Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

1121315171843

Comments

  • bfassettbfassett Member Posts: 17
    #144 of 144 4x4 trouble by bfassett Sep 15, 2004 (11:14 am)

    Reply
    I have a 2002 F-150, long bed with a tow package small V-8.I recently bought a car to help keep gas costs down and the truck sits for extended periods of time- only 200 miles this summer..I am having a great deal of trouble getting into 4 wheel drive.I don't want to force it ,but most of the time it won't go in,Any thoughts.Also the Service Engine Light is staying on and it is running VERY rough.Thanks
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Think you need to use the truck just a tiny bit more.
    I've seen more stupid problems with vehicles suffering from lack of use than ones that are driven every day. My Mom had 15 year old Plymouth that only had 28K miles on it - we ended up junking it because every gasket, seal , and piece of rubber in it was randomly disintegrating and the car had become a too much of a liability for an old lady to drive.
     As far as your truck goes: sounds like possibly the lubrication in the front hubs has gotten dry and stiff from lack of use. (Take it this is a manual 4wd, and not shift of the fly) Even though I bought my 4x4 for winter use, I still will engage it once every week or two during the summer. I either go on a straight stretch of road for a couple miles, or hit a gravel road that's nearby. Unfortunately, if it's the hubs, don't know what to do besides pulling them and re- lubing them. (Also have you been off roading or anything - check to see if any linkages have gotten bent.)
       Is this the "check engine" light or maintenance indicator (not familiar w/ newer 150s) that's on. As far as the check engine and rough running, you could have a fuel problem. As gas sits for long periods, it tends to turn to "varnish" and gums things up. It could also be water in the fuel; if tank is only part way full and it sits for a while, water vapor can contaminate it.
       If it's your check engine light on, it's throwing a service code - Autozone will scan your engine computer and report problems for free. That would be the best place to start.,
      Odds are you probably need a fresh tank of gas. A replacement fuel filter, and maybe a dedicated cleaning of your fuel injectors by a mechanic with something a bit stronger than a bottle of STP injector cleaner.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Bubbles in the fluid could have been old fluid that had become aerated. You should consider paying a shop to do a full fluid replacement (not just draining what's in the pan), making sure the correct recommended fluid is filled. This usually runs around $150. Hard shifts sound like a sticking accumulator piston which can sometimes be cured with new fluid.
  • alexdalexd Member Posts: 1
    That is about the same time I noticed mine. I'm at 19k now and I've had it in to the dealership three times since. Each time they tell me that ford has a TSB out and basically all it says to do is lube some area in the rear axle and then send you on your way. It doesn't work. I've been told to document the issue by taking it back to the dealership regularly. I wish Ford would hurry up and figure this out. I don't want to deal with this when my warranty has expired.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    You know what, I've got a light howling in my rear axle as well. Admittedly, my axle is probably different than yours - I have an F-350 dually. I notice it most in 6th gear over 50 mph. It goes away when I take my foot off the accelerator. I have 157,5xx miles on my truck now. The noise hasn't gotten any worse, the gear lube has never looked overheated nor do the gears look worn. At first it bothered me, but now it doesn't anymore.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Your symptom is characteristic of either incorrect ring gear backlash or pinion depth. Could be the result of worn teeth on the ring or pinion gears.

    The rear axle lubricant could have water in it or be in need of changing. You could try draining and refilling with a higher viscosity gear lube. Usually, however, once they start to howl the damage is done.

    Good Luck.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Member Posts: 833
    balsdon
    waiting 15-20 seconds for the engine to settle down doesn't seem like a long time to me provided the engine is cold. Are you in a cold environment? Does it do this when the engine is warm?

    If anything, the problem lies not with your engine but with the automatic choke (my guess)
  • horsefacehorseface Member Posts: 1
    I have recently replaced the front discs of my F-150. Soon afterward I started noticing a very weak brake peddle. The rotors (looked) fine when I replaced the pads. Also during braking I hear what seems to be chattering from behind the steering wheel. I bleed all brakes and adjusted the rears. It was braking great for about 2 weeks. The problem has started again. Loose pedal and chattering. I'm thinking master cylinder now. Any other ideas.
  • mamellmamell Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I have an F150 with a 351m engine, 1981 model. I haul a lot of metal so it gets plenty of work, but i just installed a used transmission and I have reverse, but no forward gears at all. The guys at the junk yard told me that if I have reverse then I also have at least low, but not in this truck... I've drained all the fluid, cleaned the sludge out of the pan, replaced the filter and even blew plenty of carb cleaner through the valve body to loosen so called sludge there. I then replaced everything, fluid included, raised the rear wheels and ran through all the gears several times, even reving it up and nothing...Low gear makes a "clunk" noise when the wheels are off the ground, but that's it..still nothing..
    Any suggestions other than replacing it again? This is all but totally bankrupted me.. I can't work because I'm self employed so my ONLY alternative is to either replace and HOPE the dinky jack I have will lift the truck high enough or sell the basta....truck and get another...
    I"m desparat and will try almost anything..
    Thanks in advanced..

