Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

1568101143

Comments

  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I can't say for sure, but my gut feeling is that given the aerodynamics of your rig, the speed involved, and the fact that you're pulling a little over half the rated capacity, it doesn't seem unreasonable that it should drop out of overdrive under those circumstances.
    Just my 2 cents.
  • don770don770 Member Posts: 12
    That would be ok,, but at 65 mph the engine will be turning at 3250RPM, way too fast to drive any distance like that. Once it drops out of overdrive it doesnt seem to want to go back in unless I slow down. Guess I cant go any faster then 55 or 60?? I will have to check with people that have this same engine in their 17000lb motorhomes. I appreciate the response though. :-)
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Mac brought up a very good point. The aerodynamics on these truck are not exactly conducive to high speeds. And, you're putting a even bigger box behind you creating even more drag. I'm sure there is some formula to calculate this, but I'd bet a beer the wind drag increases exponentially with the increase in speed.

    Personal example of mine is an old truck I used to own, a 1987 GMC 1/2 ton. That truck would not maintain 75 mph on flat pavement, no load and no head wind, without kicking out of O/D. At 55 - 60 mph, it did fine.

    The motor has more than enough power for that load. In fact, I think the torque numbers aren't very much different than what the Powerstroke numbers are, only the V-10 is kicking out a bunch more ponies. The motorhomes are running a very similar, if not same, engine. But the tranny will be different with different programming in the PCM.

    No offensive intended here, but I think you might have shot yourself in the foot with the 4.30 gears. I have 3.73's in my 350 and I can pull my wife's 31 footer without any problems. I have read lots of complaints from guys with 4.30 gears. Admittedly they are all driving F-450's and 550's, but their complaints are all the same. The engine is really screaming at highway speeds and their fuel mileage goes to heck in a handbasket.

    The only options you have, IMO, are to either trade the truck, swap out axles with someone that wants a shorter gear, or plunk down about $1k for a new pinion and ring gear. I do know the 3.73's will pull your load just fine.
  • burly77burly77 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 f150 with the 5.4 triton. Recently I went to start it up and blew a spark plug out of the head. I've talked some people in the know and they've heard of it in V-10's, and a couple 5.4s. I heard of two Expeditions in the area with the same problem, but Ford is oblivious to the problem. Just wondering how widespread this actually is.
  • revituprevitup Member Posts: 8
    Greetings all, I own a 97 F150 XLT Club cab. After a trip I turn the engine off, get out and hear what sounds like bumblebees under the hood, it eventually goes away. Before I take it to the shop, does anyone have an idea of what it might be?

    Thanks.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    My father's does the same thing. I'm fairly certain it's not A/C related. I'd bet it is vacuum related. You might try disconnecting the vacuum line to the vacuum canister as soon as you shut off the engine. If the noise stops, then at least you'll know what the noise is.
  • leroybkrleroybkr Member Posts: 17
    I have a 99 F350 V10 4.30LS Auto SC SRW LWB and tow a 15000 lb 5th all over the US including mountain ranges up to 8000 ft. I always tow with the OD on unless I need direct drive for downhill speed control. I travel at 55-58 MPH. The rig stays in OD unless the grade exceeds 1% TO 2%. The 4R100 torque converter (TC) stays locked up as long as the speed is above 30 MPH (with the 4.30 axle) in either 2nd, 3rd or OD except during shifts . For this reason no TC heat is developed unless it constantly shifts in and out of OD. The shift control on the 4R100 does not allow hunting between 3rd and 4th on any steady grade. The only time I see shifting back and forth is when the grade is constantly changing from up hill to down hill.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    I've got a somewhat heavier rig than you, with CC 4x4 LWB. I've got V10 w/3.73 rear end, but only tow about 8-9K. Mine tends to shift in and outta OD more often than it sounds like your's does. If I towed more, I'd have gotten the 4.30, but am basically happy with the taller gearing. I have an Autometer tranny temp gauge, if I see temps start to creep up, I'll lock out the overdrive. I'm not that concerned about tranny, my cruise control makes me nuts though. On shallow grades or small rolling hills, at speeds between 60 and 70, it can't decide what it wants to do - speeds up, slows down repetitively, starts making me nuts. I think cruise causes the tranmssion to drop out of OD more than anything else. Of course dealer can't find anything wrong, even though I demonstrated the symptoms to them.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    .....at speeds between 60 and 70, it can't decide what it wants to do - speeds up, slows down repetitively.....

