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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions
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Some late model Expeditions/F series have had problems with moisture penetration at the rear of the hood. water entry through the hood seal corrodes the back coils and plugs. Maybe mention that to the tech.
when I took mine in for the same reason they kept the car for 2 days and only turned the rotors plus charged me $64 for an oil change. Then they have the balls to advise me to come in for another oil change in 3,000 miles.
it's as if they are a necessary evil
can't do warranty work without them
can't get anything done efficiently with them
keith
Keith
Just turned 88,000 miles.
I put on new brake pads and shocks at 86,000... Keep the oil changed and keep on driving. Like anything mechanical, it could blow up on the way home... but for 5.5 years and 88,000 miles, it's been really good.
I've been getting about 18 to 20mpg empty for most of the life of the pickup.
with that said, this is a pretty important piece in the Ford Motor survival and profitability. Without truck sales I think Ford and GM are both big money losers.
light and bells go on and off at random times and the horn is burned out due to it just kept on blowing (while at the dealer to fix it)
even the door locks keep going from lock to unlock all till i remove the battries ie no juice.
now it is a no start.
Has anybody ever been stuck in Drive before? I have the shift on the column, Crew Cab, 4WD XLT with the 3.73 limited-slip diffy.
Pretty dissappointing for a 6 week old truck with 3,000 highway miles. I tend to want to say that I'm glad I'm not alone, but that's not true. I wouldn't wish this on my worst enemy.
Any idea what can be causing this? Thanks in advance.
-JD
Oh before you FORD guys get on my case I currently own 3 fords and two [non-permissible content removed] cars. Getting ready to be a new Titan in the driveway though.
Keith :lemon:
Quite possible it's transmission 'wind up'. In 4wd the wheels need to be able to slip as necessary to 'unwind' the tension that builds up between the front and rear axles. If you have a manual t/case try putting it in neutral (it may need some force), then try to put the transmission in neutral, which will let you start up.
If not, let the warranty take care of it!
This morning - he had the bad vibration - so he pulled over and smelled hot brakes. He thinks one of the back calipers is sticking. Anyone else had this problem? (I've seen a lot of "replaced rotors" on this forum and wonder if there is a problem.
Just a few questions, Mine is a 4 X 4 Lariat supercab, 18 inch wheels, 3.73 Ratio, 5.4, 7000 miles. In the past month, I've experienced intermittent vibration, usually starting when I first get up to 30 or 35 MPH which is about a mile from home. The vibration is total truck, the steering wheel shakes, but not like a front tire out of balance. The mirrors shake, you can feel it in the seat, floor,everything, and quite severe and at all speeds from 30 MPH to 70 MPH, although the frequency changes with speed. Once, I shifted to neutral and shut the engine off at 50 MPH, and it made no difference to the vibration. Usually it has been after the truck has been sitting for a while, and seems to gradually get better, and after a stop disappears. Yesterday was a different mode, we drove to town for church about 5 miles just fine, then left to drive to a neighboring town for lunch, and after about 4 or 5 miles on the road, it started vibrating. After a mile or two, I stopped, checked lug nuts, which were OK. After I got back on the road, it was OK, and we completed the trip and got back home without vibration (about 30 Miles).
Sorry for the length of this message, but I'm curious if this is the typical mode, or does it get worse in time, and does anyone have suggestions for me, since it appears I'll have trouble duplicating the problem for dealer service.
Thanks in advance for responses.
Tom D
Now for my question..............what do I do next?
Well, I will post the decision in 10-14 days. Godspeed!
keith
Your pickup 4WD has a locked center differential, and 4WD should only be used in slippery conditions as the locked center diff will not allow the front axle to turn at a different speed than the rear, which is necessary when turning. The rear tires run on a tighter radius than the fronts.
Situation normal, but I know the first time it happened to me I was a little concerned also. Just switch the 4WD off when in conditions where traction is excellent. It will save tire wear, and improve gas mileage.
Tom
Have you checked into other actions. I don't expect to keep having my truck towed.
I have been stranded 3 times.
I bought new so I would not have these problems. My truck was purchased feb 26 I have less than 700 miles. Maybe we can compare where they were made and see if this issue can be traced back to a certain area.
I have just taken it into the ford dealership and they are saying there is nothing wrong with the truck.
Once I was across the street from them and they said I had to get it towed to them. Its ticking me off, because when I call they act as if I am not pressing the break. The third time was just this weekend 25 miles from home. I asked the ford mechanic how to activate the override that is mentioned in the book. He never even heard of it. So I read it to him and he said he didn't know...and they would look at it when it got there. Because they mention the override in the book I bet they knew it would be a problem.
It was towed on a saturday evening. They of course are not working until monday morning. Last sunday when it locked up, a guy at my church was getting into his ford 150 truck so I asked him if knew what it could be. He called a friend who worked there and suggested it could be a fuse if it wasn't for the fact that it would eventually allow me move it from park. What he also observed was that the steering wheel is not locking in place when the engine is off. Have you found any other posts like this?
Thanks
My local mechanic says it will cost about $2000!!!!! says the engine must be pulled? is this true or is something else being pulled?
Thanks
K
This vibration problem is a serious and elusive one. It is serious because if unchecked, the "natural frequency" of the front-end could be reached; if this occurred, the extreme energy could break-up the engine and threaten human life.
Have 2001 f150 5.4 w/68000 miles. Recently, after freeway driving and less than 1/4 tank, it will either not start, or start and idle at 300RPM. When I put gas to it, it stalls. If I let it sit awhile, it startrs and runs OK. Thought it might be the pump relay, but that wasn't it. Anyone seen anything like this?