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2007 and newer Chevrolet Tahoe and GMC Yukon

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Comments

  • dettltzdettltz Member Posts: 14
    Just added a custom grill to my LTZ. Love the look, but I'm wondering if anyone's heard of any cooling issues. The new grill seems like it would block off a lot the normal air flow through the grill. L.A. can get hot in the summer. Will I be sacrificing temperature for looks? :confuse:
  • 07tahoeguy07tahoeguy Member Posts: 16
    I had a rattle that was driving me crazy, but it was coming from the temp sensor unit above the drivers head. The wire was loose and it rattled, hard to tell were it was coming from and it got louder when I lowered the driver's side sun visor. Hope that helps.
  • tdohtdoh Member Posts: 298
    I know that VC--my brother owns a window tint shop and deals w/ quite a few folks who want their front windshield completely tinted. In any case...I don't understand what the point of your reply was supposed to be.
  • hoetahoeta Member Posts: 3
    I put a billet grill on a couple months ago. Live in AZ, already has been 100 here, have had no cooling issues at all.
  • dettltzdettltz Member Posts: 14
    No rattle in mine. Does it rattle regardless of window position? Even when it's shut tight? Sounds like something the dealer should fix.
  • justamom2justamom2 Member Posts: 8
    I have a drivers side door rattle aswell. We can't figure out what it is either.
  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    It's a GM product, rattles are standard equipment. My suburban with 65k miles has so many squeaks and rattles I don't even pay attention anymore.
  • 07tahoecop07tahoecop Member Posts: 4
    I have Verizon Wireless as my cell phone company. You can add your Onstar phone as another line for $9.99 a month. It shares all of your regular cell phone features; free nights and weekends, free long distance, as well as the 1400 minutes I have on my plan. Also free Verizon to Verizon in-calling. The regular phone service through Onstar is 100 minutes for $39.99 a month. Its real nice having Verizon and getting to use the Onstar phone for $9.99 month. The calls are crystal clear as well.
  • junglegeorgejunglegeorge Member Posts: 129
    Where are you located, we can not use Verizon and OnStar on the same plan here in upstate NY.
  • junglegeorgejunglegeorge Member Posts: 129
    IMHO you must either drive real hard or you have a lemon. I have had 12 Chevy SUV's (all purchased new) in the past 23 years, I am yet to have a rattle. Chevy is #1 in my book.
  • rrguyrrguy Member Posts: 4
    I also have signed up for the Onstar / Verizon account and I think its great! I use it all over Caifornia and had have no reception problems :).
  • summersbysummersby Member Posts: 6
    How does the dialing work? Do you hit the onstar button to dial? Does it use voice recognition or do you have to use an operator?

    Im still torn on the tinting issue. I dont want to screw up my NAV with metallic tint, but tinted only doesnt help with the heat like metallic does.
  • justamom2justamom2 Member Posts: 8
    it uses voice recognition. Its very clear. Sometimes it will dial the wrong person if you have similar names in your saved book. But I love it anyway! Totally worth the 9.99 a month!
    I do have a question about that though. Once the first year of Onstar is up...do you have to continue paying for onstar to use the verizon service on the system? I have had several Tahoes and Blazers with Onstar and never renewed it after the free year...because I have not needed it. Anybody know?
  • awf_axisawf_axis Member Posts: 136
    I am providing some comments on the new 6.2 Ltr engine with 6spd tranny while towing.

    * Please note that the Denali 6.2 eng. is the same as the Escalades. The Escalade is tuned for Premium Fuel, so that's why it claims a few more horses. The Denali's torque rating is 2 lbs different, so they are equivalent by most standards.

    The total weight of the boat/trailer is 4200 lbs. Tongue weight is about 350 lbs (depends on fuel in boat).

    We went to a lake that's about 55 miles from home (Mother's Day outing). It required driving 20 miles on I-80 (over Donner Summit in the Sierra Nevada), and 30 miles on Hwy 20 to Nevada City. These roads are up and down, and Highway 20 has several 30 mph hairpins. There are several steep uphill and downhill grades, which RV's typically go 30mph floored (up).

    As indicated in my previous post, the reason I wanted the new GM was mostly because of the transmission. The previous GM 4 spds left much to be desired, since any uphills required 2nd gear, 4-5k rpm engine speeds to keep up with traffic.

    I'm am really happy about how the Escalade handles the hills. I usually would manually hold gears in the old GM's, but in the 6 spd, I just put it in TOW mode, and it does some amazing things (IMO).

