GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions

obyone · July 2001

shackels

ricsch · August 2001

Would be nice to have grease zerks on the shackles and spring eyes to rid the squeaks.

tspruit · August 2001

This is a bit odd, but I just purchased a 2001 Sierra and upon driving home from the lot realized that the owners manual was missing. I called the dealer and they are sending me the manual but I'm concerned that they may just send me the manual without anything else that should be in the glove compartment. Could someone just tell me what they received upon purchase? Usually I think there is a fake key and other accessories. Thanks.

obyone · August 2001

is the notification of lemon law.

lariat1 · August 2001

When you leave the dealer you should have one copy of every paper that you signed or read along with the window sticker from the truck, all that should be in a folder then in the "book" there should be the owners manual, warranty info, tire info, service schedule, roadside assistance card, and more than likely several other little pamplets that pretty much take up space. And yes Oby the lemon law stuff is normally in there to, lets hope you dont need that though.

Have fun with your new truck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

volkej · August 2001

It sounds like you might have the piston problem that GM is now dealing with.
According to my dealer, oil is getting past the rings and causes carbon deposits on the pistons. You get the clattering sound when you do cold starts.
GM is supposedly working on a fix, but it's 4 to 6 months away. It will probably mean new pistons, but knowing GM they'll probably give you a lifetime supply of carbon removal treatments.

Jim

jlflemmons · August 2001

So I have been following all the fixes and adding a few of my own to the nerf bar creaking problem. Apply a fix, creak comes back after a couple of days. Finally got under the truck and really started checking things out. Well, the little brace at the rear of the bar on the passengers side was not formed quite right and when tightened down it put a side force on the rear bracket. After a few days this would cause the bolt to pull into the body mount and start creaking when putting the body/frame into a flex condition. So, I loosened everything, lined it back up and put a spacer between the small bracket and the large mounting bracket so that when the small bracket was tightened down it did not deflect the large bracket. Two weeks and no creaks. Sheesh, you think it wouldn't be that tough!!!

Jim

weanman · August 2001

Has anyone had their truck checked out for this ?
I did check and replace my rear drive shaft u-joints at 44k miles,which were bad it helped cut down the frequency of the light but still getting it .also it won't go into 4x4 high or low when this happens.but will go into auto 4x4.also it will clear itself if I shut the truck off then on.
thank's Dean

doneil · August 2001

Has anybody had problems with factory installed General Ameri-660 16" tires? At 15,000 miles, all four tires were showing small cracks between the treads on my 1999 Sierra. The tire dealer did not want to deal with it, so I took them to my GMC dealer. After contacting General Tires, the dealer replaced all four with identical replacements. Since that time, I heard a news report indicating that this tire was being recalled. Has anybody heard anything similar?

obyone · August 2001

I went through 4 sets of Generals within a 5 month period. Each time, General sent a new set to my dealer for replacement. After awhile I got tired of it so I traded for some Michelin LTX M/S 275/70R16 which is a slightly larger tire. My dealer gave me the wholesale price of the General tires as trade and charged me wholesale for the Michelins. Generals were $25 each and the Michelins came out to $95 each and the dealer picked up the tab on the mounting and balancing.

The General tires you have on your truck now are worth $25 new. Is that the kind of tire you want to be driving around on? Get rid of them.

ryanbab · August 2001

wonder how much the fstones are then $10?

modvptnl · August 2001

Discount Tire wouldn't give me ANYTHING for the steeltex(sp?) that were on some of the Super Duties. They did give me $65 a piece toward full retail on the Goodrich A/T KO tire for the Generals. That's why I INSISTED on the Generals when I left the dealer. My first stop from the dealer was to Discount Tire!!!

ryanbab · August 2001

I took got $0 for my fstone AT's

I had 10K on them when i switched to LT285 BFG All terrain TA ko's

Much better tire

I do have 1 fstone left in case i go back to 265's ill use it as a spare. Its sitting in my grandpas garage.

modvptnl · August 2001

the first stop is the tire store. I figure it will be the cheapest time to upgrade to a tire I really want anyway. On the '96 F150 the first stop was Dick Cepek. Had the built suspension, Weld wheels and A/T's before the truck had 30 miles on it!!!

obyone · August 2001

so what do you do if you get a flat? with the spare being at grandpa's and such

ryanbab · August 2001

My spare 265 is at my grandpas

I have a 285 under the truck (just put it back under there this past weekend)

obyone · August 2001

thought you were selling it? Tried ebay?

