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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions
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Comments
When you go to start, the GP light goes out after about 15-20 sec but the GPR is on for nearly two minutes. Wait another 45 sec after the light goes out before turning her over. Cycle the glow plugs again before cranking if it is really cold.
The synthetic lubricants are great, they give you a much lower flow/pour temperature and much less resistance to cranking the engine. Depending on where you live and whether they have winter blend diesel, you might want to add an anti-gel formula to your fuel. There are several on the market, some of the names are PowerService (available at most Truck Stops) and Stanadyne.
Ultimately though, it's your relationship with your dealer that will decide the issue.
thanks!
Joe
At 35K miles my tranny started to slip. By the time I hit 50K I was told by the dealer that tranny number 6 had to be installed.
I had had enough!
I contacted the owner of Sam Pack's Ford in Dallas and got old Sam on the phone.
Now you need to understand I had done business with these guys for 12 years.
I asked Sam to make me deal on a new truck since I was finished with this one.
He was not willing to make any cost concessions on a new truck. He almost gave me the idea he did not want my truck either.
I traded it for new 03 Silverado LT. So far so good!
I will never purchase another Ford as long as I am alive.
Here is the TSB: #03-6-2
MAR 03 Engine - Oil Leak From R/H Cylinder Head Gasket
If left long enough, I am sure this would cause a complete failure.
When you say "extra insurance" does that mean that you have an extended warranty? If so thats great, but in most cases that engine would have been replaced for free anyway. Be confident that your new/rebuilt 5.4 will be trouble free, as the defect has been corrected.
Anyone had this problem? What should I do? Does Ford have a contact who would be interested in this or can help?
Given the published rigidity of the new frame, I am suprised, however, this seems to be a flexing of the "cab"... so was the same attention paid to this?
I have since found, on other F150 web sites, that this is a widespread defect. The fix seems to be taking the window frame out and inserting some extra foam stripping. It's a bummer, because the truck is otherwise very stiff.
2. I have the Lariat and I too long for extended visors.
1. the King Ranch is a true four door with pillar between the doors, I believe...is that true?
2. the seats...I must have manual or power lumbar support for both front passenger and driver...GMC Sierra has 10 way power seats for pass and driver, and also power lumbar support for both...does the King Ranch, or any model of the F150?
3. can the KR be had with a short bed so the entire vehicle does not cross two counties?
4. does the 2003 come with adjustable pedals and a 5.4L engine?
Thanks...Bob
It has been approx 5,000 miles since the last oil change. The drain plug is tight, and the motor never seemed to burn oil. Friday evening the motor suffered a catastrophic failure. As I was driving down I-95, the "service engine soon" light came on, the engine began to lose power and the oil pressure dropped. Before I could pull off on the shoulder and shut it off, I heard a short "screech" (Obviously a seizure).
Not fair considering that I just bought out the lease and haven't even made the 1st payment yet!
Anyway.- My mechanic has told me that there is a company he deals with, that can get me a new "0" milege motor with all of the updates needed according to the TSB"s issued to the dealers, for about $3,000 (Motor only). It also comes with a 2 year 40,000 mile warranty.
I really like this darn truck. It's my first Ford and I liked it so much, that I convinced my wife to get rid of her 1999 Suburban and buy the 2001 Expedition XLT with the 4.6
Does the price of this replacement motor sound right? Whew! big bucks...
Any alternative suggestions would be appreciated.
I change the oil at 7,500 miles and I DO have to keep an eye on the oil level. It uses about a quart of oil about every 1,000-1,500 miles. That would probably bother some people out there, but not me. When I think about what my engine does in those 1,500 miles, it kind of makes sense. At those hot temps some of the oil is going to evaporate and get sucked into the intake through the PCV system. Sorry to hear that your Ford loyalty is being tried. Put in the new engine, and just keep an eye on that oil;-)
Good luck with your truck.
Therefore I was wondering if anyone had any experience (or problems) with these. I know all of the usual things to look for and a truck of this age isnt going to be perfect but did they have any major vices that I should watch out for?