    I know you! You're the guy I'm always stuck behind on the small hills you can't overtake on. I sit there grinding my teeth thinking "Why the heck doesn't he use the cruise control instead of slowing down and speeding up like that!!!!"
  • bonvecbonvec Member Posts: 11
    I have a f350 dually v10 with 42,000 miles has been trouble free until recently. I had new tires and front end alignment about three months ago and everything was fine but now after I go over a bump or road surface changes (its actually pretty random) the steering wheel shakes violently until I slow down to about 20mph the shaking happens anywhere between 35 and65 miles an hour . The shop put on new tie rods but didn't help at all. Any suggestions please , I'm nervous driving this truck it shakes so bad.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Is this a 4x4? If so, your steering damper - a shock absorber mounted horizontally between the two front wheels is probably dead. Big tires, and solid beam front suspension of 4x4 Superduty is very susceptible to "Bump Steer," the tendency for steering wheel to change direction after hitting a bumps, road joints, etc. If it's a 4x2, adding an aftermarket steering damper would help. Also, have heard the OEM shocks are NOT known for their longevity - develop "internal" leaks that aren't really evident, ride dagrades slowly so you don't realize shocks are kaput.
      What year is truck? I believe '99 and 00's had a problem with lubrication for the Ball Joints - thought this had more to do with truck being hard to steer, or keep going straight. Remember reading about folks adding extra Zerk fittings so they could grease everything that supposedly was permanently lubed at factory. I think '01s and newer have the added grease fittings as standard equipment.
      I only have a single rear wheel F350, don't know all the other "dynamics" involved with a dually. Maybe Mullins or someone else with a dually may have more suggestions. Curious - what's the tire pressures on the front tires? I filled mine to about 75 psi once in front, and truck got really squirrely after I dropped off the load I was carrying - lowered fronts down to about 50 psi and truck regained its road manners.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    If I am understanding you correctly, then what you are experiencing could be described as a "tank slapper" on a motorcycle. The front tires wildly swing/steer from left to right in rapid succession, and will continue to do so until you apply the brakes and slow down.

    Tie rod ends would have been my first guess with worn worm gears being the next. The ball joints would cause hard steering and definitely alignment problems. I'm assuming the alignment shop would have caught bad ball joints, as well as any worn I-beam bushings or worn spring shackles bushings, depending on the truck. And as Walt suggested, it could be worn out shocks causing the front end to bounce up and down giving you the shaking front end sensation.

    Something obviously is loose under there. I don't have a steering stabilizer on mine and bump steer is no problem, but I have a 4x2 as well. This may not apply to you, in fact I'm not sure if it applies to me, but I've been keeping my eyes open ever since I read about this. There have been problems reported with some portion of the steering system fracturing and completely disconnecting the front end from the steering wheel, grab your posterior and hang on 'cause it's going to be a wild ride! I don't know which part is at fault here. I would talk to the service manager at the dealership about this issue. If yours is one that is affected, there may be a recall.

    I wish I could be more help, but beyond tie rod ends and worm gears, I've never had any sort of problem like this.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,147
    image

    Join us tonight, 6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET for Town Hall Trivia Night and member-to-member chat – come test your knowledge and chat with fellow members!

    http://www.edmunds.com/townhall/chat/townhallchat.html

    See you there!

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • mesazonemesazone Member Posts: 51
    Not sure where to post this and not meaning to be negative, but I was glancing over a new Dodge pickup and noticed that it has a lot of similar curves to the Ford F150. Granted the Dodge nose is a lot different and a bit extreme IMHO, but the sides and cab going towards the back look strinkingly the same as the F150.

    Any one else notice that?
  • akjbmwakjbmw Member Posts: 231
    (Watch for feathers...)

