GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions

eric2001 · June 2001

What are those, Mother Nature's Speed-bumps? Do they end up repaving afterwards? Guess you really need 4WD down there, just to drive the roads...

-Eric

obyone · June 2001

ones that leads to a subdivision...or what's left of the subdivision doesn't get repaved.

kellsworth · June 2001

Hi all - new to the community and was wondering if anyone else was having this problem. My 2001 Sierra 1500 4x4 drifts to the right and has been ever since I picked it up from the dealer. I've had it in to the dealer twice now to correct the problem and it is fine for about a day then goes right back to drifting to the right. Anyone else experience this? Any ideas on how to fix the problem for longer than a day?

-Ken

obyone · June 2001

right pulling for a day? Have they tried rotating the tires?

I remember GM changing the powersteering unit to correct the pulling effect in some cases.

kellsworth · June 2001

Obyone - thanks for the reply. All the dealer did to rid the problem for the day was align the front end. They have not tried rotating the tires.

I'll ask about the power steering unit next time I take it in.

Thanks

-Ken

sonnyt1 · June 2001

I,ve got a 2k 1/2 ton sierra 4x4 3door and know of two other owners with same truck only chev with
same problem. The rear frame is broken approx. 11"
forward of rear shackle. I towed a four place snowmobile trailor (5000lb) with class 3 hitch it actually bent the frame down at this same weak point. The other trucks were used on a farm over rough roads approx 60% of every day. One of them
broke completly through on one side. All owners should check their frames. Has anybody else already experienced this problem?

tucsonjwt · June 2001

I have a smooth ride long bed regular cab Silverado and the velvets did help on the tar strips.
It could be about a $170 experiment if you want to try it. Also, I have Edelbrock IAS shocks, but I think they mostly improve handling/cornering, and don't improve the ride much. Others, like oby, report improved ride with the Edlebrocks. I think the Edelbrocks go for $225-$300, depending on where you buy them and the Edelbrock rebate.

frap1 · June 2001

I have a 2001 SEE 2500HD, very satisfied with truck except for a slight surge at low speed-light throttle. Any one else have this experience and what was done, I have not gone back to the dealer yet.

mugster · June 2001

This is for Stogey about post number 184. My 1999 Sierra is in the shop right now for the same type of noise. I described it as a loose shock. I already had the intermediate steering shaft replaced.

I did a ride with the mechanic and it is his opinion that it is coming from the rear of the truck and that the noise is transferring through the frame to the front end. I thought it was in the front end also. But it banged only when the rear end hit the bump. Not the front. If he finds the problem, I'll do a post

txyank1 · June 2001

thanks for the info.

vusic · June 2001

I have a 1996 GMC Sierra Reg. Cab. Is anyone out there familiar with water leaking into the cab via the rear sliding window? The symptom is water leaking onto the seatback. I confirmed at an auto glass shop that it was the seal around the window and not the high mount rear brake light.
He informed me that he has seen more than a few of these, but GM claims there is no widespread problem. The part is no longer available for repalcement (which is nearly impossible without bending the housing) and when it was available, it was $1600.00!!!!!!
Aftermarket prices are about $330.00 but are just as iffy from a quality standpoint.

2timer · June 2001

txyank1 I don't know which dealership you are using in Austin but I have that same noise along with a whole list of other problems on my 2k sierra and I have been to all the austin area dealerships. They all seem to be about as stupid as the other. I have had the shocks replaced 2x(even though I told them that wasnt it) the steering shaft has been replaced twice as well. The noise is still there even with the air and radio on I still hear it. after the last repair attempt on my truck the vibrations are worse but the service manager and his brother on the test drive swore up and down they didnt feel anything or hear anything. I wouldnt expect more after a year though

obyone · June 2001

Did they replace your oversensitive rack and pinion as of yet? Had mine replaced with a new updated one and my vibrations are gone....

If you need more info on this one...post and let me know.

2timer · June 2001

yeah the rack has been replaced but i would like to read that TSB if you dont mind posting it.

obyone · June 2001

Bulletin No.: 00-02-35-004

Date: June, 2000

TECHNICAL

Subject:
Steering or Front End Road Induced Vibration
(Install and Reinforce Revised Steering and Suspension Components)

Models:
1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C1500 Pickup Trucks (Silverado and Sierra)
Built Prior to the VINs

Important: Canadian dealers require PRIOR District Service Manager approval to apply this bulletin.

