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GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • evergreenevergreen Member Posts: 213
    I will look into that but it sounds like too much of a clank to be the springs.
  • mr_mbunamr_mbuna Member Posts: 13
    We bought an '03 Sierra 1500 SLE Ext Cab Short Bed 2WD 5.3L pickup today and need to know ASAP of any common problems inherent in the design of the Sierra that we should get addressed. We already have read about and discussed the common rusting of the backside of the front bumper and the dealer has promised to paint the backside of the bumper and also provide a lifetime rust warrantee of the bumper. What else should we have our eye on? What very common problems are happening?

    Thanks!
    Ben
  • slayrdaveslayrdave Member Posts: 3
    Anyone have this problem? I've got a 03 Sierra SLE Extcab,4x4 5.3L- 1500 miles. Trans started shifting hard between 2nd and 3rd.Downshits are worse.I've never had it in tow mode ,and only engaged 4x4 during my demo test drive.5 days ago I noticed oil directly under the oilpan- oilfilter area.Returned truck to the dealer and was informed that the REAR MAIN SEAL was leaking and that my hard shifts were included in a GM SB on a faulty transmission solenoid.I don't understand how a $34k truck with only 1500 miles can already be junk.I'm sorry I traded my Nissan!
  • gvoigtgvoigt Member Posts: 63
    Took my '00 to a dealer to day to have them check out the Service 4WD message. They hooked it up to the computer and it said error noted in the transfer case switch panel on the dash. 15 minute fix, new switch! They also replaced a burned out daytime driving light which had just burned out a couple days previous, I had replacement bulb in my pocket to change out once I got home. Everything was covered under warranty even the complimentary hand wash. Am I satisfied, YES! The spare bulbs are in the glovebox for next time.
  • dmaddz71dmaddz71 Member Posts: 14
    I had the same warning come up on my message center. And it was just the switch on the panel as well. My latest problem has been the Locking Rear Differential in the 10-bolt rear end w/ 3.73 gears. It used to lock up perfectly every time when one tire lost grip the other one immediately kicked in and started pulling. Now it starts off posi but quickly fades out and rarely (never) stays locked. How do go about fixing these things. Is an entire replacement necessary for a fix as I am sure it is broken. Any feedback would be grately appreciated.
  • woolybackwoolyback Member Posts: 45
    I have a 2001 GMC Sierra 2500 HD 8.1 L with the Allison Trans.
    I just got back from an extensive trip to Canada pulling my 5th wheel. Just about every hill I climbed caused the cooling fan to come on. My temp. guage didn't budge off 190 degrees the whole time. There didn't seem to be any reason for it to come on as my partner who has the same truck and pulling a larger trailer didn't have any problem with his coming on. His temp. stayed about the same as mine.
    I know that the fan somehow works like a viscous clutch and I've heard that they are not really accurate. Does anyone know just what temp. the fan should come on. It doesn't seem to ever want to shut off once it has been activated. Took it to the dealer and tried to get some help there from
     the service dept. but all he could say was that it was doing what it is supposed to do. He couldn't even tell me how it worked but said it should come on between 180-210 degrees.
    Sure could use some help here with this.
  • slayrdaveslayrdave Member Posts: 3
    Picked my GMC up on 7/16 after replacement of the Rear Main Seal.This repair was completed earlier than expected. Transmission problem was listed as NPF......ok.
    After almost 300 miles,today I noticed fresh oil on the driveway again.Could this be a new leak ??
    I now have 1800 miles on my new truck and more oil on my driveway.Is this Professional Grade ??
  • bonreabonrea Member Posts: 48
    Have a 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT Z71 5.3L w/AT and towing package GVW 6400lbs. I purchased it used in July w/30000 miles and have experienced a problem with the steering pulling to the left. Not hard but enough to be annoying, the dealer I purchased it from claims they did an alignment on it the day before I was to pick it up but it still does it. I am taking it back to them tomorrow. I’ll keep you posted. I want to keep everyone posted because further back into this discussion, dated two years ago, I noted someone saying that GM has had to replace the power steering pump to solve a pull to the right. May be tough to convince them this may be the problem. I keep the tires [Fstone] inflated properly but still have the pull.

