2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

tgonzo · May 2005

I have a 99 Ford F-150 XL and I cannot find the jack!
I've looked under the hood, inside the truck, under the truck where the spair tire goes, in the extended cab area and I can't find it.
Help! :confuse:

gmac2 · May 2005

Had the same problem. Fix it with some good door lube (spray) into lock opening areas on the side of the door. A little electronic switch gets stuck. There is one on all four doors just below the latching mechanism. Worked for me. I slammed the doors for two weeks before some good guy fixed it for me. Good luck

tallyho · May 2005

Went out to get in my truck this morning after driving it yesterday and it will not start. Cranks but won't turn over. Is there some diesel mystery that I should know about? Any help will be greatly appreciated. :mad:

KCRam · May 2005

If you've been experiencing slow/difficult starting for the last few days/weeks, then your batteries are shot. This is always a sign for me - hard starting = fresh 12-volts. It's most important with a diesel because it needs all that juice to get started, but very little to actually stay running.

kcram - Pickups Host

tallyho · May 2005

This was a sudden problem. No dificulty starting before yesterday and it certainly sounds like the battery is okay. Not your typical clicking sound of a dead battery.

volks · May 2005

I wanted to update since my last trip to the Ford hospital.The truck went into "hyper-shake" again , I called and made a service appointment with my dealer. At my request they kept the truck for several days , put over a hundred miles on it , and it indeed went into "hyper-shake" on them. Here is what they have done to correct the problem: Adjusted the driveline inclination angle , changed clock posistion on the driveshaft and reprogrammed the trans pcm. The tech told me he got the " shakes" between 48-52 mph , exactly when I have experienced the problem , and he felt trans shudder was the main problem. Since picking up my truck , It is much smoother at all speeds and I have not had even a hint of vibration at 48-52 mph. Hopefully this will take care of it / time will tell. just wanted to post my findings to everyone with similiar problems !

micomark · May 2005

To all those having problems with 2004 or 2005 F-150 vibrations and drive-train problems. Here what I am experiencing and I have hired an attorney to process a "lemon law" case in Ohio in forcing Ford to take this POS Ford back. I have had the rear axle assembly replaced with less than 1000 miles on the vehicle and three tires replaced "Goodrich Rugged Trail". I still am having the following problems. Simply stated. This vehicle appears to have serious engineering problems. I think they may have lightened the cab up so much that every vibration the vehicle generates from either, engine, driveshaft, differential, etc is resonating up throught the cab. Thus, no fix. Truly a lemon. See your attorney looks like the only relief fromt his lousy vehicle. It makes me sick I traded in a real nice performing 2002 F150 for this thing. That was a good truck.
1.. Vehicle continues to generate excessive drive train delay-slip-slap-crunch (for lack of an encompassing term) at various times while starting and driving in start and stop traffic. i.e. when accelerating from a dead start, when decelerating in a road dip and accelerating out of a road dip, when decelerating and slowing to make a turn and accelerating out of a turn. The slip and slap is also experienced at times when slowing and the vehicle downshifts. A very bad situation: Is when slowing down or rounding a turn and then accelerating out of it. Where at that certain speed when the torque from acceleration pulls out the drive train slack and the transmission shifts to the next gear simultaneously. There is a slap and thud that will make you think the wheels are falling off this vehicle.
2.Vehicle continues or has returned to generating excessive cab vibration under at least three different driving conditions. I performed three specific tests on smooth road with long inclines. First test was performed in the early morning 6:00 AM when colder and the second in the late afternoon 4:00 PM over the same road when outside temperature was 80 degrees. Tests one and two were with a #3000 tow load. Third test was without a tow load.
a. When drive train is under torque while climbing a long road incline without a tow load. Such as the long upgrades on I-70 east of Rt 13. When reaching top of grade and decelerating or coasting the vibration diminishes.
b. When drive train is under torque while accelerating with a tow load while climbing a long road incline and also on flatter terrain.
c. When accelerating in general at slower speeds during acceleration and while generating drive train torque. However this vibration is not as aggressive as a and b.
3. Vehicle is still generating hard tire or flat spot thumping response. Thumping is excessive when tires are cool to cold and lesser when tires are warm to hot. This can be experienced when reaching the top of a long road incline during the deceleration or coasting phase as mentioned above which eliminates the drive train interference for tire ride detection. If tires are cold the tires thump harder if the tires are hot it is much lesser but still apparent. Detected during first and second test in item 2 above.

