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2007 and newer Chevrolet Tahoe and GMC Yukon

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Comments

  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    I've inadvertently pop the rear glass open on mine a couple of times and noticed that it's very hard to tell that it's open. Might check that. I know that's grasping at straws. If it's not that, sounds like a serious gasket problem.
  • fierygemsfierygems Member Posts: 5
    that sounds great, I will look into it and get back to you. Thanks for the offer.
  • cecookcecook Member Posts: 23
    Good to hear that there wasnt any splicing to be done to get the desired effect. id like to get that much light from my setup as well.

    I havent got my set of hid lights yet. I am still searching price, looking for some good install pics, and trying to decide what temp i want. Im thinking about the 6000K because i want a little blue, but im worried anything lower than that will be too bright. Do you have any problems with glare and oncoming traffic? Did you do any reaiming of your headlights?

    Collins
  • tuscotoddtuscotodd Member Posts: 50
    I have the storage compartment on my LT3. It isn't very big mind you - but I have gloves, shop towels, a couple bungy cords, etc in there. Not sure if the compartment is part of a trim/option package or not?
    --
    TuscoTodd
    '07 LT3
  • tony97gttony97gt Member Posts: 20
    I bought the 6000k kit from genuuine auto on ebay. The price was right and the lights look awesome. The 6000k kit is perfect for me. Brightness is perfect with a nice light tints of blue. Installing is kind of a pain in the @$$. Chevy makes these trucks so you have to do surgery to get the headlamps out. I dont know about glare for oncoming traffic, as it's not really my concern. I do know that when i'm speeding down the fast lane and i get behind grandma in the left lane, those lights hit their rearview mirrors with a nice bright blueish light which they can only stand for a few minutes b4 they move outta the fast lane.
  • junglegeorgejunglegeorge Member Posts: 129
    I do not have the storage compartment on the LTZ. Looks like the power liftgate uses the space of the storage compartment. If you get the power liftgate you lose the storage compartment. Hope that helps.
  • nacho07nacho07 Member Posts: 26
    Hey did you ever find that rear chrome bowtie? I was at Sams Club the other day and saw a Tahoe that had both front and back chrome, i asked and he reffered me to a place here in Riverside California. They sell them for 39 bucks each. Wondering if you found any on the web or any pics.
  • rockin_ltzrockin_ltz Member Posts: 61
    Hey Collins...The 6000K is plenty bright and I can see your concerns with anything lower being a problem. I did not do any adjusting or re aiming of the headlamps as it didn't appear to really be needed based on the beam projection on my garage door. Also...I haven't had anybody yet flashing their lights at me as if it were bothering them...But I can say when standing in front of the truck about 75 feet down the road these baby's are bright!

    Unlike the other post about not being concerned about the overall brightness...I think this seriously needs to be evaluated. Nothing like driving on a dark 2 lane road and blinding the oncoming traffic with your HID's. I personally find that a little worry some.

    I did post some pics a few pages back of my HID's...Did you see them? If not I can try and repost them. Let me know.
  • nosbor77nosbor77 Member Posts: 40
    apparently you can pop the gold plate off with a small flat screw driver and you get nice crome underneath. Just be carefull with the screwdriver against"> the crome.
  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    Thanks to all for the info. That probably explains the outline of a storage compartment door on the side behind the left rear seat.

    Wonder what they stuck behind the right rear wheel?
  • junglegeorgejunglegeorge Member Posts: 129
    The rear AC condenser, on a hot humid day you should see the condensation condense and drain under the truck in this area.
  • gcmartingcmartin Member Posts: 19
    I have negotiated a deal on a loaded LTZ 2x4 Tahoe and my dealer is having trouble getting one transferred from other dealers. I have searched all dealers within a hundred miles of my city and given the list to my salesman. Anyone have any pointers to get the deal done quickly so I can get my Tahoe?

