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Mazda6 Lease Questions



  • ral2167ral2167 ohioPosts: 767
    What if the car behind you (say, a camry) doesn't have MRRC and FOW? :)
  • gambrillgambrill Posts: 10
    June GT Residual & MF @ 12k Miles Please

    Thanks in advance.
  • reydreyd Posts: 2
    Carman -

    I'm in MN - looking for July MF and residuals.

    I'm considering either the Touring w/ tech package or GT model. 12K miles per year.

    Thanks much.
  • fenderman2fenderman2 Posts: 11
    Can you please provide the lease numbers for a 2014 Mazda 6 GT, 36 months, both 12 and 15k.
    Thank you
  • joshcsjoshcs Posts: 8
    I am looking into leasing a 2014 Mazda6 Grand Touring. I have $2000 to put down if needed. I want to know what residuals would be for 24 mo's with 20k miles per year. I live in AL if that helps any. Also, will Mazda do a lease for less than 24 months? Thanks in advance!
  • jlhoustonjlhouston Posts: 10

    I'm looking to lease a Mazda 6 GT on tuesday. Can you send em the Mazda Finance lease figures. The MSRP on the car I like is $30,290 what is a fair price?

    My goal is to zero down and pay as close to $300 as possible. The Residual they offered is 60% for 36 months with 12k miles per year.


  • luke111luke111 Posts: 5
    Just came from the dealership and bought my Mazda, I think it is a pretty good deal, Car Man care to comment?
    Cap cost (including fees) $28,800 (remember white is $200 more expensive)
    Money Factor for July is Pennsylvania is 0.00023
    Zero down payment
    $355 per month including taxes (it is 9% for me)
    Due at signing: $220 (registration)..1st payment is waived
    I'm getting the remote starter installed $470 (paying it cash upfront)
    This car doesn't include the MRCC FOW package
    Ah! I didn't qualify for owner loyalty, military or any other discounts
  • jlhoustonjlhouston Posts: 10
    I was just at Jeff Haas Mazda in Houston. They quoted me a sale price for the 6 GT without the MRCC FOW of $28,900 with a "ANNUAL LEASE RATE" is 2.47 - not sure what this means its not the money factor or the APR which is money factor x 2400.

    There was $2,600 in Leasing fees - which I can deal with later and get them down. But their estimate at $0 down was a payment of $430 which seems ridiculous given that's more than what I would pay for a C250 with $0 down

    Car_Man can you help me out with the residual and MF for Texas on the Mazda 6 GT at 36 months with 12k miles per yr

    Thank you,

  • jlhoustonjlhouston Posts: 10
    Sorry for the repeated posts but just came back from another dealer and they are offering the following:

    Monthly payment - $395
    MF -.00053
    Residual - 60%
    Walk away just first month payment of $395

    Car_Man - can you send me the figures for this month and also comment on what the cap cost they are using breaks down to? I can't understand how they are trying to get this car sold at such a high payment. Now I understand why they don't move anywhere near the volume Honda and Toyota move even though its a better car in my opinion.

    Thank you,

  • ajpbf7ajpbf7 Posts: 81
    Hello Car Man,

    Could you please post the MF and Residual for a 2014 Mazda 6 Touring and Sport with an auto transmission. I am looking at 36 months with 10k or 12k per yr. Any lease cash or support on this vehicle yet? I am in KY. Thank you.
  • fsubrettfsubrett Posts: 5
    I've been speaking with the Internet manager of a dealership in south Florida and I believe I am being offered a really good deal.

    2014 Mazda 6 gt
    12 k miles/year
    42 month lease
    $299 a month (before 6% taxes)
    $700 down (includes ttl and first month)
    Gap insurance included
    Car is under warranty for 6 years or 60k miles