Condition
Some customers may comment on a steering wheel or front end vibration.

Cause
Several components in the front end steering and suspension work in unison to isolate the driver from road irregularities and from road/tire induced vibration. If any of these components are not working effectively, it will affect the other components of the suspension and steering system. Tire and road vibrations may be transmitted to the passenger compartment and steering through the rack and pinion unit. Additionally, the mounting points of the steering rack on the front frame crossmember may be amplifying any road vibrations.

Correction
In order to dampen unwanted vibration from the steering wheel, the following revisions must be preformed:

^ The tires must be in accordance with Corporate Bulletin Number 99-03-09-002 published August, 1999.
^ The steering rack must be replaced with a revised rack.
^ The left front steering rack mounting point must be reinforced.
^ The lower control arms must be replaced with units incorporating a revised bushing.
^ The power steering (PS) pump metering valve must be replaced with a revised fitting.

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Parts Information

Use the following procedure to replace the required components. Use the part numbers listed:

Notice: All components listed above must be replaced in order to correct the customer concern. Incremental replacements will adversely affect the handling and ride qualities of the vehicle. All components of the repair must be in place before the vehicle is returned to the customer.

1. Raise the vehicle. Refer to the General Information subsection of the Service Manual for information on lifting and jacking the vehicle.

2. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies.

3. Remove the front skid plate.

4. Remove the rear skid plate.

5. Remove the high and low pressure power steering lines from the rack and pinion unit.

6. Remove the steering intermediate shaft pinch bolt.

7. Remove the right and left outer tie rod end nuts.

8. Remove the tie rod ends nuts from the steering knuckles.

9. Remove the two nuts retaining the rack and pinion unit. Remove rack and pinion unit from the vehicle.

10. Remove and transfer the outer tie rod ends to the revised steering gear.

Tighten
Tighten the tie rod end jam nuts to 68 Nm (50 lb ft).

11. Remove the two long bolts that retain the rack using a pry bar to slightly move the position of the anti-sway bar. This will allow removal of the steering rack retaining bolts through the crossmember.

12. Remove the undercoating from around the left side rack and pinion mount with solvent.

13. Lightly grind the area around the left mount.

^ Extend the grinding area to at least a 101 mm (4 in) area around the left side rack mounting point.

^ Remove all underbody coating around the reinforcement plate in order to obtain the strongest weld possible. In addition, some area around the reinforcement must be cleared of undercoating in order to prevent the possibility of the coating "flashing".

Caution: The underbody coating on the frame will burn if exposed to the extreme heat of welding. The coating may ignite and/or flash suddenly. Avoid direct contact of the welding torch to the underbody coating. Always remove the coating so that sufficient area is free of coating for the welding operation to be preformed without risk of igniting the coating. Avoid inhalation of fumes from any over-heated or burning underbody coating

14. In order to obtain an effective weld for this repair, you must follow the welding pattern diagram. The most effective way of welding this reinforcement is to quickly tack the three sides of the reinforcement first. This method will keep all sides of the reinforcement in contact with the frame crossmember throughout the welding operation. If one whole side of the reinforcement is welded without first tacking the edges, the patch may warp. If the reinforcement plate warps, it will be difficult to obtain as accurate a weld. A warned reinforcement plate will also increase the size of the gap that must be sealed later in this procedure.

15. The finished weld must consist of four welded beads. Two beads along the side of the reinforcement (1) must be 80 mm (3.20 in). The bead along the lower edge (3) must be at least 90 mm (3.60 in). The final weld (2) should be a continuous bead around the center of the reinforcement to the mounting post on the crossmember. A correct weld bead should measure 120 mm (4.80 in) around the post. Let the weld area cool.

16. Coat the reinforcement plate and the bare portion of the frame crossmember with a self-etching primer. Allow the primer to flash off its solvent.

Important: It is essential that a primer coating and effective seal be created around the reinforcement. This creates a corrosion barrier for the mating surface of the plate and frame crossmember.

17. Apply a heavy-bodied seam sealer, such as 3M Ultrapro Autobody Sealant (P/N 08302) or equivalent, to all edges of the reinforcement. The P/N for the 3M Sealer is for a clear style. Any color is acceptable for this repair. Create a seal along the edges and around the center mount coming through the plate. A good seal will prevent moisture from accumulating between the frame crossmember and the back side of the welded reinforcement.