The model I will be looking for is a long bed regular cab V8 auto, probably a 4x4 but I would rule out a 4x2
I back out of the garage this morning, and the same thing happens with the check engine light and SAFE mode. Is anyone else having problems like this?
I bought the truck at 90,000 miles 5 years ago (It has 128,000 currently) and shortly after I started getting a rattling/clanking noise from my engine when traveling at highway speeds (60MPH +). It only does it when in drive (wont make noise when held at the same RPM as on highway while in park) and is inconsistent, meaning that it comes and goes. It also only happens when I am just cruising, so if I press on the gas harder or take my foot off the gas, it stops. This seems to have been a problem since I had a new carburetor put on. I have also done a top engine clean, had my timing adjusted, tried different octanes of gas, and while some things seem to help it, it never goes away completely. I don't know where to go next. Do I look at the distributor for problems with the vacuum advance or do I turn to the electronic spark controller, or is the carburetor the cause of my problems? How about the EGR valve or a vacuum leak? While the noise hasn't really gotten worse in the last 30,000 or so miles that it has been doing this, I am worried about the damage it may be causing to the engine. Plus no one can tell me what the noise is. The truck runs beautifully, and gets about 14 MPH average, which is great, but I don't want to be stranded someplace or have to put in a new engine right now. So, if there are any ideas out there I would be greatly appreciated to hear them:)
This may not be what you have, but if the timing chain tensioner is getting worn, it might be touching the cover and providing you with the unfriendly sounding clanks.
Might be worth a check see, especially if your water pump is getting up there in age (while you're at it).
Good luck and happy trails.
Now, the only battle is trying to figure out how to make the noise appear on this page. I think rattling is a pretty good start, but that can mean a lot of things. To me it sounds like valvetrain noise. Like a rocker arm and pushrod are just flapping all over the place. However, this only happens when I am cuising with a steady foot on the accelerator going 60 MPH +. Another way I can think of this noise is when you take two spoons and hold them together back to back and shake them (haha not sure if this is how that works with the spoons, but I have seen this done with certain music (bluegrass?)) So, take that noise and do it with 3 or 4 sets of spoons rapidly, it would sound like a rattling or clacking. It can be clearly heard inside the cab. Not sure if this is actual detonation or not. I find it strange that it goes away the more I press on the gas. I did forget to mention that I did the top engine clean because the noise became much louder. I was really nervous that something was about to go, and thought that it might be possible that I had carbon buildup in the top end of the engine that was causing the ruckus. 50% of the noise was gone, but quickly came back (100 miles) to the way it was before it became louder. I am about to pour some more money into the engine. I need a new radiator and I have a coolant leak somewhere (not the water pump). So one of these days I will have to get the hood open and spend a day with it. Again, thank you for your help.
JRC
p.s Would the noise coming from the cam cover happen at any other time (idle, acceleration, etc) or just at the times I am describing? I have been told before that this could be a place to look for an issue. Also, would the performance of the fuel pump be effected if this was happening?
You mentioned that the noise started after putting a new carb on it, I wonder if the new one is a perfect match? If not you may have a lean condition in certain ranges. Do you still have the old one by any chance? This is hindsight, but I always prefer to rebuild an old carburetor rathe rthan replace it for fear that the parts store will sell me the wrong one, or one that was rebuilt with the wrong metering valves etc.
It could be a million things, hopefully it's not engine trouble.
JRC
I needed a truck that could pull a 5000lb trailer and since my first (and last) GMC experience left me incapable of ever giving them a dime again I was left between Ford and Toyota. I'd had Toyotas since '76 and Fords before that. The '03 5.4 Flareside Supercab I eventually got came in at about $2k less than the Toy due to incentives, etc. After about 3 months of ownership I am surprised how bad the wind noise is at highway speeds with a crosswind. It sounds like the window is cracked open but it isn't, and switches from side to side depending which side the wind is coming from. Is this common with this body style? The other thing I noticed is that I am spoiled from my "97 Jimmy SLT's dual sun visors with the slide out extensions. The ones on the Ford PU leave a huge open area in the center of the windshield that is more than just a little annoying. Do the Lariat models have something better? I can give up my super dooper 6 way power seat, but driving into the sun is almost impossible. Any thoughts?