    Is there anything I am missing or that I need clarification on regarding this proposal? Thanks in advance.
  • gee22gee22 Posts: 82
    Really can't tell you how good a deal it is without the capitalized cost components, the residual and money factor.
    I took my April lease, kept the money factor, lowered the residual by 2% (I know that the residual is the same for 36 or 39 months but don't know about 42 months), changed the paid at signing to $700 and changed the term to 42 months and came up with the same $299 before taxes and I have the GT with MRCC/FOW package so if Im guessing the dealer is making about the same on both of us plus/minus a few hundred.
    Post the actual pieces and you can get some opinions.
    What I do find crazy is that it appears the dealer is paying for an extended warranty to 60 months when you are only leasing the car for 42 months. I know it's unlikely you will need to use the warranty between 36 and 42 months but if the warrantly appears legit (take a look at it closely) it's a pretty smart way to go since you'll still be enjoying the car after 36 months at a lower rate.
  • relius1relius1 Posts: 1
    Can you share the dealer and program deats when you are done? I'm in Orlando and this program pricing sounds perfect to me!!!
  • fsubrettfsubrett Posts: 5
    The residual is 57% and money factor is .00044.
    The true car price he quoted was $28,623.
  • gee22gee22 Posts: 82
    Mine was $250 more below invoice than yours and included window etching already on the car but your dealer needs to purchase an extended warranty for your deal so I can't tell which dealer makes more but the fact you get the benefit of the 42 month lease makes yours an excellent deal. You'll love the car, but you if you do highway driving, you will love it even more with the radar cruise control.
  • fsubrettfsubrett Posts: 5
    Thank you so much for your input. I just hope that the dealer actually sticks to the proposed plan and doesn't try to pull one over on me when I get there.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    A reporter is looking for new car lessees. If you leased a new car in the past few months, and would like to share your story, please email your daytime contact information to [email protected]
  • Based on what i read in this forum, i didn't get that much of a deal tonight.

    I just wanted a quote on the very basic Mazda 6 i-sport.

    After the test drive and talking with the guy i asked for a quote on a 3 yr / 12000 miles lease.

    He came back with the following numbers

    Capitalized cost: $25400
    Residual: $13275
    MF: 0.00069
    Down payment: $0
    Monthly: $388 including taxes

    Immediately i thought the Capitalized cost was way wrong. Turns out these guys had a $895 dealer fee. They also used the MSRP in the calculation.

    I started talking about negotiating the price and that $22000 was pretty much the fair price for this and that the dealer fees were way high. The MF appears to be high but that may be because i am in a different state from the 0.00045 i saw earlier.

    I said i wanted to negotiate the price and get much closer to the invoice price and maybe waive some of their fees. My goal is to get a lease at or around $300 tax in. I got quoted an Accord LX at $320 tax in and i had not even started to negotiate. Now, some might argue that the Mazda 6 is a better car than the Accord. As a matter of fact the salesman was talking about engine compression and stuff. I don't really care about that. Bottom line is Horsepower is the same, the gadgets are the same (CTV transmission, backup camera, bluetooth) and the MPG is the same. Those are the thing i am looking for.. not the engine compression or what the 0-60 time is.

    He went to see the finance guy and he came back with him. Finance guy said he could do no better than $340 a month and that getting lower is impossible without a down payment. He stated that the i-Sport is fairly new and there aren't enough sold yet to get any wiggle room to negotiate. He says Mazda is pushing for the Touring and is not providing enough i-Sport so the financing market for it is still unknown.

    It's a shame because i really liked my test drive experience but $388... or even $344 is over my budget. I could do $310 or $315 but my goal is to be as close (or under) $300 as possible.

    What do you guys think?
  • I definitely think you can get a much better deal. I ended up getting the grand touring with the $900 cruise control package and I only pay $310 a month ($330 after taxes). I put down $700 and that included first month, new license plate and their dealer fees. What state are you in?

    On a side note, definitely go with the Mazda 6 over the accord. I am so happy with my purchase. It's just such a sexy looking car and drives extremely well.
  • I have no doubt it's an excellent car. Like i said, i really liked my test drive. But ultimately it's a budget question. I need a car to go to work and back... About 20 miles a day. So the driving experience, which i am sure may be better in the Mazda, isn't something that is critical to me. I am looking at horsepower, MPG, standard equipement and yes, Price... which i can only afford around $300/month tax in.