18. As soon as the sealer skins-over, you can apply an undercoating. Apply a spray-on black, rubberized undercoating to the reinforcement and the crossmember. Overlap the original coating in order to provide an effective corrosion protection.

19. Remove the high-pressure PS fluid line from the rear of the PS pump.

20. Remove the brass PS pump-metering valve.

21. Install the revised metering valve to the PS pump.

Tighten
Tighten the valve to 33 N.m (24 lb ft).

22. Install the PS fluid high-pressure line to the pump.

Tighten
Tighten the line fitting to 28 N.m (20 lb ft).

23. Remove the front upper shock mounts.

24. Remove the lower shock absorber nuts and bolts.

25. Remove the stabilizer link bolts.

26. Remove the right and left lower control arms.

27. Install the right and left revised lower control arms and nuts.

Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 145 N.m (107 lb ft).

28. Install the long steering rack attachment bolts through the crossmember. Reposition the stabilizer bar in order to allow insertion of the bolts.

29. Install the right and left stabilizer links and bolts.

obyone · June 2001

please be aware that the drawings/tables that come with the TSB cannot be posted.

Tighten
Tighten the stabilizer link nuts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).

30. Install the right and left lower shock absorber nuts and bolts.

Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 80 N.m (59 lb ft).

31. Install the right and left upper shock absorber nuts and bolts.

Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).

32. Install the revised steering rack to the vehicle.

Tighten
Tighten the steering rack attachment bolts to 185 Nm (135 lb ft).

33. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles.

Tighten
Tighten the tie rod end nuts to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).

34. Install the steering intermediate shaft pinch bolt.

Tighten
Tighten the pinch bolt to 47 N.m (35 lb ft).

35. Install the high and low pressure lines to the steering gear.

Tighten
Tighten the line fittings to 33 N.m (24 lb ft).

38. Install the tire and wheel assemblies to the vehicle.

37. Lower the vehicle.

38. Bleed the PS system. Refer to the Power Steering System subsection of the Service Manual for PS system bleeding procedures.

39. Align the front suspension. Refer to the Front Suspension subsection of the Service Manual for alignment specifications.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table

themailman1 · June 2001

I have a 2001 Sierra 4x4, 5.3,3.73, shortbed, sle. Can anyone tell me if you are suppose to hear any noise when you go into 4wd. I had a 1989 f-150, and there was alot of noise, but I have not used the 4wd yet in my new truck. I mean while you are driving along in 4wd.

2timer · June 2001

This info will help at my next arbitration hearing!

jackster58 · June 2001

I have recently acquired a 1999 Sierra SL 2500 with the Extended cab. This truck is a work truck and is not equiped with a lot of extras. I would like to know just what features that it does have. Is there any way to find out the original equipment by using the VIN? I would like to know if it is a HD model and if it has a locking differential. Also, I would like to know any thoughts on the 6.0L engine and 4sp auto transmission. Are there problems that I should know about with this combo? Any tips on keeping this thing on the road for a long, long time?
Thanks in advance...

obyone · June 2001

For any info from your VIN, go here:

http://www.oddball.co.jp/vin/vin.html

Options are detailed by RPO codes located in your glovebox and can be defined here:

http://www.geocities.com/crackeregg/CKtruck/1999/general/rpo1999ck.html

And if you look around on that site, you will also find TSB's for the truck.

tep · June 2001

Ten days ago I purchased beautiful new Polo Green 1500 SLT Z71, only my second "new" vehicle in over 20 years of driving. I tend to keep vehicles for at least 7 years and >100K miles, but I'm wondering if this one is going to make the distance.

The vehicle just turned over 1000 miles yesterday. Since soon after taking delivery of truck, I have noted an intermittent shudder at 1-2 shift, and a rarer "clunk" at 2-1 downshift. This got worse over last few days. I checked transmission fluid yesterday, and it was about 1/2 quart low. Topped it off, and it helped but the truck still doesn't shift as smoothly as my dad's 2000 Silverado. This morning I re-checked the ATF level and I noticed a distinct burnt smell. I didn't check the smell yesterday.