    Some would argue that the current Dodge style started circa '94. Long before the current SuperDuty style.

    Now, step back, smile, and watch.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Wow, that sounds exactly like a problem I had with both a 71 Chevy van 3/4 ton and an 89 F-Super Duty dump. At speeds of 35 MPH and up, if I hit a bump, pothole, or even just a series of asphalt irregularities or "waves" in the road, it would set the front suspension into a frenzy: the affected wheel would "bounce" up and down on the road surface at a high frequency, making the entire front end shake like Los Angeles in a 7.5. I am guessing this is what's happening with yours, since a side-to-side motion of the wheels is less likely to be caused by bumps. The only way to verify it is to literally roll your window down, stick your head out, and look at the motion of the wheels while affected. This isn't nearly as dangerous as it sounds as long as you keep a two-handed death grip on the steering wheel in light traffic or a deserted parking lot. If it is an up-and-down motion, you have a natural frequency problem. By that, I mean the combination of your shocks, springs, vehicle weight, and tires are not properly calibrated and the bump you hit at that speed range "bounces" your front end at its natural frequency to vibrate-just like a rubber ball on a kitchen floor. Slowing down drops the suspension below that frequency, and the bouncing stops. The main problem with my vehicles turned out to be bias-ply tires (non-steel belted). These tend to bounce more easily than steel belted tires, since the steel belts add rigidity. (The shocks were not exactly brand new, either, which didn't help matters much). Bias-ply tires are still available and widely used as large truck tires, since the thickness of a semi-tractor trailer tire makes it virtually impervious to a nail. So my prime suspect, Bonvec, would be those new tires you're using. Even if they're not bias-ply, they may be incorrect for your particular truck. I have a hard time believing the shocks suddenly failed on your vehicle at only 42,000 miles. Until you get it fixed, play with the tire pressure to reduce the likelihood of the bouncing. I found that on my two troubled trucks an increase in tire pressure (which "hardens" the tire unit and makes it less elastic) greatly reduced the bouncing occurrences. Good luck, and please update us when you resolve the problem!
  • bonvecbonvec Member Posts: 11
    Went to the tire shop today to have wheels balanced and to pick the employees brains a little while there they discovered that my tire pressure was only 40 in the front so maybe this will help I'll have to drive for a week without trouble before I declare the truck fixed.By the way the wheels balance checked out didn't need it.
  • bonvecbonvec Member Posts: 11
    So far haven't had any problems looks like it was low air pressure.
  • campoutcampout Member Posts: 22
    Hello to everyone on the list. I own a '97 F-150 RC/LB 4WD XLT and the truck just turned 50k, mostly highway miles, very little off-road. Question, is it unusual for the upper/lower ball joints to go bad this early? I'm aware that their isn't a grease fitting like the older trucks had, but shouldn't they last longer? Local repair shop wants to charge $900 for both including labor. The replacement parts have permanent fitting and guarnteed for life of truck. Not to willing to go back to Ford and have the same thing happen again in another 50k. Any suggestions welcome, thanking in advance.

    Sincerely,
    Paul
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Hi gang,
      My '95 F150 XLT with 170K miles has problem with turn signal stalk. When trying to signal right turns, I push the lever up, but signal won't blink (or even light up at all). If I diddle with it and hold it half way, so that it doesn't click in, the signal will work. Just don't remember to do this all the time. Left turns are fine.
       Problem started this winter, but only on sub zero days, now it's all the time. Anybody ever sprayed electronics cleaner in there, or how about WD-40? I don't want to spend money on a new turn signal switch assembly and don't have time to spend playing in steering column. Didn't want to spray anything into stalk area for fear of making things worse, or shorting out clock spring or something else. Anybody know if it's safe to do this?
       Of course I could stick my out arm the window, but I don't think anybody recognizes hand signals anymore.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Lots of buys with the Superduties have this exact problem, so it doesn't surprise me to read yours as well. These things are supposedly "lubricated for life." Apparently that "life" they are talking about refers to the "life" of the ball joint and NOT the truck. The only fix I know of is to replace them with greasable joints. But even so, $900 is a tough pill to swallow.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    You might want to ask around, but I'd be willing to bet if you disconnect the battery and let it set for a minute or so, any electrical current should be drained from the airbag. Or does it even have one? I can't remember if my dad's '92 had one or not.