    I am pretty certain that this dealer won't go under $340. I may have to try another dealer but there aren't any Mazda in my area and had to drive about 45 mins to get to this one. Not sure i want to do that again and get stuck with the same kind of deal
  • I'd recommend just reaching out to the Internet manager of dealerships in your surrounding area. Don't waste your gas and time driving to the dealerships. I basically worked out my deal via text and email. The first time I spoke to the dealership I got the car he worked up a deal for $1000 down and $360 a month before taxes. Another tip I found during my car hunt was the better dealership to go to is the one that is a volume seller and not a commission seller.
    As far as mpg, I am getting 29 mpg on my first tank. I drive 18 miles to and from work 5 days a week. The one thing I loved about the accord when I test drove it was the passenger side mirror camera showing 3 car lengths behind you when you turned on the right hand turn signal.
  • gee22gee22 Posts: 82
    fubrett and I both got the GT with MRCC Package so we have all the bells and whistles, most of which are not available on the Accord. That’s the primary reason why I love the car so much. And, of course, I love the styling.
    In terms of pricing, I got mine at the largest volume dealer in the US and fsubrett, correct me if I’m wrong, you have a 42 month lease which lowers your monthly payment significantly vs a 36 month lease so you can’t use it as a comparison.
    The nationally advertised lease deal at the mazdausa website has a 39 month lease for $269/month with zero due at signing so you would have only 38 payments (though I’m not crazy going past the warranty period). It includes the lease inception fee of $595 (that’s probably the $895 marked up fee by your dealer). You would need to add the dealers doc fee and your title/registration. Where I live, that would add $700 to the cap cost so the payment would be $290 plus tax. Keep in mind, nationally advertised leases usually have a nice profit in them for the dealer so you should be able to do better.
    As I mentioned earlier, I love my bells, whistles and styling. There is a ton of available technology on the Touring and even more on the GT but if I had to consider only the base model, I would have seriously considered the Accord LX. As a matter of fact, since I have been forgetting to turn on my headlights for over 40 years, I would have definitely gone with the Accord since the base has auto on/off and you need the Technology Package on Touring model to get that.
    People go to Mazda because they usually have the sportiest rides in their segments. If that isn’t your thing, the Accord may work best for you, both in terms of the car itself and your local pricing. (Check out the Prices Paid board for the Accord first). . It has aced all the IIHS and NHTSA crash tests. The Mazda has done well on the IIHS tests but yet to be tested by the NHTSA.
    And don’t get too excited about the passenger side camera that fsubrett mentioned. It is not on the base model
  • Yes, i know the side camera thing is in the EX. But the LX has enough bells and whisltes as it is such as dual zone air conditioning.

    It's also a shame that the dealer i went to, did not have a CTV automatic in stock. Only had the stick shift which doesn't have the LCD screen with the bluetooth and all. So i didn't get to see that.

    I'm sure the Touring and Grand Touring have awesome features but they would certainly be priced out of my range. I agree that the LX has more bang for the bucks from the Mazda 6 i-Sport from what i could see and read.

    Thanks for the info. I'll now give the Accord a test drive
  • Hi CarMan,

    Could you please find out the money factor and residuals for a base 2014 Mazda6 i Grand Touring and the i Touring with automatic transmission for 36mo/15k miles per year in the Philadelphia, PA region. Thanks!
  • Hi CarMan,

    Thanks for the service you provide! I would like to obtain the current money factor and residual for a 2014 Mazda6 GT AT. The term would be 36 months @ 15,000 mi/yr. I am in Central Florida.

  • I am looking to either buy or lease a new Mazda 6 GT but I have never leased a vehicle before and am just learning the pros and cons of leasing. Has anyone already gone through the lease of this vehicle in the Southern California area? I would love to know what figures you used for lease financing, what annual mileage your got and if that can be negotiated, whether all Mazda dealers have the same lease options, what residual value you were given and anything else you feel is important in making a decision whether to buy or lease. If I do buy I would be financing the majority of the purchase price. I believe Mazda has great promotions on right now for both buying/financing and leasing so hard to determine which is the best option. I have a credit score over 700 if that makes a difference. Thanks for your time.
  • CarMan,

    I also would like the lease numbers on a 2014 Mazda6 Grand Touring (with Tech Pkg) for 36 months and 36K miles.

    I am looking to lease this month because my current lease is up soon. Thank you!
  • gee22gee22 Posts: 82
    Just a few things to consider if you are leasing.
    In a lease, you lose everything you pay at signing so I recommend you put all fees into the lease.
    The residual is based on the lease term and miles per year and is not negotiable. Higher the residual, the lower the payment. Less miles per year will give you a higher residual and lower payment.
    Payment is based on a formula using the residual, money factor and capitalized cost( the largest component of your capitalized cost is the selling price of the car). You need to find out the money factor for your credit level and the residual percentage, calculate your target capitalized cost that includes selling price/doc fees/lease inception fee/DMV fees, etc and then come up with the payment. You will negotiate from there. Don’t just ask dealers for their monthly payment quote. One dealer might be significantly lower than others but if you do the math, you could discover he is charging you MSRP for the car.
  • Car_Man has not posted in this forum since June 18 so it's apparent that he's not available or Edmunds isn't providing Hosts that give this info any more.

    Does anyone else have a rough estimate on what the August MF and Residual value is for a 2014 Mazda 6 Grand Touring for 36 months with 12,000 miles per year? (New England market if that matters)

    I have also e-mailed some dealers and I am waiting for a response, but I'd like to compare to an unbiased source.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 94,526
    .00023 and 60%, for MA, NY, NJ and CT...

    It's only a 1% residual deduction for 15K/yr... (59%)

    Dealers are allowed to mark up the money factor a maximum of .00050



    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

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