Additionally there have been a couple of minor electrical problems. Yesterday the clock advanced 5 hours by itself while parked. Last night the display on the rear view mirror alternated between normal and the "hieroglyphics" that you see when first turning on ignition.

The truck has been babied thus far. No towing, over-revving, etc.

I'm calling service dept. tomorrow. Any comments or suggestions appreciated.

Tom

2timer · June 2001

was yesterday. I am not sure how the arbitrator will decide this time but at some point they have to stop giving GM another chance to fix the truck. The rep from GM was there and he was being overly polite until the very end and then he just started acting like a horse's [non-permissible content removed], which I hope will help sway the arbitrator. At the very end the GM rep said that he was asking that gm be released of all responsibility and that he felt the truck was "commercially acceptable" HA!

xbbuster · June 2001

Four arbitration hearings and they just want to give GM another chance to tinker with your truck? Sounds like you have the same arbitrator that I had. Only thing different is after two hearings I rejected the decision and got in touch with a consumer lawyer. Three months later GM sent me a settlement check for $7000 and I get to keep the truck (It's For Sale) The cost to me was a hundred bucks for the lawyer. GM also had to pay him. They would have been better off buying the truck back months ago. During the entire BBB process I definitely got the feeling that it was me versus the BBB AND GM.

pojgmcscott · July 2001

a musty smell when the vents are on? 99 1500 5.3
A/C was on couple of days ago, heater was on this morning, after work turned on vents to cold
(not recirculating) and stink city. Not the same smell as shutting the truck off with the a/c on then starting it later. This smells like mold.

txyank1 · July 2001

I've noticed it too, (2001) but it doesn't seem to last long.

obyone · July 2001

1999 Chevy Truck C 1500 P/U 2WD V8-325 5.3L VIN T SFI

. . Air Conditioning Odor

.

Air Conditioning Odor

File In Section: 01 - HVAC

Bulletin No.: 99-01-39-004

Date: February, 1999

TECHNICAL

Subject:
Air Conditioning Odor (Install Kit)

Models:
1993-99 Passenger Cars (Except Geo)
1993-99 Light Duty Models (Except Tracker)

This bulletin is being revised to update the model year, service procedure and parts information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 53-12-12A (Section 01 - HVAC)

Condition

Some customers may comment on odors emitted from the air conditioning system, primarily at start-up in hot humid climates.

Cause

This odor may be the result of microbial growth on the evaporator core. When the blower motor fan is turned on, the microbial growth may release an unpleasant, musty odor into the passenger compartment.

Correction

To remove odors of this type, it is necessary to eliminate the microbial growth and prevent its reoccurrence. To accomplish this, the following two steps must be completed:

1. Apply evaporator core Cooling Coil Coating
(Aerosol 6 oz.), P/N 12377951
(AC Delco 15 - 102)

2. Install the Electronic Evaporator Dryer,
P/N 12346377 (AC Delco 12346378).

The Electronic Evaporator Dryer will activate when the ambient temperature near the module is above 60°F when the vehicle is started up. Approximately 30 minutes after the vehicle has been turned off, the blower will activate for 10 seconds every 10 minutes for 2 hours unless the vehicle is restarted. If a restart occurs, the Electronic Evaporator Dryer module will reset automatically. This on/off blower activation will dry the evaporator core and case reducing the chance of reoccurring A/C odor. The Electronic Evaporator Dryer is self fused and has a battery rundown protection feature that inactivates the dryer if voltage drops below 12.5 volts.

Service Procedure

1. Visually inspect the air conditioning evaporator drain hose for obstructions and/or working condition.

2. The cooling coil coating fluid must be applied before the evaporator. Apply coil coating fluid as described in the instructions supplied with the kit. In some instances, the blower motor resistor can be removed for this spraying operation. If used, the opening can be taped over and the nozzle inserted through a hole in the tape. The kit instructions identify a drilling procedure to apply the coating fluid. When using this type of procedure, care must be taken to avoid evaporator damage and any holes must be properly sealed. Some coating fluid may overflow from the drain hose.

3. Complete detailed installation instructions and wire connectors are supplied with the Electronic Evaporator Dryer. The ground wire should be attached to a body ground source. If any other wire splicing procedures are needed, follow the wire repair procedures in the applicable sub-section, Section 8A or Wiring Systems, of the appropriate Service Manual. If required, the evaporator dryer can be installed underhood away from extreme heat conditions (i.e. exhaust manifolds) and/or water splash areas.