    This is not to say something won't happen, but I've used electrical contact cleaner for years in all kinds of areas, some being the steering column and multi-function switch. This stuff is HIGHLY flammable so you definitely want to eliminate all power/spark sources before you hose it down. Usually after the cleaner evaporates, I'll spray some type of thin lubricant such as WD-40 to replace any oil that got washed away.

    My last truck was a C#$@y. About once every six months I would have to do this to all of the power window, door lock, multi-function switch, radio and HVAC buttons. It was a PIA, but it would work, for a while anyway.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Jeez thanks Jim, I wasn't even thinking about the airbag. Wouldn't I have been surprised if I fired it off with my head under the steering column. Good thing I asked.
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    You responded to campout, but I'm not sure how helpful it was.

    a. campout was talking about an 97 F150, not a SuperDuty.

    b. The SuperDuty front ball joints have grease fittings, and I'm not aware of any history of premature failure of these. (my SD has 55k and they are still fine).
  • campoutcampout Member Posts: 22
    Thanks to Mullens and Bess for quick replies regarding ball joints (lower) on RC/Lb 4wd '97 F-150 truck. Had them replaced today, uppers ok. The total cost $525. Still think 50k is way too early for a part like this to fail. Service manger at repair shop said some fail before warranty is up. Thanks again for everyones input regarding this matter.

    Sincerely
    Paul
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    I realize that campout has an F-150, but it wouldn't surprise me if the F-150 has similar non-greasable ball joints as the Superduties. I don't know at what point Ford changed, but nobody that I have talked to has greasable ball joints in their early Superduties. I'm fairly certain the newer trucks have them.

    If your truck is a 4x4, you might want to start keeping an eye on your "permanently" lubed front hubs. They also have a history of failing right around the 50k mark.
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    Mullins, thanks for the heads up. Just fyi. I have an 00' SuperDuty bought in Nov 99. It has greasable ball joints.

    campout,
    Ouch $525. That doesn't seem like a very labor intensive job. I guess its hard to get in and out of a shop these days for less than $500.
  • vidtechvidtech Member Posts: 212
    anyone have any ideas on removing a stuck pitman arm from my f150(power steering)i have ruined two pitman arm pullers trying to get this off.i have even soaked the area with blaster penetrating oil.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    PB Blaster isn't a last resort, it's the first thing you should do (a couple of days in advance). Next, sounds obvious, a bigger stronger puller. Finally, if all else fails, sacrifice the arm. Use an angle grinder to grind one side of the 'ring' through almost to the splines. You can then either remove it easily with a puller, or split it with a chisel and pull it off with your fingers.

    Do not use heat. It will travel up the shaft and ruin the seals in the box!
  • vidtechvidtech Member Posts: 212
    thanks for the grinder suggestion.i was going to replace the worn pitman arm anyways.by the way,one of those pullers WAS a darn good one.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    There's a first for everything. You're the first I've "talked" to that has factory greasable ball joints. Either you're lucky to have them or everybody else I've "talked" to is unlucky.
  • akjbmwakjbmw Member Posts: 231
    The placement of a heavy object (small anvil or sledge) against one side of the "ring" of the arm, and then the forceable placement of a good sledge against the opposite side can sometimes provide enough flex to pop it loose. At the very least, you get to express your feelings against it.
      The few I've dealt with have never come off easy. Makes me wonder at the stories of them coming off by themselves. :-)
  • want2bdiyer1want2bdiyer1 Member Posts: 1
    I am getting ready for my fist spring / summer hauling a boat with my 150 Ford truck. I notice the temperature runs higher than normal when I am towing. Is there a "better" motor oil I can use to help the engine from overheating? Do I need to do anything prior to my first voyage?
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    want2bdiyer1,
       Can you give a bit more info? What year F150? 6 or 8 cyclinder? Manual or Auto Tranny? Did it come with factory towing package? How big's the boat and how heavy with the trailer? What kind of land do you tow over - flat or over mountains?
      I would think that any brand name SAE rated oil would be fine. Change it according to the rough service intervals and you'd be fine. Engine oil doesn't really help with cooling, it contains additives in it to prevent viscosity break down and "coking" as a result of engine heat (I sound like a Castrol commercial). I tend to think oil pressure is more important than oil temp - hot oil can still flow, but oil without pressure is useless.
       I'd be more concerned about general engine cooling, and how hot the transmission gets while you're pulling the boat. Heat kills tranmission faster than engines. Does you're truck have a real temp gauge or just the idiot lights? If you're really concerned - spend the money and get accurate aftermarket gauges.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My daughter and son-in-law recently bought a 2001 F150 Supercrew with the 5.4 engine at 37,000 miles. They've had some problems with power steering pumps (now on their third one) making noise and this issue has not yet been resolved.