ryanbab · August 2001

that was a joke

I took a pic and said it was for sale but im gonna keep it just in case i go back to 265's or someone i know needs it (what are friends for hehe)

sujer · August 2001

any advice would be appreciated. I have a 2000 sierra 2wd with 17000 miles have general 660 tires which have been replaced by the dealer am still getting a vibration from the rear dealer said no problem with driveshaft or u-joints, what is my next step ?

obyone · August 2001

and not show it physically. Also the rear disk brake and pads. Or it may just be those lovely General tires. If your current dealer is in a state of denial, I would definitely go to the next one down the street. BTW, at what speed or condition does this vibration occur.

0patience · August 2001

These are some information on a couple things I read thru the posts and saw that may interst some of you.

--------------------------------------------------
Driveline Vibration/Growl Noise (Reprogram PCM) #99-07-30-024
Driveline Vibration/Growl Noise (Reprogram PCM)
2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Utility and Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra)

with 4.8 L or 5.3 L Engine (VINs V, T -- RPOs LR4, LM7)

and Hydra-Matic 4L60-E Transmission (RPO M30)

Condition
Some customers may comment about a driveline vibration/growl noise at speeds between 56-80 km/h (35-50 mph) with low engine speeds.

Cause
Engine torsional vibration when the torque converter clutch is engaged at low engine speeds, 1100-1400 RPM, can excite various driveline components. These driveline disturbances can cause noises and vibrations that the driver may feel and/or hear.

Correction
Reprogram the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with the calibrations listed in this bulletin.
-------------------------------------------------
Front Suspension Coil Spring Noise (Install New Coil Spring Insulators) #99-03-08-002A
Front Suspension Coil Spring Noise (Install New Coil Spring Insulator)
1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Models (Silverado and Sierra 2WD 1500 Series)

Condition
Some owners may comment about front suspension noise. The noise may be described as a "bong" or "clunk" noise. The noise may be more noticeable when driving slowly over bumps or backing the vehicle out of a driveway.

Cause
The front coil spring contacting the frame may cause this condition.
A new front coil spring insulator has been developed to correct this condition. Install a new insulator (1) to the top of both front coil springs.
-------------------------------------------------
Steering or Front End Road Induced Vibration (Install and Reinforce Revised Steering and Suspension Components)
1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C1500 Pickup Trucks (Silverado and Sierra)

Built Prior to the Following VINs
Plant
Body Series
VIN

Fort Wayne, IN
C15703
1GCEC14V7YZ243861

C15753
1GTEC19T8YZ244020

C15903
1GCEC14T4YZ245211

Pontiac, MI
C15903
1GCEC14V4YE279931

C15953
1GCEC19V1YE277451

Oshawa, ON
C15753
2GCEC19VXY1264957

Important
Canadian dealers require PRIOR District Service Manager approval to apply this bulletin.
Condition
Some customers may comment on a steering wheel or front end vibration.
Cause
Several components in the front end steering and suspension work in unison to isolate the driver from road irregularities and from road/tire induced vibration. If any of these components are not working effectively, it will affect the other components of the suspension and steering system. Tire and road vibrations may be transmitted to the passenger compartment and steering through the rack and pinion unit. Additionally, the mounting points of the steering rack on the front frame crossmember may be amplifying any road vibrations.
Correction
In order to dampen unwanted vibration from the steering wheel, the following revisions must be performed:

The tires must be in accordance with Corporate Bulletin Number 99-03-09-002 published August, 1999.
The steering rack must be replaced with a revised rack.
The left front steering rack mounting point must be reinforced.
The lower control arms must be replaced with units incorporating a revised bushing.
The power steering (PS) pump metering valve must be replaced with a revised fitting.

obyone · August 2001

replace the rack and pinion TSB. Can you imagine having to change your rack and pinion on a new truck. You would think it's grounds for buyback wouldn't ya. BTW, it's works 50% of the time or less as ths owners who have done it have pursued buyback as it didn't really solve the front end/steering vibration.

The first TSB to reprogram the PCM can be called the solution for the driveline growl. You can find the updated software solution by going to this site and entering your VIN.

http://calid.gm.com/vci/

BTW, the recalibration doesn't work either. All it does is force the truck to downshift faster when depressing the gas pedal. The truck will still lug and cause the driveline growl at 38-42 mph.