    I also have the hard shifting problem [noticed it when test driving it} from 1st to 2nd gear. It is only getting worse. If anyone has found a solution to this problem PLEASE let me know because the BtoB warranty runs out Jan. 1 of 2004.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Have the tires rotated and see if the problem changes. It is not uncommon at all for tires to develop "pulls" as they age. My 2500 has 21K miles and can almost tell you what each tire will do at each position. Doesn't even mean there is something wrong with the tires, though you will want to watch for any odd lumps appearing.

    Jim
  • bonreabonrea Member Posts: 48
    Thanks for the input. Tire pressure was the first thing I checked but didn’t move the tires around yet.

    The update is that the dealer determined that the tire is the problem with the left pull. So they have ordered (under warranty) a new one and will call when it is in. I’ll let you know how that goes. The hard shift for the transmission was solved via a computer update. It DID solve the problem. It did it hot or cold so now I need to test it and see how long the fix lasts. Nice and smooth now.

    On another note; I have the Z71 w/towing package. What size trailer in tonnage is to much for this truck. The wife wants me to get us a camper but am a little dumb on just how to figure the GVW and stuff like that. I pull a small U-Haul box trailer once in a while but she is talking about a BIG boy now.

    Any feedback would be welcomed.
  • themailman1themailman1 Member Posts: 95
    I have an 01 Sierra and the inside of both bumpers are rusty. Is GMC replacing them???
  • gvoigtgvoigt Member Posts: 63
    Last week my passenger door suddenly wouldn't open. The electric door lock cycled but didn't unlock the door. Even using a key on the outside wouldn't unlock the door. Took it to the dealership, they had to disassemble the door from the inside of the cab as much as they could and manipulate the lock/latch from inside with a long screwdriver to get the door to open. It seems the latch is a sealed unit and they ended up replacing it. Since the lock wasn't a stocked item they kept the truck overnight, I had the pleasure of driving a Buick Century for a day...definitely made me appreciate my truck.
  • bonreabonrea Member Posts: 48
    The dealer called me two weeks ago to schedule another appointment to put the tire that they ordered on the truck. They ordered the wrong tire. So they said that they had a tech that said a simple adjustment should fix the left pull problem. They also rotated the tires to see what effect that would have. Now it pulls worse to the left. I am waiting for the replacement tire to be put on and then I will start with the manager.
  • bonreabonrea Member Posts: 48
    Well they didn't put on any tires. They worked with the alignment for about 7 hours, drive it, tweaked, drive it, tweaked and drive. The alignment is correct now but I am worried that when I have another alignment problem they or anyone else that I have work on this thing will have to go through the same crap to get it right.
  • themailman1themailman1 Member Posts: 95
    I have a 2001 Sierra and the front and rear [inside] bumpers are rusted, and all 4 rotors with20,000 miles on them had to be turned because they were rusted. Do you think that GMC will make good for these defects?
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Bonrea, Your GVW is posted on the driver side door pillar. It tells you what you can haul, I believe you said 6400 lbs. So get a trailer that has a GVW of no more than say 5400 pounds loaded. This allows you 1000 lbs. on your vehicles limit to add a full load of fuel, camping gear, firewood & passengers. Adjust accordingly of course.
    A lot of people fail to heed this GVW and end up overloading their vehicles or getting trailers to heavy when loaded for particular vehicles requirements.
    As an example, I have a 2000 3/4 ton Silverado Ex. Cab 2wd/auto/3:73 rear. My max GVW is 7200 lbs. My trailer comes out to 6000 loaded leaving me 1200 lb buffer for fuel, passengers/equipment.
    Hope this helped.

    Mailman: Dealer should cover everything if your still under warranty, if the bumper rust is on backside forget it, if coming thru on chrome surface it's a warranty issue on the "rust protection" end of warranty, 5yrs. I believe. Rotors are not normally replaced under warranty unless they exceed the limits for turning down. Did you have them turned simply because they had rust on them ?? If truck sits for a while that is natural and won't hurt a thing.

