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2007 and newer Chevrolet Tahoe and GMC Yukon

1515254565761

Comments

  • valvestudvalvestud Member Posts: 35
    Hello all,

    I had my first experience with the new blades disappearing off my Denali. Got in the car, went to wash the windshield and no left blade. As many of you know these are (were)a proprietary design and could only be purchased at a GM dealer. List price is $29.00 each! Trico now makes a replacement and it's their number 22-13 (Carquest 22-513), and the price is $16 each. It fits right in, but the snap retention is just as weak as the OEM unit.

    To fix, I drilled holes thru the metal arm from the underneath side, into the plastic blade unit, and fastened with a S.S. screw.

    Joe
  • gfraigungfraigun Member Posts: 70
    Don't know about the Denalis but my Tahoe rear A/C can be operated from the front by punching the Aux button. Not sure why it's not called rear A/C. The rear controls can also be operated by rear passengers.

    The Aux button on my Tahoe will match the rear AC to the same settings as the driver's AC. I personally like my setting around 65 degrees and I like my kids to be set at about 71 to 72 degrees. The only way to have the temp different in the rear than the front is to access the rear control panel for the AC.

    Doesn't the Denali have the DIC? Mine tells me how many gallons I've used which subtracted from 26, tells me what's left. This assumes zeroing out when filling.

    I utilize the information in the DIC as well. However, I found that it can be up to 2 gallons off from what I've actually used. Meaning it says I've used 22 and I've actually used 24 gallons. It averages about 1 gallon off, so I it can be relied on as long as I get gas by the time it says I've used 23 gallons.
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    My Yukon XL is also a little off on the trip computer. Typically underestimates gallons used by about 1-2, and therefore fuel economy by about 1 mpg. Not dangerously inaccurate, just slightly annoying.
  • zoesamzoesam Member Posts: 33
    It also has 6 cd changer, 4WD, rear park assist & adjustable pedals. MSRP 41,324, asking price on the window 34K. I believe this to be an "aged" vehicle, is there any way to know for sure? How do I know if the 34K window price includes the 2K current rebate & the 3K aged rebate?

    This is a dealer demo, supposedly driven by a manager back & forth to work. It's never been titled. So if it's been in an accident, I'm guessing no one would have had to report that, right? Anyway to be sure it's not been in an accident?

    And lastly, what do you think is a reasonable price for this? I don't know how to figure out the invoice price. If I ask the dealer, they'll probably just show me a fake invoice. I'm guessing they keep those on file for just that purpose. Plus there's holdbacks & incentives to consider for the dealer. I see this as essentially a used 1 year old vehicle w/6000m. I'm thinking $28-29K. Thoughts? It's only an LT1, so it doesn't have a ton of bells & whistles, but that's cool w/me.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The way I view these things, is what happens if I buy it and drive it off the lot, and on the way home it gets totalled. From an insurance perspective, its a used 2007 with 6K miles. Or if you bought it and then wanted to trade it in somewhere else....it's a used 2007 w/6K miles. From a warranty perspective, I believe your clock started a while ago (although you would need to get the dealer to prove to you that it didn't, if that was the case).

    For a comparitive reference point, I just bought a new 2007 Suburban LTZ two weeks ago.
    -> 49,390 MSRP
    -> 45,202 Discounted vehicle to
    -> -8,117 Tradein, which is "overallocated" by at least 2K. I had my trade valued independantly at CarMax and other dealers, and NADA. Carmax was at 3500, other dealers offered 4000 and 5000. This dealership had offered 6000 to do the deal, and then after negotiations raised it up to over 8K. No way my vehicle was worth 8K, so the overallocation of additional discount is at least 2-3K.
    -> 37,084 Net Taxable
    -> 1,112 Tax
    -> 55 Tag
    -> 248 Admin/Dealer Doc
    -> 38,500 Total Due
    -> -2,000 2007 vehicle rebate (to dealer)
    -> -3,000 Mfg date prior 2/15/07 rebate (to dealer)
    -> 33,500 Net Due at closing

    So on a new 49,390 vehicle, they discounted it by 11-12K (4188 + 2000or3000 + 5000) = 22+% off

    Your deal for a used vehicle with MSRP 41,324 is 34000 or 7324 off = 18%

    I was at a different dealership which had offered 11K off of a 48K MSRP vehicle (no trade involved, but included the 5K rebates), but I didn't like the color/options of that vehicle.