    M
  • pungovapungova Member Posts: 1
    I also have a whining from the rear axle at light acceleration especially around 30-35MPH. The dealership has indicated that the rear axle used on the 2003 models has a problem with the ring and pinion gear causing the whining. I've been waiting 5 weeks already for all the parts to arrive so they can replace it. The hold up is just one part which is on back order until October. So if your dealership is giving you a line of ( ), I suggest you suggest the ring and pinion gear assembly.
  • 02f150nh02f150nh Member Posts: 1
    I have an 02 XLT F-150 4.6. I had to replace the #1 and #2 coils recently. After the replacement I have a noticable engine rpm flutter, not necessarily a misfire, but all I can describe it as is a "flutter". It occurs most notably between 1k and 2k rpms. Brought it to the dealership and had it on the dio, but none of the cylinders were spiking. I had one scenerio where at 65mph the whole engine was shaking, like I had tow front tire blowouts. But its really a consistent vibration you can feel in the seats, steering wheel and you can see the visors moving. My question, should I get the remaining coils replaced even though the computer is not indicating this? If I go that route, will it solve the problem? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • norwoodnorwood Member Posts: 3
    Hi everyone, wanted to know if anyone has had this happen. I've got a 1998 f-150(totally stock) that has blown 2 sparks plugs..one they were able to screw back in, some threads left.(that was a couple years ago) The latest one blew out about a week ago like a shotgun blast and took the threads with it. The Easy Care extended warranty I bough from the Ford dealer at 35,000 miles didn't want to pay to replace the head until I fought it. (inspector determined that the spark plugs were over torqued at the factory) Now we discover one cylinder is very low on compression and upon taking the engine out we find that the piston skirts are warn from slapping the cylinder walls and they are now scored. the tech says we should put in a rebuilt long block from Ford but Easy Care is denying the claim saying it was due to poor maintenance. The crank bearings are also worn. The threads in the cylinder could have caused some wear and may have worked their way down into the bottom of the engine but it sure is disappointing since the truck is in nice shape and has only 70,000 miles. Any ideas on how to battle Easy Care, Ford would have helped with some cash but they want to put it on the warranty company since I have one. We just had a baby and I can't afford a new engine!!!
  • norwoodnorwood Member Posts: 3
    good luck with the coils...I've had to replace 3 on my 1998 5.4. hey wait till the dang thing fails and the fuel builds up and then it fires!
    Say goodbye to your spark plug and perhaps the threads that come out with it!!! I've blown two plugs out and now my motor is trash, think the threads went down the cylinder and scored the wall. better make sure your plugs don't back out and that you torque them correctly or else you'll weaken the whimpy aluminum heads. I've got a real mess on my hands.
  • fx42005fx42005 Member Posts: 4
    WOW !!
    With all these problems I am reading and the nightmare stories of bad customer services , I'm starting to doubt my desire for a 05 FX4.

    Also , Is there a place to find a Ford dealers customer service rating in my area ?
  • bdm1bdm1 Member Posts: 3
    I have 04 f250 5.4auto 4x4. Engine sounds like a light diesel when started cold. Had to dealer when truck had 400mi on it. They told me noise was {acceptable} as per special service message#16403, which states some 5.4 motors may exhibit a light tick or rattle until engine warm up. Due to light load operating conditions and normal bore clearances in a cold engine.It does not affect performance or durability of engine. My truck now has 1,500 miles on it. Diesel noise has gotten louder and I can still hear noise even after truck blows heat from heater. Noise does not sound like tick or rattle sounds more like clank or knocking. Going back to dealer for second time to let them listen to engine. Does anyone know more about this subject? Would appreciate any input.
    Thank you.
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Member Posts: 833
    hey fx,
    don't get discouraged on ford too much. remember, this is the problem board; not 'how much I like my truck board'. All cars/trucks have problems - if there's a make on Edmunds, then there's a board posting problems.