    Going UP, the tranny would find a gear that did not require more than 3500 rpms (staying around 60mph). This meant that I could still STOMP on it, and get the next lower gear to pass (up hill).

    Going DOWN, the tranny would dn-shift anytime you slowed down. The gear it will shift to depends on how much brake you are applying. On one stretch of brake smoking downhill, I would normally manually downshift into 2nd gear (old GM) just to maintain about 60. However, even with the trailer equiped with 4 whl discs, it would still require some brake pressue to maintain speed. The Caddy dn-shifted into a gear that kept the engine around 4k rpm, and I did not have to apply brakes.

    It was a little un-nerving to have it do this at first, but once I understood the relationship between braking pressure, and the auto dn-shifts, it was welcome. No more using the shift selector to control speeds up or down. The OLD GM's would do too much gear seeking in just tow-mode, and this was annoying. Also, the Caddy's shifts are not as harsh like the tow-mode in the old 4 spd.

    The "old GMs" I refer to is an '01 Denali and '05 Denali XL.

    Dave

    <img src="http://home.pacbell.net/borwick/img_2301.jpg"
  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    That is music to my ears. The issues you mentioned regarding towing with the 4speed is why I will not buy a new Tahoe/Suburban that currently comes with a 4 speed only.

    My boat weighs right around 4800lbs and hills can be downright painful with my 5.3 4speed powered Suburban.

    Thanks for the detailed report. It answered many of my questions. Sharp looking rig.
  • junglegeorgejunglegeorge Member Posts: 129
    Sounds great!!! Just $9.95 for the on-star, What does your Verizon plan cost, how many minuets ?
  • rrguyrrguy Member Posts: 4
    The onstar rep I talked to said I have to have an active Onstar account in order for Verizon account to work.
  • landy manlandy man Member Posts: 39
    My LT-3 with just over 5000 miles now sounds like a rattle trap. The door seals seem to be the culprit-they seem rub the inside of the doors over uneven roads. I have tried silicone spray and WD-40 but both wash off after rainfalls. Any suggestions?
  • cecookcecook Member Posts: 23
    Hey all, very informative forum. I've got a question for you pros out there... I am going to install a set of Helo Skid 20" wheels with 305/50/20 Nitto Terra Grappler tires. Do I need the 20x9.0 or the 20x8.5 so that the tire/wheel combo wont stick out of my fender well? Any advice on wheel offset as well? Also, never had Terra Grapplers or that size before....any words from the wise?
  • awf_axisawf_axis Member Posts: 136
    First of all, the rim width you are looking at are marginal, at best. On a 305x50x20 tire, the tread cross-section is 11-12 inches wide. Usually, a 9.5 is MINIMUM. An 8.5" rim will make the side-walls curve into the rim, which is not good, and any tire installer will tell you the same. The 9.5" will work, but even so, a 10" rim is ideal.

    FYI: The factory tires with 20x8.5" rims are 275x55x20.

    As for the off-set, the 2007 design requires a higher positive off-set than in previous years. The factory rims on a 9" rim (22x9) is 31mm (I have an '07 Escalade with 22x9 wheels).

    The best you can do right now is find a 9.5" wheel, with at least 20mm to 36mm positive off-set. Otherwise, your tires will be outside the fenders, and throw water, mud, sand onto your mirrors and up the doors. Also, it makes the vehicle look odd, but that's a subjective opinion.

    Good luck,

    Dave
  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    Be sure you don't confuse offset and back spacing. They are two different animals.
  • big3cwbig3cw Member Posts: 1
    ok heres the deal....... Gm still offers the 5.3 liter engine in the yukon and tahoe and uses the displacement on demand, but some people still want more power so they offer a 6.2 liter engine in the denali and the escalade. the new 6.2 gets better mileage than the old 5.3. So instead of just one engine there are many options to choose from. So before you turn on the american auto industry and go japanese (which would be a terrible decision.) Just remember the domestic auto companies put whats best for their people out on the market. The american SUV's are far superior to any [non-permissible content removed] one on the market. So remember- what you drive, drives america. have a nice day
  • cecookcecook Member Posts: 23
    Thanks Dave for your help.

    If thats the case then now Im stuck wondering... What damage could running the smaller rim width on a 305/50/20 do? I am now considering going to a 22" rim to help fill out the 305s. What sizes of rim and tire would you suggest in my searches as an owner of a similar vehicle with 22s? Another issue is tires... I want some that are aggressive enough to do well in dirt and rain but still would like a smooth and quiet ride. Any recs for brand and size for either 20 or 22" rims? Again thanks in advance for all help.
  • awf_axisawf_axis Member Posts: 136
    The problem would be better explained by a tire specialist, but just visualize the angle of the sidewall being tilted into the rim. The tire would be forced to support the weight in a place that it wasn't designed for. You are in essence pinching in the sidewalls into the rim, which will cause the radial section to have more curvature. You will have more wear in the center of the tire too.

