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2007 and newer Chevrolet Tahoe and GMC Yukon
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Comments
I had my first experience with the new blades disappearing off my Denali. Got in the car, went to wash the windshield and no left blade. As many of you know these are (were)a proprietary design and could only be purchased at a GM dealer. List price is $29.00 each! Trico now makes a replacement and it's their number 22-13 (Carquest 22-513), and the price is $16 each. It fits right in, but the snap retention is just as weak as the OEM unit.
To fix, I drilled holes thru the metal arm from the underneath side, into the plastic blade unit, and fastened with a S.S. screw.
Joe
The Aux button on my Tahoe will match the rear AC to the same settings as the driver's AC. I personally like my setting around 65 degrees and I like my kids to be set at about 71 to 72 degrees. The only way to have the temp different in the rear than the front is to access the rear control panel for the AC.
Doesn't the Denali have the DIC? Mine tells me how many gallons I've used which subtracted from 26, tells me what's left. This assumes zeroing out when filling.
I utilize the information in the DIC as well. However, I found that it can be up to 2 gallons off from what I've actually used. Meaning it says I've used 22 and I've actually used 24 gallons. It averages about 1 gallon off, so I it can be relied on as long as I get gas by the time it says I've used 23 gallons.
This is a dealer demo, supposedly driven by a manager back & forth to work. It's never been titled. So if it's been in an accident, I'm guessing no one would have had to report that, right? Anyway to be sure it's not been in an accident?
And lastly, what do you think is a reasonable price for this? I don't know how to figure out the invoice price. If I ask the dealer, they'll probably just show me a fake invoice. I'm guessing they keep those on file for just that purpose. Plus there's holdbacks & incentives to consider for the dealer. I see this as essentially a used 1 year old vehicle w/6000m. I'm thinking $28-29K. Thoughts? It's only an LT1, so it doesn't have a ton of bells & whistles, but that's cool w/me.
For a comparitive reference point, I just bought a new 2007 Suburban LTZ two weeks ago.
-> 49,390 MSRP
-> 45,202 Discounted vehicle to
-> -8,117 Tradein, which is "overallocated" by at least 2K. I had my trade valued independantly at CarMax and other dealers, and NADA. Carmax was at 3500, other dealers offered 4000 and 5000. This dealership had offered 6000 to do the deal, and then after negotiations raised it up to over 8K. No way my vehicle was worth 8K, so the overallocation of additional discount is at least 2-3K.
-> 37,084 Net Taxable
-> 1,112 Tax
-> 55 Tag
-> 248 Admin/Dealer Doc
-> 38,500 Total Due
-> -2,000 2007 vehicle rebate (to dealer)
-> -3,000 Mfg date prior 2/15/07 rebate (to dealer)
-> 33,500 Net Due at closing
So on a new 49,390 vehicle, they discounted it by 11-12K (4188 + 2000or3000 + 5000) = 22+% off
Your deal for a used vehicle with MSRP 41,324 is 34000 or 7324 off = 18%
I was at a different dealership which had offered 11K off of a 48K MSRP vehicle (no trade involved, but included the 5K rebates), but I didn't like the color/options of that vehicle.
I'm inclined to think you could do much better with a new 2007 vehicle. I'm assuming the 5K rebates are available on Tahoe's also. Since your trim level is simpler, the 5K rebate on a lesser MSRP vehicle is a larger %.
The Tahoe is eligible for the std 2K rebate & for the aged 3K vehicle rebate, I'm just not sure how to tell for sure if this is aged or not?
Thanks Again!
As I understand the 'aged' rebate, it is for any vehicle made prior to 2/15/07. So if the sticker says 1/07 or before and it's a new vehicle, it would qualify. If it's mfg 3/07 or later, it would not. If it's 2/07 the dealer would have to tell you. It comes up on their system when they put in the VIN number, it will tell them which rebates it qualifies for.
So indiscretely you can look at the door jamb, but the dealer will tell you for sure and I wouldn't be hesitant at all to ask. They know which of their vehicles qualify....I was at one dealership where as we walked down the line he said this one, this one, not this one, etc.
I have the same vehicle, and I am now hearing that cricket noise. I noticed that I could alter the sound by turning the steering wheel, had a feeling it was associated with the steering mechanism, I am going to take mine in today...Thanks.
Here's a link to the article.
http://www.dailytech.com/GMs+Tahoe+Yukon+Dualmode+Hybrids+Get+EPA+Rated/article9- 081.htm
Did you ever paint the gold bowties? If so how did they come out? Did you have them professionally done?
Thanks,
Dawgs5
Oh, and zoesam, the aged discount last weekend expired on 9/24.