    Ray T.
  • themailman1themailman1 Member Posts: 95
    They said the rust on the rotors was causing the soft pedal and they had all 4 turned. I am not happy with that because when I do need them turned again, they will say, they are too thin and have to be replaced. The rust on the bumpers are on the inside.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    They turned mine also @ 8k, when I had a pulsating feel coming thru brake pedal, rotors were warped but not enough to replace them under warranty. Dealer says GM standard procedure is to turn them first if reoccurance then replace. More GM BS as usual, anything to save a buck for the CEO's bonus check ! Inside rust on bumpers is nothing to worry about or you can spray it with "Extend" rust inhibitor, it freezes the rust in place then turns it black.

    Ray T.
  • superq1957superq1957 Member Posts: 5
    I have read some of the discussion related to rough idle, but they have problems with acceleration as well. The only problem I'm have is that it idles rough for a minute or two then it fine again. It's real noticeable when you're stopped at a traffic light. Gas mileage is excellent as well. Is this a common problem with the 99 Sierra and is there a TSB? By the way my truck has a 105,000 miles on it and runs fine. Any help will do.
  • bonreabonrea Member Posts: 48
    Thanks for the info. Now I can shop for a trailer and know what to look for.

    Can you help me figure out what the tonage capacity is for the bed. You mentioned that yours is a 3/4 ton. How does one figure this out?

    Thanks for your help...
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    I see in your profile you have a 1/2 ton pickup. Stats from GM website on 03 Silverado standard cab 1/2 ton show GVWR of 6100 lbs. Cargo capacity is 2123 lbs. that means passengers/fuel and payload combined. Does the door tag list UVW rating (unlaiden vehicle weight) By calculations 6100 gvw minus 2123 cargo capacity puts your trucks unlaiden weight at 3977 lbs.

    Clear as mud now ???

    Ray T.
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    I'm going to have to put in my .02 cents worth on this one. The 6400 GVWR on the door has nothing to do with trailer capacity. This pertains to the truck itself. If you're going to put a camper on the truck, this will be of great interest to you. There is also an axle limitation for front and rear. As for trailer towing limitations, it is all dependent on truck type, engine size, and transmission type. With my 1500 with 5.3 and auto, I can tow up to 8200 lbs. I also have the tow package, so I have the extras to go that high. Those without the tow package should consider auxiliary oil and transmission coolers. The trailer towing capacity should be available at the dealer. Otherwise, I'm sure someone on this site will have the info or a link to it.
  • jtt3jtt3 Member Posts: 20
    Lets use the 6400 GVWR for example

      This is rating for truck only but hitch weight has to be added also

        Truck empty is 5000 plus 2 people 300 plus a tank of gas 200 plus trailer hitch weight 700 lbs

        eguals 6200 lbs which is OK 200 lbs to spare

       Now I beleive this truck has a GCWR (Gross combination weight rating of 13000 lbs.

        take the 6400 lbs and subtract the hitch weight and this becomes 5700 lbs

        Now take 13000 lbs and subtract the 5700

    gives you a trailer weight of 7300 lbs you can pull
  • bonreabonrea Member Posts: 48
    WOW! Thanks for the info guys... Didn't mean to start such a big discussion thread on this topic but it looks like we can all benefit from this information.
  • bonreabonrea Member Posts: 48
    If anyone has any questions about the weight of a gallon of gasoline, I found this on the web and thought I would share...

    "When I worked in an automotive engine test lab -dynamometer tests - we often had to calculate the brake specific fuel consumption (BSFC) of the test engines. We had a chart for fuel density vs temperature for our fuels that was updated monthly. As I recall, the typical weight of gasoline at 72 degrees F was around 6.25# per gallon. As it became cooler it became more dense and thus weighed more and above this temperature it was less dense and a gallon weighed less.
  • bonreabonrea Member Posts: 48
    2001 GMC Sierra with the 5.3L... What the heck kind of oil is in this thing. I have people telling me that one can't put just any kind of 5w30 or 10w30, it has to be something from the dealer.