micomark · May 2005

Unfortunately the 2005 F-150 has all the same problems you discuss. I have had three new tires and a rear differential and still have the vibration when vehicle is under torque of any kind. Also have slip-slap-crunch sound coming from the drive train on acceleration and when slowing and then accelerating. This platform is truly junk and definately a lemon. See you attorney about a lemon law case just as soon as you have three service orders attempting to fix this problem.

All the mail on this issue indicates dealers are just trial and error attempting to fix this problem without really knowing the true cause.

tgonzo · May 2005

Anybody?
How about where is the jack in your F-150? :confuse:

micomark · May 2005

In my 2005 F-150 super cab it is located under the rear seat on the passenger side.

micomark · May 2005

Update on my previous message: I noticed someone stated that vehicle details would be helpful when you post a particular problem in helping others better relate the issue to their own set of circumstances. Good idea. Here are my details in respect to the vibration problem on the apparently 2004 and 2005 F-150 platform.
Amazing this significant problem carried over from 2004 to 2005. This platform was apparently released premature and is a true engineering failure for Ford. My truck is a 2005 F-150 Lariat, 4X4, 5.4L, Limited Slip, Super Cab, 3.73 differential, column shift automatic. It has both a substantial vibration problem and substantial drive train slack problem. It also sounds like the gears in the differential do not mesh well on acceleration as there is a slip then a crunching type sound. See Message #1130 for a more complete analysis of my problems with vibration and drive train noise. I saw where someone still had vibration problem with 3.55 rear axle. I am wondering if the 3.33 differential that used to be in 4x4 and now only 4X2 is experiencing these problems as well? I know my 2002 F-150 4X4 333 gears was rock solid compared to this 2005 POS.

ltz2003 · May 2005

I am sorry to read about all the problems people are having. I have been gm all my life .Now i have my first ford , its F-150 FX-4 SC. This is the best new tk we have ever owned . Lots better than my last two gm trucks. 13000 miles not one thing wrong towing or otherwise. I would buy one agan in a heart beat. My brother liked it so much he went and got one. He loves his to . Good luck i know there is a lot of problems with some trucks . BUT THERE NOT ALL BAD

KCRam · May 2005

Next thing to check would be any type of electrical drain. Even though lights and the stereo will come on, you still may not have enough juice to get the diesel fired up. If a jump gets it going, it was a discharged battery, and you should have them checked anyway.

If you can completely rule out batteries/alternator/starter, then you may have a fuel delivery issue. This could be a dead fuel pump or injectors. (Hopefully, no one siphoned your tank dry in this day of high fuel prices.) You could also have an issue in the glow plug circuitry (short, etc.), although the engine should fire without them, just with great difficulty.

kcram - Pickups Host

mjkram · May 2005

I have a 2004 Lariat Supercrew 4x2, with which I've had my share of vibration and dealer problems. A new driveshaft and a shim in the carrier bearing seem to have solved about 95% of the trouble. My question is why some otherwise identical trucks have a 1 piece driveshaft, and others, like mine, a 2 piece assembly? My manufacture date is 5/04. The 4x2 Supercrew I looked under, with a 1 piece driveshaft, was manufactured 1/04. The owner of the 1 piece truck said he never had any vibration issues. I've also looked under two 4x4's, both of which had 1 piece units. Does the vibration occur more in one type than the other?

wildcats · May 2005

I agree. I bought a new F250 diesel in December after having owned an Expedition for 6 yrs. Nothing on the Expedition was required other than scheduled maintainance. The new diesel is awesome and one heck of a tow vehicle!

