8 motor and the manual lists my truck w/the 3.42 gears as being able to tow 6,700lbs. U-haul installed a class 3 hitch capable of 6,000lbs. Oh well, my boat only 2100 lbs so I'm not too worried.
  • silver4803silver4803 Member Posts: 7
    If the tires have been changed or the axle ratio changed then the computer can be reprogrammed to correct for this. You need to know if the odometer is correct also when you go to get it reset.
  • silver4803silver4803 Member Posts: 7
    Sounds like it might be antilock brakes. It is located near that area.
  • silver4803silver4803 Member Posts: 7
    I can retune with my TunerCat programmer.
  • brp1brp1 Member Posts: 2
    my truck had the same problems it was the positive post had a loose inside the battery move the cable it would start. try another battery and clean the cables good at any rate i think your problem is in the battery or cables not getting good connection.
    I know you have already done this, but try it again might be suprized.

    bobby
  • wolfsroad68wolfsroad68 Member Posts: 2
    My 98 3500 Sierra has he same problem. Initally, it was a bad positive battery terminal, but I think after some time that also affected the positive cable.

    I replaced the battery, but the problem has persisted. I usually just have to adjust the cable a little and tighten it, then the truck starts ok for awhile. I will be replacing the cable when I have a little more time.

    Manny
  • kiernan_2001kiernan_2001 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2003 GMC sierra that I love. I has 47000 miles on it and just recently started with the steering rattle. I took it in to get it aligned and that seemed to have made it worse. I had a 2000 silverado that developed the same problem and I took it to the shop many times. "It is just the way the truck drives... they all do that."

    I have read all the strings on this board about replacing the intermediate steering shaft and would like to know if this still applies to 2003's. The only TSB that I have seen posted on this site is one from 2000. If I don't get this fixed, I may go crazy. Any info would be appreciated.
  • brp1brp1 Member Posts: 2
    had the problem with my cable, I just cleaned it real good and put a copper between the two cables with some good lub so it would stop getting corroded no problem in two years.

    now I have a new problem with my 96 Sierra, any ideas before I have it towed.

    the starter turns over fine, no run
    the fuel pump runs. getting fuel on the rail.
    pulled #1 done comp test 150lbs. put the plug on the #1 wire
    it's firing.
    put some gas in the intake still no run
    pulled the cap and rotor button looks good

    tell me something good thanks
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    The 2003's were to get an updated shaft. This never happened and the fix is listed as grease it and good to go for another 10k or so. I guess GM has other more pressing problems as this intermediate shaft issue started in '99 and continues today in '06. How's that for product consistency?

    I have a '02 Denali which had the problem. The fix? I lowered the front end 1" and no more slack in the steering shaft.
  • kiernan_2001kiernan_2001 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info. I saw a link on a website, maybe this one, to GMDIESELTECH.COM. He sells a grease kit for the shaft for $15. I think that I will give that a try before I go a lower my front end. Too much snow where I am from to do that. I will let you know how it works... Thanks again
  • vickery8vickery8 Member Posts: 3
    I just purchased a 2006 gmc sierra crew cab 2wd, and it has a terrible shake or bounce at 40mph and beyond. Smooths out slightly at higher speeds. Bought truck brand new and have already replaced tires with michelins as I always do. Has any else ran into this problem?
  • truck7truck7 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 crew as well that has had a long history of vibration. Mine started at 70 to 75 mph. My dealer has replaced tires, rear shocks, all brake drums, rotors, pads, and shoes. Nothing worked. Finally, I discovered that if I used the parking brake periodically, the vibration went away. Mine was in the rear brakes. There is a technical bulletin dated June 06 that has a replacement for the rear brake adjusters that fixes a problem with the rear brakes over tightening themselves. This causes them to rub ever so slightly and in my case caused the vibration. By using the parking brake, I was re adjusting them to the proper clearance. :)
  • scruff722scruff722 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 GMC Sierra *2WD, 5.3Liter V8. I want to change out all interior lighting from OEM to LED Lighting.

    The Map Lights are #578 Bulbs and I am haing problems finding a cross reference for this OEM Bulb Number as well as how to remove these bulbs from their housing. I can easily remove the Light's Clear Plastic Cover and from there I am stuck physically removing the bulb?

    Can anyone help me out???
  • chuck252chuck252 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 2500hd sierra with 6.0L. Recently the battery light is dimmly lit with the key out or with the key on. Also, while driving the light will go brite and "battery not charging" will come into the display and will only last 5 to 10 seconds at the most. The battery died a few weeks ago and it was replaced. Ihave replaced the alternator (twice). Once at the advice of GMC, he said one of the diodes were bad. The alternator is charging 14 volts all the time even when problem shows up. It seems to show up during accelerations and large gas pedal travel but I am still trying to confirm that.
    Anyone have any ideas?
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Where did you get the replacement alternator from? Was it a genuine GM alternator, or one of those Auto Zone of Advance Auto parts specials? If latter, that could be your problem. The alternator needs to put out correct number of amps at the correct voltage to function properly. Proper voltage alone does not guarantee a properly functioning alternator.
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