    Any help would be appreciated...
  • tony20fantony20fan Member Posts: 30
    I got advice from Rockin, but felt that installing the billet grill and tow hooks myself might be too much for me, even though his look great. I took my Tahoe into the local body shop and got the grill, tow hook billet grills, chrome bow tie and also all the Tahoe insignia removed and it's gorgeous. What a difference in the look of the front of the vehicle. Some girls want diamonds, some want pearls, but this girl wanted a billet grill for her birthday and my husband agreed. Definitely the best looking present ever. I'm very pleased, but, like Nacho, I'm also am looking for the rear chrome bow tie. The body shop guy said the one for the front is too curved for the back. He could get the one for the front, pound it flatter and then repolish it to see if it would work, but it's a $99 dollar gamble as that's how much the front one costs. I think I may have the whole thing removed all together - just have him fill in the holes in the back. I'm still debating. Please post if you find an alternative. I'll see if I'm computer savvy enough to post my new grill. Also, thanks to whoever posted the website about the rear fascia cover, I had that installed too. Love it!!
  • nacho07nacho07 Member Posts: 26
    I called the place this guy referred me to and they sell the rear chrome one for 39.00 bucks. The guy on the phone described it as a stick on. He says you remove the old one and stick this one on. I saw it on a tahoe and it looks really nice, i am thinking of driving there tommorrow and will let you know how it looks.
  • ltzinltzin Member Posts: 15
    I bought a billet rear bowtie and put it on and did not like it. It was just a flat bowtie. I read some of the other comments about removing just the gold bowtie so I tried it. It looks great better than the one I purchased because it is three dim. I recommend using a hard pice of plastic instead of a screw driver, just insert it right under one of the corners of the gold bowtie an pry towards you. make sure you are wearing safety glasses because mine broke into two parts. Once the gold part is off you just have to remove the double sided tape that held it on to the chrome bowtie underneath.
  • gcmartingcmartin Member Posts: 19
    How much did the kit cost and where did you buy it?
  • rockin_ltzrockin_ltz Member Posts: 61
    GCMartin...Check out post #1279 a few pages back. I gave a link to the website and all the other details. Hope this helps.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Sometimes all it takes is fishing line or dental floss. Check out the Removing stickers, labels, decals, glue, sap... discussion.
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    Sorry to hear that. What Chevy told you sounds right though. Both the 2003 Trailblazer i6 and the 2004 Silverado 5.3l improved noticably somewhere after the 8-10k mark. The Trailblazer actually hit the 22mpg mark locally right before I traded it for the truck, while the truck's best was around 21.7. The truck was routinely getting mid to upper 19's and occasionally into the low 20's when I traded it a week and a half ago (my new 07 Av came in finally- WOOHOO :shades: ).

    The Av has ranged between 17.3 and 21.4 mpg so far, with the 21.4 being all highway (but quite a bit of steep interstate). It has just over 2000 miles on it now, because we took it for a trip home to visit family in WV. Considering I ordered it with the 4.10 rear end (for towing purposes) it's doing outstanding right now and should get better with time, as yours should. I'd expect the 3.73 equipped vehicle to do maybe 1-2 mpg better on the highway than mine though.
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    Had the same exact problem and solution with my Avalanche. As far as I know there isn't a way to change when the seat returns to your position (driver 1 or 2). I've turned off the easy exit function, but left the driver position memory feature on. So now my seat only moves when the person unlocking / driving is different than the last time the Av was driven. I figure it's easier on the seat motor not to be running all the time, especially since I have to deal with the normal seated position when entering anyway. :P
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    You didn't disable anything concerning the way the low/highbeam headlights work on the 2007 when you installed your HIDs. The low beams stay on with the high beams now (just like on my Avalanche). Evidently GM / Chevy has been watching enthusiast web sites and picked up on the fact that this has been an extremely common mod in the past and decided to take that into consideration when designing the new trucks. :)
  • dettltzdettltz Member Posts: 14
    Nacho...

    Yeah, I ended up finding a rear bowtie on e-bay. Looks nice, but not as nice as the one I did for the front. Front one has a lot more depth to it, looks more finished. But they're both a huge improvement on the factory gold.

    DettLTZ
  • cecookcecook Member Posts: 23
    Good to hear that the 6000K light works well. I like that color and range from your pics. I also like the look on the front end now that there have been some additions.

    I did catch your pics and Im all in for getting me the kit. I am hesitant on getting one so far because im still price shopping and have been hoping that someone would post some installation pics from the kit being put in. Im semi handy when it comes to tools but with it being a new ride and all im nervous to start popping stuff off.

    Collins
  • rockin_ltzrockin_ltz Member Posts: 61
    Collins...I can feel your pain about tearing into a new $50K ride as I too was very hesitant about what I've done so far. HOWEVER, to be totally honest with you...I can be deadly when a tool is put in my hand. I have absolutely NO Mechanical knowledge or experience, so if I can do these mods ANYBODY with a pulse should be able to do them!!