How do I know all of this......been there done that. And yes, you do need the GM district reps approval to change out the rack and pinion which BTW, is harder than pulling your own teeth.

jsmisek · August 2001

Hey guys, I finally had my wheels and tires performance balanced on a hunter machine. Two of the four rims and tires balanced out great. One of them balanced out so-so, and one of the rims and tires would not balance out at all. The dealer tried spinning the tire on the rim and other methods, but could not quite get a true balance. The tire store that sold the rims and tires to the dealer put the same defective rim and tire on his machine, and it showed that it was way off. The tire store wants to try a hubcentric adapter on the wheels I have to see if the vibrations go away. If this does not cure the problem, he is willing to let me select a new style of replacement rims. I told him I was tired of "jacking around" with this problem and would like to get different rims because I have a defective rim. Anyway, the adapters are on order and should be here on Thursday. I do not feel this will cure the problem, I still have one rim and tire that will not balance out! I will keep you informed on my progress.

sujer · August 2001

the vibration starts at 62 mph thru about 75 mph, also tires & rims were balanced on a hunter foced balancer

obyone · August 2001

i would look at getting rid of those tires. The sidewalls are totally flimsy as compared to other brands, not to mention the lightness in weight of the tire.

jdgoat · August 2001

After reading through all the posts it appears I have the infamous tapping problem with my 5.3. Any suggestions on what I should do next with my dealer who claims it's normal for the truck? I have 24,000 miles on the truck. Since there is no fix should I request a certain service or ask for a longer warranty? I'm in the dark on the next step to take, if there is a next step. Thanks for any help.

Jim

nerd · August 2001

My '00 Sierra has the same problem. The dealer said the sound is due to piston slap caused by a piston design flaw. He said that GM plans to provide new pistons beginning early next year and that the dealer will install them in the engine. (Ford provided new or remanufactured engines when they had the problem). I don't plan to accept this option since I don't believe a dealer has the tools and expertise to do the job well.

obyone · August 2001

from what I understand they won't be coming out with new pistons. Nor will they do anything about it, cause "all the trucks do it". So, jdgoat, do you have it documented as to what GM plans to or not to do about your problem? given them any opportunity to correct the problem? Cause, for one, you need to have it identified by the dealer and give them the opportunity to repair it. If the deny any problem exists, then proceed directly to BBB online and file a complaint against GM. You will get a phone call from a guy in Florida whose name I'll omit for now and he will tell you that under no circumstances would GM buy back the truck (it's what he's paid to do).

The BBB will contact you and ask if you would settle for anything less than and outright buyback. At that point, you may ask for the extended warranty as a negotiating point. GM will ususally agree at this point cause it really costs them nothing but paper to give it to you.

volkej · August 2001

obyone - The service advisor at the dealership where I had the problem diagnosed told me the likely fix was to change the pistons. It was written on the service order that the problem existed and that a change was in works - probably 4 to 6 months.
It may be a rumor, but some Chevy dealerships are acknowledging the problem in writing.

Jim

obyone · August 2001

I wonder how do you go about determining that it is the piston and what piston are they about to change to? Time will tell on this one. What do you feel about your dealer tearing your motor apart and replacing your pistons when simple things cannot be verified. Is this a can of worms, a nightmare waiting to happen?

gator36 · August 2001

Just back from the Dealer.

Talked with the service manager regarding the piston slap.
Apparently GM has 500 sets of pistons that are .00025 of an inch
larger than the originals in field tests around the country.
If there are no issues with these GM is planning to release
this as a fix in spring of 2002.

That is what I heard... Don't shoot the messenger.
Personally, GMPP and a little piston slap for me..
I don't want some tech learning on my engine..

This Service Manager was very knowledgeable.
He does know his sh** and is working on the A/C
issue I have seen in the 2001 Silverados.
(More on that later)

modvptnl · August 2001

......motors in my time. EVERY one of them I've bought the pistons first and had the block bored to fit the pistons. I can't see how GM can supply one size fits all piston on a motor that has been run for any significant amount of time.