    Any suggestions... and yes I have RTM.
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    on the oil cap it should say 5W-30,any name brand oil will be ok.
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
  • superq1957superq1957 Member Posts: 5
    I have read some of the discussion related to rough idle, but they have problems with acceleration as well. The only problem I'm have is that it idles rough for a minute or two then it fine again. It's real noticeable when you're stopped at a traffic light. Gas mileage is excellent as well. I took it to the Dealer and they informed me that I need a throttle body and injector cleaning. This was done and now the rough seems to be worst & noticable. Is this a common problem with the 99 Sierra and is there a TSB? By the way my truck has a 105,000 miles on it and runs fine.
  • stvokcstvokc Member Posts: 32
    Long or hard starting problems. Chugs/rough idle until you first give it the gas then idles ok. This happens most of the time but not always. I have 2000, 5.3, 50,000 miles now. Seems to be getting worst with time. Is this injector clogging problems, fuel pressure regulator problem or fuel pump problem? Any ideas?

    Engine seems to rattle/ping under light acceleration or constant highway speed with normal engine warmed.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Bonrea, sorry I was mislead and gave you some incorrect info. Based on Erik/Jtt3 explanations I am now redirected in trailer towing capabilities. To think I could have bought that camper with the slide out but was told otherwise based on my trucks capabilities, well live and learn!
    Erik & Jtt3. thanks for the education!

    Ray T.
  • cbktwocbktwo Member Posts: 2
    Purchased my 2002 Sierra Ext. Cab last summer and have had numerous problems and they do not seem to be stopping. I have had the trans out a few times to correct hesitation problems which turned out to be a bad valve body and valve problems. I have had two instrument clusters and a fuel sending unit to correct bad fuel level readings. Numerous fixes for door and window noises.

    My doors still seem to be out of wack along with my tailgate that seems to be rubbing on the bed. The latest has been the steering shake and rattle which has been repaired and still is not right. The dealer repacked the steering shaft and then replaced the steering shaft. The dealer told me it was just the nature of the vehicle, well it was not the nature of the vehicle when I drove it off of the lot and for the first 18,000 miles.

    Has anyone had any similiar steering wheel shake problems?
  • jaguar0027jaguar0027 Member Posts: 387
    Yes and a lot of the Sierra's and Silverado's do it. I got rid of my shaker last year and bought an F-150 Supercrew. Have not looked back yet...

    I will say that due to your list of problems, have you thought about going lemon law or buy back?
  • cbktwocbktwo Member Posts: 2
    I think about the Lemon Law ever day. I have had enough problems to qualify but not within the time frame allowed of one year 18,000 miles. I have almost 25k and it has been about 18 months. I have contacted legal counsel for this matter which I hope will have a good outcome.

    I have driven mainly Fords with virtually no problems at all. I originally wanted the F150 Supercrew as well,but the rebates and discounts on the Sierra were worth it at the time. It still is a sharp looking truck but I bought it to drive not just look pretty.
  • jaguar0027jaguar0027 Member Posts: 387
    I hear you man. That is terrible that you are out of the lemon law period. You know its really a shame that the GM trucks have these problems for years on end, and still do not fix them. I used to be a GM guy (still love the old chevy cars), as is my ENTIRE family. However, I have been turned off ever since the 99 re-design of these trucks. I will take an old Silverado any day over one of these new ones.