    However, more recently they noticed that the sound of the engine when starting has changed drastically. It is quite difficult to describe this, but it now has a deeper grinding noise, more reminiscent of a diesel engine, at least to my ears. The vehicle otherwise starts fine, although my son-in-law believes that it doesn't fire up quite as rapidly has when they first got it.

    While at a local auto parts store the other day a fellow came in to buy a starter for a F150 anbd before the customer said what it was the parts counter guy said, "It's a 5.4, right?" With a somewhat surprized look the guy said "yes" and asked if these were a problem, to which the parts guy said "it's one of the most popular types to be replaced."

    Knowing how much brand bias there is, is there a history with these 5.4 starters?

    By the way, I have heard one other F150 make the same starter noise as my daughter's in the parking lot the other day. The owner said that the starter "changed noise" about 20,000 miles ago but still functions okay.

    Thanks in advance,
    Dusty
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    I've been monitoring this board and other for several years now. I've not heard of any consistant problem with 5.4L starter motors.

    If you go to a parts counter and tell them you have a Ford F150. It's no big secret that the 2 main motors are the 4.6L and 5.4L.
    The fact that the F150 is the best selling vehicle in the USA, and has been for quite some time, then it is somewhat reasonable that F150 replacement parts would be popular. Lots of these F150's from 1997+ are probably getting up there in the miles.

    My 00 F250 SuperDuty with the 5.4L has 56k miles and starts the same as it did when it was new.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    I'm with bess. I've haven't heard of any particular problems with the starter. If the kids are really worried about it, have a shop inspect and rebuild it if necessary. Otherwise, if it continues to start just fine with no other apparent problems, I'd just let it go until it quits. However, on second thought, I'd probably pull either the starter or the inspection plate on the bottom of the bellhousing just to make sure the starter isn't chewing up the ring gear.
  • akjbmwakjbmw Member Posts: 231
    When the battery starts to drop in available amps or the wiring connections degrade restricting current flow, the starter sound will change.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Thanks for the responses. I have yet to hear of an actual 5.4 starter motor failure other than the parts counter episode. But I have heard one other 5.4 make the same sound and I know they don't all do it.

    There might be something to AKJBMW's comment.

    Thanks,
    Dusty
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    I don't know if this noise will be any easier to describe, but what kind of noise is the power steering pump making that is causing it to be replaced?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    JRC346,

    A loud hissing noise. The original pump was completely silent until it began to make this noise on turns. The second pump did the same thing, was totally quiet then just started to make noise on turns. The third pump is intermittent in nature, but has a steady hissing noise that is very subdued until the steering wheel is turned.

