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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions
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Comments
First off, keep your cool (in general service people want to help you out so that they earn that all important "excellent" service rating that gets them brownie points from Ford). I know your truck is a lot of money, but if you go in there screaming, they won't be so helpful. Talk to them calmly and cooly and explain that you're not satisfied with their repair attempts. Keep copious records of everything that was done to your truck - keep all the receipts and service sheets - also keep notes on and write down the names of everybody you've dealt with in person or on the phone - along with times and dates.
If you're not happy with current service dept., try going to a different dealer. Sometimes a different mechanic might have a different insight into the problem. Explain the problem as you see it, and also tell them that you're dissatisfied with Dealer XYZ and why. New service department would love to have your business.
If you still can't get satisfaction - bring in Ford Corporate. Look in the back of your Ford Warranty manual - it'll have a section on contacting the Regional Representative to bring bigger guns to bear on your problem. They have special mechanics and field engineers, etc. to look at your problem - they also have different insights into problems the vehicles may be having as have a broader view of repair trends than your local dealer.
Now all this will be maddeningly inconvenient - you're gonna have to make multiple service appointments, and probably be without truck alot. Basically, you have to give Ford ample chance to be able to fix your vehicle. However, once you've done this, and if the vehicle hasn't been repaired to your satisfaction - you've now got all the records to show that how much they tried, and how many days your vehicle was laid up while they attempted repairs. Once you've done this you've got great ammunition to begin Lemon Law proceedings, or to go into arbitration with Ford to have them replace your vehicle.
Do a search on Lemon Law to find out the specific laws that apply to your state. Vehicle has to be out of service X amount of days, and Y unsuccessful repair attempts have to have been made for Lemon Law to apply.
Good Luck.
Remember, that by buying the first model build from any manufacturer you volunteer to be a real time product tester. It's just the price you pay for being the first on the block.
However, I understand your frustration. A mysterious problem with the vehicle's software would be far more understandable than something as basic, and reproducible, as a steering vibration.
It's ironic that while the main focus of the advertising for the new F150 seems to have centered on the 'quiet smooth ride', I read here and many places elsewhere of steering and suspension vibrations, clunks, shudders, and of noises from behind the dash area.
I really enjoyed my SuperCrews, never had any major problems or complaints and agree the 6-cd changer in console is a pain in the butt to access when driving the vehicle. Alas, I wanted a diesel and recently sold the 03 and moved up to an 04 2500 Dodge Quad Cab 4x4 with HO Cummins and 4.10 rear end. Looked at F250, but just too darn expensive and couldn't get it in a stick. And the Dodge dealer offered me $1500 more than the Ford Dealer for trade-in. At 3,000 miles, Dodge Fuel mileage 18-22 city!
Eventhough I'm a Ford fan, I think you'll really enjoy that new Cummins engine. I haven't had the opportunity to drive the new Dodge, but I have heard the engine run. I am amazed at how quiet and smooth it is, especially considering how loud the old version is.
Sincerely,
Paul
My suggestions to him have included the cheaper route; install some aftermarket overload springs. That will restore the ride height, but probably make it ride rough. The slightly more expensive route of having the springs re-arched. I don't know of anyone around here that does that sort of thing. And the expensive routes of either buying an airbag setup for the rearend or purchasing new factory springs.
Unless you can find some evidence that the leaf spring hangers or shackles are the cause, I'd bet it's just the springs loosing their arch.
Something else you should look for. You could have a broken leaf. A broken leaf in the middle of the stack can be hard to spot sometimes. Check those as well.
Look for cracks near the saddle area.
Regards,
Dusty
Sincerely,
Paul
At this point, Ford had submitted a buy back offer. It i simperative you make complaint early, and document it. They attempt to charge you for mileage used, I have mine frozen at zero as I made complaint to dealer svc mgr within 10 miles of picking up vehicle.
I think FoMoCo prefers this to consumer going with Lemon Law. I live in CT, they have excellent consumer protection website. They figure 4 visits (I have 9) and/or 30 days without use of vehicle in 2 years constitutes Lemon
I did everything EXCEPT go for half hour ride with dealer when I picked it up, my mistake.
At this point, Road Force balancing, 2 sets of tires (always OEM for some reason?), driveshaftremoval and balancing (twice), and running engine with driveshaft out still gives vibration at approx 1800 RPM.
I hope 2004 does better for me, I am hoping 5.4 may be smoother than 4.6
dan
Bill
The process is still underway. I have not sent in my CT State Lemon Law request, but have been assured I have a water tight case. I am, however, going to make a deal with FoMoCo if they give me anything close to an even swap. even though I like the looks and interior of my 2003 better. I am HOPING the 2004 has resolved vibration issue
I wanted to make sure my point on tires is clear. Instead of BR Goodrich Long Trails and Ford wheels that came on new truck, I thought it would make sense to try another brand entirely. I located another set of 17" tires and wheels, but Ford wanted dealer to stay with OEM? Tire store was willing to try, but said upfront that IF I invested approx 800 dollars on all new wheels/tires, they did not want them back a week later. Road Force balancing indicated a definite problem with wheel/tire, and there's enough weight on my wheels to start a lead mine.