I recently went on a trip in a friend's Honda Pilot for 200 miles and back. Lots of road noise, the seat cushions are short with not much leg room and the ride was nothing to brag about. I don't see why people even buy them. Give me my F250 anyday!

thedave1 · May 2005

I have two questions. I just bought a used 2002 F-150 extended cab, longbed, 58,000 miles, with the V-8 two days ago. It appears to have been kept very well by the previous owner.

First, the towing question. It has a towing package installed rated at 5,000 lbs. max. I am going to be towing a 1999 Mazda 626, front wheel drive, manual transmission, from California to Iowa in a couple months. My question has to do mainly with which type of trailer I should rent. I know a tow dolly can work, but am wondering if a full-size trailer would be more stable and easier to tow for that long of a trip?

Second, the rough engine question. Like I said, I bought it two days ago. Ran great. Drove the you-know-what out of it and no signs of trouble at all. Later that evening I took it in to have the factory cassette replaced with a new CD player. Didn't drive it yesterday, Today, it starts running rough and idling rough, though not always. I read in the owner's manual that when the battery is disconnected that the computer has to "relearn" idle and fuel settings. It even has a sequnece for helping it do this, and I seriously doubt it has been done properly. Since I'm sure they disconnected the battery when they installed the CD player, and it seemed fine before that, is this most likely my problem? Or, should I be searching for something else? Thanks.

greasy · May 2005

:mad: my friends flashers are not working .checked lights then fuses and tried to find the flasher. looked under the glove box, by the steering and on the fuse block .im looking for the round can (flasher)and have not found it .nothing in the om tells me where it is .so where did they put it and what dose it look like :confuse:

ericb1 · May 2005

I am curious why there is no grease fiting on the front U joint (right behind C6 tranny) on a 76 E350 motor home? 351 W motor.

How will I know when the U joint/driveshafts need replacement? Thank you, EricB

mac24 · May 2005

It's hard to answer that without sounding like I'm trying to be smart.

So.............if there's no grease fitting on a 'u' joint, any 'u' joint, it's because it's sealed for life. Who's life?........the life of the joint of course. Could be ten minutes, could be ten years.

How will you know when it needs replacement? When there's any detectable movement, which will mean it's reached the end of its life.

See, I said I'd sound like a smart .............. oh well!

Sorry ericb, but it's the truth.

volks · May 2005

Coming home from a short trip Sunday , the 04 f150 screw 5.4 4wd lariat model went into hyper shake ...... again. this time I was really close to the house , so I kept on going , shake and all. Having a really complete garage setup , I thought I would take a look myself this time , instead of another dealer trip.
As soon as I parked the truck , I smelled burned friction material coming from the driver side rear . I jacked up the rear end , removed the tires both sides , removed the calipers / they came right off, nothing frozen etc , that led me to believe it had to be the parking brakes hanging.So here is what I found after removing the rear brake rotors {which wasn't easy/they should slide right off} The parking brake cam actuators were rusted together , not allowing the parking brake shoes to fully retract when the pedal is released. I removed the brake sets , cleaned and wire wheeled down the actuator assy's , lubed them up , lubed the adjusters and brake shoe mounting points {everything bone dry from the factory} and reinstalled and properly adjusted the parking brakes. It all works like it was supposed to now . This may be more than the average owner wants to tackle , Honestly I shouldn't have had to do this either , but the dealer never found this , and I am getting tired of taking the truck in everytime it shakes. I don't know if this will cure the problem , But I hope this may help someone else with similiar shake issues and maybe point Ford in the right direction !!

sjs42464 · May 2005

i also have that mysterious violent shudder that comes and goes!had it to my dealer 3 times.so far balence tires, change drive shaft and universials, 5/24/05 ford rep comming to check it out.after that me and my lawyer and the lemon law!!!!its a shame when you spend 38000.00 and it can be fix!sam :sick:

:lemon:

turningtodd · May 2005

Hello all Ford Owners;
I am glad I found this forum. I have driven a Ford truck since my first 1975 Ford Courier and since gone through 5 F-150's. My '04 F-150 FX4 is the worst F-150 I have ever owned. At 36,000 miles it is at the dealership now for like the 7th time, two of these are to replace the Clutch Packs in the Differential. Key to this message is my truck was the 3rd F-150 in one day with this problem at my local dealer. Service tech spoke with Ford Engineer, they began having these problems since 2000 models. The material was changed so the steel was not hardened appropriately and they use a synthetic lubricant. From what I was told, they have re-designed the material now three times, I am getting a whole new package installed Next Day Aired direct from Ford Motor which is supposed to solve this problem
Many have mentioned slap and vibration. When the clutch packs go bad, and you turn from a stop the truck feels like you are in 4x4. This is a great indication you have a problem. I also noticed vibration when towing a bobcat dual axle trailer.
Other problems I have had include; the truck has self-accelerated in wet conditions (there is no mechanical throttle cable, wisdom changed it to a computer); the back seat rattels/rubs against the back window (so much for a quiet truck); it takes over a minute for the temperature control to change from floor or dash heat to defrost or vice versa (A minute into freezing rain and you are in trouble); the brake pedals switch to turn off the cruise control was broken and rattled constantly (very annoying and very hard to identify the source); Finally, what is the material of the back fender? I got a rock in the HUGE gap between the tailgate and the fender and it chipped off the material. It looks like some sort of plastic composite....definitely not steel.

This long time Ford owner is going to seriously consider another brand unless I get some good incentive from Ford to trade for another Ford truck this summer. I don't give up my loyalty easily and am a little embarrassed to do so, but I think the lead engineer for Ford's new truck went for style over substance this time around.

turningtodd · May 2005

Clutch Packs. I suggest you mention this to your dealer and read my last post.

newfieford · May 2005

i have a 200 f-150 supercab 4x4,w/ the 5.4 l and the problem with your engine with the rough idlol maby the result of a bad ignition coil cause i have after replacing 6 ignition coils over the last 180,000 km, so you might want to try that if you want

newfieford · May 2005

i am presently looking for somewhere to buy stainless steel exhaust manifold studs to re-mount my manifolds or headers when i get them to my 2000 ford f-150 4x4 supercab w/ the 5.4L engine, so i dont have to wory about them rusting off again, i have a 180,000 on this vehicle and i like it very much and intend to keep it for awhile, so as things break or rust off with age i want to replace it with better stronger parts, oh yeah,and it is rust checked every year.so if anyone knows where i can get these s/s manifold studs i would appreciate a reply. thanks

damcam · May 2005

I am getting really upset, I have been to the freakin Ford dealership (Alexander) and them mothers, tell me that I did something wrong, nobody else has complained of any Brake/Rotor problems. I asked them the call Big O Tires, and verify my story, all I was told to do it to get Big O to do the rotor job, because they are cheaper than the dealership. I am also trying to find out whether or not I have to replace the composite rotors with composite? Can you :lemon: or anyone help me out. :mad: . :lemon:

arkirby3 · May 2005

OMG! Man! I feel your pain!

I'm having a problem with my Ford dealer and Ford myself. I've got a braking system that failed to stop my '02 F-150 King Ranch. I had to brake fast for an ambulance, and my truck kept on going.. and going ... and going.... I take it to an independent who tells me I need the dealership to diagnose further. The dealership says all my parts and electronics are within Ford specs. Everything was "green lighted" even after the little braking incident, but the service manager still witnessed the braking problem. Now Ford corp. says.. just replace the rotors and the pads with OEM to the tune of becoming a $685 safety experiment. I don't know what I'm gonna do about this problem yet. I've filed a complaint with the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration.

Good Luck and God Speed from Florida!

btenvy1 · May 2005

I had a set of these on my old 2000 Chevy Silverado. Please, if you have these tires check them out. The left rear lost tread and tire pressure about 6 months ago and cause the truck to roll 40 mph. Total loss on the truck, caused wife and kid injuries. Look especially for cracking inside the tread. Goodyear has claimed they are not responsible for the tire. The report stated something was hit with the tire and caused the separation. Believe me, this is not the case. The tires were 305/75/R16.

