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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • markanagmarkanag Member Posts: 5
    I have been trying to remove the startermotor from my 92' f250 diesel. Is there a bolt on the top side? And if ther is, how do you get to it to remove it? I have replaced starters before but this one has got me stumped.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    You've got a power drain/short circuit somewhere in your truck. It's sucking down the battery over time and then pretty soon you don't have enough juice to start the truck. You're going to have to do some detective work to find it. Odds are, the culprit that's killing your battery is the relay or whatever is making the zz zzz zzz sound.

    Basically, you're going to have to start pulling fuses one by one and test to see whether current is flowing through that circuit even with the key off. (There are fuses both under the dashboard, and in a box near the firewall in the engine compartment, you'll need to check both.) You can do this with a current meter, or an electrical test lamp. Pull out fuse and put the probes from the tester across the two fuse terminals - if there's current flowing, the test lamp will light, or the ammeter will show a current reading. Some circuits, like the truck's engine computer always have a small current draw, but it's not going to kill a battery over night. The bad circuit will most likely make the lamp light up pretty brightly or show an amp or more of current draw on the meter. Check all the fuses. If you want proof that you've found the bad cicuit, leave the fuse out that has the current draw, and see if your truck starts the next day.

    Once you find the circuit that's got the excessive drain, you've still gotta figure out what's actually causing it. The owner's manual usually has a map of the fuses and tells you what each one controls. Finding the offender may not be easy, but at least you're now looking in the right spot. Happy Hunting.
  • dianahdianah Member Posts: 3
    wpalkowski, thank you so much. I've been so busy this morning, I just now had time to read your reply. I will definitely try what you suggested. I didn't get an owner's manual with the truck, but I'm going to try and find one. I wanted one anyway. Thanks again!

    Diana
  • lizzierrlizzierr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 F150, 5L manual w/OD, with 147K miles. Have developed several problems but the worst is that about half the time, when I start up, the engine revs up (no tach so I don't know how much). I can shift, awkwardly, but the motor just stays revved up, for up to 5-6 minutes. Does anyone have any suggestions? I can't afford a big mechanic's bill so I'm kinda stuck trying to figure this out.
  • matilda54matilda54 Member Posts: 1
    I also have a Ford F-150 Crew Cab (4x4) with 12,000 miles on it. About 4 months ago an intermittent vibration started at around 40-45MPH. it is worse when towing a trailer. It is really bad after the truck sits for a few days without driving it. I too thought I was getting a flat when I first felt it. After about 20 minutes of driving, it goes away but while it is doing it, it is pretty violent. My wife is afraid to ride in it. I have had it to the dealer twice. The first time they rebalanced and rotated the tires which did nothing. Now they tell me they don't know what it is and they have had no other complaints. I went to another dealer and got the same story. I find it interesting that all these people are experiencing this problem and the dealers seem to know nothing about it.
  • goodrichgoodrich Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE AN '05 SUPER CAB WITH THE 5.4 ENGINE THAT SHAKES FROM ABOUT 1500 TO 2000 RPM. I DOES IT WHEN I SPEED IT UP TO THAT RANGE WHEN IN NEUTRAL AND IT SHUDDERS LIKE AN OLD WORN OUT TRUCK WHEN PULLING A SMALL TRAILER AND ACCELERATING THRU THAT RANGE. THE DEALER SAYS THEY ALL DO THAT BUT IT MIGHT GET BETTER AFTER IT HAS 2000 MILES ON IT. I HAD A 5.4 IN MY '02 THAT WAS SMOOTH AS SILK - AND I TRADED IN - WHAT A SHAME.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    ...........vibration started at around 40-45MPH. it is worse when towing a trailer. It is really bad after the truck sits for a few days without driving it. I too thought I was getting a flat when I first felt it. After about 20 minutes of driving, it goes away but while it is doing it, it is pretty violent.