    Dusty
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    I thought that is what you might say. I have a 1999 Ford Expedition that has had this exact same noise. Not loud, but you can hear it when you turn the wheel. I think that this is just a characteristic of some Ford power steering pumps. My son's 1996 Ford T-Bird also makes this power steering noise. So far however, both vehicles have not had power steering pump failures. My Expedition is at 80,000 miles and my son's car is at 117,000 miles. I just learn to live with it, and if you can, you may want to aswell. That is unless the noise is excessive.
    Best wishes,
    Jrc346
  • akjbmwakjbmw Member Posts: 231
    Having owned a few ford products over the years with Power Steering, I have successfully ignored the hiss until it became a serious growl. I only had a couple of them enough years to get to the growl. It wasn't a Cougar like growl either...
     Tires with more traction tend to make the pump work harder to overcome the friction when turning the wheels without moving.
  • utopiautopia Member Posts: 24
    Has anyone had a problem with water collecting somewhere within the truck from the hood area & causing a moisture/mildew problem inside the cab of the truck? If so, have there been any recalls or TSB's issued that you know of? Friend is having real problems with this issue in their F-150. Thanks....
  • tgoldtgold Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 F - 150 Supercab 4.2L V6. It has a manual transmission. I bought it used at 16,000 miles. It ran great until I noticed what I can best describe as a "soft clutch" at about 28,000 miles. The clutch pedal seems to lose pressure and does not actually engage until it is about 2 to 3 inches from the floor of the truck. I can pump the clutch pedal 4 to 5 times while it is in neutral and this re pressurizes the clutch pedal. This helps the clutch to engage right after applying pressure to the pedal, but soon after it loses pressure again. I took it to Ford and they had it back to me in 5 hours saying that is had a faulty clutch. They said to have replaced the pressure plate and that disc. After 8,000 miles the "soft clutch" returned. I again took it to Ford and they again replaced the pressure plate and disc. They began to question if I raced the truck or towed very heavy loads. I replied no to both questions. At about 38,000 miles, only 2,000 miles after the last repair, the soft "soft clutch" is back and now worse that ever. I had a difficult time putting it into any gear at two lights. I took is back to Ford and they seem as though they are lost as to what could be causing this problem. Oh, I forgot to mention that shifting into 3rd gear the transmission grinds a bit at times. Ford said to have fixed this twice as well. Anyone have a problem similar to this?
  • vidtechvidtech Member Posts: 212
    i had a similiar problem with my 87 f150 several years back.i had a problem with the slave cylinder.i am not sure if the new trucks still use a hydraulic system like they did in the past.the system has a "master cylinder"which connects to the clutch pedal.the slave clyinder is at the other end in the bell housing.i would suspect a problem with the slave cylinder,master cylinder,improper fluid level or air in the clutch's hydraulic system.many technicians often overlook the system.fix the clutch problem and i would bet the grinding of the gears will be solved.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I agree with vidtech. The fact that you can restore original function by pumping the pedal indicates that. The gear grinding too. Changing the clutch is just silly. Take it to another dealer and hope for a more efficient service dept.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    I agree, either master cylinder or slave cylinder. I have a Superduty, but I think the system works the same. Mine has both a master and slave cylinder. I don't think it's a wide spread problem, but I have talked to a few Superduty owners that have experienced a very similar problem with their fairly new, low mileage trucks. I think vidtech and mac24 are right on it. Find a new dealer with a better shop, have them replace either the master or slave cylinder, or both to be sure, and your problem will go away.
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    It is sad that the first dealer you took it to didn't fix it right while it was under factory warranty. I wonder if the new dealer (or Ford regional rep) can cut you a break since this is a re-occuring problem that started while under factory warranty..
    Of course if your still under a warranty, this is all a moot point.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My daughter's new (to her) 2001 4x4 Supercrew with a 5.4 engine, 31,000 miles, did something strange the other day.

    At a cold (56 F) first-in-the-morning start she immediately placed the transmission in neutral. When she release the hand brake she noticed that the vehicle was moving slightly as if it was in gear. When she stepped on the accerator pedal, the truck lurched forward slightly, then there was a dull thud and the engine raced freely.

    There have been numerous attempts to repeat this symptom, but to no avail. The ATF seems okay, but it's deinitely not fresh. I suggested that the transmissuion fluid be flushed and replenished, change the filter, and if applicable, make any band adjustments.

    Any ideas beyond gummy fluid?

    Regards,
    Dusty
This discussion has been closed.