    I'm inclined to think you could do much better with a new 2007 vehicle. I'm assuming the 5K rebates are available on Tahoe's also. Since your trim level is simpler, the 5K rebate on a lesser MSRP vehicle is a larger %.
  • zoesamzoesam Member Posts: 33
    Thank you kiawah, excellent points to consider! Warranty was mfr "remaining" warranty, so I think ur right that the clock started already. I left quickly, I didn't want to seem too eager, but this particular option set is exactly what I want & it's been proving difficult to find. Still your experience makes it sound like I can do better & another dealer was asking 33K for an aged out, truly new Suburban a month ago. Unfortunately the Sub won't fit in my garage :(

    The Tahoe is eligible for the std 2K rebate & for the aged 3K vehicle rebate, I'm just not sure how to tell for sure if this is aged or not?

    Thanks Again!
  • hardin_thickehardin_thicke Member Posts: 35
    Yes, I did that. At least 1 hour. Error message remains.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You can tell the manufacturing date, by looking at the sticker on the front drivers door, in the upper right hand corner.

    As I understand the 'aged' rebate, it is for any vehicle made prior to 2/15/07. So if the sticker says 1/07 or before and it's a new vehicle, it would qualify. If it's mfg 3/07 or later, it would not. If it's 2/07 the dealer would have to tell you. It comes up on their system when they put in the VIN number, it will tell them which rebates it qualifies for.

    So indiscretely you can look at the door jamb, but the dealer will tell you for sure and I wouldn't be hesitant at all to ask. They know which of their vehicles qualify....I was at one dealership where as we walked down the line he said this one, this one, not this one, etc.
  • zoesamzoesam Member Posts: 33
    Thank you so much kiawah! I will look for it. It's not that I'm hesitant to ask, but this sales rep was so new, he didn't even know his competing dealers name when I mentioned it. I would get a better sales rep, but w/the razor thin commission he's gonna get, it's not to my advantage to have him split it w/a more knowledgable sales rep. Arrrghh. I shouldn't have to be thinking about the sales reps' incentives.
  • ggreenil7ggreenil7 Member Posts: 4
    Hi Shawn,
    I have the same vehicle, and I am now hearing that cricket noise. I noticed that I could alter the sound by turning the steering wheel, had a feeling it was associated with the steering mechanism, I am going to take mine in today...Thanks.
  • jjmjgnxjjmjgnx Member Posts: 34
    The numbers are in. 21/22 for 2WD and 20/20 for 4WD.

    Here's a link to the article.

    http://www.dailytech.com/GMs+Tahoe+Yukon+Dualmode+Hybrids+Get+EPA+Rated/article9- 081.htm
  • dawgs5dawgs5 Member Posts: 1
    Hey Zepres,

    Did you ever paint the gold bowties? If so how did they come out? Did you have them professionally done?

    Thanks,

    Dawgs5
  • acowboyfanacowboyfan Member Posts: 27
    Starting today, ending Monday 10/1, 0% for 60 ***or*** $4K cash back on all 07 Tahoes, Burbs, Yukons, and Escalades (as well as Trailblazers and Envoys).