    If legal counsel is not able to help, what do you think about selling it outright and or trading it in? I know you will take a hit, however you have to weigh the decision of taking the hit, vs your time, money, and lack of having the truck etc e.g. (in the shop all the time). The real answer you must ask yourself is what will give you POM.
  • bonreabonrea Member Posts: 48
    Has anyone had a problem with the lumbar support device in the power seats? The one in my 2001 Sierra seems to stick out to far even if I run it all the way in. My back starts to hurt after driving a while. Is there a any way to adjust them other than the controls on the side?
  • bonreabonrea Member Posts: 48
    I am beginning to feel your pain. I purchased my 2001 Sierra Z71 used in July this year and have steering problems (or was it deal tech problems) along with other stupid little things that are just annoying and I am beginning to wonder if I have made a mistake.
    This is truly the first time I have purchased a GM product that I am having second thoughts about. Every other GM vehicle I have owned didn't make its presence known. I just got in, cranked it up and drove as needed and everything worked as designed and was comfortable and I didn't have to ask why in the &*@%$@^ did they designed it like this or that. I am debating selling outright and get a different brand for the first time in my 20 some-odd year of driving.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    You may be out of the "lemon law" coverage area but your state attorney general's office can still intercede for you if the dealer is not resolving repeated issues. Your truck is still under factory warranty and they have the obligation to make it right. File a complaint with AG's office and watch the dealership twitch !
    Been there done that !

    Ray T.
  • jhuejhue Member Posts: 5
    Sounds like the fuel pressure regulator. My wife's Sierra had the exact same symptoms. A hole in a diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator allows pressure in the fuel lines to drop far enough to allow the fuel to flash vaporize if it's hot enough. The symptoms are just like vapor lock. The hotter the weather, and the longer the truck sat, the harder it was to start. Sometimes it would even die when stopped at a red light, but driving at speed was no problem.

    This problem is usually worse in the summer, and goes away in the winter because the fuel lines don't get hot enough sitting with the engine off to flash vaporize when the pressure drops.
  • 2timer2timer Member Posts: 27
    i have had my 2003 since april and just yesterday I had my first problem with the truck (other than the annoying wind noise/air leak on the passenger side area) I was on my lunch break sitting in my truck listening to the radio and there was no display on the radio at all even thought the radio was working. I turned the radio off and back on still no display. So i turned the ignition to off and removed the key waited a few seconds and started up the engine and now I have no driver information display and the radio still has no display. I went back to work to finish the day and when I started her up to go home everything is working normally and hasnt happened since. any ideas?
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Welcome to the wonderful world of GM Quality. The intermittent problems are the worst because if the dealer can't duplicate it they can't and won't fix it. Log the complaint with dealer so you have a record of the event at least. Maybe it will show up again when you have it there.
    My 2 cents worth

    Ray T.
  • 2timer2timer Member Posts: 27
    yeah careful not to get em wet or they will multiply. sigh, I know all too much about the intermittant dealer cant find or fix excuse. Its why I traded in my 2000 for the oh3. At least I can say that so farI am much much happier with this truck. Now if I could just keep all the tree sap off the paint :)
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    That's easy, cut down the tree, no more sap ! LOL
  • mjhightowermjhightower Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 2003 GMC 1500 4.8 AUTOMATIC WITH ONLY 3800 MILES ON IT. LATELY I'VE NOTICED A PROBLEM WITH MY TRANSMISSION SLIPPING WHEN GOING FROM FIRST TO SECOND GEAR. IT HAS DONE IT ABOUT FIVE TIMES. HAS ANYONE ELSE SEEN THIS PROBLEM BEFORE SO I CAN TELL THE DEALER EXACTLY WHAT TO LOOK AT???
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    More than likely there is a tech bulletin out on this problem and dealer already knows what to do but you have to complain about it first before dealer takes action.

    Ray T
  • bigfurbigfur Member Posts: 649
    there is...was mentioned many times a few monthes ago. Most dealers know about it by now.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    of 2 Transmission clanking by 1usa Nov 29, 2003 (12:23 am)
    i own a 2003 Seirra Z71 4x4 5.3L Trans clanks loud when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd -3rd to 2nd sometimes harshly. usually happens when coasting around a corner or going up a hill at low speed then speeding up. Ive been to the dealer twice for this problem. They told me it is normal for a 4x4 because it has to have play in the driveshaft. Does anyone have this problem. Thanks
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    A/T - 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Explanation

    File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle

    Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-042A

    Date: December, 2002

    INFORMATION

    Subject:
    Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise

    Models:
    2003 and Prior Light Duty Trucks
    with 4L60E or 4L65E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32)

    This bulletin is being revised to add the 2003 model year as well as information about 3-2 downshift Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-042 (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).