    I would imagine that if you had a blowout, the tire manufacturer would not warrant such an application.

    The "filling out" of a 305 isn't remedied by a larger diameter. This measurement is the width. If you go 20" or 22", you still need a wider rim.

    The thing about going to a 22" rim is that you will need a lower profile tire, meaning 40 or 45 ratio. On the Escalade, they are running 285x45x22 on a 22x9 wheel. If you went to a 305x40x22 tire, then a 10" width is recommended. A 305x45x22 tire could get away with a 9.5" width. These "recommendations" come from an on-line tire vendor. You can also see the diameter differences that come about as well.

    http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp

    There are significant changes to diameter depending on the wheel combo you select. The difference in diameter in the 305x40x22 and 305x45x22 tires is over 1 inch. This changes the mileage attained and MPH readings as well. It's not simple to recalibrate the computer either. You have to buy an aftermarket programmer to do it, because the dealers typically won't do it. Long story.

    Finally, you have to consider the ride quality. The more sidewall a tire has, the smoother the ride. A 40 Series tire is firmer than a 50 series, and so on. The benefit is that the lower profile (40 series) will have LESS sidewall flex, and theoretically makes the handling more precise.

    The wider tires, 305 vs. a 275 or 285 has some disadvantage too. Because there is so much more width on the road, you "feel" more, and it also tends to "seek" grooves and ruts in the road. I put 305's on an '01 Denali, and was somewhat dissapointed in the steering because it would literally drive itself whenever there were imperfections in the road. I live in snow country, and tire chain usage creates ruts in the asphalt. The tire's edges would try to drive up the ruts, steering me left or right, which-ever had the higher edge.

    The Tahoe/Yukon/Escalade rack & pinion steering should reduce this affect, but I can't say for sure. I don't get this senstation with my current setup. On the '01 Denali, I ultimately went to a 275x55x20 with a 20x8.5" wheel, and even though it didn't look as cool, it drove much better.

    If I was in your shoes, I'd probably buy a 20x9.5 wheel, put on some Goodyear 305x50x20's, with a 25mm positive offset. The style would be one that had the lowest rim weight. A flashy wheel with lots of weight makes for poor handling. The best I've seen is a Weld Wheel EVO, which is a 1 pc, forged, chrome wheel, which is extremely lightweight, and several times stronger than most other wheels. Problem is, they are expensive, and hard to find. They have discontinued a few styles.

    You can scan through www.DiscountTireDirect.com for some wheel styles.

    Dave
  • junglegeorgejunglegeorge Member Posts: 129
    Here is another very useful tool
    link title
  • sj110sj110 Member Posts: 13
    I also will be towing my boat which weighs in about the same. I'm currently towing it with my 2001 Yukon. Does the lower GVWR and Rear axle (3.42) make any difference or is the 6 speed the way to go? The normal Yukons and Tahoes have a higher GVWR capability. I'm currently in the market for a new 07 Denali... Thanks.
  • awf_axisawf_axis Member Posts: 136
    I'm going to guess that the differences in weight ratings have more to do with the AWD and suspension than anything else. The 3.42 rear ratio would be an issue if it was mated with the 4spd.

    The fact that the 6spd has a lower 1st gear, and tighter shift ratios means they could get away with a lower final gear. This is what helps with the overal highway fuel economy.

    Based on 8 yrs of towing my boat over the Sierra Nevada mountains, I would never consider a 4 spd again.

    If I was looking for the ultimate tow and GVWR rated vehicle, it would have been a diesel pick-em-up truck.

    However, I don't like diesel, and have two daughters and and 2 grand-kids. The SUV is a must.

    Dave
  • cecookcecook Member Posts: 23
    Dave I really appreciate you taking the time to get me on the right page.

    I think I am one the right page and have found a good combo. What do you think about some 22x9.5 Helo Skids or Helo Kick with 20 offset paired with some 285/45/22 Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenzas? This way I get a nice looking wheel, the rim fits the tire better, there is a good tread pattern on the tire, and hopefully it won't stick out of the fender well.

    Any comments?