    Oh, and zoesam, the aged discount last weekend expired on 9/24.
  • zoesamzoesam Member Posts: 33
    The word I got today was also $4K, cash back, but it went up very easily to $5K at 2 different dealerships today. Simply asking about the aged discount got both sales reps to offer $5K rebate.
  • tahoe007tahoe007 Member Posts: 4
    I am "steamed", first time I had 55,000 miles, second time 107,000. I've only pulled a small motorcycle trailer. I still have the Tahoe, it still looks good with a great interior. But I just drive it close to home once or twice a month, its not dependable. I buy Fords now and so far I have had problems, GM lost me for a customer.
  • tripwiretripwire Member Posts: 10
    All,

    I need some help from my fellow 07 Tahoe owners. I have been fighting with a local dealership about my cricket sound (it is more of a whistle). They have changed my cluster, my alt and today they told me to go to a different dealership because they didn't know what to do and told me the noise I hear is normal, yet the service manager told me the other 3 times I brought it in he heard it too. Now here is what I need help with, when you start your truck,and start to drive off slowly turn down your radio and listen for a whistle sound. Yes I do understand that the vehicle does make some sounds like this, but this is a loud metallic type whistle. It will happen on slow take offs and up to about 35, 40 mph and not while turning just straight. I'm going to try one more dealership since these clowns just quit on me, but if this is normal, I guess I'm the clown.
  • rockin_ltzrockin_ltz Member Posts: 61
    Hey Tripwire...Not that there's any guarantee with this, but have you tried calling the GM Customer Resolution Center that is listed in your Owner's Manual?? They do seem to really care about the GM Owner and will hopefully try and work with you in regards to this issue.

    Long story short...I had started the "Lemon Law" :lemon: process on my first LTZ that I purchased in March 2006, but ended up doing a "swap" for a BRAND NEW LTZ in April of 2007!! I'll spare you the details of what I went through with my first truck...But have been VERY pleased with the replacement that was built and shipped straight to me. I ended up working through the BBB Autoline process which dealt directly with Detroit and GM's Customer Care Department. They negotiated everything on my behalf and we never had to take it to court. Was a tedious process...But GM still has a satisfied customer!! :)

    I'd check into what rights as a new car owner you have in your state...It may be worth your time and effort to look into it.
  • shawnhackettshawnhackett Member Posts: 16
    I've got your solution, however, I can't tell you exactly what the dealer did.

    I had that same whistling noise early on. It took some guesswork, but the service manager figured out that he could replace the steering mechanism and that eliminated the whistle.

    I'm not allowed to give out the service manager's name on this board, but call Jim Reed Chevrolet in Nashville, TN and ask for the service manager.

    Ask them to look up the repairs on Shawn Hackett's 2007 Tahoe LTZ for the whistling noise.

    I'm sure your dealer's service department could replace the same part for you.

    Hopefully it will cure the noise for you too. Good luck!
  • gfraigungfraigun Member Posts: 70
    I haven't noticed the same sound from my truck that is being described. But I've had a lot of ongoing issues for well over a year now that GM has admitted are problems, but aren't getting fixed. Unfortunately, I've had to resort to going the legal process and I'm taking GM to court. In short, I'm having mirror problems, radio problems, bose problems, door locking problems. I've been to multiple dealerships all with the same answers, in writing; GM knows about the issues but there are no repairs. If you want more details just visit this webpage, explains a lot... http://www.wcclaw.com/CM/ClassActions/ChevyTruck.asp