TWENTY-FIVE ONE-HUNDRED Thousandths of an inch(.00025) is not going to do ANYTHING if the bore is .001 of an inch larger than when new. Most oversized pistons come in .020-.040" over. (big blocks I've seen up to .060 over)

jdgoat · August 2001

I definitely don't want them tearing into my engine to replace pistons. I could obviously live with the knocking on startup, but an extended warranty if future complications arise would be nice. However I may not have to pursue that avenue as driving home the other day my Service 4WD came back on again. Placing it in 4WD I noticed under no load(coasting) my brand new transfer case has started squeeling and growling. This is the 4th time in with my 4WD problem. Seems like the new transfer case they installed last time went bad(or the installation did). Thanks for the info. on going to the BBB. I think this may be my next route at least for my 4WD problem.

volkej · August 2001

I paid a lot of money for this truck and I'm not particularly happy that they are talking about rebuilding what is essentially a new motor.
I haven't decided on a course of action yet, but I don't think new pistons are the answer.
Off the top of my head I'm thinking new motor if I keep the truck, if not that then maybe it's time to visit a Toyota dealer.

gator36 · August 2001

Just thought I would put in my .02

I just traded in my 97 GMC Sierra.
It had 150,000 miles on the motor, all by me.
Motor work done during the life:
Oil Changes Regularly (A couple were overdue)
Plugs
Belt tensioner at 90,000 miles
Plug Wires
Intake gasket at 126,000 miles.
This motor had the piston slap from (at least when I paid attention)
about 20,000. Who knows it could have been longer.

All I know is, piston slap or not. The motor was
running like a raped ape at 150,000 miles.
I traded the truck in on a 2001 model and I love it.
During the life of that 97 Vortec motor. I never
saw any metal in the pan on oil changes.
At 150,000 miles it burned ZERO oil.

From several people who are in the business to know,
I have heard that the loose tolerance on the piston
skirt was designed into the engine. The purpose was to gain engine life and reliability.
As I understand it, GM is working on a "Quiet" fix
for the piston slap to pacify the owners who
cringe everytime they hear the noise.
Personally after 30 secs or less there is more
vibration and noise coming from the A/C compressor
than anything else in the engine bay.

As my previous truck would attest to. It was bult
well and will continue to for someone else.

Not to offend anyone, but, we are not driving a
Cadillac or Lexus here. It is a truck!

ryanbab · August 2001

i take your side

Thats exactly how i feel.

jlflemmons · August 2001

On startup, an Indy engine is loose as a goose. Noisy, blow by, the works. Same with a stockcar engine. Reason being that if you build it tight you will get even tighter as things heat up. I am happy with my 6.0L, it does rattle a little bit when first started, but uses no oil and runs like a spotted ape. If it gets bad before the warranty is out, I will go talk about an extended warranty. Otherwise, I'll just keep 'er greased, oiled, gassed, and running down the road.

Jim

obyone · August 2001

What is the difference between running like a raped ape vs. running like a spotted ape? I personally don't care for apes as they remind me of some off brand truck drivers...the ones that insist that their trucks are full sized. Or was that baboons that we were talking about?

modvptnl · August 2001

Well if you don't mind your motor running 500 miles between rebuilds, go ahead and build 'em that way. LOL!!

"From several people who are in the business to know,
I have heard that the loose tolerance on the piston
skirt was designed into the engine. The purpose was to gain engine life and reliability"

See, Ford had it right in the first place!!!! Youz guys bust me up!!!

C'mon guys, it's a problem. Why do some do it and some don't if it was "designed that way" ??? So the ones that are quiet are defective???

tucsonjwt · August 2001

engine that came out with the 1997 model Corvette? If so, why aren't the Corvette owner's experiencing the engine knock? Or maybe they are and I don't know about it. Inquiring minds want to know. ;o)

edetor · August 2001

I have a 00' 5.3 with the cold start knock. I've brought it in 3-4x for this problem. On one trip they used a solvent to clean the carbon off the pistons and it worked for approx. 2500k miles, then the knock came back. I left the truck for a week while on vacation, asked the dealer to check this problem , notify the zone rep and start a file on the problem. When I picked up the truck the dealer said they were ordering me a new engine and will call when it is in. I'll wait to see if they come through with this new engine and will ask for the ext warranty also. Dealer said 5% of the engines have this problem, a fix may be ready next year.

obyone · August 2001

why would they replace the motor if the fix isn't in yet? It's bound to happen again...and it ain't no 5% of the trucks that do it.

