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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions
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Just my 2 cents.
Personal example of mine is an old truck I used to own, a 1987 GMC 1/2 ton. That truck would not maintain 75 mph on flat pavement, no load and no head wind, without kicking out of O/D. At 55 - 60 mph, it did fine.
The motor has more than enough power for that load. In fact, I think the torque numbers aren't very much different than what the Powerstroke numbers are, only the V-10 is kicking out a bunch more ponies. The motorhomes are running a very similar, if not same, engine. But the tranny will be different with different programming in the PCM.
No offensive intended here, but I think you might have shot yourself in the foot with the 4.30 gears. I have 3.73's in my 350 and I can pull my wife's 31 footer without any problems. I have read lots of complaints from guys with 4.30 gears. Admittedly they are all driving F-450's and 550's, but their complaints are all the same. The engine is really screaming at highway speeds and their fuel mileage goes to heck in a handbasket.
The only options you have, IMO, are to either trade the truck, swap out axles with someone that wants a shorter gear, or plunk down about $1k for a new pinion and ring gear. I do know the 3.73's will pull your load just fine.
Thanks.
I know you! You're the guy I'm always stuck behind on the small hills you can't overtake on. I sit there grinding my teeth thinking "Why the heck doesn't he use the cruise control instead of slowing down and speeding up like that!!!!"
What year is truck? I believe '99 and 00's had a problem with lubrication for the Ball Joints - thought this had more to do with truck being hard to steer, or keep going straight. Remember reading about folks adding extra Zerk fittings so they could grease everything that supposedly was permanently lubed at factory. I think '01s and newer have the added grease fittings as standard equipment.
I only have a single rear wheel F350, don't know all the other "dynamics" involved with a dually. Maybe Mullins or someone else with a dually may have more suggestions. Curious - what's the tire pressures on the front tires? I filled mine to about 75 psi once in front, and truck got really squirrely after I dropped off the load I was carrying - lowered fronts down to about 50 psi and truck regained its road manners.
Tie rod ends would have been my first guess with worn worm gears being the next. The ball joints would cause hard steering and definitely alignment problems. I'm assuming the alignment shop would have caught bad ball joints, as well as any worn I-beam bushings or worn spring shackles bushings, depending on the truck. And as Walt suggested, it could be worn out shocks causing the front end to bounce up and down giving you the shaking front end sensation.
Something obviously is loose under there. I don't have a steering stabilizer on mine and bump steer is no problem, but I have a 4x2 as well. This may not apply to you, in fact I'm not sure if it applies to me, but I've been keeping my eyes open ever since I read about this. There have been problems reported with some portion of the steering system fracturing and completely disconnecting the front end from the steering wheel, grab your posterior and hang on 'cause it's going to be a wild ride! I don't know which part is at fault here. I would talk to the service manager at the dealership about this issue. If yours is one that is affected, there may be a recall.
I wish I could be more help, but beyond tie rod ends and worm gears, I've never had any sort of problem like this.
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Any one else notice that?
Some would argue that the current Dodge style started circa '94. Long before the current SuperDuty style.
Now, step back, smile, and watch.
Sincerely,
Paul
My '95 F150 XLT with 170K miles has problem with turn signal stalk. When trying to signal right turns, I push the lever up, but signal won't blink (or even light up at all). If I diddle with it and hold it half way, so that it doesn't click in, the signal will work. Just don't remember to do this all the time. Left turns are fine.
Problem started this winter, but only on sub zero days, now it's all the time. Anybody ever sprayed electronics cleaner in there, or how about WD-40? I don't want to spend money on a new turn signal switch assembly and don't have time to spend playing in steering column. Didn't want to spray anything into stalk area for fear of making things worse, or shorting out clock spring or something else. Anybody know if it's safe to do this?
Of course I could stick my out arm the window, but I don't think anybody recognizes hand signals anymore.
This is not to say something won't happen, but I've used electrical contact cleaner for years in all kinds of areas, some being the steering column and multi-function switch. This stuff is HIGHLY flammable so you definitely want to eliminate all power/spark sources before you hose it down. Usually after the cleaner evaporates, I'll spray some type of thin lubricant such as WD-40 to replace any oil that got washed away.