    Thanks..
    G
  • ggreenil7ggreenil7 Member Posts: 4
    Hi Tipwire, today i took my 2007 Tahoe in got the same thing, and no one could hear it but me..Not the Service manager stated that the noise I am hearing is normal pulley noise. I told him that is not a normal noise and it is really annoying. They kept my truck and advised they will call me later.
  • 07yuk07yuk Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 07 yukon on Sept. 26. My vehicle was shipped on 2/13/07 according to the invoice. The dealer says I'm not eligible for the aged discount, nothing comes up for my vin# for discounts other than the regional incentive at the time which was $3,000. Anybody know a way to find out if this is really true or if I'm being ill informed by the dealer?
    Thanks
  • ggreenil7ggreenil7 Member Posts: 4
    Hi Shawn,
    Took my Tahoe in Friday, October 12th 2007, to Advantage Chevy in Boling Brook IL, they had the SUV there the entire day and told me they could not hear and identify the problem, of course I was pissed. Now mind you I told them about this site and about other 2007 Tahoe owners having the same problem. Well, I took my truck home. This morning I took it back because the whistling got louder, again they said they could not hear it. Now, I am really upset. So they checked the GM service site, and found Document ID#1974648 (5/22/2007) Subject: "Power Steering High pitched Whistle Noise Heard". Man this document has been out there since May 22, 2007, and these guys did not know about it.
    Just to let everone know, GM is aware of the noise which is internal to the steering gear, and the engineers are investigating, they do not have a solution for this at this time. I am going to call GM, and would advised each of you to do the same. Don't stop calling until they fix this problem. BTW, it effects the following :
    2007 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, and EXT models, 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Silverado 1500, and Tahoe, 2007 GMC Sierra 1500, Yukon and Yukon XL. If anyone need additioanl information, hit me up. :mad:
  • lahunter2lahunter2 Member Posts: 2
    Yes you are correct that document has been out way before that, they said to replace the steering column prior they recalled that fix and said don't replace, and they still have not fixed the problem, I have set up many complaints with GM, I have had my 07 tahoe in the shop about 15 times for this problem, not to mention all the other problems. The dealership SUCKS and is NOT helpful, and GM has been the same!!
  • seabyrdseabyrd Member Posts: 32
    Hi.. Doesn't the "Lemon Law" state if a problem isn't fixed after 3 times in the shop for the same problem.. you can get a refund (full) on your vehicle or a new vehicle?? You must make sure that each time you go into the shop you get the visit documented for the same complaint...check it out.. I think it may vary from state to state.. but I think that's the law is Texas. Good Luck !!
  • shawnhackettshawnhackett Member Posts: 16
    Keep trying. I did convince Jim Reed Chevrolet in Nashville to replace the steering mechanism, and that fixed the problem for me.

    GM probably figures it's too expensive for them to have a nationwide recall if it's not a safety issue.

    They told me that the majority of owners can't even hear it. But my hearing is perfect, so it was driving me nuts too.

    I bought my 2007 Tahoe LTZ in February of 2006 and had the problem from day one, but only after the car warmed up after 15 minutes.

    It took a couple months of complaining, but they fixed it for me. Since I was the first in town with the LTZ, they probably felt it was in their best interest for PR to make me happy.

    My other problems since then have been...

    * Clock disappearing - I figured this out that having an MP3 CD with alot of songs overloads the software and kicks off the clock. Since I have my iPod hooked up, I don't need the CD anymore.

    * Power locks not working - it's been awhile since that was an issue and seemed to work itself out.

    * A/C compressor doesn't kick on, even set at 60. - This also seemed to work itself out.

    * DVD screen in the back cutting off after just a few minutes. - They replaced the entire upper screen unit and that still doesn't fix it. I have the GM Lockpick installed that overrides the DVD lock when moving, so I haven't really pushed this too much in case the Lockpick is messing it up.

    * Driver's side seat lumbar support has something broken in it. It doesn't push out at your back but pops. - I'll be taking this in shortly since I'm approaching the 36,000 mile limit.

    I really do love the LTZ 4x4 and it still rides great. I just got back from a 1000 mile roundtrip to Destin, FL and got 18.6 MPG averaging about 78 MPH.

    As long as my dealer has fixed my problems, I'm ok with first year glitches. They even put me in a free rental anytime I have to bring it in.

    I just hope I've gotten through the expensive stuff in the first 36k miles and they keep treating me well.
  • gfraigungfraigun Member Posts: 70
    "* Clock disappearing - I figured this out that having an MP3 CD with alot of songs overloads the software and kicks off the clock. Since I have my iPod hooked up, I don't need the CD anymore.