I need some help from my fellow 07 Tahoe owners. I have been fighting with a local dealership about my cricket sound (it is more of a whistle). They have changed my cluster, my alt and today they told me to go to a different dealership because they didn't know what to do and told me the noise I hear is normal, yet the service manager told me the other 3 times I brought it in he heard it too. Now here is what I need help with, when you start your truck,and start to drive off slowly turn down your radio and listen for a whistle sound. Yes I do understand that the vehicle does make some sounds like this, but this is a loud metallic type whistle. It will happen on slow take offs and up to about 35, 40 mph and not while turning just straight. I'm going to try one more dealership since these clowns just quit on me, but if this is normal, I guess I'm the clown.
Long story short...I had started the "Lemon Law" :lemon: process on my first LTZ that I purchased in March 2006, but ended up doing a "swap" for a BRAND NEW LTZ in April of 2007!! I'll spare you the details of what I went through with my first truck...But have been VERY pleased with the replacement that was built and shipped straight to me. I ended up working through the BBB Autoline process which dealt directly with Detroit and GM's Customer Care Department. They negotiated everything on my behalf and we never had to take it to court. Was a tedious process...But GM still has a satisfied customer!!
I'd check into what rights as a new car owner you have in your state...It may be worth your time and effort to look into it.
I had that same whistling noise early on. It took some guesswork, but the service manager figured out that he could replace the steering mechanism and that eliminated the whistle.
I'm not allowed to give out the service manager's name on this board, but call Jim Reed Chevrolet in Nashville, TN and ask for the service manager.
Ask them to look up the repairs on Shawn Hackett's 2007 Tahoe LTZ for the whistling noise.
I'm sure your dealer's service department could replace the same part for you.
Hopefully it will cure the noise for you too. Good luck!
Thanks..
G
Thanks
Took my Tahoe in Friday, October 12th 2007, to Advantage Chevy in Boling Brook IL, they had the SUV there the entire day and told me they could not hear and identify the problem, of course I was pissed. Now mind you I told them about this site and about other 2007 Tahoe owners having the same problem. Well, I took my truck home. This morning I took it back because the whistling got louder, again they said they could not hear it. Now, I am really upset. So they checked the GM service site, and found Document ID#1974648 (5/22/2007) Subject: "Power Steering High pitched Whistle Noise Heard". Man this document has been out there since May 22, 2007, and these guys did not know about it.
Just to let everone know, GM is aware of the noise which is internal to the steering gear, and the engineers are investigating, they do not have a solution for this at this time. I am going to call GM, and would advised each of you to do the same. Don't stop calling until they fix this problem. BTW, it effects the following :
2007 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, and EXT models, 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Silverado 1500, and Tahoe, 2007 GMC Sierra 1500, Yukon and Yukon XL. If anyone need additioanl information, hit me up. :mad:
GM probably figures it's too expensive for them to have a nationwide recall if it's not a safety issue.
They told me that the majority of owners can't even hear it. But my hearing is perfect, so it was driving me nuts too.
I bought my 2007 Tahoe LTZ in February of 2006 and had the problem from day one, but only after the car warmed up after 15 minutes.
It took a couple months of complaining, but they fixed it for me. Since I was the first in town with the LTZ, they probably felt it was in their best interest for PR to make me happy.
My other problems since then have been...
* Clock disappearing - I figured this out that having an MP3 CD with alot of songs overloads the software and kicks off the clock. Since I have my iPod hooked up, I don't need the CD anymore.
* Power locks not working - it's been awhile since that was an issue and seemed to work itself out.
* A/C compressor doesn't kick on, even set at 60. - This also seemed to work itself out.
* DVD screen in the back cutting off after just a few minutes. - They replaced the entire upper screen unit and that still doesn't fix it. I have the GM Lockpick installed that overrides the DVD lock when moving, so I haven't really pushed this too much in case the Lockpick is messing it up.
* Driver's side seat lumbar support has something broken in it. It doesn't push out at your back but pops. - I'll be taking this in shortly since I'm approaching the 36,000 mile limit.
I really do love the LTZ 4x4 and it still rides great. I just got back from a 1000 mile roundtrip to Destin, FL and got 18.6 MPG averaging about 78 MPH.
As long as my dealer has fixed my problems, I'm ok with first year glitches. They even put me in a free rental anytime I have to bring it in.
I just hope I've gotten through the expensive stuff in the first 36k miles and they keep treating me well.
* Power locks not working - it's been awhile since that was an issue and seemed to work itself out. "
shawnhackett, I've referred some of these exact same issues to some attorney's and they are interested in hearing from more people with them. The address is http://www.wcclaw.com/CM/ClassActions/ChevyTruck.asp. I know I've given the address a lot, but some of these are the exact same issues that my attorney's are looking at.
My question is - How hard is it to remove the front passenger seat? Mine is NOT powered (I only have a driver's side powered seat.)
I'm thinking I'll have to remove the seat only once, to mount the radio bracket to the floor. I think I can then install and/or remove the radio from the bracket without messing with the seat.
Any other Hams out there with any advice for me?
Chuck
KE5RAD
I was looking a couple weeks ago for a platform to mount a laptop to, and got some good ideas. I don't have the time right now to give you some URL's, but they're pretty easy to find.
