2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

ryanbab · July 2005

Where I used to work we had a few F350 SWR CC trucks years 2000-2002. I think all of them had the fuel pump go out before they hit 40K miles. Never threw a code or anything they just wouldnt start. These trucks were driven in harsh conditions (steel mill) for short times and ran pretty close to empty all the time so that could contribute to the fuel pump problem. I would say start there

Ryan

racer55 · July 2005

thanks for the info. this makes the most sense in this case. i did finally get a pressure tester and it tests ok. but i still think it is bad. i too run it on empty a lot. i will let you know if this fixes it.

vinny2424 · July 2005

my 2005 f-150 crew cab with moonroof,the headliner vibrates anybody having these problems. thanks.

rossc · July 2005

I bought a new 04 ford F-150 4x4 lariat it has ~20,000 miles on it....in the past 2 weeks I have experienced a strange noise almost like something is dragging or something. It has happened twice now. It only happens at low speeds and then truck will shift and it stops. I have not contacted the dealer because I was hoping someone would be able to give me a little heads up on what it is before the dealer gives me one of those "well we cant reproduce it....blah blah". Thanks in advance...RC

mvhammy · July 2005

I got a message on one of the forums (I've entered 3 or 4 now). The person suspects that the cause is the MLSP switch. It's mounted on the transmission. It is connected by cable to the shift lever on the steering column. It tells the transmission whether you want neutral, 1st, 2nd, 3rd or overdrive by turning on and of the shifting solenoids inside the transmission. I'm going to buy one and give it a try. I already check for the correct cable adjustment and it was right on.

whtssup3 · July 2005

I also lost my Tranny at 51k and now I think the rear end is going. Ther dealer that fixed my transmission said they were having problems with the rear end and in fact that was the first place he check when the transmission went. And no I did not get any help from Ford on the transmission which sucked... Time to go back to chevy!!

wpalkowski · July 2005

Since you've changed out just about everything else...have you looked at the IAC? Idle air control solenoid behind the throttle body plenum. Did your B.I.L have any problems with iding rough before it finally died? Initial symptoms of a bad IAC, you need to step on the gas to keep the engine running or it stalls out.

Test: Try to start the truck with the throttle depressed about 1/4 way. If it starts, or at least tries to start better than before, then it's probably the IAC.

Also:
You can also get a feel for your fuel pressure without a fuel pressure gauge - there's a shrader valve on the fuel rail. If crank the engine the fuel pump should come on, and you should get a healthy squirt outta the valve when you press it. (Be careful - wear safety goggles) If not, then check fuel pump relay, or fuel pump.

dr15 · July 2005

I have an 87 f250 6 cyl work truck and I think the CC may be bad. The truck has no power what so ever and stalls. How is the best way to check to make sure it is the CC and not something else. I have already changed the O2 sensor. Thanks

racer55 · July 2005

thanks for the info. i did buy a gauge and have 40 psi of pressure so i think the fuel pump is fine. i have not looked at the iac yet. i can get it to start for a second and die. then it takes about a day for it to start again. the truck was running normal right up to the point that it died, never rough idling. the whole thing is irritating to me. i have always been able to fix my vehicles until this one. i am probably going to have it towed to a ford dealer and have it diagnosed, then fix it myself. however if the computor is bad i have been told that only the dealer can install it because it has to be programmed. is this true?

hfmj · July 2005

I had the samething with my 2004 F 150. My brother-law is a mechanic at big dealership in NY. He told me not to worry about it that it was a common problem with the limited slip rear ends I believe he said some kind of clutch assembly in it and it wouldnt hurt to drive it until I could get it fixed. I had it taken care of about 2months/3000mi ago and everything is great.

havehadit · July 2005

Another trial run yesterday revealed that the ghost is still there, so I went to the shop that I trust. The owner drove it and for the first time an expert could feel and hear it. He says since there is no error code that a number of electrical items could be the culprit. He suggests we try replacing the MLSP switch and see what happens and that he can't guarantee it but it's worth a try. He's doing that today and I'll give you the results after I drive it some. You guys probably know this but he says the MLSP gets a signal from the computer as to the gear that the transmission is in or should go to. If the switch is faulty it is searching for the correct gear. HAVEHADIT

vinny2424 · July 2005

anybody having problems with there headliners,2005 f-150 crew.

kross · July 2005

Hello, I have a question concerning my 1986, F-150, 8 cylinder, automatic, gas, fuel injected.
On a mild acceleration the engine will start shaking (assuming its missing?) very hard.
If I accelerate hard enough and force it to down-shift, it is like a switch is thrown and it is smooth as silk again. (dry road, cold or hot engine)
Again, I can, for the most part, prevent this by flooring it. But with gas over $2 I would rather do that for fun.
Been reading my Chilton book for help but it does not cover fuel injected engines concerning these types of problems, just carburetor.

