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2013 and earlier-Subaru Outback Lease Questions
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I read all of your posts and entirely understand (as well as appreciate) them. Actually, many of the responses you received blows my mind. While actually buying a car at dealer cost can be a tough thing for many people to accomplish (depending on where they live and/or the effort they want to put into it), it is entirely doable exactly for the reasons you stated previously. In the end, it is all about being knowledgeable about what you want, how much you are willing to pay, reading the fine print, and being assertive.
So, thank you for your contribution.
In any event, know one even thinks about the price or the payment a month or two after the purchase. Its over by that point. I love my outback, I miss the manual transmission I had in my last car but this CVT is fantastic. I was concerned about a lack of power as well but all is good in the hood.
Take care my friend, thanks for the support
Once I cracked the code on leasing math, I wrote a little routine for myself that I could play out on a programmable calculator and later an early laptop that I'd bring with me to the dealership to help keep the dealer 'honest'. In those days, they'd get away with murder. You could negotiate a price and the value of a trade, they'd quote money factor and residual, and yet the monthly payment would always come out way higher than it should! Magic (in their pocket). I always ended up in a fight over the calculation, and once brought TMCC into the situation to arbitrate. I advised most people who didn't understand the subject to stay away from leasing. 'Leasing' could too easily become 'fleecing'.
Now the web is full of third party calculators that do this all for you. All you have to do is negotiate as you stated. First the car as a purchase, the trade separately later, and then look for the best lease terms (further out of pocket cap cost reduction, MF, residual, sales tax up front vs delayed, over mileage charges, incentives as cash back or cap cost reduction, initiation fees, etc.) depending on your anticipated needs and best financial outcome for your situation.
I also learned neat tricks like how to transfer title at the end of the lease to a new buyer to escape having to pay over mileage and even minor damage without taking title and paying more sales tax! With Dodge, I even found that the residual to buy it out was negotiable at the end of the lease. That worked well when the used car market dropped and they knew they would take a bath at the wholesale auction.
Cudos on knowing how to work the system and on getting a great deal.
All banks are different, so many of them will negotiate the buyout for you, but many of the manufacturers finance companies may not. Transferring title also means you can trade the car in early and get something else if the math is in your favor. I know VW won't but I leased a GTi a few years back from Sovereign Bank and they dropped like 2 grand come lease end.
Right on guys!!!
And again I apologize for all the nastiness in that conversation, I just don't take being called a liar lightly, especially from Internet Super Hero's who hide behind the monitor. You should have seen the posts that were deleted. The guy ended up calling the dealership where I bought it, the staff laughed at him b/c they were following the whole thing in this forum. My salesman backed me up and he went packing. That's a beautiful win right there. The salesman called me from the showroom as they read the stuff, we had a good laugh.
Just get the price nailed down first and agree on it, trade value second and only after the price of the car is established no if ands or buts!!!!! Then you will get the calculated payment and adjust as I said above as needed. I recommend doing this either online or on the phone on the last weekend of the month, that way you aren't trapped in one showroom all day and the dealer will be motivated, you get better results working the phones with 3 or 4 dealers at the same time and you will save a lot of running around. Good Luck.
Can you please tell me the residual and money factor for a 12,000 miles lease for this car?
Thanks
Subaru is not currently providing any cash incentives on leases of this model.
Car_man
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Could someone help me find out what the residual and money factor would be for a 2.5i Premium Outback? I would like this for both 36mo and 42mo lease period and for 10k and 12k miles/year. Does it make a difference if I specify the transmission (manual) and options (AWP)?
I.e.
1) 36mo (10k): MF=__, Residual =__
2) 36mo (12k): MF=__, Residual =__
3) 42mo (10k): MF=__, Residual =__
4) 42mo (12k): MF=__, Residual =__
Many thanks!
Inv 32863
MF .00120
Res 53% 10,000 miles
Cap Cost 30785
Inception Fees $1500
Monthly Payment with tax of 6.5% $475
Are the inception fees realistic?
The Dealer is Schumacher Subaru in WP Fl.
BB
I'm in the market for a 2010 OB 2.5i with a few added options. I'm wondering:
1. Does anyone recommend any Long Island (NY) dealers? If so, please give me some reasons why, names, etc.
2. I'd like Car Man to provide the most up-to-date residual and money factor for this OB. Also any reasons I should go with buying over leasing (I plan on keeping the car for a long time).
3. Should I wait until the 2011 comes out, so I can get a better deal on the 2010? Anyone know when the 2011 will be available?
Thank you guys very much.
Last June I leased a 2009 2.5i manual SE Outback with all the gear and mat in the rear, mats and auto dimming rear mirror. The agreed upon terms were 297/ mo for 36 months and 15k/ yr. I love the wagon but my needs have changed. I called and got a payoff amount and plan on trying to trade the Outback in but Im unclear as to how much I actually owe and how to determine it? Chase, or Subaru Motor Finance says I owe $19,xxx and the dealers will offer me $20,xxx for the car on trade. Is this all that is needed? Im curious and dont know how to figure out the math. I got it at 15k/ yr as I wasnt sure how much I would drive as historically it is a lot but im sitting at 11800 right now in my first year so I am way under mileage. Looking for some help here. Thanks.
Car_man
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Subaru's current lease money factor and residual value for a 36 month lease of a 2.5i Premium Outback with 12,000 miles per year are .00115 and 53%, respectively.
The numbers for an otherwise identical 42 month lease are .00145 and 50%.
The transmission does indeed make a difference. These are the numbers for models equipped with an automatic transmission.
If you were to lease this vehicle with only 10,000 miles per year, its residual values would be 1% higher.
Car_man
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Subaru's current lease money factor and residual value for a 36 month lease of a base 2010 Outback 2.5i with 15,000 miles per year are .00120 and 52%, respectively.
Subaru does not have any 2011 models out yet, but I suspect that the '11s will begin to arrive at dealers fairly soon. I believe that it has officially announced pricing for the '11 Outback, which is almost identical to the '10 model.
Given the fact that Subaru has virtually no incentives on the 2010 Outback right now, it couldn't hurt to wait and see if it introduces any offers to help clear out old inventory when the 2011 models begin to arrive at dealers.
Car_man
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Thanks again!
I'm considering leasing and am not sure how to tell if it's a good deal. I initially negotiated a 2.5 ltd with a few extras for $27200 including destination not including 6% sales tax (Sticker price $29154 based on truecar.com). I inquired about lease options and was told the following:
42 month 12k miles a year $1500.00 total out of pocket $425.00 a month.
42 month 10k miles a year $1500.00 total out of pocket $418.00 a month.
Are these good deals considering the sales price I negotiated? Do I need additional information to make that assessment?
Thanks for helping a newbie.
I am no expert but I have found that its best not to absolutely have your mind on 1 car to buy. Look around for deals you can find. Subarus are fantastic and I love them but I went to lease a V6 Limted and it was more expensive to lease than a BMW (3 series). Subaru sometimes takes advantage of our loyalty.
I ended up with a fully loaded Maxima (many more features than the outback) for about $70 less than the outback.
Look around, outbacks are fantastic but the 2011s are coming out in July so they should give you better deals.
Car_man
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Car_man
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2010 Forester lessee
I am currently leasing the same one 2007 model - my deal was - $0 down, 36m, 12k miles for $281/month - would I be able to get the same deal?
Thank you!
Does anyone know residual value and money factor for 2011 outback 2.5 premium
auto trans. for 36m lease 10k/year?
Thank you much!
PS Has anyone leased a 2010, and gotten a break vs. a 2011? I'm trying to figure out which would be a better deal, and wondering what (if anything) they are taking off the prices on the 2010 to clear them out.
1) more likely you won't have to replace tires / brakes
2) likely covered by the warranty the entire time you have the car
3) you don't have the pay registration for entire 4th year even though you'll only have it for half the year
4) If you're not going to the keep the car, but might keep (buy out of lease) your next car, you'll start paying down the depreciation of your next car sooner (the car that you may eventually own).
Please help me with the MF for July ( Chase bank ) for 12k and 10k miles - 36m
The RV the dealer gave me is 58% - it seems kind oh high.
Thank you!
Car_man
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Thanks for any input!
377/month (41 payments) + $1789 down payment.
I am a returning customer in Ohio. Currently, I am still leasing a Subaru Legacy 2009 at a much better price.
Although I have tried to find out, at this point I was not told the value of the car. However, it is supposed to be at the value that was "negotiated" for Costco customers.
Please, could you advise?
Car_man
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Car_man
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Chase's August buy rate lease money factor and residual value for a 36 month lease of a 2011 Subaru Outback 3.5R Limited with 10,000 miles per year are .00190 and 58%, respectively.
The numbers for an otherwise identical 39 month lease are .00195 and 56%.
Car_man
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I'm in New Jersey and looking at the above vehicle, information I have is sticker $33009, invoice $30575, lease based on $30675. September money factor is .00205, residual 54%, 36 month/12k miles. $1126 down includes taxes, title and fees, AND 1st month lease payment. All for $512/month.
Good deal or not? Have I been provided with accurate information from the dealer? Thx in advance.
Forester has higher residuals and lower prices if you like those.
If you divide that $1126 by 36 months, and add it to the price, your total monthly is: $543.
That sounds very high, especially when considering I got two quotes (different dealers) on a $34,000 MSRP Honda CrossTour for zero money down, 12k/year, 36 months, at $399 & $410 per month.
I currently drive a Subaru Tribeca and my lease is up next month. I was only at one Subaru dealer to talk about an Outback lease. The dealer only gave me ball park numbers, and at the time, I was looking at the 6 cyl limited outback, and the number was in the high $400's.
-Mike
Leases are high now, which is why I'm considering a purchase. The Outback very close in size to the Tribeca, better mileage, very comfortable.....I can live in it for 8-10 years.
I need the current MF and residual for a 2010 Outback 2.5 Premium at 36 months, 15,000 miles per year. Thanks.
Car_man
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Chase's September lease money factor and residual value for a 36 month lease of a 2010 Outback 2.5 Premium with 15,000 miles per year are .00075 and 49%, respectively.
Car_man
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