Also, another good mounting location is on the passenger side of the console, as forward as far as the seat excursion. RTV the mount to the console, and you can easily remove it without leaving any holes.
If you don't have the Bose option, remove the cup holder, and pull up sharply on the tray insert. It will unsnap and there might be a pretty large cavity underneath it. I don't know for sure becaue I have the Bose option on mine and that's where the sub enclosure and amp is located. vy 7 3, K3GM
73 Steve at Saratoga Lake, NY
I know that GM has a "vibration specialist" that connects to the frame and can identify the location of vibrations.
Anybody else have this problem or have heard of it?
Don
I just noticed tonight a static noise which sounds like it is coming thru the radio, while idling or running at low speed. Radio is off, a/c and blowers off.
Does anyone have a copy of the above Document ID 1974648? .... or has a definitive fix been issued?
____________________________________________________________
My question to you is why do you drive your vehicle at 45mph with the transmission out of gear? This is considered a dangerous practice. If the noise only occurs in this scenario then just keep the gear engaged.
BTW I run 20s on a black Denali with a 1/3 drop and kept the stock self leveling shocks.
73's
Chuck
KE5RAD
Okay guys I need some professional advice. I am purchasing some 24" rims. I am looking to lower my hoe to close up the gap in the wheel well. I would like to keep as close as possible to my factory ride. I don't want a lowrider (rephrased for those politically correct sensitive people)that bounces all over the place. I also have a 25ft boat I need to tow. Can someone recommend a good but somewhat inexpensive lowering kit? I don't want the cheapest or the most expensive, but I want to do things right. :lemon:
I just ordered the chrome mesh grille with tow hook covers and the chrome door handles. I think the last piece of chrome I am going to get is the chrome bow tie for the front grille. I already did the trick with the back bowtie and removed the gold cover to make the tie chrome.
Thanks for all the info on the sound that my truck makes. I have been to busy to bring it back to the dealership, but did talk to my new service manager. He stated to me that he had two other Tahoes in for the same reason last week. Not sure if they fixed them or just started to replace random things. I guess I will find out next week when I drop off mine.
Shawn, I will pass along the info you provided along with the GM doc number about the power steering and see what happens. One thing that got me was that he mentioned it could be a vacuum problem. Anything is possible I guess.
Dave
When the radio is on and I start the vehicle, the radio immediately shuts down and "reboots" as the Tahoe starts. When I shut down the Tahoe, the radio stays on, as it should.
The vehicle/battery is about 16 months old and I've experienced no other electrical issues with it. I measure just a hair over 12 volts at the radio's power connection with the vehicle shut off.
I'm suspecting that the starter pulls such current that the radio loses power and restarts, but am not sure:
a. if this is harmful to the radio
b. if I could correct this by installing a more heavy duty battery
c. if there is anything else I could/should do to keep the radio on
during starting
Thoughts/comments/suggestions would be appreciated.
a) I doubt it.
b) Perhaps. But I'd first check the rating of the existing battery to see how much improvement you can obtain.
c) You know that extra battery tray on the other side of the vehicle? I'd populate that one with another battery, and either wire them in parallel, or get a battery isolator like they use on RV's. If you wire them in parallel, I'd go with 2 brand new, like batteries. I had this on my diesel pickup and I'd could operate for hours without fear of running the batteries down. gl es vy 73
I doubt that having low voltage is harmful to the radio unless the radio is not designed for true automotive conditions: extreme hot and cold temperature, some voltage transients,...
Having a heavy duty battery may help provided the starting system does not drag the voltage down beyond the working threshold of your ham radio.
One caution about connecting the ham radio (or any electronic equipment) directly to the battery: make sure this one does not draw to much juice (low standby current) while the vehicle is off and ignition is off. If not, you end up draining your Tahoe's battery in no time. Radio can draw 1-2 Amp while it is in normal working mode. But in stand by mode (ignition off) , most car radios draw less than 1mA (1/1000 of an Amp).
jt
The service manager at Jim Reed Chevrolet said they wouldn't release any service records unless the customer authorized it.
I still have the whistling issue...every time I take it in the service managers say they don't hear anything; except once, they said it was a brake pad sticking. All of my passengers can hear it...all of the time.
This is irritating the hell out of me because it's now like fingernails on the chalkboard every time I drive.
Can you post the details of the service or send me an email (set up a temp email since this is posted) at whistlingyukon@yahoo.com?
From the drivers side only - I have switched the blades from side to side and the noise is still on the drivers side -
Right at the point where the wiper blade changes direction and starts moving back down I get the TAP sound - I think it is the hard plastic piece that connects the windshield wipper to the wiper arm hitting the glass.
Does anyone have this same issue?
I think replacing the blade with a different style may solve it - but I have not found anyone who sells a replacement blade for the 2007 -
Michelin makes one but I could not see how the darn thing would attach to my vehicle - unless I use a part from my Tahoe (which is broken)
http://www.silblade.com/ or here
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