    From what I read here, I haven't seen many re- occuring problems; at least not recently.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    When they say "It does not affect performance or durability of engine.....", you should consider it to also mean ".....during the warranty period only". The complete statement will also probably be correct only if the noise gets no worse.

    In your case you need an independent professional diagnosis of the problem, assuming that the dealer doesn't do the right thing when you return. Knowing that you're not going to quietly fade away will probably help them to do the right thing!
  • 04xlregcab4x404xlregcab4x4 Member Posts: 2
    GO TO THE DEALERSHIP AND GET YOUR FREE 8 INCH EXTENTIONS FOR YOUR SEATBELTS AND PLUG THEM IN THE FEMALE SIDE, AND BE (DING FREE)
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    If the noise continues to get louder, then yes you have a problem. Continue to pursue a solution as it gets worse, give the dealer a few tries. That TSB is correct as there is a certain amount of acceptable noise associated with startup on those engines, but if it gets worse with more miles then the motor is more likely "breaking down" than "breaking in."
  • mezecamezeca Member Posts: 66
    Every car since auto choke has had a fast idle circuit to help cold running. Today's computer cars are no different.
  • fanof88fanof88 Member Posts: 1
    Back in Dec 2003 there was a discussion of a vibration in the 04's. I just bought an '04 F-150 SuperCrew 2 weeks ago and have the vibration problem, too. Did anyone ever get it worked out? They just replaced the driveshaft and it did not fix the situation. The last line of the service notes on the invoice says..."Will follow up with customer as soon as quality service fix comes out hopefully at or near the end of November." Tell me you got a better answer.
  • hidemanhideman Member Posts: 1
    sometimes when pulling out, truck wont go. gradually gets going like a train and black smoke rolls from tail pipe. Other times it will just cut out at 70 mph. Check engine light never comes on and dealer hs no idea. Any info would help
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Did they check for the simple stuff.... like a bad load of fuel? Check the water separator on the fuel line. Change the fuel filter.
  • shannonb1shannonb1 Member Posts: 3
    1996 F350 trucks with 7.3 liter turbo diesel engine. Causes of fires, probably electrical in nature, for cold engine that will not start. Any ideas.
  • mayblastfordmayblastford Member Posts: 1
    I Too have a vibration in my 04 F150 at 70-75 They replaced steering gear didn't help I have the 18inch tires This is very disappointing to have a new truck drive like this
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Are you saying your truck has actually been catching fire?
  • shannonb1shannonb1 Member Posts: 3
    a truck did catch on fire. I need to find out reasons why a cold engine that would not start would catch on fire.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I could hypothesize several scenarios, but a little more information would be helpful. Such as where the fire originated. You say the 'engine' caught fire (which is unlikely), but maybe the fire started in the engine compartment. If so, whereabouts? Passanger side, drivers side, front, back etc.?

    It could well be electrical, especially as it's a diesel, but more details would help narrow iy down.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Just a quick stab, but a cold diesel engine that wouldn't start. First idea would be either the starter wiring/relays/starter itself overheated from prolonged cranking. My second idea could be in the glowplug system. I never had given this wiring any thought until one day I was working on mine. The engine was nearly cold, which meant the glowplugs were staying on a long time, and I had the key in the run position with the engine not running. I inadvertantly touched the wiring near the relay on top of the motor and it gave me really good 1st degree burn.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Yes, the high current circuits would be the first place I'd look if it was established to be an electrical problem. However, strangely, those circuits rarely cause an actual fire. They'll often 'let the smoke out' of a particular component or wire, but the heavy circuits often sit in isolation. Actual fires are usually started by something that overheats in the middle of a wiring loom.
  • robsrobs Member Posts: 4
    I just purchased an 04 F-150 Fx4 supercrew with a 5.4L, when I accelerate it seems that there is almost like a shifting of the body in the rear end like the rear axle or diff is not tight. It also feels sluggish sometimes. Not very smooth like my 99 GMC 5.3L was. Has anyone else experienced this problem. I also had to have the computer module replaced already. The damn thing would stall on me in traffic. Unbelievable !! It only has about 3000 miles on it. Anyone else experience any of these problems ?
  • joeprinterjoeprinter Member Posts: 14
    I also have this problem. The dealer replaced the drive shaft and it made it different but not fixed! Now I have been waiting for "shims" for the rear end for 2 weeks + . I have heard that this is a common problem looks like they would know how to fix it!
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    At least that indicates that the driveshaft is part, if not all, of the problem.
  • fordguy1fordguy1 Member Posts: 4
    Just installed a rebuilt 351 winsor in my 92 f-250 and the truck will strat and run good for about 2 min then lock up when i go to restart it it turns over very hard if i wait a while it will turn over fine and restart ???? im confused i dont know alot about this type of problem can anyone help !!
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I would suspect the quality of the rebuild. Sounds like something's seizing, then releasing as it cools back down.