    The HID installation basically requires you to remove 2 screws on each headlamp assembly so you can pull it away from the body to remove and reinstall the bulbs. Other than that, it's just a little tight in running the wires to the ballast and securing the ballast. Once that's done...Just push the headlamp assembly back in and replace the 2 screws and you're done!!

    Now the Billet Grill was a little more difficult...But again, I did it myself. Hard part was the lower (tow hook grills) and this took a little more time to do. The upper 2 piece grill was just a bolt over and only took about 10 minutes to install.

    I think you will be fine with the installations...Give it a shot!!
  • alexmansfieldalexmansfield Member Posts: 2
    Does the Escalade tailights fit directly to Chevy Tahoe tailights? Where can I get a lift kit and supercharger for my 2007 Tahoe LT3?
  • kssoonerkssooner Member Posts: 10
    You can do this and the bowtie under is very 3-D looks great..Just curious is the gold bowtie on the front emblem attached the same way? If, so then the possibly of the a solid black bowtie is there.
  • tony97gttony97gt Member Posts: 20
    When I installed my HID Kit, I removed the headlamps completely. I am not sure how I got them out at the time, but I did. Now that they are back in again, I cant seem to get them out. Doesn't really matter because you dont have to remove them completely to install the kit. Keep in mind that there is a 3rd screw that holds the assembly in place. You can access it by popping out two of the plastic anchors and removing one screw in the wheel well. They are located along the outside edge of the wheel wells directly in front of the tires. This is also a screw that you want to tighten up when your done to hold your headlamps into place snug. My ballast wasn't working right on my new kit so I returned it, when I get it back and re-install it I will try to take some pics and post 'em to help out. I'm still skeptical on removing that gold bowtie, but I think I'm gonna knock that out too when I re-install the ballast. But those lights look really sharp in 6000k.
  • rockin_ltzrockin_ltz Member Posts: 61
    Hey Tony97gt...I tried my hardest to get the entire headlamp assembly off of the truck but was unable to fully remove it. However, I didn't loosen or remove any other screws like you mentioned in the wheel well (didn't even know there was one in there attached to the headlamp assembly). Nevertheless, when I removed the 2 (obvious) screws the headlamp assemblies would pull far enough out that I could get my hand in to replace the bulbs. It would have been MUCH easier if I could have got the entire headlamp assembly to separate from the truck...But no matter how hard I pulled and tugged it wouldn't come off!!!

    All in all, it's an easy mod for anybody to do if they want...And also a really cool looking one too!!!
  • nacho07nacho07 Member Posts: 26
    I realize some of you may think this is an easy install (and it pretty much is) but just wanted to post these pics so you guys that have not done it yet and want to can see some of the process.

    Front bowtie was easy. I removed the 2 nuts from behind the grill and with some minor tugging pulled it off (there is some adhesive besides the 2 screws so it requires some slight pulling it just doesnt slip off). Installed the new chrome bowtie and secured it with 2 washers and nuts.

    The back bowtie took some more elbow grease. I put some tape down so it could guide me on where to put the new one on. First to remove it i used fishing line. The line kept snapping so my son held a blowdryer on it as i worked with the line and after a few minutes i was able to pull it off. Lots of adhesive was left I used goo gone to remove it all (this took quite some time of rubbing and applying goo gone). After all the adhesive was gone i wiped the area down with a cleaner and water so the new adhesive would stick correctly. I applied the new bowtie.

    Hopefully this will help some of you since this board has helped me so much.

    http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e26/Nachito909/PanasonicCamera053.jpg

    http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e26/Nachito909/PanasonicCamera054.jpg

    http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e26/Nachito909/PanasonicCamera058.jpg

    http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e26/Nachito909/PanasonicCamera063.jpg