Searched the F-150 message board, nothing seemed to match even close.
Any ideas?

vinny2424 · July 2005

My 2005 f-150 lariat crew has a moon roof,the headliner rattles every bump is anyone having similar issues.

ajever1 · July 2005

My husband and I just purchased a new 2005 f-150, XLT pkg (same engine). At 1000 miles they've replaced the ring & pinion and now, @ 3000 miles we are experiencing a severe hesitating problem...all "dummy" lights are on, vehicle will only move about 55/60 mph! Dealer is claiming it is the throttle positioning sensor! This is our 3rd new truck in 3 years (all Ford) and each one the dealer has taken back and given an "even exchange" of another new vehicle! We started with an F-250 then F-350 and now...F-150! So far, even though it seems to have numerous problems already, this has been one of the best designs in my opinion! Make sure you get documentation for each visit to the dealer with the complaint and any resolution noted! Good Luck!

jbrown538 · July 2005

My 1994 F150 when you let off the gas and then go to get back on it there is poping noise and the truck jerks real bad for a second or two then lines itself out and runs good.this happens no matter how fast I am going but seems to happen more between 20 and 35 mph.If anyone could give some advice it would be appreciated

nokey · July 2005

Had a flat today and could not change. No spare tire key. Service manager at local dealership told me he had master but wouldn't let me use unless I had truck towed to his shop. Also that the entire winch assembly had to be replaced if key was lost. That doesn't seem right to me. Any way to get a new key?

ammojeff · July 2005

hey thanks it turned out to be that the person who had it before me did his own wire work and half assed it and twisted the wires together and just left it like that then hid it all behind some electrical tape so it all melted together thanks anyhow

jrowles · July 2005

I can't tell you how sorry I am, but in some way I can relate... I also have a 2005 4x4 crew with the 5.4L 3v motor and got it about 4 months ago. Heard the same noise and thought it was a lifter noise in the cam. First time at the dealership, they claimed everything is "as it should be" then the second time I took it, they finally said they were able to duplicate the sound and did nearly $1,000 in warranty work to fix the problem. The sound went away after I got it back ( it took a week ) but has now resurfaced. I can't tell you how frustrated I am with this seeing how this is the first NEW vehicle I've purchased not to mention there are other problems. The tranny or axle is slushy and/or hesitant to upshift from 2 to 3 with noise. They of course couldn't duplicate that at the dealership, but did produce a service bulliten that a clunk noise from 2nd to 3rd is normal ( yeah.. that makes me feel great! ). Anyways, I could go on to a couple other problems but I feel like I'm just ranting. More and more I wish I would have taken the trip to the Toyota dealership and picked me up a real reliable truck.!

jrowles · July 2005

That is EXACTLY the same way I feel and I honestly don't know what to do about it. I have heard that a company called Troyer Performance has a resolution to the problem... but it of course envolves $$$$$ to the tune of $1000 - 1600 to speed it up. Has a chip, full exhaust, and air intake and these work together to get 40-45hp. I'm trying to decide whether to save and get it, or hold of and maybe trade the beast in. I think I payed plenty for it, and it should freakin' move not to mention when I step on the pedal all it does is drain the MPG not bump the speedo.

jrowles · July 2005

When you said you had it taken care of... what exactly did they do? I think I'm experiencing the same problem as a result of the limited slip and it happens on the upshift during acceleration. Any more information would be appreciated because this is frustrating problem to me

e1101 · July 2005

1994 F-150 XLT, 5.2L (I think) 302, AOD tran, dual tanks, EFI, 235K miles.

Two weeks ago my truck started dropping then re-gaining normal engine RPM when I shift into reverse or drive. It's worse in reverse. The surge down then up is quick and gets worse the longer I stay in reverse (in a few seconds I am hitting my head on the rear window) and usually stalls if I don't shift into N quickly. When I shift in Drive it is barely noticeable, and stops as soon as I press the gas even a little. If I give it some gas in Reverse, the truck FLIES backwards and I have to SLAM THE BRAKES which results in a thump from the tranny and the engine stalls.