    Unlike most of the other vibration problems here, yours really does seem like it's being caused by the tires. Your symptoms are those of 'flat spotting', basically the tire flattens out at the bottom while sitting for some time. When you drive it gradually regains its original shape. Rotating and balancing won't help, you need to change tires to fix the problem.
  • sanyosanyo Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2005 Ford F-150 Lariat 5.4L V8. I have not been able to find a locking gas cap for it. I was told Ford does not make one for this truck. Can anyone help on how I can get a locking gas cap?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Stant lists a locking cap for the '05 5.4 F150, it's part number 10510. Should be available almost anywhere, but you should probably bear the following in mind:

    "Stant Responds to Locking Fuel Cap Shortage

    Connersville, IN…..In light of soaring fuel prices the past few weeks, it should come as no surprise that orders for locking fuel caps are running at several times normal volume. The effect of increased demand vs. available supply is being felt at Stant Mfg. Inc., the world’s leading producer of locking and other closure caps. “All Stant facilities are working 24/7 at maximum capacity to produce locking caps to meet this unprecedented demand”, said Gordon Hoffman, Director of Marketing for Stant Corporation. “We expect to be back to normal delivery schedules within a few weeks. In the meantime we appreciate our customers’ understanding and patience as we get caught up.”
  • ashleylaneashleylane Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 F350 and I got in it last night and it won't start. Batteries are strong and engine turns over. There is a gray box to the right of the steering column that makes a clicking noise. I listened to another truck of the same year and it didn't do it. Help!
  • rtfordmanrtfordman Member Posts: 3
    I am having a bad miss in my 1997 F-150 4.6 Motor when accelerating. I have changed coil , spark plugs, Checked Vaccum Hoses, Fuel Filter, Plug wires. Anyone have any idea what might be cuasing this miss?
  • rtfordmanrtfordman Member Posts: 3
    My 1997 Ford f-150 4.6 has a bad miss in the engine when under a load, when I sit and idle it runs fine. I have changed the spark plugs. plug wires, coils, fuel filter, one fuel injector ... I had it ran on the computer and no codes come up. Does anyone have any other suggestions. I actually did not change the spark plugs myself a local business in my area did that.
  • tyresmokertyresmoker Member Posts: 266
    I have an '05 S/C 4x4 with limited slip. When you accelerate from a complete stop, you hear a distinct "clunk" coming from the rear end. Sometimes it is loud, sometimes you can hardly hear it, which tells me that it is not "normal". ..Anyone else experience this?
  • warriorcoachwarriorcoach Member Posts: 17
    I also have an 05 supercrew 4x4 and I get the clunk, but only when taking off from a stop or nearly stopped. I took it in to the dealership and they don't think it is a transmission problem. No codes poped up right away. Taking it in on the 10th for a more thorough diagnostics check.
  • junityjunity Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Ford F-250 4wd with manual locking hubs in the front. I was movin it into my buddies driveway to replace the wheel bearing and the entire wheel came completely of my truck. My problem now is I don't know how the damn thing came apart to repair. Someone please tell me how that damn hub is held on the spline. and how do I get the inner wheel bearing off. oh yeah it was the right side that came off.

    Thanks. :cry:
  • tyresmokertyresmoker Member Posts: 266
    Please keep me posted on what they find...Also, has anyone noticed what sounds like a lifter (I know there are no lifters) "ticking" at idle. When I am in the truck with the radio off there is a very distinct metallic "tick" coming from the right front of the truck....
  • tyresmokertyresmoker Member Posts: 266
    Have you tried flatratetech.com?
  • atvlouisatvlouis Member Posts: 3
    F150 ,1990 v8 320 5 liter, start and running like new but when pulling away no get up and good or going up hill. when i put the pedal to the floor it doesn't shift into over drive. could this be a vacuum issue . only codes i get are the o2 sensor is gone (it is new the 3 new one)and egr is not opening. trucks is getting 17 mph city. like to have the pick up other f150 have.
  • airbornevetairbornevet Member Posts: 1
    Anyone had the problem with a whistle noise above 55 mph on 2005 Supercrew?
    I have had my truck about 3 months and cannot find the problem. At 70 mph it will drive you crazy. Below 55 nice and quiet. Any help would sure be appreciated.
  • kenv1kenv1 Member Posts: 1
    did you get an answer to your post? Both of my locks have quit too. I'd be interested to hear of any advice you received. Thanks
  • audiobobaudiobob Member Posts: 2
    My friend has a ford F-250 superduty truck that has been sitting a couple weeks.The other day got in and used the truck for a few minutes and when finished turned off the key and removed key.About 30 minutes go by and we could hear the radio on in the truck.The radio come on all by itself with the key in his pocket.This is really strange.Got in the truck and turned on the ignition and turned off the radio all is OK?for now.If you turn off the ignition without turning off the radio 1st it comes on after a few minutes or sometimes hours.Any hints as to what is wrong...This is a first for me.
  • dcadedcade Member Posts: 1
    I am trying to replace a bad front end bearing, but I can't seem to get the 4 wheel drive locking off to get to the spindal and locking nut to access the bearings. Can anyone help?