    http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e26/Nachito909/PanasonicCamera066.jpg">link title
  • tony20fantony20fan Member Posts: 30
    Thanks so much for posting the pics, Nacho. Where did you get the chrome bow tie for the rear? Did you say that it is near Riverside, CA? That's not too long of a drive for me. Yours looked great and so much better than the gold!! I already had the front done. It was $99 for the piece from the dealer. That seemed steep, but worth it for the look. Hope the rear is less. :confuse:
  • nacho07nacho07 Member Posts: 26
    Place is called Gilmores. Its in Riverside. He sells them for 39.99 a piece. Phone # (951) 788-4814. When i bought mine i asked if he would mail stuff and he said yes so if you are far you can call him. It looks really nice after you are done, i just need a pair of chrome license plate holders now.
  • texastahoetexastahoe Member Posts: 5
    Not sure if we are talok ing about the same thing. I have a noise that sounds like a clicking in the roof directly behind the front seats. Only on bumps. Almost sounds like a rollover detector or something, but now that I've keyed in on it, it drives me crazy. That and the rubber moulding on the top of the entire rear gate when it opens , sometimes it gets stuck up under the frame. Other than that, my 07 LTZ has been treating me well for 4k miles.
  • 1atom121atom12 Member Posts: 2
    I'm getting ready to pull the base stock radio and install my Eclipse NAV unit. I know that the auto volume on the stock radios are fed via the LAN. Does anyone know where I can pick up a "real" speed sense wire for input to my NAV unit?
  • tony20fantony20fan Member Posts: 30
    Thanks again for the info, Nacho. I'll give him a call. I've not yet put on my license plates as I, too, am looking for chrome license plate holders. I'll post if I find something that looks good.
  • mgzmgz Member Posts: 1
    Hi! Guys

    Can someone advice, I have an 07 Yukon with about 1600 miles. After 900 miles I noticed that my Yukon starts shaking a little when not moving (at parking or at a stop sign) I also noticed a strong jerk in the transmission when I go from park to reverse to drive. Has anyone else had this problem before? According to the dealership the vehicle is still "breaking in". I’ve had a 2001 Yukon and a 2004 Denali before but never recall having this problem. Also can some one advice me on how to take care of the cloth interior the quality is not as great as it is on other gm's. After bring it home I noticed that the seats were full of lent, should have upgraded to leather, the only problem was I had to pay for my school loans, can’t trade it either because of the depreciation, “according to the dealership”. Thanks for an advice.
  • tahoedavetahoedave Member Posts: 9
    I recently traded up (way up) from a '97 F-150 to a '07 Tahoe LTZ. I need to find the proper ball mount to tow my Floe gull-wing style enclosed snowmobile trailer. With my F-150, I used a straight ball mount (little to no drop). The Tahoe, however, appears to sit much higher off the ground. From the ground to the top of the ball mount hole is 25" but from the ground to the bottom of the trailer coupler is only 13". Do I really need a 12" drop ball mount? I'm not even sure they make such a thing. What I would ideally like is an adjustable, cushioned ball mount. Being that the F-150 is the only vehicle I've ever towed with, can someone with more towing experience give me a hand? Thanks.
  • stormin800stormin800 Member Posts: 39
    TahoeDave,
    I own an 07 Yukon. I believe the rear bumper hitch is identical on both SUVs (mine also 25inches to the top of the hitch hole). I also own and have towed my Floe 12ft gull wing enclosed snowmobile trailer this spring. I installed a 5 1/4 inch drop and it seemed to trailer very well. No swaying at all. Hope this helps
  • tahoedavetahoedave Member Posts: 9
    Norm, Thanks for the info. Sounds like we have the same trailer (dual axle). Based on my measurements, I'm surprised to hear that the 5 1/4 inch drop was enough for you. Is the trailer level when hooked up? Do you know if your trailer measures the same height off the ground when level and not hooked up as mine (13 inches)? Thanks. Dave
  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    How high was your F150 hitch hole off the ground?

    Unless it had been lowered or was 2WD, I can't imagine it was a foot lower than the Tahoe.
  • tahoedavetahoedave Member Posts: 9
    I can't imagine it was a foot lower either. That's why I am curious to see if maybe others have towed with both. It was 4WD and had not been lowered. It had smaller wheels than the Tahoe but that couldn't account for all the difference. I never had a need to measure the F150 and I traded it in so can't do it now. If anyone else has one, it was a '97 F150 XLT. Thanks again.

    Dave
  • awf_axisawf_axis Member Posts: 136
    I tow a boat that is really touchy on the height. Going from an '05 Denali to the '07 Escalde, I discovered exactly a 5 inch height difference ('07 Higher). I ended up flipping my hitch over (I had to raise it in the '05 truck).

    I also use a cushioned ball-mount, and you can get them with 4" drops.