My last truck was a C#$@y. About once every six months I would have to do this to all of the power window, door lock, multi-function switch, radio and HVAC buttons. It was a PIA, but it would work, for a while anyway.
a. campout was talking about an 97 F150, not a SuperDuty.
b. The SuperDuty front ball joints have grease fittings, and I'm not aware of any history of premature failure of these. (my SD has 55k and they are still fine).
Sincerely
Paul
If your truck is a 4x4, you might want to start keeping an eye on your "permanently" lubed front hubs. They also have a history of failing right around the 50k mark.
campout,
Ouch $525. That doesn't seem like a very labor intensive job. I guess its hard to get in and out of a shop these days for less than $500.
Do not use heat. It will travel up the shaft and ruin the seals in the box!
The few I've dealt with have never come off easy. Makes me wonder at the stories of them coming off by themselves. :-)
Can you give a bit more info? What year F150? 6 or 8 cyclinder? Manual or Auto Tranny? Did it come with factory towing package? How big's the boat and how heavy with the trailer? What kind of land do you tow over - flat or over mountains?
I would think that any brand name SAE rated oil would be fine. Change it according to the rough service intervals and you'd be fine. Engine oil doesn't really help with cooling, it contains additives in it to prevent viscosity break down and "coking" as a result of engine heat (I sound like a Castrol commercial). I tend to think oil pressure is more important than oil temp - hot oil can still flow, but oil without pressure is useless.
I'd be more concerned about general engine cooling, and how hot the transmission gets while you're pulling the boat. Heat kills tranmission faster than engines. Does you're truck have a real temp gauge or just the idiot lights? If you're really concerned - spend the money and get accurate aftermarket gauges.
However, more recently they noticed that the sound of the engine when starting has changed drastically. It is quite difficult to describe this, but it now has a deeper grinding noise, more reminiscent of a diesel engine, at least to my ears. The vehicle otherwise starts fine, although my son-in-law believes that it doesn't fire up quite as rapidly has when they first got it.
While at a local auto parts store the other day a fellow came in to buy a starter for a F150 anbd before the customer said what it was the parts counter guy said, "It's a 5.4, right?" With a somewhat surprized look the guy said "yes" and asked if these were a problem, to which the parts guy said "it's one of the most popular types to be replaced."
Knowing how much brand bias there is, is there a history with these 5.4 starters?
By the way, I have heard one other F150 make the same starter noise as my daughter's in the parking lot the other day. The owner said that the starter "changed noise" about 20,000 miles ago but still functions okay.
Thanks in advance,
Dusty
If you go to a parts counter and tell them you have a Ford F150. It's no big secret that the 2 main motors are the 4.6L and 5.4L.
The fact that the F150 is the best selling vehicle in the USA, and has been for quite some time, then it is somewhat reasonable that F150 replacement parts would be popular. Lots of these F150's from 1997+ are probably getting up there in the miles.
My 00 F250 SuperDuty with the 5.4L has 56k miles and starts the same as it did when it was new.
There might be something to AKJBMW's comment.
Thanks,
Dusty
A loud hissing noise. The original pump was completely silent until it began to make this noise on turns. The second pump did the same thing, was totally quiet then just started to make noise on turns. The third pump is intermittent in nature, but has a steady hissing noise that is very subdued until the steering wheel is turned.
Dusty
Best wishes,
Jrc346
Tires with more traction tend to make the pump work harder to overcome the friction when turning the wheels without moving.
Of course if your still under a warranty, this is all a moot point.
At a cold (56 F) first-in-the-morning start she immediately placed the transmission in neutral. When she release the hand brake she noticed that the vehicle was moving slightly as if it was in gear. When she stepped on the accerator pedal, the truck lurched forward slightly, then there was a dull thud and the engine raced freely.
There have been numerous attempts to repeat this symptom, but to no avail. The ATF seems okay, but it's deinitely not fresh. I suggested that the transmissuion fluid be flushed and replenished, change the filter, and if applicable, make any band adjustments.
Any ideas beyond gummy fluid?
Regards,
Dusty