    Thank you
    Don
  • warriorcoachwarriorcoach Member Posts: 17
    Are you getting the noise when you have the AC on. I have heard a similar noise when it is on but not with it off.
  • rtfordmanrtfordman Member Posts: 3
    I need help, I have changed everything I can think of: spark plugs, wires, coils, fuel injector, air cleaner, fuel, fuel filter, injector cleaner, fuel sensor, no codes come up on computer, check engine light is not on, the miss is only on acceleration, it tends to be worse when the engine is hot, once up to speed miss is gone. Anyone with any ideas....?
  • jimejoejimejoe Member Posts: 1
    Hey Micomark
    I also have a piece of junk 150 with the shakes, been to the dealer SIX times for the same thing. Changed the front rotors, new tires, drive shaft, re balanced tires again, oh yes very important the DAMPNER on the frame trick (ford's patch) didn't work either, and somethings they tried that they couldn't tell me about ??? Also called another ford dealer service department and they told me that there was a TSB on the ring and pinion gears ( laser cut wrong )... Let me know what happened with the court thing. Thanks, I feel your pain ! :lemon:
  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Member Posts: 1,711
    I have the opportunity to purchase my neighbor's truck, which is a '95 F-150 4x4 long-bed, 300 straight-six, E40D transmission. Although the bodywork is a little tired at 115k miles it still runs like it's new and he maintains it by the book without fail. He is trying to let it go for $2800.

    Now my main question is this- Are there any major weaknesses/trouble spots that the 300 six has?
  • audiobobaudiobob Member Posts: 2
    Good torque - low horsepower ( for its displacement ) These motors have served me well .one was an 84 and the other was a 73.both trucks ran over 200,000 mls. with NO internal work ever.
  • archerz12archerz12 Member Posts: 1
    Wow.... Your vibration problem sounds exactly what I went through with my 1991 F150 for 10 years. Just recently one of my vendors told me to give him the truck and he would straighten it out. I was using Uniroyal 31 x 10 x 15 all terrains. Believe it or not, it was the balance. I had 4 different sets of tires on that truck over the years and they all vibrated intermittently, mostly @ 55 to 65 MPH. Several different companies tried to balance them out with the same results. I can't tell you what type of balancer they used, but will find out. I finaly sold old faithfull and bought a new F150 Lariat 4 x 4 and love except for 2 things, gas mileage and the inability to lock out the hubs. Which go hand in hand. :( I called Warn and they claim they have no intention of making a kit for it. $$$$$$$$ I think the 4 x 4 on the fly is a big mistake, especially with fuel @ $3.00 per gallon.
  • atvlouisatvlouis Member Posts: 3
    i am having the same issue with my 90 f150 5.0 L what did you do to fix it?
  • warriorcoachwarriorcoach Member Posts: 17
    Vinny - or anyone else- did the dealer fix your headliner rattle? I have a new 2005 SCREW w/ moonroof and the light hitting the roof is driving my nuts.