    * Power locks not working - it's been awhile since that was an issue and seemed to work itself out. "

    shawnhackett, I've referred some of these exact same issues to some attorney's and they are interested in hearing from more people with them. The address is http://www.wcclaw.com/CM/ClassActions/ChevyTruck.asp. I know I've given the address a lot, but some of these are the exact same issues that my attorney's are looking at.
  • csprickcsprick Member Posts: 21
    I just got my Ham Radio license and have a mobile rig on the way. In looking at my 07 Tahoe, it appears that the "best" place to mount the radio is under the front passenger seat . (The radio has a separate control head which I'll mount someplace on the dash.)

    My question is - How hard is it to remove the front passenger seat? Mine is NOT powered (I only have a driver's side powered seat.)

    I'm thinking I'll have to remove the seat only once, to mount the radio bracket to the floor. I think I can then install and/or remove the radio from the bracket without messing with the seat.

    Any other Hams out there with any advice for me?

    Chuck
    KE5RAD
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You might want to search on the internet. They make replacement consoles and/or equipment holders. The Tahoe and Suburban can be used by fire, police, and emergency workers, and there are companies that make a number of options for either replacing the console or mounting radio gear.

    I was looking a couple weeks ago for a platform to mount a laptop to, and got some good ideas. I don't have the time right now to give you some URL's, but they're pretty easy to find.
  • hardin_thickehardin_thicke Member Posts: 35
    If you'd like to see pictures of my Yaesu FT-8900 quad band installation, go to www.k0bg.com, click on "Photo Gallery", then "Other Installs", and go to Page 7. I have 11 pictures posted of my installation including 2 antenna mounts in the roof. Unfortunately, I could not use the area under my seat because of the power option. You'll be able to see where I mounted mine.

    Also, another good mounting location is on the passenger side of the console, as forward as far as the seat excursion. RTV the mount to the console, and you can easily remove it without leaving any holes.

    If you don't have the Bose option, remove the cup holder, and pull up sharply on the tray insert. It will unsnap and there might be a pretty large cavity underneath it. I don't know for sure becaue I have the Bose option on mine and that's where the sub enclosure and amp is located. vy 7 3, K3GM
  • saratogalakesaratogalake Member Posts: 19
    Hi Chuck, I'm K2WE and have been a ham for 43 years. I have an Icom IC-208H installed in my '07 tahoe. The main radio is just sitting under the drivers seat. I have the remote head sitting in the console. When I wish to use it, I put 2 small velcro strips just under the center dash AC/heating vents. I just stick the head in place and it works fine. I have the remote speaker sitting in the console. As for an antenna, I have a dual band Larsen on glass antenna mounted on the rear drivers side window.. It works very well.. I was going to drill a hole in the roof for an NMO mount but never got the chance..Another friend, Rick N2YME has 2 mounts drilled in the roof of his '07 Suburban and he easily snaked the coax thru the roof to his radios.. By the way, I drew the 13.8 volts from the fuse block located in the interior side panel just under the dash. I snaked the cable under the carpet and nothing shows.. Hope this helps..

    73 Steve at Saratoga Lake, NY ;)
  • jochampjochamp Member Posts: 3
    My 2007 Tahoe has had several issues, all covered by the warranty and not many have been fully resolved. My car is in right now for whistling. I had hired a sound specialist who rode in my car and found that the sound comes from the rear drive train. The sound occurs when the car is not in gear and is coasting at speeds of 45mph or more. The dealer has found that it is something to do with the rear pinion (I am not quite sure of the exact wording), but I am hoping that the sound stops for I have had it since day one of owning the car. I too can realte as to how annoying it is.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Where does one go to find a "sound specialist"?