Thanks,
btenvy

greasy · May 2005

thats a year 2000 ford 350 still cannot find it

teedoff · May 2005

I have a 2000 F-150. I noticed a lot of paint bubbles on the front of the hood so I brought it to the dealer. They said it was their fault due to some problem during painting. Since I was out of warranty they offered to pay half of a approx. $400 repair. They need the truck for a week and won't give a loaner. Rust will be here shortly. Seems to me if they caused the problem. they should pay for it. I guess ford paint jobs are only good for 3 years. Nowadays it seems all other models hardly ever rust out. I'll be buying a new truck next year approx. $35k. It will not be a ford. Real good business sense on their part.
Thanks for listening
teedoff

farm1 · May 2005

I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew with a hard tonneau cover that hinges on the front panel of the bed (aftermarket, but in place when I bought it from the Ford dealership).
The front wall of the bed has come loose in the upper left corner, and moves back and forth allowing the cover to hit the window molding. The Ford dealership has said it is because of the weight of the tonneau cover. I am out of warranty, and they won't cover anyway since the cover was aftermarket.
Any comments, or ideas how to fix this and keep it from reoccuring?

alkanx · May 2005

Hi, anyone used wider tires on factory rims, mine are 18 inches, tires are 265/60/18, was planning for 285/60/18 but was not sure if someone has tried it...

Thanks,
AL

04 Spcrw 4X2 5.4L (Lariat)

path2 · May 2005

To kcram and tallyho. I have the same problem with my 2001 F250 4X4 7.3 Diesel. It is difficult to start in the cold weather. If I plug it in overnight it is OK. When the temp is at or below 32 deg. it acts like it if flooded. If I leave it sit for a while (20 mts) it did start and blew smoke untill it setteled down and then ran fine.The dealer cheked the batteries and said they were ok then said the starter was bad. With a new starter and a $475.00 bill the problem happened again two or three times. Needless to say I aint going back there again.. The weather warmed up and I have not had the problem since I expect I will have the problem again come cold weather time.
Have you solved your problem yet? What was the temperature when you had your problem trying to start your Diesel.? Would Ford Motor Company be smart enough to answer this question.?
path2.

KCRam · May 2005

Path, if your batteries are ok, starter is new, and alternator has the right juice, you may have a glow plug problem (and the dealer should have checked for this). Trying to start a diesel with just one bad glow plug will be like trying to start a gasoline engine with one bad spark plug.

kcram - Pickups Host

newfguy · May 2005

hey everyone im new in here.....i just bought a 1991 f-150 with a 5.8 engine..and i was wondering what the common problems were on these trucks...i am having the valve cover gaskets replaced tomorrow along with the thermostat housing gasket..while the valve covers are off are there any other things i should do??clean the throttle body or intake??are there any common egr problems??
i have read a little bit about somee screen on the back side of the block that gets clogged...if anyone knows anything any help will be greatly appreciated...thank you!!!!!

jkw · May 2005

:lemon: ?
I have a New 2005 F150 Lariat with less than 1000 miles & garage keep.
I recently found 7 Paint Blemishes, some as big as 7x14" that can only be seen in certain lighting conditions.
My Ford dealership has acknowledged that there is a problem and is willing to paint the effected areas under Warranty.
Questions: Should I agree to have the work done?
Should I insist they paint the whole Truck?
Since the Dealership say this was a Factory created condition, Should I try to get Ford to replace my truck?
Has anyone had a similar problem?, How was it resolved?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks in Advance, Jkw

KCRam · May 2005

At 1000 miles, the truck is new enough that a full repaint is not really necessary, but do insist on repaint of the entire body panel where a blemish exists... for example, if there is a 4-inch blemish on the bed side, have the entire bed side repainted.