    Some vehicles may exhibit a clunk noise that can be heard on a 2-3 upshift or a 3-2 downshift.

    During a 2-3 upshift, the 2-4 band is released and the 3-4 clutch is applied. The timing of this shift can cause a momentary torque reversal of the output shaft that results in a clunk noise. This same torque reversal can also occur on a 3-2 downshift when the 3-4 clutch is released and the 2-4 band applied. This condition may be worse on a 4-wheel drive vehicle due to the additional tolerances in the transfer case.

    This is a normal condition. No repairs should be attempted.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    "This is a normal condition. No repairs should be attempted."

    I bet one of them thar magnets could fix it ! bwahahahahaha

    Sorry couldn't resist !
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    This may also help. The hard part may be getting the truck to hiccup on cue.

    File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle

    Bulletin No.: 02-07-30-030

    Date: August, 2002

    TECHNICAL

    Subject:
    Transmission 1-2 Shift Shudder, Vibration, Slips, Chuggle
    (Install Generator Voltage Sense Circuit)

    Models:
    2001-2003 Chevrolet Silverado
    2001-2003 GMC Sierra with 4L60-E Automatic Transmission (RPO M30)

    Condition

    Some customers may comment that the transmission slips, a shudder, chuggle, or vibration is felt when the transmission shifts from first to second gear.

    Cause

    A 12 Hz electrical feedback from the charging circuit may be affecting the transmission pressure control solenoid, causing a fluctuation of the line pressure within the transmission.

    Diagnostic Tip

    Road test the vehicle under the following conditions:

    ^ Throttle position is less than 15 percent. Engine coolant and transmission fluid are at full operating temperature.
     
    ^ The outside ambient temperature is warmer than 24°C (75°F).
     

    If the condition is present, disconnect the generator 4 cavity connector (2 wires in the connector) and retest. If the condition is no longer present, perform the correction listed below.

    If the condition remains unchanged, the condition will not be corrected with this procedure. Look for other causes of the condition.

    Correction

    Install an external sense lead to the generator assembly.

    This is accomplished by adding a wire from the generator four wire connector to the generator output BAT terminal.

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery/batteries.
     
    2. Slide the protective boot on the generator BAT terminal aside and remove the retainer and wire cable from the BAT terminal.
     
    3. Unplug the generator 4-cavity terminal from the top of the generator.
     
    4. Remove and save the orange weatherpack seal and CPA from the 4-way connector.
     
    5. Using the proper terminal removal tool, remove the two wires from the 4-way connector.
     
    6. Install a red cavity plug, P/N 12059168, into cavity "A" of the new 4-way connector, P/N 12186568.
     
    7. Install the brown (Circuit 25) wire of the vehicle wiring harness into cavity "B" of the new 4-way connector.
     
    8. Install the gray (Circuit 23) wire of the vehicle wiring harness into cavity "C" of the new 4-way connector.
     
    9. Obtain a piece of 0.80 mm/18GA black wire, 254 mm (8 in) long.
     
    10. Install a red terminal seal, P/N 12048086, and terminal, P/N 12048074, (crimp and solder) on one end of the new black wire.
     
    11. Install the new black wire into cavity "D" of the new 4-way connector.
     
    12. Reinstall the connector seal and CPA, from the original connector, to the new connector.
     
    13. Plug the 4-way connector into the generator.
     
    14. Route the black wire to the generator BAT terminal, sliding the wire into the small end to the output terminal boot, along side the generator output wire.
     
    15. Crimp and solder the ring terminal, P/N 02977821, on the open end of the new black wire.
     
    16. Place the generator output wire and the new black wire onto the generator BAT terminal and install the retainer.

    Tighten

    Tighten to the BAT terminal retainer to 9 N.m (80 lb in).
     
    17. Connect the negative battery cable.

    Tighten

    Tighten the battery cable retainer to 17 N.m (13 lb ft).
     

     
      

    Parts Information

    Parts are expected to be available 8-15-2002 from GMSPO.

    -David
This discussion has been closed.