    Also have you had any trouble with the rear end? Specifically the slipping and "clunking" noise when taking off from a stop. I believe I read it is related to the clutch assembly in the limited slip differential.
  • greakogreako Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have a 1999 Super cab 7.3 diesel with a 6 speed manual transmission. 57,000 miles. I have had the truck since new and changed the oil and filter every 4,000 miles along with all the reccomended maintaince. I have not had any problems with it at all, but just yesterday the "check engine soon" light came on. Does anyone out there have any suggestions as to what I should look for before taking in to a dealer?
  • rnmparsonsrnmparsons Member Posts: 2
    The other day I took the bed off of the truck, rear pinion seal needs replaced, someone had done a little "extra "wiring" under the frame and several other things needed some attention. I broke out my mig welder and did some weld repairs on the frame and the rear bumper. Before I started welding, I unhook the Positive terminal on the battery. Now nothing works on the truck but the horn. I have power (13.1 volts) from the Battery to the solenoid, but no further. I have never heard of frying a solenoid by welding on the frame, Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • rcgofastrcgofast Member Posts: 8
    I've had most of the above problems. I've now had my truck in the shop for 40 days (8 times) since March. Went to arbitration with the BBB last week and won a repurchase but it is still going to cost me about 7000.00 once it is all said and done. So I really don't come out ahead. I would suggest to anyone reading this to hire an attorney and pursue the Lemon Law in order to recoupe all that you've spent. I haven't accepted the decision yet and considering an attorney to start the lemon law process. If Ford would just treat their customers better instead of giving us the run around we wouldn't be here today talking about F 150's that DO HAVE A PROBLEM.