    I know that GM has a "vibration specialist" that connects to the frame and can identify the location of vibrations.
  • dmyer3dmyer3 Member Posts: 17
    Last month my message center had a "service 4wd" message. It has been to the dealer 3 times and still not fixed. They replaced a wheel speed sensor and did some work on the wiring without success. They called GM and they suggested replacing the transmission control module, but it's on backorder so am just waiting. Dealer has been working hard but it seems to be an elusive problem.
    Anybody else have this problem or have heard of it?
    Don
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Shawn, did you get your whistling situation resolved yet?

    I just noticed tonight a static noise which sounds like it is coming thru the radio, while idling or running at low speed. Radio is off, a/c and blowers off.

    Does anyone have a copy of the above Document ID 1974648? .... or has a definitive fix been issued?
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    jochamp said: The sound occurs when the car is not in gear and is coasting at speeds of 45mph or more.
    ____________________________________________________________
    My question to you is why do you drive your vehicle at 45mph with the transmission out of gear? This is considered a dangerous practice. If the noise only occurs in this scenario then just keep the gear engaged.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    can handle the load of towing your 25' boat before doing anything else. There are quite a few drop kits available but it seems bags might suit you better since you will still be towing.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    20s with 275/55R20 works nice as a stock sized replacement. However 22s IMO look a lot better. Course the ride difference between 22 and 20 is almost as substantial as moving from 16 or 17 to 20s.

    BTW I run 20s on a black Denali with a 1/3 drop and kept the stock self leveling shocks.
  • csprickcsprick Member Posts: 21
    Thanks, to all of you who responded to my post, for the great advice. www.k0bg.com is a wonderful reference page. Proves once again that the Internet is a super source of information, if you just ask the right people! :)

    73's

    Chuck
    KE5RAD
  • megozamegoza Member Posts: 2
    I have a 4WD 2007 Tahoe LT. Sometimes when I crank it in the mornings, it moves a little bit like the transmission is in gear, but it is still in "Park". It doesn't happen all the time, just occasionally. Does anyone else have that problem?
  • megozamegoza Member Posts: 2
    Yes, there is a small gap but not enough to hurt anything. I ordered mine from Cabelas, who is turn gets them from Weather Tech.
  • tony97gttony97gt Member Posts: 20
    #2802 of 2807 Lowering Kit by tony97gt Oct 21, 2007 (5:52 pm)

    Okay guys I need some professional advice. I am purchasing some 24" rims. I am looking to lower my hoe to close up the gap in the wheel well. I would like to keep as close as possible to my factory ride. I don't want a lowrider (rephrased for those politically correct sensitive people)that bounces all over the place. I also have a 25ft boat I need to tow. Can someone recommend a good but somewhat inexpensive lowering kit? I don't want the cheapest or the most expensive, but I want to do things right. :lemon:

    I just ordered the chrome mesh grille with tow hook covers and the chrome door handles. I think the last piece of chrome I am going to get is the chrome bow tie for the front grille. I already did the trick with the back bowtie and removed the gold cover to make the tie chrome.
  • tripwiretripwire Member Posts: 10
    All,

    Thanks for all the info on the sound that my truck makes. I have been to busy to bring it back to the dealership, but did talk to my new service manager. He stated to me that he had two other Tahoes in for the same reason last week. Not sure if they fixed them or just started to replace random things. I guess I will find out next week when I drop off mine.

    Shawn, I will pass along the info you provided along with the GM doc number about the power steering and see what happens. One thing that got me was that he mentioned it could be a vacuum problem. Anything is possible I guess.

    Dave
  • csprickcsprick Member Posts: 21
    I recently installed a 2 meter ham radio in my '07 Tahoe. The radio is connected directly to the battery terminal clamp bolts via crimp-on lugs, using the manufacturer's extension kit cables. I also have the manufacturer's noise filter in the line.

    When the radio is on and I start the vehicle, the radio immediately shuts down and "reboots" as the Tahoe starts. When I shut down the Tahoe, the radio stays on, as it should.