kcram - Pickups Host

bloodyknuckles · May 2005

to the diesels between glow plugs or the relay and 1 other thing change the oil every 3,000 miles with good oil.
the paint problem hey if a body shop fixes the spots or how ever be happy no they will not replace the truck due to paint and will prob just fix spots or a whole body panel(repainted).
to any and all with vibration type concerns stop complaining on here, be polite and give the dealer all possible info, ford and the dealer will fix it stop crying here about lemon law .
it is no wander toyota is taking over as the biggest seller in usa .their parts fo their cars cost more than the same thing on a ford ,so go by a toyota and i'll keep driving a real truck that drives like a TRUCK with all the shakes and vibrations
peace out gbnf

jkw · May 2005

Thanks
Not looking forward to it,

78bronco · May 2005

I don't drive a diesel but am a mechanic on diesels for the Air Force. Almost all of the ones that we have are very cold natured and hard to start in the winter. Plugging them in works because you are warming them up prior to starting them but you pay for that in your electricity. One thing that you may have heard of to do is us a starting agent or equivalent which is acceptable but not the wisest thing to use. They can cause damage over time inside of the engine. Instead you can use a heat gun or hair dryer. By blowing it into the air intake you are preheating the air and making the engine think that it is already warm. You mat have to hold the hair dryer there for a few minutes before it truly warms the air enough though.

iowahawk · May 2005

This is a follow-up on my initial post (#1042) and a respopnse to # 1076. When a mechanic from my dealership finally heard and felt the clunking noises I got in the drive train of my '04 F-150, they replaced a vacuum control switch which apparently had been trying to engage the 4-wheel drive on its own. I'm 2 weeks past that switch replacement, and have encountered none of the clunks so imagine (and hope) they cured it. The dealership people have been very sincere in their desire to find the problem, so I have no complaints in that regard, unlike some others on here. And if the truck keeps running as it does now, I will drive it a long time; there really is a lot to like about it.

path2 · May 2005

Thank you all for the tips on starting my F250 diesel. I am about to take a trip to Alaska and will apply these tips and some others I have learned along the way,such as making sure the fuel filter and air filters are clean ., the glow plugs are all working properly etc. Keep the ideas comming and I will let you know from time to time how everything is working. Thanks again.
Path2.

unhappy1 · May 2005

Larry,
I don't know if it will help or not, but your may want to try and talk the Regional Manager for Ford. I don't know if he covers your region or not, but it worth a shot. You know Ford has the Secret Club where no one but happy customers get to talk with a person from Ford Motor Company. And they wonder why we need to buy Toyota, or Nissan.

Good Luck and don't post it for everyone to see. 972-334-1822.

unhappy1 · May 2005

Have you ever tried to talk with someone at Ford Motor Company when you have a problem with there product? If so, how'd you get through all the BS on the local level? We'll I finally got through, and got a number for a Regional Manager. After he finished the company line he hung up on me. I called him back to let him know that the only reason I can think of for hanging up on a customer is one. You don't know any better. if want the number let me know.

jkw · May 2005

What Reigion? I'm in Co, and I'll take that #.
Thanks

miller7 · May 2005

I have a 2002 F-250 4x4 7.3 diesel and the warranty is expiring today, the service manager recommends getting the extended policy which would cover me for 3years and /or 35k miles. it cost about $1800. any thoughts.

jerrysf150 · May 2005

I bought a 2005 F150, Super Cab 4X4 with 5.4L engine. I love the truck in every way but one. When I bought it, the sticker price stated the vehicle gets 14 MPG City and 18 MPG Highway. Ok, I can live with some deviation of the numbers. I've owned numerous foreign made cars and they all had HIGHER actual MPG than the sticker numbers stated they should.

My 2005 F150 has never gotten more than 11 MPG !!!

The dealer says there is nothing wrong with the vehicle.

I'm furious with gas prices at $2 a gallon ($70 per fill up), I feel like I've been taken for a ride. If the actual MPG was posted on the sticker, I would have never bought the vehicle.

f450 · May 2005

If you take off the dash cover they are between the dash and the a/c vent..The emergency flasher and turn signal flasher are the same part number and are side by side..They are square, maybe a cover on them...About $13.00

f450 · May 2005

I should have said instrument panel cover comes off not dash cover..

spacercable · May 2005

I have a new style 04 f150. It has 2900 miles. Three weeks ago I started to feel minor vibrations that escalated to severe vibrations with a metal to metal clunking noise at certain speeds. It is intermittent. I brought it back to Ford to no avail. Does anyone know what the problem is?

2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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