4. When the installation procedure is complete, test the system by inserting a pen/pencil or similar type tool into the test button next to the LED light on the side of the module. If the LED light illuminates, then the system was properly installed. Install the Electronic Evaporator Dryer label on the blower motor case in a visible area.

Parts Information

Part Number Description

12377951 Cooling Coil Coating
(AC Delco 15 - 102) (Aerosol 6 oz.)

12346377 Electronic Evaporator Dryer
(AC Delco 12346378) Module Kit

Parts are currently available from GMSPO. Warranty Information

For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor
Operation Description Labor Time

Apply Cooling Coil
D3316 Coating/Install Electronic 0.8 hr
Evaporator Dryer

shiftless · July 2001

Has anyone done research on the best aftermarket replacement Rear Sliding Window for Pick-ups. I hate to replace the (3) section GM. It works very well but the plastic frame has started to leak

dgeddes · July 2001

If you look in the glove box, you will see the equipment listing for your particular truck. It is all listed as codes for example B71. You can tell what these codes are by going to edmunds new vehicle. Select the model, follow the screen inputs and select either appraise or customize this vehicle. A separate option box will appear and you can follow through it and find the options with the designated codes. It will show axle gearing, body style cc, and all options. Hope this helps.

themailman1 · July 2001

I have a 2001 Sierra 4x4, shortbed, 3.73 w/5.3. Problem, From a dead stop, when you hit the gas, there is a quick thump, like a tooth is missing from a gear. When in 4 wheel high[push button] is there supposed to be any noise coming fron the transfer case? Clicking noise when truck is first started? HELP

2timer · July 2001

Well I finally found out today (the people who work at the bbb are about as smart as a tack. they keep sending everything to my old address and old fax number even though I gave them my new info at least 6 times now)the decision from my arbitration, needless to say I was not very happy at all. The only thing typed in by the arbitrator was DENIAL then her signature at the bottom. So I guess I will be contacting a lawyer. The gm rep said my truck was commercially acceptable. I knew I was screwed when I saw how chummy the GM rep and the arbitrator were with each other. I wish I had walked out in the middle of it. I wish I had never traded in my 98 sierra....

pojgmcscott · July 2001

Thank you for the a/c odor TSB #. I checked out ALLDATA and must of passed it right up.

pojgmcscott · July 2001

Check out a company called C.J. Lawrence for your rear slider. After cracking 3 frames on my 99 I refused to accept this problem window. GMC and the dealership agreed on an aftermarket.
This slider is identical in style and tint but has a steel frame with rubber trim. I've only had this window 3 weeks but the dealer claimed it was the plastic frames that were at fault.

shiftless · July 2001

Thanks for the response. C R Laurence seems to be the best I have found here also. The truck is still under warrantee but I do not want to give them the option as to quality of the replacement window. My goal is to have a specific C R Laurence model number before I go to the dealer. So far this is what I have found in the C R Laurence (Perfect Fit Tri-Vent Slider) models for a 2K GMC Sierra:

Model: ECT899B (Clear Glass)
Model: ECT899LT (Light Tint) (55) Also known as DY90095PK5 to local dealers
Model: ECT899S (Solar Tint) (28) Also known as DY90096YK5 to local dealers

I have had reassuring conversations with the Tech. people in California but quality cannot be seen over the telephone.

I have yet to see any of the models listed above!

Please let me know what model you have and any details about it.

Ed

xbbuster · July 2001

In case you missed it, check post # 224.

gmcdude61 · July 2001

Bought a new GMC 2500HD 2WD. Got it home and noticed front driver's side drooping, had to crank in 4 complete turns on the driver's side torsion bar to level it out.
Is this normal for a torsion bar front end or is it something to be concerned about?
Thanks for any info...

pojgmcscott · July 2001

Sorry about the incorrect spelling. www.crlaurence.com will give you some idea what the window looks like. mine is the solar tint and matches the deep factory tint on the 1/4 windows perfect. I could not find any part numbers on the invoice or the window but I know where the truck was sent and I will make some calls..... stay tuned.

jdgoat · July 2001

Another question, has anyone had any problems with front tires cupping. My two front tires started cupping about 8K miles. Now, with 22K, they are completely shot. The dealer(and local Good year dealer) claim that it is because of no rotation. I feel that if I rotated them then all 4 would be shot by 30K. On my 95 I never rotated and went 60K without a single issue. I don't experience any pulling or vibration that the others on this board have experienced. Any ideas?

obyone · July 2001

You can look at your situation a couple of ways.