    Was this a 'premium' or a 'value' rebuild?
  • fordguy1fordguy1 Member Posts: 4
    would say it was a value rebuilt because all gaskets timing chain and gears , heads were shaved and rod bearings were changed , new oil pump, that was about it it ran great before it was torn apart but now it doesnt just wanted a refreshed motor i have tried all day and cant get it to crank over anymore not even a little ???
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Now that it won't crank over at all should help find the problem. Things need to be released or loosened until it frees up.

    Did you do this work yourself? Was the block bored and new pistons fitted?
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    I think you'll need to get an oil presure gauge hooked up to see what's happening. Beyond that, you're looking at opening it up again. If I had to guess, I would say you have some incorrect bearing tolerances that are causing seizure.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Unfortunately, an oil pressure gauge won't help much until he can get it running again. Opening it up and releasing the caps one at a time should provide the answer as you indicated.
  • akjbmwakjbmw Member Posts: 231
    mac24.
    Is it an old starter?
    When they get old, they will start to not turn well when hot. After cooling a bit, all is well until hot again...
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I can't say it isn't the problem, but it wouldn't be high on my list. An old tired starter can often spin a hot motor over easily, but struggles when the motor is cold and the oil is thick.
  • daneedanee Member Posts: 2
    We have the same problem. They replaced the rear end clutches and turned the driveshaft. Resolved the rearend problem, but also has an awful vibration. Ford is aware of this problem, but doesn't know how to fix it! Started 3 days after purchase, only has 1800 miles on it now and it has been in the shop 3 times and not resolved. Complained to dealership and going this week to see what they can do to resolve the problem. Hopefully we can turn it in as a lemon and get a different truck, not a f-150, that's for sure!!!!
  • santossantos Member Posts: 2
    I thought I was imagining things but you described exactly what I feel on the rear end (of my new 04 f150 fx4 whit 250 miles) on acceleration. Do you feel a couple of light thumps at the same time the body shifts?
  • crazyredmonkcrazyredmonk Member Posts: 2
    Anyone have any knowledge of older Fords. 92 Ford f250 straight 6. Truck starts and than stalls. Does stay running after one or two starts. Has a loss of power. Doesn't matter if truck is hot or cold.

    Please help.:-(
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Could be anything and everything. Carbon in the throttle body, bad TPS, plug wires, intake leak, on and on.
  • cyberdoccyberdoc Member Posts: 2
    I have a 01 Lariat CC F350 7.3 Diesel with 64K miles and it has run flawlessly untill the past 3 months. Had the 60K full service at dealer last month. Well, what happens is when I've been driving awhile (warm engine) and slow for a stoplight or turn with foot on brake, the engine will die suddenly and without any warning. This has happened about 15 times, often weeks appart but one day 4 times. It starts right up again no problem. I've noticed no difference in power or other functions of the engine otherwise and my mileage is 22mpg highway/17 city as it has been for a few years. I've been through several tanks of fuel and replaced the fuel filter at 60K mi service. Anybody know what's going on here and how to fix it? Been a great truck otherwise.
  • robsrobs Member Posts: 4
    sounds exactly like what IM talking about...any ideas wwhat to do...i havent discussed it with my dealer yet....
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Because it runs well and restarts without a problem I be inclined to discount a fuel problem, i.e. air leak or blockage etc.

    My feeling would be to look for an electrical solution to this, from the key switch on down.
  • shannonb1shannonb1 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you all for your ideas. I have researched fires in the Ford F350 from 1992-1996 (clones) and found that there were quite a few. Does anyone know what other make/model (dodge/chevy) of trucks would be comparable to the Ford 1992-1996 Diesel F350 turbo charge series. I am interested in finding out how many instances of fires in similiar trucks
  • fordgirl1fordgirl1 Member Posts: 1
    I'm getting ready to buy a 2003 ford f250 SD supercab 4X4. I took it for a test drive and it drove great, I went to stop and the brake pedal pulsates... the rotors either need turned or replaced. It only has 16000 miles on it, is this normal, has anyone else had this problem and is this going to be an ongoing problem? I can't afford to replace brakes or rotors ever 15000 miles or so... and I shouldn't have to!
This discussion has been closed.