#587 of 605 `03 First Impressions by busman01 [ United States of America ] Feb 16, 2004 (8:04 am)
1. I too had the wind noise issue in my supercab. Turns out the back door was not closed completely. Shut it well and the wind issue should be resolved.
2. I have the Lariat and I too long for extended visors.
#588 of 605 spoom by jrc346 [ United States of America ] Feb 16, 2004 (9:48 am)
These trucks are supposed to be pretty quiet. If you don't care for the noise, take it back to your dealer and have them fix it. The least they could do is replace the door seal:)
Thanks guys, the rear doors are fully shut and it only does it when there is a crosswind at highway speeds. Bummer that there aren't any usable visors from Ford. Is every one else driving blind too, or are there some aftermarket ones out there anyone has found. I can't imagine driving the truck for years like this. I'm 5'8", shorter drivers must be going through worse than me.
I hope you got the pre-formed wires with plugs already on both ends. I've never have very good luck in cutting wires and getting what I thought was good connections out of those 'make your own' wire sets. If you've done this, I recommend you get another set of pre-formed ones.
In general, you must have a short somewhere in the ignition or charging wiring. I can't give you any more advise about where to look. Unless there is some kind of open connection in the alternator that moisture is getting to, it should be in a wire.
Something you might try - get a spray bottle that will put out a strong mist. Start that sucker up in a dark place and start misting around in various places. You might be able to see a electric arc, or you might be able to narrow the search down when the spray hits a certain area under the hood. Keep away from the fan in the dark!!!!
Another thought. On Fords of mid/late 70's, there were a lot of problems with an electronic ignition control box. These problems were mostly caused by heat. My wife had a 1978 Tbird that would not start hot. I put a bag of ice on this box (on driver side fender well), and after a few minutes it fired right up! And the after market parts places had the 'box', and said they sold a lot of them.
Happy hunting!
By changing the tires/wheels you're probably not hurting anything. The new rubber is about 1.5 inches bigger in diameter - so as long as it doesn't rub on the insides of the front wheel wells when you're making tight turns, everything should be fine. You had the speedometer ratio changed, so everything should be reading accurately.
Only shortcoming with the larger diameter tires is that you lowered your final drive ratio a bit. Not sure what's in your F150, but if it started out with say 3.23:1 rear axle, the result with the bigger tires might now correspond to like a 3.08:1 ratio. Not a real big drop, but you might notice that the truck is a little bit slower off the line, and has a somewhat harder time getting up to speed if towing a load. However, there's a small benefit, at highway speed you may get an extra mpg or two.
Folks who go to the real big tires alot of times end up changing out the rear-end gears to a higher ratio to restore the power that they lost.
I now remember a mistake I made years ago.
I had 72 Corvette with true dual exhausts. After replacing the right muffler two times, and the left one was still good, I came up with the great idea of wiring the 'flapper' open on the right exhaust manifold. This would, according to my brillant mind, allow the right exhaust system, including the muffler, to warm up more, especially on those short trips which were obviously leaving lots of water in the right muffler and rotting it out in a short time. (Remember, this was the days of leaded gas, and muffler replacement was a normal maintenance item. Unleaded gas saves us from this problem.)
Of course, this weighted flapper and spring valve was dirverting hot exhaust gas across the base of that Quadjet carb.
Wiring it open caused the car to be deadly. It would start ok when cold. But from an idle, pressing on the gas would cause it to drop dead! After almost being rear-ended a few times at stoplights when the light turned green and I have a stalled out Corvette, I decided my life and my fiberglass bodywork was worth more than the cost of a muffler. Unwiring it solved all the problems I had caused.
Check this old Ford to see if the carb is getting heat!
Steve