It turns out that tires were/are only a portion of problem, as they kept trying driveshaft balance, drivebelts, and vibration persisted, but I still feel aftermarket tires and wheels were large source of the defect.
As luck would have it, the very day I drof my shinny new Bright Red FX4 home, a noise from the left front drive train became a huge concern. The next morning at the service line I was told that none of the new Fords have come in for mechanical problems, only oil changes. It really stumped them. Upon test driving the truck with listening devices all over the bottom of it, a bad hub was diagnosed. We left it there for repairs with the understanding we were not in the market for a PROJECT VEHICLE. Continuing with us taking delivery of this one would be based on whether or not it turned out to be a simple fix, and/or if they could find an exact replacement.
Well the hub was not the exact problem. The noise continued. The diaphragm actuator was not fully disengaging causing the splines to clank against one other. I really am disappointed that me as a fresh convert to Ford got such a bad start.
Due to no other exact replacement vehicles any where in San Antonio, we are taking the leap of faith that this is the only problem we encounter!
Any other problems out there with the new Fords?
change gear and this feels rough,can anyone give me an idea of what's going on!so i can deal with it before too late.
Thanks
Let's see, in '89 I don't think Ford was making any fully electronic transmissions, so unless it's jerking from 4-3 then your problem is most likely mechanical. You need to see what shift control mechanisms you have on that truck, probably some type of throttle rod and/or a vaccum modulator. Failure or misadjustment of these compontents can cause odd shift patterns. If it's an internal problem, like accumulator valve seals hardening and sticking, then the solution could be as simple as a fluid and filter change. I've had really good luck with Bar's Leaks transmission seal conditioner, a translucent red liquid available at parts stores. It's done a good job smooting out some old Ford transmissions that I've owned, added in with a fresh fluid change. Good luck.
shifting upward it may not be the tranny,it maybe
something else which is jerking,the truck has done that since i bought it in may of 02,i have to do some work on the truck,which i did like
change transfer case seal,gaskets fluid etc.
I have to check the mounts to see what condition
they are in,I like this truck and need to keep it working.
pieces.
:--)
See your local auto parts jobber and they can help you.
Good luck,
Dusty
In all honesty I didn't know that the 4x4s required the whole arm.
Best of luck,
Dusty
Found they have a 4 page tech bulletin fix. Fords first fix is to put on 2 new tires out of 4.Problem is that evidently General Tire hasn't got enough to replace them. Having been waiting for 2 weeks for tires. Seem it would make good since to replace all 4 with a diff brand if this is the problem. No one wants to talk about it much.I've been running Toyotas since 85.Ford sure knows how to suck the life out of buying a new truck. Thanks for listening.
6 new tires, 2 new wheels, and a dozen visits later and the Ford still shakes. Ford field reps made attempt at saying it was normal truck ride, but dealer stepped up to the plate; I bought 30,000 dollar Lariat to be my highway vehicle, not a rattler. It seemed like a balance/wheel problem, but I swear it is motor or tranny.
When Ford's vehicle buy back folks made my deal, it was at zero miles. I am still not thrilled, because I am the oddball buyer that likes 2003 looks better, and Heritage doesn't come in Lariat interior, but if new 2004 Lariat is half the truck they claim it is, I guess I should be happy. They initially wanted me to pay for difference in MSRP, but again dealer negotiated a better deal.
danF150
Whenever I lower the steering wheel tilt a few notches below the highest setting, my left turn signal blinks and clicks rapidly on the dash, but is does not work at all outside!
Has anyone had this problem; what did you do?
thx
There's one big trick to help keep moving - you need extra weight in the bed to allow the rear wheels to dig into the snow and get grip. I usually buy six or eight bags of "tube sand" from Home Depot, or Lowes . They are 3 foot long tube-shaped bags about 8" in diameter; they weigh about 60 lbs each, and fit nicely in the unused spaces around the wheel wells (if it's a fleetside \pickup). I built a frame outta 2x6 lumber that helps to hold the bags against the bed rails, otherwise they tend to slide around in back. You can use other stuff to add weight, but I prefer sand as you've always got a ready supply of traction material in the event you do get stuck.
Just remember that the truck's much heavier than any cars you've driven - you've got to allow yourself longer stopping distances (even with ABS) and don't try to take turns too quickly because even with weight in the back, the rear end can still break loose relatively easily if you push it too hard. All this becomes second nature once you driven around for a while in winter.
One other note - if you get an ice storm... stay home! Pickups really suck on glare ice. I rode my F350 Crew Cab 4x4 sideways down a hill last week for a few hundred yards. I was stopped at the crest and truck just started sliding all by itself before I even took my foot off the brake. Had no steering whatsoever, and the rear end decided to try to pass the front. Luckily I didn't hit anything, but had to change my shorts when I finally got home.