    Thanks again for your help/time!
  • junglegeorgejunglegeorge Member Posts: 129
    Great feedback on the Denali, really enjoyed your comments. My dilemma is that I have a 2007 LTZ on order (no build date yet still waiting) to replace my 2004 Tahoe, and I also pull a boar (4500lb). Now that I have heard your comments on the 6 speed, I am second guessing myself. If the Denali (6.2 &#150; 6 speed) and Tahoe LTZ (5.3 4 speed) were comparably equipped the Tahoe&#146;s MSRP would be approximately $2300 ($53,770 - $51,490) less, however the Denali has an estimated MPG of 13-19 compared to the Tahoe with 15-21 (reg gas is still $3.05 here in upstate NY) Does anyone know if Chevy will offer the 5.3 - 6 speed comb in 2008. I would probably lose my $1000 deposit, however I would be willing to lose and wait. My 2004 Tahoe with 5.3 (290 hp) has more than enough power for my needs, and I expect that the 2007 5.3 with 300 hp even with the DOD will exceed the 2004&#146;s ability, plus achieve better fuel economy.
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  • awf_axisawf_axis Member Posts: 136
    Nice looking wheel. The only comment is that the 285 isn't that wide a tire. If you get a chance to see a 2007 Escalade up close with 22s, this will be what you'll see coming and going. The 1/2" wider rim won't be that different.

    The 20mm offset will push the entire wheel out just a tad, but nothing brutal. The factory 22x9 is 31mm, which is 11mm more tucked, and with your 1/2" wider wheel, will put a total of 26mm further out. Certainly not life or death, but again consider the wheel width.

    You might play with doing a 305x40x22 tire, which might be less expensive, but will look more agressive. The only drawback is that the tire is about 4/10ths of an inch smaller in diameter.

    Your tire person may help you out here with this by letting you try it on for looks.

    And yes, you'll have a "firmer" ride with the 40's.

    Dave
  • awf_axisawf_axis Member Posts: 136
    The 6spd will be a selling point for the Denali and Escalade line for up-sell reasons. There needs to be a distinction in the mechanics in order to draw the additional price-point. If you recall, the Denali and Escalade of previous years had a different 4-spd tranny (so called heavy duty), which was supposed to be better than that supplied in the Tahoe/Yukon versions.

    As for the mileage, I'm not so sure that the real-world plays out like the EPA numbers say. I can get 21 mpg on flat road, doing 55 mph. At 65, it becomes 18.5. The DOD engine certainly sounds like it ought to squeak some mileage, but I've seen and heard numerous comments on the DOD kicking in/out, the harmonics being annoying, and many wishing they could disable it.

    The differences would seem minor over the long haul, and I hate the feeling that I could have gotten something a little nicer. The resale is better on the higher end SUV's as well.

    Dave
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    Lose a $1,000 deposit to gain 2 mpg? $1,000 still buys a lot of gas, even at $3 a gallon. If you think your 2004 with the 4-speed is sufficient for your towing needs, then the 2007 with 4-speed will probably also suit you just fine.

    Having said that, I doubt you will lose your deposit. They can sell your LTZ to someone else if you do change your mind.
  • cecookcecook Member Posts: 23
    I saw a new Escalade with the 22s and I think it looks pretty sharp. I think I am good with the look of the 285 tires, so now my problem is trying to find an affordable wheel that is preferrably 22x9 with a large offset. I really dont want any tire sticking out because with a black exterior everything shows. I will settle for a little overhang if I need to. I also like the style of the wheels on the Escalade. I checked out Discounttire but couldnt find anything to my liking. Any other recs of good wheel sites besides the usual ones from google searches?

    Thanks
    Collins
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    junglegeorge, i think it's not legal for the dealer to keep your deposit: if you don't take delivery of the vehicle, you get your deposit back, end of story.
  • awf_axisawf_axis Member Posts: 136
    Agreed on the deposit. I've backed out of 2 deals in the last 10 yrs on ordered vehicles. With the internet, I've managed to find the same configuration in dealer inventory, and because I'm very impatient, have cut and run. In each case, the dealer where the order was made never made a fuss. They "hoped" that some day, I may still do business with them.
  • sj110sj110 Member Posts: 13
    I live in the SF Bay Area and it seems that all the dealers have in inventory is Denalis without the Navigation system and rear camera (which I want). They have MANY Denalis without this. Any reason? They seem to have more Yukons with this option, but no Denalis!
  • noneillnoneill Member Posts: 11
    I understand that the nav systems went on constraint after the Yukon's came available and just after the first round of Denali's hit the ground. I hear it could be quite some time before you can get a nav system from the factory. I am researching aftermarket navs now but so far I haven't been able to find anyone who's got the adaptors for the bose/onstar/wheel controls/ or correct wiring harness as well as a mounting kit. I happen to have ONE factory nav to be installed on a yukon WITH dvd. Don't think there is any others available in the country!
  • zeeman84zeeman84 Member Posts: 16
    I ordered a Tahoe back in the early part of March with the Nav. system and rear camera. These two items were on constrain back then. This is the second GM product I ran into problems with not getting the ordered options I wanted. I was not going to settle for a vehicle which was not going to be configured just the way I wanted it.
    I cancelled my Tahoe order after about a month and ordered a 2006 Explorer with the NAV system from the same dealer. Received my Explorer in about five weeks with the NAV system. Ford does not seem to have a problem building vehicles with this option.
  • shyness36shyness36 Member Posts: 5
    That's it huh? That sucks and really unfair!!!!
  • sj110sj110 Member Posts: 13
    Is there a break in period required prior to towing?
  • ssilverssilver Member Posts: 1
    Hi Dave