    Micomark, I'm curious as to what you've done since you've written this and what have the results been?
  • jteleskyjtelesky Member Posts: 13
    Ranger 67: Very similar situation. Same solutions but not solution. Have vibration since purchase. Ford knows they have an engineering problem. Otherwise I like the f-150. My truck has been in the dealership 7 days since my purchase 2 weeks ago. How did you make out with Ford Motor Co. in replacing the truck? Thanks. lemon: ???????
  • winterstickwinterstick Member Posts: 1
    While driving the engine sputters, like its running out of gas - then the engine revs higher than the speed I'm travelling - the overdrive light on the shifter (automatic) is flashing - this can't be good news! Any solutions? or advice?
  • joeyjoejoeyjoe Member Posts: 1
    Is it common to have a fogging problem on a truck as old as 1991? Is that usually only when the heater core is gone?
  • fishrmanfishrman Member Posts: 1
    I have 86 f250 with a 460. When I try to start the truck, I have fuel. Once started the fuel bowl is full in the carb but there is no more fuel flowing from the tank. I tried switching tanks but the same thing happens. Once the fuel is used up in the carb the truck shuts down. I have replace the fuel filter, the fuel vapor seperator, the fuel pump relay switch, the electronic module, and today I'm replacing the selector switch (which broke when removing the lines). What is wrong???? Any advice will be appreciated.
  • 2004lariatowne2004lariatowne Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. It happens after driving for more than 15-20 minutes. The noise is very loud. It stops after I slow down to about 10mph and pull over.
    Just as I slow I hear two clunks and then the noise stops. I have an 2004 Lariat 4x4.
    Please help. My past experience with my dealer has lead me here first. I had to advise them about the PCM update to take care of the lag in acceleration.Then they scratched my fender when I took it in for the first state inspection and I only had 8000 miles on it. I need to find a better dealer.
  • nosmokenosmoke Member Posts: 1
    the ABS lite stays on 2000 F-150 lariat, only 17,000 miles, brakes appear to work fine. Any one else experience this problem? Any suggestions on where to start?
  • 8wildhorses8wildhorses Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Ford F-150, 4WD, 302, Short Bed. I use this truck on my farm and it has oversized tires. It starts and ran fine until yesterday. It has since developed three noticable problems. #1 - No speed ohmeter (It started jumping back and forth now it stays on "0". #2 - At the same time the ABS light came on. #3 - The transmission is now shifting hard. It did this for a short time yesterday and then seemed to be OK. It started again today and has the three problems. I checked the transmission fluid and it is OK. (The only thing I could think of to do.) What could be wrong that would cause all three items to occur at the same time? Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you - Marilyn
  • 88351hauler88351hauler Member Posts: 1
    When I turn on my key my fuel pump does not start and when I jump the pump and have pressure I crank the truck and the fuel injection does not work so my truck will not start. The relay is good. It makes the pump pump if you give it a ground through the tan wire with a green stripe. Can anyone tell me what is telling my truck to not pump fuel or turn on the fuel injection? Where does the tan wire come from? What is my problem? Please help. :cry:
  • electraglideelectraglide Member Posts: 2
    Could be the sensor on the top of rear axle has come unplugged or broken at plug
  • electraglideelectraglide Member Posts: 2
    Sounds ike a fuse gone in circuit .open fuse panel and look at fuse panel diaram and see if all three are onsame circuit.
  • dillondawgdillondawg Member Posts: 18
    I had a 78 with a 351 W dual tanks, similar problem. Had to drop both tanks and clean the fuel pick up screens that were plugged with 25 years of rusty looking goo. Dont know if you've done that yet but I tried everything. How about fuel pump pressure test at cranking speed? Good luck. :D
  • dillondawgdillondawg Member Posts: 18
    Some years ago my Dad and I had a business with three Ford F-500 trucks each with a 300 in. six. Trannies varied from 4 speed or 5 speed all with 2 speed rear ends. Long on torque, don't like to run much over 3,000 rpm where is seems their power curve drops like a rock and with routine maintenance they were reliable. Never had one quit and need a tow home. Put about 200,000 miles on each. Word to the wise however, Ford liked to use plastic or composite timing gears. They lasted about 100,000 miles. A new set of steel gears costs around $50.00 and never gave us a problem after we ditched the plastic. We did have to replace one water pump once. That's about all. :)
  • dillondawgdillondawg Member Posts: 18
    Not sure if you've have a front end shop look at your vehicles but my F-250 started doing almost the exact same things at about 70K. I checked everything myself and things felt tight. Took it to a front end shop and promptly replaced my tie rod ends and the problem went away. Yes the truck steered straight even with the funky tie rod ends but I noticed that once the new ones were installed there was a little less play in the steering wheel. Found out from the previous owner that he had to replace the tie rod ends at 20K and the dealer blamed the premature wear (remember factory OEM tie rod ends are non-greasable) on the oversize 33 X 12.5 X 16.5 aftermarket tires. Well, it was either the monster tires for the snow and plow or figure out a way to make a half-track out of the truck. Just my 2cents worth. Cost me about $150 parts and labor to make my truck happy again. Good luck. Dillondawg.
  • dillondawgdillondawg Member Posts: 18
    Did you replace the distributor cap and rotor? These are likely culprits to the symptoms you describe, especially under load. Good luck. :)
  • dillondawgdillondawg Member Posts: 18
    OUCH BUDDY; I'll break it as gently as I can to you. You have a mess to deal with. That's the bad news. Here's the good news: It's all fix able. I've done the front ends on numerous 4WD F-250s with the Dana 50 which is the axle you have in case anyone asks at the parts store when you go to buy seals and bearings. There could be a lot of hidden damage with the circs you describe, stuff like bent or broken caliper mounts, tie rod end, and ball joints although I doubt the ball joints suffered. You are going to need some special tools to take apart the front hub and these are available at most auto supply stores. They look like huge sockets with splines on the ends. You will also need a snap-ring tool (get the convertible inner / outer version and some I believe 1/4 inch hex wrench or socket to remove the locking hub mechanism. Next buy a Chilton's repair manual and follow the directions to re packing thee front wheel bearings but keep a sharp eye out for collateral damage such as the caliper and mounts. Good luck on this one. FYI, for a truck with no damage and a straight wheel bearing re-pack on a F-250 4WD takes me about 90 minutes a wheel to do it right. A lot of that time is spent cleaning and inspecting the bearings and races. Good luck. ;)
  • dillondawgdillondawg Member Posts: 18
    Sorry, forgot your main question about how the hub is attached to the spline. There is a very small circlip inside there that you wont see until you get the hub lock nuts off with the big splined socket I mentioned. The circlip is what you will need the circlip pliers for. Once the circlip is off, everything comes apart. :D
  • dillondawgdillondawg Member Posts: 18
    Check message 1584 for some help on this. Not sure if it still applies to your model. Think you have a Dana 60 so it might be a little different. Good luck. :D
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