The truck is running fast. I have to put the brakes on a little harder then I normally do, and after a few seconds at a complete stop the idle will simmer down to normal. When cranking from a cold/warm start, the idle is normal. NEVER surges when in P or N.

I have needed to replace the EGR valve for several months but for different reason. Evidence of that problem still occurs the same as it always has. (Drop in pick-up at take off, lasts a couple of days then normal for several days.)

ritter · July 2005

I'M GOING TO ARBITRATION NOW FOR MY F 150 SUPERCREW. I'VE HAD MY DRIVESHAFT MY TIRES MY DIFFERENTIAL MY REAR END CLUTCH MY DASH BOARD AND MY TRAILER HITCH AND A DAMPER KIT AND U JOINTS REPLACED. WOW. I HAVE 29000 MILES ON THE TRUCK AND TRADED A BEAUTIFUL 2001 F150 SUPERCREW. I DROVE THE NEW ONES AND THEY HAVE THE SAME VIBRATION PROBLEM. I DON'T WANT ANOTHER FORD. ANY ADVICE? RITTER . THERE'S ALSO SOME ATTORNEYS THAT OFFER A FORM FOR ARBITRATION FOR $ 100. IS IT WORTH IT?

lancekilgore · July 2005

hello new to the group and could not fine a existing discussion on air bag codes. I have a F150 2000 ford with a air bag light on and the code that keeps blinking is 27. Can any body give me what the code means? or even better a list or link to where all the codes are and how to clear them?

Thanks in advance
lance

rjspaeth · July 2005

Has anyone successfully fixed the steering wheel shudder?

I have now had a wheel alignment, 4 new tires and now a frame dampening kit installed on my truck.
The service advisor drove my truck and I also drove the truck home. We both thought this was fixed with the frame dampener.

About 2 days later the shudder was back. The steering wheel moved almost 1 inch from side to side. The advisor is telling me that this is now road feel from a rough road. I told him I can feel this even on smooth roads and see it in the steering wheel.

The problem seems to be intermittant but I am not sure. I had someone else with a 2004 SuperCrew and they said they can feel the same problem.

I am starting to think this truck is a lemon! :lemon:

Any suggestions or help is appreciated!

lancekilgore · July 2005

Hello just ran into your problem as well, mine started comming on after I went and did some really rough off roading, I think the problem is the sensor in the front of the vehicle. so pleass email me backif you found a solution. Hate to take it into the dealer.

Lance :confuse:

tgarrett3 · July 2005

I have a 95 ford F150 302 v/8. When I switch to max air, the door that closes off outside air doesn't operate, also if left on max a door will close when accelerating and air comes out on your feet, and stays there. I can switch to normal air and it blows from the dash vents and occasionally will switch but not as often. I replaced the switch on the dash that has the electrical vacuum distribution attached and it didn't do any good. If anyone has any ideas I'd appreciate it. Thanks Tom

hbremis · July 2005

I'm trying to locate the cam and crank position sensors on my wife's 2000 F-150. I assume the cam sensor is a hall-effect type sensor? Any help would be appreciated.

2005graypwrstk · July 2005

I have 12k mis on my '05 Powestroke. Since the odometer hit 3k mis, when driving at altitude I get loud flutter/banging when I let off the gas at lower speeds. I've been into 3 different dealers for a total of 4 times and told the flutter is normal, although they addressed several codes on different occasions. The problem seemingly has progressed. I now get a lesser flutter off and on at sea level and a constant one at over 3 or 4k feet altitude. I contacted Ford 3 weeks ago and said I wanted a buy back and was told I would be contacted in 4 or 5 days....NOT. I've owned 20 Fords....this is my first Powestroke. I wish I got the V10 again this time. I can't believe Ford engineered this loud racket into these expensive engines. Any feedback on your experiences would be greatly appreciated.

golobo · July 2005

My husband purchased a 2005 F-150 extended cab last week. While driving it home from the dealer lot, it accelerated when I pressed the brake. I never drive pick ups, so I thought I must have done something or pushed some button to make it rev up like that. Then my husband drove it and went in a ditch because when he applied the brake it tried to take off! We called Ford and they sent a wrecker & picked it up. We talked to the Ford repair center where it was towed. They have not gotten it to repeat the problem yet...but I'm sure they will. This truck has less than 80 miles on the odometer!!!
It must be rare but I wonder if anyone else has had this experience.

racer55 · July 2005

does any one know about fuel pressure regulators? i was wondering if the diaphram goes bad in one if fuel would be pumped into the plenum via vacuum hoses?

wpalkowski · July 2005

You've got a vaccuum leak somewhere else in the system. When you accelerate the (especially when you really romp on it) the vaccuum pressure drops. Since you've got a leak somewhere else the vaccuum pressure goes to zero. As a result there's not enough left to control the ventilation so the air switches to your feet.
Go through the rest of the truck and check all the vaccuum lines, and the little t-connectors for brittleness and/or cracks. Vaccuum hose is fairly inexpensive, you can just go through and change them all on a 10 year old vehicle....the truck will probably run a little better too once you find the leak(s).

fromjava · July 2005

I just purchased a F150 5.4l it has less than 1400 miles on it, my problem startyed the first night with noise from the rear they said just bring it on Satarday so i did,they said come back later we don not have enough techs so i did but now they said this is normal operating noise and will not give me any documentation that i have brought the car in. I need help

runjim · July 2005

I would go straight to the showroom, start asking for the owner or manager, describe the issue in a louder and louder voice, until they decide to help you.
Just my 2 cents.... good luck.

chelsee · July 2005

When you go before the board state that you want a buyback and not a replacement.
They bought my 1999 Expedition back in 2000 but I agreed to the replacement this time and then found out they wanted me to pay manufactor's listed price without the rebate for a new truck till i went to the State Attorneys office who got me a better deal with Ford. Try the Arbitration board or your State Attorney's Office first. Good Luck.

ajever1 · July 2005

As long as your vehicle is under warranty, you can go to any Ford dealership of your choice and it will be covered! I would suggest a new dealership & contact Ford directly and complain about the un-professional service (or lack of) that you received! I would also suggest that each time you bring your vehicle in for service that you receive some type of service authorization form...with the complaint listed! Good Luck!

lucasred · July 2005

Any thoughts appreciated. 1994 F250 5.8L While driving at 25-30 mph the truck died. No spark coming out of coil. I replaced the coil - nothing. I replaced the ICM - nothing. I replaced the stator/pickup in distributor - nothing. I finally replaced the EEC-IV engine computer - still no spark coming out of coil at secondary (spark plug) wire. I do have power to the coil during start at + terminal. Pretty much ran every test I could find in chilton manual. Everything seemed to test out OK, but no spark coming out of coil. Any ideas?
Thanks
Jim

havehadit · July 2005

Have driven 103 miles since replacing the MLPS with no problem. Apparently this was the problem. Total cost $143.00. (for mvhammy and runjim and others with a similar problem. Ford issued a TSB on the problem in 1995. You can find any TSB at www.nhtsa.dot.gov/. HAVEHADIT

jroach · July 2005

Hello Everyone!

I too experienced the same thing Tom did with his vibrating truck. Mine is an 04 F-150, 5.3L, 19,000 Miles . I have both types of the vibration that is going around. I have the 48-58 MPH constant finger tingle vibration from the steering wheel. It has been back to the dealer 4 times for this type(balanced tires, rotated driveshaft, added counter-balance weight, etc.). No improvement yet. Vibration is worse under load.

The second vibration is the insidious one as it is intermittent. First appeared in Jan of 05. Very cold day so I forgave it. Two months later it does it again. No check engine light or codes found by the service dept when returned with description of mysterious vibration. It comes on at odd times and lasts for about 2-3 miles. When I stop the truck and shut it off and restart it the problem goes away. It is starting to do it about once a week. I think this truck is going back to Ford. No problems with the dealership or service as they are trying to fix this truck. I can't fault them because they did not design or build this vehicle, Ford did.

If anyone else has this type of problem please post it so that we can find out how wide spread this is.

Thanks,
Jack

rich3457 · July 2005

Have you had it back to the dealer? I am lookinmg to buy the same model with moon roof.

tgarrett3 · July 2005

Thanks I'll check out the lines again, I looked them over and don't see any that looked cracked or broken. It's got a pretty simple vacuum system. That's whats got me stumped. There are 2 solenoids in the vacuum diagram called air D and air B, Do you know what these are?

fordmech · July 2005

The hose is a vent hose to prevent pressure buildup that happens as the diff lube expands from heat. The hose will mount to the body or frame above the diff as high as possible with enough flex room for full suspension movement, check for blockage (hose, nipple) also disconnect from diff connection, run a wire thru far enough to make sure there is no blockage. I use a small tie wrap around the hose at the diff fitting for a good seal at the diff. The valve at the top of the hose keeps water from entering if you are forging a creek/river, check that also. Should allow air out, nothing in. Blockage in the vent will cause diff lube to leak thru the outer seals, soak the brake material, must be replaced. Hope this helps. Woot

fordmech · July 2005

Dam that's a tuff one, I fixed 10 of them. 5.8 or 5.0 doesn't matter. Is the idle smooth or sometimes rough? Lots of problems with EGR valves sticking open somewhat, vacume pump can check that, remove and clean, or just remove the vacume line, while the idle is smooth, plug the vacume feed line, tell me if there is a difference. There is also specific routing patern for ignition wires. Hope this helps, Woot

tgarrett3 · July 2005

wpalkowski Thanks a bunch You were right. The vacuum hose going through the firewall to the vacuum valve that closes when you go to max air was rotten inside the plastic wire holder. I was able to pull it through and replace it. It took care of the problem Thanks again Tom

leif7151 · July 2005

I have had my 1999 F-250 in the local Ford dealership for a week now and they cannot figure out what is wrong with my truck. The symtoms are: Running realing rough as if the engine were about to stall due to flooding, smoke from the tail pipe with a rich smell of fuel not being efficiently burned. The dealer has identified he beleives it is some type of short and has been on the phone with the tech reps from ford with no luck so far. Any ideas?? I bought this truck used and I currently live in Lousiana but the truck came from Canada and had the heater coil plug in for cold weather. Thanks

beachrichard · July 2005

Does anyone know what Ford vehicle radios can be put in a 2000 F350 Super Duty with just plug and play with the available wiring harness. I want to replace an AM/FM Cassette with an AM/FM Dual Media CD/Cassette radio. Does anyone know where I can go on the internet to find a compatibility chart for Ford vehicles? Thanks in advance.

wpalkowski · July 2005

www.crutchfield.com - they have charts to show what radios will fit in the vehicle and can also sell you wiring adapter that plug into trucks's wiring harness to allow quick and easy radio hookup.

wpalkowski · July 2005

:shades: You're welcome!

I had similar problem a few years back w/ my F-150.
Sometimes the simple stuff will make you nuts.

vizerdrix · July 2005

I hope someone can help me with a problem my hubby and I are having. We just (yesterday) had our '86 F150 tested for the Ontario Drive Clean Emmisions, and it took the mechanic most of the day to get it to pass, on the curb-side idle CO2 test. To do this, he had to play around with the carb and get the fuel mixture so lean, the poor truck didn't have any power! Legally, he wasn't allowed to change the settings afterwards, but he showed us how to readjust the carb, which we started working on. Took it for a drive last night, and it still needed a bit more adjusting. So this morning, hubby inspected the fuel filter and put it back on, everything looked fine. Adjusted the mixture a bit more, then he took it around the block for a test drive. Didn't make it to the end of the street! The carb was leaking fuel at the base, and spewing fuel from the top! Also, it was noticed that the gasket from the air filter compartment was missing after we picked up our truck, and we thought it might somehow have accidently fallen in, but we can't see it in the carb... Any suggestions?

vizerdrix · July 2005

Sometimes, a hammer will solve the worlds problems.

Turns out the float was stuck, and a few light taps with a hammer loosened it up, and the truck is running fine again. Next question: how do I prevent this from happening again? Will I need to take the carb apart and do something with the float, or should I just make sure there is always a hammer available in the truck?

Thanks!

...chris

2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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