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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions
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Comments
If the wires and plugs were of the performance variety, they likely do not include the shielding to prevent rfi (radio frequency interference) radiation.
The short answer is, radios don't like the electromagnetic pulses from unshielded wires.
If you still have the old wires, put 'em back in and you may see the static go away. Then you will know to get better shielding.
The vehicle had the smaller V8 engine which was rated 14 - 18 miles per gallon. Thus, I assume the new 5.4 V8 engine will get a little less mileage. Interestingly, the 2004 brochure is really very well done but there is NO mention of the fuel economy of either V8 engine!
The interior had a bench seat with little or no legroom for the middle occupant as there is a 4 wheel drive selector shift plus 2 uneccessary cup holders in the floor. That said, the quality and practicality of the 2 tone fabric upholstery was first rate and the nicest I have ever seen in a pickup truck.
By all means, do NOT open and shut the glove compartment or you will be sadly disappointed. It closes to the sound of a cheap piece of tin and kind of scares one into wondering about the vehicle's overall quality. After all, it IS the little things that count.
One other small negative. There is no hand hold when getting into the rear seat.
Everything else seemed fine.
johnmei
I do think that Ford gave me that 2000 lb figure for off of the bumper alone. I recently took it to a mechanic (who is pretty trustworthy) and he said I can tow without any problem and wouldn't need the tow package (after he checked it out), but I would feel much better with one, so I am checking prices out for that.
I have always had Explorers before and this is my first truck, so maybe that is why I am not used to more of a bumpy ride?I guess I figured that this truck is more expensive, so the ride would be smooth. I had the tires checked out and they checked out fine (says the dealer's tire guy) but an outside person said that there were flat spots and the dealer refuses to do anything since they say things are fine.
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As I exit a corner and accelerate, the transmission downshifts, at the same time I feel a clunk and I hear a grinding noise. Speed is approx 10-20 mph, wheels are straight ahead. This happens when the when the engine is cold and when it is warm.
Any ideas?
Pin it down just behind the head with a forked stick?
Seriously, this what your warranty is for. Don't go ripping off the door trim yourself and possibly damaging it. Take it back to the dealer to have it dealt with. The cost of dealing with warranty problems was included in the price you paid for your vehicle.
Thanks,
Skipjack2
I haven't had this trouble, knock on wood, but from what I'm being told, it's a fairly easy 10-15 minute roadside fix. I think all you need is a 10mm end wrench. But I could be wrong. You might want to check out that wrench size. As far as buying one, don't go to Ford for it. Go to the nearest IH/Navistar dealer/parts store for it. I'm not sure what Ford wants for one, but the identical part at the IH store will run you about $80.
Of course, I'm assuming you keep the oil level up and you don't let it get low. Also I'm assuming you change the fuel filter on a regular basis.
That is why I made the assumption about the oil level. When the Powerstroke runs low on oil, it will shut down on its own due to the lack of oil being supplied to the high pressure oil pump. That is a nice feature of this system as the engine should shut down before any major damage is done.
Just thought you'd like to know.
The fuel lift pump was mounted on the side of the engine and had an arm that reached inside, which was driven mechanically by, I assume, a lobe on the camshaft.
How major of surgery is replacing the valve guides on a 6.8 V10?
Mine occasionally puffed a bit of blue smoke on cold startups.
Only has 9800 miles on it. (Wife drives it). Took it to the dealer
and left it overnight to cold start next morning. Of course it did
not puff any smoke at all. Next time I took it in it did. They ordered
all the needed valve guides. I am wondering what is involved, (how far
do they have to tear down the engine), to replace them?? Also, there
are no valve stem seals anymore, just the guides??
Thanks,
...don
P.S. Has anyone else heard of this problem with the V10??
I have seen other messages about vibration problems, and service folks from dealer acknowledge that there are other similiar complaints, but no official word from FoMoCo.
This week a Ford Co rep is coming to attempt fix...what are my options in Connecticut?
But since they don't all do it I am having a difficult time believing there is something inherent in the design. I also hate to say this, but I don't believe there is quite the quality of technical expertise in the field to support contemporary products. Replacing components is as easy as going to the parts counter person and ordering parts.
I know this may sound trite -- and it really isn't intended -- but have they tried some sound diagnostic procedures? Your dealer sounds as if they are at least earnestly concerned. I know a few people that are dealing with other Ford dealers that aren't getting anywhere near the attention that you are. They're getting the old service managers song, "that's normal."
I say this because I know someone who resolved the problem themselves on a F150 SuperCrew -- at their own expense -- and it turned out to be a combination of wheel runout AND tire runout.
Best of luck,
Dusty
Have they tried one of these machines that actually balances out the tire and wheel while they are mounted on the car? Go through the website, there's a page where you can punch in your zip code and find a shop that has one. Supposedly they can find problems, no one else can.
http://128.242.141.111/index.cfm
They removed driveshaft and vehicle still vibrates at 1800 RPM, etc etc. Dealer stated 2 visits ago I can qualify for new vehicle or buyback. Thank goodness I reported problem while enroute home from taking delivery...Ford wanted to pro-rate mileage and I already have 6000 miles on it. I reported problem 10 mile from dealership.
Welcome from a Jr. Bilge Rat!
"Come On Down" ;-)
RWNJ
Not sure if it's just the mass of these trucks is too much for stock brakes. If it's heating up brakes in city driving, then going through a puddle of cold water and distorting them. Or, if the local teenager with air gun at tire shop is overtightening the wheel lugs. Some folks report that they have bought aftermarket rotors ($$) that're slotted to dissipate heat better and warping problems have stopped.
Anyone heard of a fix on the 6.0 yet? I was in the local Ford dealers, saw one with a 6.0, and asked that paragon of virtue and fountain of knowledge, a salesman, if they had the problems fixed. He assured me they did, it was the injectors, and they got that straightened out in September or so. Anybody heard of that?
Any input appreciated.
The Powerstroke has been around since '94 with the 7.3L itself dating back into either the late '80s or early '90s. There were a few problems with the introduction of the Superduty in '98, but I believe most all were worked out by '02.
What was the truck used for? With it only being a little over a year old and 38k miles, it should be in very good condition.
I'm like you, barring some strange event such as driving it into a pond or being run over by a large piece of equipment, it should be a great truck. Good luck!
Should I change the fluid and filter, have the transmission totally flushed or wait it out until it dies and than have a rebuilt installed?
thanks
Also, bad plugs or plug wires can cause a similar sensation.
Good luck,
Dusty
Hmmmm............ I know which I'd try first!