    The vehicle/battery is about 16 months old and I've experienced no other electrical issues with it. I measure just a hair over 12 volts at the radio's power connection with the vehicle shut off.

    I'm suspecting that the starter pulls such current that the radio loses power and restarts, but am not sure:

    a. if this is harmful to the radio
    b. if I could correct this by installing a more heavy duty battery
    c. if there is anything else I could/should do to keep the radio on
    during starting

    Thoughts/comments/suggestions would be appreciated.
  • tony97gttony97gt Member Posts: 20
    I'm not an electrical expert, but I wonder if a capacitor would do the trick? They are commonly used in car audio applictions when you have a heavy duty amplifier which pulls more electricity than the battery has in store. The capacitor stores extra juice so when the amp hits hard and needs extra juice, it comes from the capacitor. This is what allows the amplifier to keep kicking without a surge. Maybe someone with more expertise can ellaborate.
  • hardin_thickehardin_thicke Member Posts: 35
    Some rigs are sensitive to voltage drops, and yours sounds like it's droping below the shutdown threashold. I have an Yaesu FT-8900, and it is stays on fine during starting. To answer your questions:

    a) I doubt it.
    b) Perhaps. But I'd first check the rating of the existing battery to see how much improvement you can obtain.
    c) You know that extra battery tray on the other side of the vehicle? I'd populate that one with another battery, and either wire them in parallel, or get a battery isolator like they use on RV's. If you wire them in parallel, I'd go with 2 brand new, like batteries. I had this on my diesel pickup and I'd could operate for hours without fear of running the batteries down. gl es vy 73
  • jntjnt Member Posts: 316
    When the starter kicks in, the Battery voltage would drop. That is the reason why your ham radio reset: it probably doe not work at lower voltage.

    I doubt that having low voltage is harmful to the radio unless the radio is not designed for true automotive conditions: extreme hot and cold temperature, some voltage transients,...

    Having a heavy duty battery may help provided the starting system does not drag the voltage down beyond the working threshold of your ham radio.

    One caution about connecting the ham radio (or any electronic equipment) directly to the battery: make sure this one does not draw to much juice (low standby current) while the vehicle is off and ignition is off. If not, you end up draining your Tahoe's battery in no time. Radio can draw 1-2 Amp while it is in normal working mode. But in stand by mode (ignition off) , most car radios draw less than 1mA (1/1000 of an Amp).

    jt
  • txyukontxyukon Member Posts: 3
    Shawn,
    The service manager at Jim Reed Chevrolet said they wouldn't release any service records unless the customer authorized it.

    I still have the whistling issue...every time I take it in the service managers say they don't hear anything; except once, they said it was a brake pad sticking. All of my passengers can hear it...all of the time.

    This is irritating the hell out of me because it's now like fingernails on the chalkboard every time I drive.

    Can you post the details of the service or send me an email (set up a temp email since this is posted) at whistlingyukon@yahoo.com?
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    My 2007 Z-71 4x4 Tahoe has been flawless so far - great ride - great power - better MPG than the 2001 2WD it replaced - my one complaint - the $%$@#@%$#%$ windshield wiper makes a $#$%&^$@$&^& clicking noise - TAP TAP TAP

    From the drivers side only - I have switched the blades from side to side and the noise is still on the drivers side -

    Right at the point where the wiper blade changes direction and starts moving back down I get the TAP sound - I think it is the hard plastic piece that connects the windshield wipper to the wiper arm hitting the glass.

    Does anyone have this same issue?

    I think replacing the blade with a different style may solve it - but I have not found anyone who sells a replacement blade for the 2007 -

    Michelin makes one but I could not see how the darn thing would attach to my vehicle - unless I use a part from my Tahoe (which is broken)
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Comes with a 5 year warranty.

    http://www.silblade.com/ or here

    ebay motors
  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    The site says they don't carry one for 2007 Chevys.
This discussion has been closed.