    We are investigating an '07 yukon XL or suburban. We tow a 4800 pd RV trailer in the summer(only) we are interested in the DOD but are worried about reliability of new technology. You indicate that you have heard numerous comments on the DOD. Is there a forum out there. We are trying to do some research. Thank you in advance for your help.

    Steve
  • awf_axisawf_axis Member Posts: 136
    Although I've seen some negative comments about the DOD, there isn't any real world issues that I've seen regarding reliability. It seems to be a subjective thing.

    You can do some research right on this website by simply searching on "DOD". You'll have to wade through some threads, but you will start to see some comments such as I have.

    I can't say that the 5.3 wouldn't do a good job. I used to tow my boat with a '96 Suburban 1500, which had a less powerful engine package (5.7 ltr 250hp/325ft/lbs). I never complained about the Suburban, but the Escalade is a big improvement.

    Dave
  • awf_axisawf_axis Member Posts: 136
    The book says that there should be no towing in the first 500 miles. I remember that when I got an '05 Denali, 3 days before Memorial weekend. I had to drive all over to get enough miles so I felt confident pulling the boat to a camping weekend, 200 miles away.

    Dave
  • junglegeorgejunglegeorge Member Posts: 129
    Do you know what is driving the reduction in towing ability, my 04 Tahoe, 3:73, 5.3 &#150; 190 hp, 4 speed auto has a maximum trailer rating of 7400 lbs, the 07-LTZ I have ordered is reduced to 6700 lbs even though the 5.3 is now capable of producing 320 hp, and brakes have been improved. Tire size does not seam to be the issue as the stock 245/70/17 and the optional 265/55/20 have approximately the same diameter as the stock 04 tires.
  • awf_axisawf_axis Member Posts: 136
    Sorry, but I'm not up to speed on the reduced towing. It may be simply a matter of weight. It also could be that the LTZ with its premium ride suspension has some limiting factors.

    The HP is only a component. Torque is more important. And there are considerations on the ability of the cooling system, transmission, axle ratio's etc. in handling the extra loads. You'll note that if you go with a 4.10 rear axle ratio, the towing cap goes up. Also, the 5.7 ltr engine produces more of its power at a lower RPM than the smaller 5.3 ltr engine.

    In the older Suburbans, the greatest towing capacity came with a rear leaf spring suspension, and those ugly steel wheels. For good measure, they offered the 454 big block or diesel.

    Maybe someone else on this post knows the inside scoop.

    Dave
  • junglegeorgejunglegeorge Member Posts: 129
    If I am correct, both the 04, and the 07 both have the 5.3, I do believe that the 5.7 was ever available in the new style.
  • awf_axisawf_axis Member Posts: 136
    You are correct. The 5.7 was retired prior to '01. I'm mostly familiar with the 6.0 ltr ('01 Denali), and the 5.7 in the '96 Suburban, so this didn't cross my mind.

    I would have to guess that its a matter of the newer platform, meaning frame, suspension, curb-weight, cooling, that is made them revise their ratings.

    Dave
  • killenkillen Member Posts: 3
    Has any one notice the rear door weather strip is exposed to the rear wheel well
    I see problems with this design
    I have order a 2007 LTZ. I am having to to re think this
    can any owners tell me there likes ans dislikes
    thanks
  • awf_axisawf_axis Member Posts: 136
    I believe this is part of the double seals used to help make the ride quieter. It also keeps rain and mud from entering the area where the latch is, and on the lower sill. Other than getting some wax on it, and having to put armour-all on it, it doesn't seem that big a deal.

    My wife's BMW has a similar double seal on the rear doors, but they do a better job of hiding it.

    Dave
This discussion has been closed.