-You didn't rotate your tires, which the manual calls for. Therefore, the tires will be shot. What's also true is that all four would be shot at 30K.

-Rotate according to specs and take the credit for the unused portion of the warranty

-Replace the front two...so that for every two front changes, you replace the rears once.

-Goodyears, in my opinion, aren't that good a tire to begin with so 22k is ok without rotation and 30k is fine with. I never expect much from the stock tires on GM vehicles as they are price concious.

Btw, you failed to mention what brand of tires was on your '95

cowboyjohn1 · July 2001

Go to a front alignment shop - preferably one that makes alignments their entire business with a number of racks. Tell them to give you a complete alignment, which most of them would do anyway, and balance your tires. Sounds like you might have a camber problem, or out of balance, or both. Possibly your tires are so shot they will not balance up. Did you jack up your torsion bars without having it aligned afterwards? Good Luck!
cowboyjohn

valky · July 2001

Any front tire will cup if not rotated on a regular basis. The front tires are very susceptible to cupping, especially the outer edge, because of the forces put on them by turning. I personally rotate my tires every 4 to 5 thousand miles, and have had excellent results. My $.02.

Valky

pojgmcscott · July 2001

Model # ECT899S

shiftless · July 2001

Thanks for the Model Number. It confirms the information I have found. My concern was the laws on tint level. My finding so far only restrict the aftermarket films and not glass with the tint built-in. If you have any information on the subject, please let me know. I also want the Model ECT899S (Solar Tint).

Ed

pojgmcscott · July 2001

I wouldn't have given that tint level a 2nd thought, it's not limousine dark, just dark enough.
Here in Michigan only the side glass shouldn't be too dark.(actually not dark at all).
Think you could convince the dealer to get you one of those power sliders?

Good luck Ed

Scott

themailman1 · July 2001

I had put on a Lund Interceptor bug shield, and it came right off. It was a piece of junk. It went on in 5 minutes and it was so thin that when I touched it, you could see the whole shield vibrate. I returned it and got the EGR model. It was solid with no give at all. Maybe some of the complaints I read about; the noise and rubber gaskets; have something to do with the Lund products. I took the truck out for a 30 mile highway run, no noise and I put my hand out and felt the gasket, no problem. Next ????. From a dead stop, when I hit the gas, I get a split second clunk. It feels like a tooth is missing from a gear. It is very slight, but noticeable. Has anyone had this problem? I have a 2001 GMC sierra 4wd, 5.3, 3.73 and it is a short bed, Z71

ryanbab · July 2001

mines solid. Had it on for 17K miles now no problems

jdgoat · July 2001

Thanks for your responses. Obyone, the tires I had on my '95 were the original Uniroyals. But now that I read the responses it makes sense that my '95 was a 2 wheel drive and my '00 is a 4 wheel drive which would add to the stress on the front tires. Since I'll have to at least replace the front 2 tires(at a pretty steep price around here), I was thinking of replacing all four with another brand but moving up from the 245/75R16 to the 265/75R16 I've seen on other GMC's which fills the wheel wells better. Any disadvantages to this other than the speedometer being off a few mph?

budgerdude · July 2001

I have a strange thumping feel when I brake. Last year, had the same problem, replaced the rotors and it fixed the problem. Now, I've had them turned once and the problem is still there. Feels like either the rotors are warped again or the anti-lock system is engaging when it shouldn't. Any suggestions?

obyone · July 2001

Only disadvantge is that you will lose low end grunt and acceleration as larger tires changes your effective gear ratio. Other than the two you mentioned.

reichartj · July 2001

Does anyone know if 285/75R16's will fit on a 2000 Sierra EC SB 4x4 without any clearance problems. Also what width rim works best with this tire? Are the stock rims too narrow? I'm thinking of upgrading in the near future. Thanks .

obyone · July 2001

will fit on the truck.

GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

GMC Sierra: Problems &amp; Solutions

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions