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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    You don't have to pull the engine, but you definitely have to jack it and the transmission up in order to pull the oil pan out. It's a real pain in the butt. The pan sits over a part of the frame with two deeper oil wells front and back of the frame bar. You absolutely cannot get it out without raising the engine. All the 8 cylinder F-series trucks from that time period are designed that way, and evidently Ford spec'd cheap metal in their oil pans. :mad:

    I have a '95 F-150 w/ a 5.0L, the pan started to leak. The paint blistered on the pan and it was all rusty underneath. The rusty metal was actually porous and the oil was started to leak pretty bad. I found it would be around $500-$600 to replace a $45 oil pan. :cry: I drained the oil, degreased the pan, and the scoured it with a wire wheel mounted on a drill to take off the rust. I put a liberal coating of JB-Weld on the pan the pan, let it set up, then primed and painted it too. I let it sit for a day to fully cure, before I put oil back in. It's been two years, and my patch is still holding. Still find an occaisional drop of oil on the driveway, but at the time I did the patch it was losing about a pint a day just sitting parked.

    If you do go for the pan replacement, you may as well change out the oil pump and the screen while they're doing it. The extra labor and parts are cheap compared to jacking the engine.
  • guitarjimguitarjim Member Posts: 1
    I just traded a perfect 97 f-150 lariat 4x4 extended cab for an 04 same configuration with 11k miles and have had it back to the dealer for severe vibration in the front end 4 times. The dealer has replaced the front brake calipers, rack and pinion assembly, brake rotors, and was investigating the vacuum system for possible problems with the 4x4 system when they found the parking brake system in the rear wheels had been partially engaging by itself, sometimes enough to cause the violent shaking, and other times just enough to make the truck feel sluggish and cause gas mileage to plummet to about 12 mpg. I feel this has been the problem all along, but I won't know until I've put some miles on it to see if it really is fixed. I've got my fingers crossed, otherwise this is a great truck, and I look forward to getting just as many satisfactory miles out of it as I got from my 97. Anyone out there who has a violent intermittent shaking, and thinks their truck doesn't have the power it should, coupled with reduced gas mileage, should have their dealer check the emergency/parking brake system. I think this may have fixed my problem. I will report back after a few hundred more miles.
  • jparksjparks Member Posts: 1
    at 39000 miles lost high pressure oil pump causing loss of fuel flow-no parts immediately available-stuck on road-costs $1000 or more due to loss of vehicle

    second problem with the f350, first problem was loss of alternator without any manufacturer parts or after market parts available-without vehicle for 4 days.
  • vibesoffordvibesofford Member Posts: 3
    Got the VIBES? Seventeen miles and 1 day old, my 2004 F150 was being taken back to the dealer. First day vibrations, "its from being tied down on the transport truck, it's work out". Wheels rotated and Balanced, truck the three days. Week two, second trip to dealer 45 miles away, with stalling and vibration is still there: the tires needed rotating and balancing a second tine, and they can't fix the stalling because Ford has no fix at this time, truck there 3 days. Trip three: to a different dealer, 54 miles away one week later, they never put the truck in the shop, because of bulletins form Ford, there is no fix at this time for stalling, and vibration is a charteristic of the vehicle. Trip four, same dealer 54 miles away, one week later, never put in the shop, same reasons, bulletins state no fix at this time and the truck is left on the lot for another 8 hour day, with no repair orders written. Trip 5 to a local dealer, dealer re-progarms the ecu as told not to by Ford, the stalling quits, but a miss at idle now, no fix available still, and the wheels rotated and balanced 4th time, no fix on vibration, 3 days at dealer. Calls to Ford assistance, Truck back to local dealer, for vibration and brake vibration, Balance and rotate the wheels, no repair to Brakes, no repairs to miss at idle, truck in shop for 2 days. Call to ford assistance center, Tires replaced and wheels rotated and balance, 8 hours at dealer, no fix, Call to Ford Assistance, Truck back at dealer, wheels rotated and balanced, no fix, 8 hours at shop. Call to Ford Assistance, Truck taken in for engineer to fix, tires rotated and balanced, dampeners installed on bed and chassis, no repair for idle problem, no repair on brakes, and its all charateristics of the vehicle. Truck to Arbitration on Friday Sept 9, 2005, almost one Year from purchase and 20,000 miles, Ford refused to fix, repurchase, or replace truck so for, let the Arbitrators decide. I'll update you when we know.....
  • jjrjj89jjrjj89 Member Posts: 7
    I've heard guys on these sites talk about using programmers (chips) to improve performance and gas mileage. Some say they're getting 5 more mpg. I'm skeptical. The best I could muster is 15.1 on the highway (70 mph), with the old exhaust. With the new Gibson, I'm up about a mile per gallon. It's gonna take a long time to recover the 400+ I've put out. My dad bought an 05 F-150 Crew just like mine and he's getting 19.8, at 70, with the air on. (stock exhaust and 3.73, while I have the 3.55) I don't get it and am PO'ed with the gallon of gas sitting at 3.19/gal. Haven't presented this to the dealership, yet, but am considering that move. Anybody out there with programmer experience or having the same demoralizing highway problems as I? What did you do?
  • fx4invafx4inva Member Posts: 2
    i was wondering if y'all could help me. i have a 2004 regular cab FX4. thats right a 04 regular cab FX4. i have a vibration when i first take off no mater how hard the accelorater is pushed and when traveling 25-30 mph no matter if accelerating, braking, or just idiling along at that speed. hell, you could probably roll the truck down a hill in nuetral and it would probaby vibrate at 25 mph. i have had it back at the dealer total of 4 times now, in-fact i just got back from geting it tonight. they have replaced the driveshaft, u-joint at rear end, adjusted the pinion angle, and they also told me they can't fix it. the truck has 10,500 miles. it is regular cab fx4 with i have found it is very rare at least in southeastern virginia. i have a feeling the problem is mostly because the back end is so much higher than the front. i live on a farm, so as you can guess the truck has seen its share of off road. i am not talking about rock climbing or mud bogging, i am just talking about average off roading to get through fields. i have not pulled anything with it or have i loaded the truck down. the most i have put on it is about 800 pounds. this is the only problem i have had with it. every other aspect of this truck works perfectly, i wouldn't trade it for anything. i just need to get this vibration fixed. so if any of yall have had the same problems please let me know.
    thanks
  • bshoultsbshoults Member Posts: 2
    my 86 ford f 250 7.3 has a tight radiator hose after driving for a few miles,and i noticed a small amount of tiny bubbles in the radiator along with a oily residue..any thoughts on where it may be comming from?
  • mghmgh Member Posts: 43
    I have the same problem but I have realized that when I fill my tank is never the same; I can always squeeze an extra 3 to 5 gallons of fuel. It looks like the gas tank has a big neck and it can hold more fuel than the 27 gallons that is on my window sticker specs, so I can't really tell what is the fuel consumption.

    I have the XLT extended cab with the 5.4 engine and to be honest it is a piece of crap. We have 300 HP but it feels like 200 HP

    Pls send me info on the Gibson system. Is it a double exhaust?Where can I buy it? I don't know anything about the chip but the only thing I know is that you may void your warranty.

    Thanks,

    MG
  • uticalluticall Member Posts: 1
    I had that problemin my last truck 2003 lariet 4x4 and it was tires .
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    Cracked head/bad head gasket and or intake manifold gasket...................

    White smoke out of tailpipe????????

    Not good......................
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    have a tech sniff the radiator neck with an exhaust gas analyzer. if it lights up, you are off the road until the head gasket or whatever is fixed. at least you have caught this early enough so the engine probably hasn't been wrecked.
  • dan58dan58 Member Posts: 3
    I am new to this and to diesels.I tried to let the water out of my 93 7.3 turbo F350 and when I turned the valve on the bottom of the filter I got nothing. No fuel and no water. Is this normel or do I have a problem? Thank you for any help you can give. Dan
  • bshoultsbshoults Member Posts: 2
    SEEMS TO BURN CLEAN OUT THE PIPE AFTER WARM UP,BUT NO WHITE SMOKE,USES ABOUT A QUART OF COOLANT TO 50 MILES. RADIATOR HAS DIESEL ODER.HOW DO YOU DETERMINE WHICH BANK IT IS COMING FROM.?
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    don't know, but think compression checks of the cylinders would show which bank most likely has the leak. problem with that thinking is, you have two identical gaskets with the same installation techniques installed... and you only want to replace the one that failed right now? do 'em both and don't have the other one fail is the way I'd think.

    of course, I grew up a broadcast brat, and if a module in a quad videotape failed, they shotgunned out all the similar parts... ie, if a bypass capacitor opened up, and you lost $8000 in revenue in this newscast from not getting the commercials on, how ya gonna explain the next capacitor going out next month when you had the chance to replace all of those parts at once. you lose the spots, you have to make them up, and that costs you the time spots for a second bunch. way far cheaper in your time and pain to do both head gaskets, check both heads out... you will save some labor from tearing it all down to get there, retiming the engine, and putting all the bolt-ons back on after doing the job.
  • jjrjj89jjrjj89 Member Posts: 7
    MG,
    Thanks for the info on the gas tank neck. Never thought about that. Though the gas gauge always seems to read full when I fill it. It's pretty consistent at the mileage that I've described. With the Gibson, I've improved about a mile per gallon. But, like I said, it's going to take some time to recover the cost of the exhaust. I'd only get it if you plan on keeping the truck for a lot of years. I'm sorry to hear that you're not happy with it. I try to keep in mind that my trucks 300 hp is not geared to take off like my mustang GT was. But, I've never had any problems hauling around the 5-6 thousand lb. trailer that I often used.
    The Gibson exhaust, I got on-line from an outfit in Conneticut. Wish I could remember the name. custometrucks.com? i got the single pipe ($400). I like it, but it's not going to produce a big crack when you hit the accelerator. If you want more of that then go to the daul exhaust. Took four days to receive in NW Pennsylvania. Much nicer thant the original system. I would recommend the stainless. Again, if you're keeping the truck for a few years.
  • jjrjj89jjrjj89 Member Posts: 7
    MG
    Only paid $300 for the exhaust. I added some other things that put my bill up to around $400. Sorry.
  • horizonpoolshorizonpools Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for taking to time to write back.
    As I recently realized the oil pan is only the beginning of my problems. I purchased the truck from the village DPW and though it was a 92 it only has 47K miles on it.

    When I went to pick it up, the truck wouldn't start, and determined it was the started. What a chore, the bolts were rustier and we had to cut the bolts.

    Of course after we solved that problem we drove it around the block only to realize the transmission cooler line is leaking.

    The oil pan seems like a big job, but my real concern is that I or someone else will have a real hard time taking the old bolts off, and lord only know what that will lead to.

    Thanks again.

    JT
  • jacopsajjacopsaj Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 94 f150 :lemon: and have had nothing but problems. Now i'm having what seems to be a fuel pump problem. It runs great in town, but when I get it about 35-40 miles out on the highway, the check engine light comes on for a few seconds, then goes off. That's when the problems start. It starts stuttering and dying like its not getting any, or enough, gas. I slam on the gas, and everything works again for about 30-45 seconds then the cycle starts over again, almost like clock work. Normally I would say it was the fuel pump getting hot and not wanting to work. But the thing is I have two tanks and two fuel pumps (one in each of course). It doesn't matter what tank is selected, the exact same problem occurs. I have changed the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator, but no better. Does anyone have any ideas? I would greatly appreciate any help I could get. Thanks.
  • mghmgh Member Posts: 43
    This is a typical symptom of the Oxygen sensor failure. Buy the original equipment from Motorcraft and reset the engine codes in the truck. You may want to check the codes first just to make sure this is the problem.

    Good luck!
  • threefootthreefoot Member Posts: 3
    I am new to this message board and appologize if this is not the correct forum but I need help please.

    I just started experiencing acceleration problems with my 2003 F250 SD 6.0 Diesel. I am not sure if it is a TURBO problem, Transmission problem or some type of electrical module etc. It does not happen all the time though. The symptom is that when I for example go to pass someone the RPM's increase but there is NO power. The speed of the vehicle SLOWLY increases. Does not seem like it is down shifting or that the TURBO is not engaging. Anyone hear of or experience similar problems? Vehicle has 39,000 miles. I am also NEW to Diesels.

    Note: Really noticed it yesterday morning. However Yesterday afternoon when leaving work it operated just fine. Plenty of power. Again this morning, NO power and same problem experienced.
  • jdnhjdnh Member Posts: 1
    I have a experienced the exact same scenario with my hubs.
    In addition they are poorly marked and the locked/auto position indicators
    are not visible.

    Hub is now making clicking noise while in auto position.

    I have a 2001 F350 SD crew.

    have you had any progress with FORD?

    Are there after market hubs available an if so where and how much?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    If engine rpm increases but there is no matching increase in forward speed it would seem to indicate a transmission problem, possibly a slipping clutch or torque converter.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Going to manual, rather than auto, hubs keeps things simple and reliable.

    Warn F350 SD Hubs

    image
  • ruffroadruffroad Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2003 6litre and I have noticed the same power problem since about 65K and dealer is of no help to me. What I have found out is that I'll warm the thing up and it will be up to temparature and it will still have no power-the trick is to turn off ignition and restart vehicle and you have all your power back. It doesn't fix the issue but it helps. I think it is a faulty sensor with the turbo pressure or something-sticking at cold startup and doesn't follow temparature unless it's reset. I haven't had time to take it to the dealer and show them this since I found a temp fix and it doesn't show up a fault with the computer. Some expert out there on turbos? Mapping sensor or something?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I have a 2003 6litre and I have noticed the same power problem...........

    If there's a lack of power and the engine bogs down it could well be related to your turbo's blow-off valve, among other things of course.

    However, in threefoot's case, engine speed increases but there's no corresponding increase in speed or power, indicating that the transmission isn't translating that speed increase into anything useful.

    Sounds like yours is a different problem, though no less annoying! ;)
  • ruffroadruffroad Member Posts: 4
    I have recently aquired a 2002 F-350 superduty CC LB 5.4L. 165,000km 4x4
    I have an exhaust leak at the rear of both manifolds- bad studs or whatever- needs to be remedied.
    Now yes this is under powered unit as it is but for what I need for it is fine (besides my '03 f250 work diesel is problematic enough with warranty) but I still could use a power boost. What is the ideal exhaust setup for this thing now that I need to work it anyway? I do not know if my manifolds are cracked and junk but for possible alternatives I've been looking at aftermarket headers and I see they have them for 5.4L all over the place for excursions f-150,250 etc but having difficulties sourcing them for 2002 f-350s.

    My question is-what is the ideal setup for this or at least adequate?
    - Will the F250 header setup fit a 350 with no serious mods? -(remember 4x4)
    If so, do I do headers with the Y pipe or pitch it and run dual to the back- with just the catalytic converter-no muffler. What could I expect with fuel economy? Will the hp increase by 10-15% as headers normally go? -does it affect sensors/ screw up computer etc?
    -Should I just keep the stock setup and as I know I could spend 500$ and reprogram the computer altogether but I ain't loaded.

    Do they make aftermarket K&N air intake filters for these as well- trouble finding those too (small town syndrome) any problems with computer/sensors also?
  • ruffroadruffroad Member Posts: 4
    annoying is right however my symptoms seem similar in the sense that the engine does rev up not necessarily bogs down (if you mean like flooding or something)--Its like it almost has not enough air or something. It is slow shifting in reference to the tranny but I figure it's because it take so long to hit the shift limit or whatever. Then it all goes normal with a reset. Could this still be the the blow off valve as a possibility? Is there any other sensors that I could as the dealer to look into as a possibilty along with the blowoff valve?

    Thanks
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The good thing about your problem is that it's repeatable, and that restarting clears it, which should make it easy to analyse what's happening while it happens. At this stage I'd be inclined to let a reputable dealer with a good diesel specialist check it out first before making suggestions.
  • threefootthreefoot Member Posts: 3
    I agree, it sounds like your symptoms are very similar. I took the truck out this afternoon at lunch time ... ran great. No problems. Seems to coorespond somehow with either cooler engine/air temps or perhaps more moisture in air in the morning or something. I'm no mechanic but seems electronic.
  • jacopsajjacopsaj Member Posts: 2
    Good call mgh. It was the O2 sensor. Unfortunately I did replace the fuel pump before I read your reply to my post. So I guess I won't have to replace that for a while. Funny how a $40 problem turned into over $300 to fix. But at least I know my fuel system in and out. Thanks a lot for the help.
  • deerenutdeerenut Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone have any information on a possible TSB for a failure of the o-rings on the high pressure side of the external oil pump on the 7.3L powerstrokes? The company I work for has two 2003 f-350's. One is a super cab and the other is a crew cab, both purchased the same time. The crew cab started leaking quite a bit of oil this last weekend, went into the shop on Tuesday and we were told that the o-ring had failed. After a $ 100.00 deductible on the engine warranty, it is back on the road. A friend of mine told me he thought that there was a TSB out on this as it is a common problem. The supercab has had a small leak in about the same area, and we don't want to waste another $ 100.00 plus be without a truck for a day. Any information would be appreciated
  • ruby4ruby4 Member Posts: 1
    had similar problem with 2004 f150. dealership replaced spline shaft coupling which was not sliding smoothly which resolved the problem.
  • legarretalegarreta Member Posts: 2
    I OWN A 1999 FORD F15O AND IT NOW HAS 120.000 MILES ON IT AND I HAVE NOT HAD ANY PROBLEM WITH MY TRUCK WHAT SO EVER, DRIVE IT EVERYWHERE, ITS MY DAILY DRIVER VERY HAPPY WITH IT, NO PROBLEMS AT ALL EVERYTHING WORKS PERFECTLY !!!!!! :)
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I'm glad for you. I've got a '93 F150 that runs perfectly and has never had anything other than regular maintenance items. However, there's NO WAY I'll purchase a current F150 until Ford turns things around.
  • dbosch8dbosch8 Member Posts: 1
    I too am having the same exact problem. I just changed my fuel filter and this hasn't helped, I also have changed the 2 oxogen sensors, and this didn't help. The EEC code
    reads out and refers to a fuel pump. But there are 2 tanks and 2 fuel pumps and the problem happens wether I use either tank. I would like to get this fixed as well. Any help would be appreciated. THANKS! :confuse:
  • gjohnsongjohnson Member Posts: 1
    I had replaced both tanks with new fuel pumps. But the fuel runs from the side tank right into the back. It seem to me that the engine dose not get enough gas. Now Ihave a full tank in the back and none in the side tank. I need help baddly. The truck is 1994 with only 85730 actaule miles. this should not be happening to this truck this soon.
  • mghmgh Member Posts: 43
    If you have done all of the above check your catalytic converter but in my professional opinion your mass air flow sensor is going bad. Have you cleaned your fuel injectors and replaced your fuel filter?

    Advice:
    Stop throwing your good money down the drain replacing parts, take the truck to the dealer and have them read the codes with a reliable computer they will even flash your computer with the latest upgrades at your request for free. Don't forget to ask to check all recalls on your truck while is there.

    Good luck,
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    One of your fuel pumps has a bad check valve, (or somebody sold you the wrong pumps). When gas is pumped to the engine, what isn't used is pumped back to the gas tanks. If your check valve has failed, the gas doesn't go back to the proper tank, or the front tank just pumps into the rear or vice versa, and could starve the engine too. The Hazard the tank could overflow and cause a fire. Ford had a recall for this problem, but I don't think '94 models were included.

    The check valve system is built into the fuel pump. it's called a "shuttle valve," When the shuttle valve fails on one pump, it lets the other tank fill it up, when it's supposed to be checked. The shuttle valve is in the in tank fuel pump (FDM - fuel delivery module) for 90 to 96, according to my Haynes manual. Haynes says the damaged valve can't be repaired. You need to replace the whole fdm drop in unit it comes as one piece with everything.

    When the fuel is cross flowing to the other fuel tank in your case to the front tank then the FDM shuttle valve is stuck open. Get a Haynes manual, it has step by step instructions. I did a search and found: "If you have a pump in each tank the problem is with the tank that is being filled while switched to the other one. If you are running on the rear tank and the front tank is being filled the problem is with the check valve in the front tank (stuck open). Replace the front pump unit. If the rear tank is being filled while running on the front tank, replace the rear pump unit." So it sounds like your rear check valve is the problem.
  • jroach12jroach12 Member Posts: 1
    I have the vibes as well on my 2004 XLT F150. I now have about 23,000 miles on it and several trips to the dealer. Each time the shop foreman thinks it is tires until I remind him that it doesn't vibrate when you let off the gas and coast. It only does it around 48-58 under load. Let me know how you come out on yours. I think Ford engineers know what is wrong but aren't saying so they don't have to spend a lot of money on repairs. Maybe we should get an attorney involved and do a class action lawsuit!

    Please keep me posted on your outcome. Thanks! Jack
  • vibesoffordvibesofford Member Posts: 3
    At this point, the jury is still out on this one, as usual. A third party was called in to inspect the vehicle, they were not informed of the vehiles repair attempts, and their findings where that it's most likely tires...LOL.... This is after the orginal tires were rotated and balanced 5 times by an authorized Ford Dealership, a complete set of tires and wheels from a 2005 f150 were put on my vehicle for 2 days testing, and a complete set of new tires was installed by Ford at no cost. The third party has no clue as to the body damper attemps, or the cab dampener attemps either. So, now we wait for Ford to give their opion to the third party inspection, before the ruling is made. Meanwhile, we're checking into what the attorney general's office will need in case Ford viggles out of this one also..... Keep in touch.... by the way, see message # 1461, this guy has pretty much hit the nail on the head.... Vibes of Ford
  • golf68golf68 Member Posts: 1
    I have a real lack of power and accerleration with my truck. I previously owned a 2001 F-150 which was considerably faster and general overall performance was better. I had it in at the ford dealership several times they can't find anything wrong with it other than cleaning the carbon out of the fuel system, they also reprogramed the computer to the current up to date specs. It now seams to be slower than before. 40 more HP than 2001, you would expect it to be faster. I've considered getting a Hyperchip to increase performace will this work?
  • buyersrightsbuyersrights Member Posts: 1
    stalling; acceleration problems; transmission problems; if you're in California and have any of these issues please let me know, your input may be able to help others with same problems. thanks. :lemon:
  • milkdudmilkdud Member Posts: 1
    When I have my AC on and put it in 4WD my AC kicks off and goes to defrost.It does the same in the winter when the heat is on. Also when I just have it in 4WD with nothing else on , it keeps kicking out of 4WD. Plus when I turn the switch on for the 4WD you can hear it click, but does not go into 4WD. Does anyone have any ideas on what could be the problem?
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Milkdud,
    Sounds like you've got a Ford with a vaccuum leak. Vaccuum is used to pull in the shift on the fly front hubs and it's also used to control the position of the ventilation system. When you lose vaccuum the ventilation goes to the default position - defrost, and the 4x4 won't stay engaged.

    Start schecking all the vaccuum lines and fittings. Look for cracked or brittle vaccuum hose(s), but also check all the little plastic vaccuum fittings - the connectors and the "T's" The leak could be anywhere, but I'd probably start looking down around the automatic hubs. There's a couple of tricky placed where vaccuum lines go through the firewall that can crack but are hard to see.
    .
  • ddmknddmkn Member Posts: 2
    How did you fix this? I have the same problem and then last night it just died. I got it to restart today but still uneasy about this...HELP!!
  • ddmknddmkn Member Posts: 2
    My truck runs great during the day. full AC on and radio going and the only problem I have is the windshield wipers just start. You have to fully turn them on and then back off againg to get them to stop. BUT at night when I have the lights on all electric gadgets strat to fade and then come back on. Last night it finally left my wife stranded. has anyone else had this problem? HELP~!!!!!
  • skrypekskrypek Member Posts: 2
    Just returned home from a trip, experiencing problem indicated crossing any road irregulaity with vibration which sounds like a bad bearing in froant end. Checking free wheeling hubs, one was tight to turn, Would that be an indication that it is possibly bad? Will next try hubs individually. Skrypek
  • skrypekskrypek Member Posts: 2
    Awhile back I had the same problem with loss of power and torgue pulling. The waste gate sensor in the turbo was replaced by the dealer. After which the diesel ran fine. skrypek
  • jdfrmkyjdfrmky Member Posts: 15
    I've a 2004 F 150 Crew Cab,5.4 motor,32k miles.This is my first fullsize truck.The ride and handling seem a little less than when I bought it.I'm sure part of that is from the wear in the tires and maybe the shocks weakening.Driveability is not as good as new,sort of like driving a carbed motor,surges power not right there.
    I just cruise in this vehicle and 220 mi a wk to work and back.
    I know it is just a truck though.
    thank you
  • dianahdianah Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1989 F250 (bought used over a year ago). I only occasionally drive it, and for the last few months I've had to charge the battery each time the night before if I wanted to use it the next day. It would not even start a couple days later after a charge unless I charged it again first. Then it got to the place that it wouldn't charge up anymore at all. It wouldn't crank - nothing but the sound of the key going "click". I had the alternator checked out, and it only needed new bushings. But, it still wouldn't start. So, I bought a new battery even though the current battery was good, according to the parts store. When I attached the second battery cable of the new battery something up near the dipstick starting making an electrical pulsing sound, without the key in the ignition. The truck immediately started up, though. After a few minutes this zzzz zzzz sound stopped. The next day the truck won't start again. Any suggestions or help would be so appreciated!
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