    Dave
  • stormin800stormin800 Member Posts: 39
    Dave,
    I am unable to measure the height off the ground to level trailer height for the snowmobile trailer, as it is parked at my home in northern vermont. I do believe 13 inches seems about right. Right now I am trailering a 20ft pontoon boat around. It has a 15 inch level height. The Yukon trailers it very well, except it seems to buck a little. I do not have a cushioned ball which may help this problem. As you can see from other comments on the forum, it seems that a drop of 4 to 6 inches is being used on the 07 GM SUVs.It is trailer dependent. Keep it level and have fun.
  • catahoecatahoe Member Posts: 15
    Looking to upgrade the tires on my 2007 LT Tahoe. Will LT285/70R17/D fit without rub? Have a few makes and models I am looking at. Have made sure the spec's of the replacements I am looking at meet and exceed the tires that came on the vehicle.

    (Original tires)
    Bridgestone Dueler H/T D684 II P265/70R17
    Overall tire dia - 31.9", Overall sec width - 10.4"

    (Replacement tires)
    BFG TA KO LT285/70R17/D
    Overall tire dia - 32.8", Overall sec width - 11.5"

    Wrangler Silent Armor LT285/70R17/D
    Overall tire dia - 32.8", Overall sec width - 11.5"

    Toyo Open Country LT285/70R17/D
    Overall tire dia - 32.7", Overall sec width - 11.3"

    If LT285/70R17 won't fit very easy then I might look into:

    Wrangler Silent Armor LT275/70R17/C
    Overall tire dia - 32.2", Overall sec width - 11"

    Toyo Open Country LT265/70R17/C
    Overall tire dia - 31.6", Overall sec width - 10.6"

    Or I my go with the Skyjacker C720MS or Fabtech FTS21039 2" spacer if thats what I need to do to get room for the 285/70R17's.

    Anyone have any experience or advice in this tire size on the '07 Tahoe's? Cant believe no one has bolted 285/70R17 on yet.

    THANKS! :shades:
  • 84jeepjohn84jeepjohn Member Posts: 7
    Do you have any links or other info regarding these 2" spacers?
    This is what I've been looking for :) The wife does not want the 4" lift, so I'll have to compromise. This is what I was hoping someone would come out with.
  • catahoecatahoe Member Posts: 15
    Why yes I do

    http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/GM_IFS_07.htm

    (1/2 way down the page)

    and

    http://performancelifts.com/cgi-bin/cart/FTS21039.html
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    If you change tire size I think you will have to re-program
    the tire pressure sensors for your DIC information. At least thats the way it works with Suburbans.
  • catahoecatahoe Member Posts: 15
    Oh yeah I'm sure they will have to be reprogrammed to the new tire pressure. But will the 285/70R17 (stock rims) fit? Without the 2" leveling kit Thats the bigger question
  • deovindicedeovindice Member Posts: 11
    I have an 07 Yukon SLT 4wd. The first thing I did was put a set of LT295/70R17 Nitto Terra Grapplers on the stock 17" wheels it came with. The front fit was tight, but the only time rubbing would occur was when the front wheel was turned all the way (making a three point turn for example), and even then it was minimal.

    Since, and not because of this, I've installed the Fabtech spacer kit to level the vehicle and provide more front clearance. This solved both problems. I haven't seen that anybody else on this board has done it yet, so I'll give you brief input on the leveling kit. The job takes about two hours or so by someone with a really good garage, otherwise, have your local 4x4 shop do it. Also, make sure to get an alignment done after its completed. As to the ride quality, I have noticed exactly zero difference since having it installed.

    I know, I know, this thread needs picturs. I'll get some this coming weekend and post on here to give y'all a better idea of the results.
  • deovindicedeovindice Member Posts: 11
    One other thing, yes, I had to have the tire pressure monitors recalibrated, but only once and they have worked like a champ since. You need to remember that when purchasing an aftermarket tire like a Nitto that in this case you are moving to an 8 ply tire...which can be run at a lower tire pressure due to the lighter weight of the Yukon/Tahoe. They are built for heavier vehicles and putting the "recommended" air pressure in them will only result in a stiff ride...perhaps slight better mileage, but negligible I would think.
  • 84jeepjohn84jeepjohn Member Posts: 7
    So no one has needed to lift the rear on these? Last time I was out looking at a Burb it "looked" level. They do not need the spacers for the rear?
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