dhegarty · August 2001

I bought this truck about 3 months ago and last month it started skipping and shaking/vibrating when sitting still. The dealer said it was a computer problem(after keeping it 3 days) and then they changed an ignition coil(I think). Anyway it almost eleviated the shaking when stopped but now I noticed the whole truck kinda vibrates and bounces when driving down the road, or cruising at 75. Even on a smooth road it does it. Well my friendly! dealer told me that this is how a 3/4 ton truck drives. "It aint no Cadilac son, its a truck" I know this is not in my head and I know it didnt do this before they fixed the first problem. I took my 8-month pregnant wife on a long drive and she almost went into labor. After the first 20 mins. she begged me to turn around and get the '99 Suburban.
Please please HELP

ricsch · August 2001

Will the dealer or GM guarrantee that a new motor will be the answer? I talked to a service manager at a local dealer regarding the cold start knock, and they were told by GM to replace the engine in a couple trucks, and these "new" engines made more noise. My opinion, I'd wait until the so-called fix comes. Is the knocking noise just on start up, or does it continue when the engine is warm? This same service manager says that it was by design that the tolerances are at engine running temp, not for a "cold" engine, and that is why there may be some noise. You should hear our company van, a Chev. Venture-when the engine's cold, darn thing sounds like a sewing machine, once warm it's fine. I personally would go the route of an extended warranty,provided by GM for free of course, and if a fix does indeed come, then go that route if need be.

gator36 · August 2001

The key word in your statement was "based"
They wouldn't put the same motor in a truck.
There are differences between the motors.
But the same basic block and technologies that
allowed the LS1 to produce the power are
incorporated into the current vortec motor.

gator36 · August 2001

Why do some of these motors do it and some don't?

Pretty simple. It is a matter of awareness I think.
Some people are clueless and don't care. They never
even hear a noise until someone points it out.

Does this mean the motors are bad?
I don't think so, see my post #336.
I traded my old truck in for the 4wd I wanted and
never bought in 1997. I had 4wd envy until this last month. Otherwise my 1997 (with the piston slap) would still taking me to work and back,
towing my boat and hauling dirt as needed.

tucsonjwt · August 2001

the engines. If it's the pistons, are they made of the same material in the Corvette engine pistons? Of course, maybe the exhaust noise from the Corvette drowns out any engine knock. Or maybe the Corvette engine is not so leaned out as the truck engines and gets enough gas so they don't knock. Until these engines actually blow with some regualrity I don't think GM will be willing to repair/replace them. Many of these trucks must be up to or over 100K miles since the 1999 model introduction, especially trucks used commercially. Those trucks should have blown their engines by now if there was a serious defect. We will know in about another 7 years whether or not this defect affects engine reliability, once there are a lot of trucks in the 100-150K mile range. GM will also put 100K + on an engine in testing a new design. I wonder if they knew about this problem when the engine was developed? Maybe the engineers just didn't want to admit their mistakes.

gator36 · August 2001

been around since the early Vortec motors©
GM has been dealing with the piston slap
complaints for several years now©
I don't disagree on the material issue©
I believe it is more a designed fit issue©
If the engineers specify a larger tolerance
in the piston to cylinder wall clearance,
you will get piston slap until the piston has
had a chance to heat up and thermally expand©

Without looking at any internal specs for these
motors, I cannot tell you for sure© But based
on the application of the motor, I bet there are
differences in either piston material or
clearance or both©

I have heard that the additional clearance was
"engineered" in for CAFE reasons as well as
durability© It would stand to reason that
if you tighten up the tolerance, you would lose
a percentage of your gas mileage©

jdgoat · August 2001

if we're talking tolerances being built into the engine why would it take 20K - 25K miles for the knock to show up on my truck?

It seems, from the conversation, it's pretty obvious GM is aware of this problem. Since I will be presenting this problem to my dealer(who never wants to acknowledge any problems) should I have them contact anybody from GM, like a zone office, to make the dealer aware the problem exists and find out any current action to take? I don't want them tampering with the engine or putting a new engine in, just to at least document the problem is there.

ricsch · August 2001

to have them contact a GM rep, but do yourself a favor and call the customer service 800 number in your owner's manual and if possible talk to a cus. serv. manager, and tell them about your problem and have them create a file. It is also in your favor to call back now and then, since if you don't, they'll assume you aren't overly concerned about the problem. To really grab their attention, file with the BBB, and see how soon GM calls you.

GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions

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GMC Sierra: Problems &amp; Solutions

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GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions