Dodge Durango Maintenance and Repair

kyman · October 2010

I have a 2001 Durango SLT 4.7l that has just started running hot. It doesn't run hot when driving, only when sitting at idle with the transmission in drive. If I'm in stop and go traffic, it only takes a couple of minutes for the temp gauge to spike. But, I can drive it for an hour then come home and park it in my driveway and let it idle for 10 min with the trans in Park and it won't get hot. Does anyone know what could be going on?

burdawg · October 2010

Assuming the coolant is topped up and there's no serious leaks:
1. The clutch on the fan is bad and the fan is not running at the right speed
2. The radiator is clogged with corrosion and the coolant flow is restricted
3. The water pump impeller is worn and not circulating the coolant

When your not in stop and go traffic there's usually enough air flow through the radiator to keep it cool with out the fan running fast. My gut feeling would be to look towards #1 first, based on your description. There's also an electric fan but it runs when the A/C is on to assist in cooling the condenser in front of the radiator.

john1986 · October 2010

Same here! ALOT of people having this problem. This should be a recall but dodge does not honor their work so here is the solution to your problem. You need to replace your ecm computer and your idle air control motor and valve. If you only replace the computer in about 2 years it will fry out again giving you this problem that you have now. Trust me. Spent way to much time and money on my wife's 2000 durango! This is the only cure to this problem. Don't go and blow your hard earned money on the dodge dealer they don't care about people like you and me. Take care.

rods3 · October 2010

baffled! fuel pressure at 60 psi, no leak down, all 4 O2 sensor new, egr new, all new plugs, wires, B&G cleaner for intake, injectors, fuel system. starts great cold. runs fine while driving. no codes! any suggestions?

debrob1981 · October 2010

my truck was doing the same thing..started great cold but when hot it would turn over but not fire til 15 or longers minutes than would start. we took it to advance cause we had no codes, they put the little machine on it and it said my camshaft sensor was bad, we bought it for $18 and put it on and so far no problems...been about 3 weeks now.

chendricks · November 2010

I have a 2002 Durango SLT and my blower motor resistor wiring harness connector just burned up. The Dealer wants $700 to fix it. I went to area junk yards to see if I could find and replace the part myself. I saw many Durangos with the connector and resistor already cut out. The staff all advised that they are a hot item that they can't keep in stock. Their view is that this frequent problem is the result of a design flaw that should have been the subject of a recall. They also suggested I try Ebay. Has Dodge taken a position on this problem? I would appreciate any other advice available.

burdawg · November 2010

I finally changed the heater core in my 2000 Durango over the weekend. No big surprises, but the instructions I downloaded off the internet that were supposed to be right out of the factory manual were useless and ended up in the trash right away.
I found it was easier to take the front seats out. For the 15-20 minutes it took it was worth it. The steering column didn't need to come out, just dropped to the floor. I wish I had removed to console also (bucket seats) since the center support for the dash has a bracket that gets in the way when trying to set the dash back in. It would have been easier to remove it but the console would have to come out to do it.
There's lots of connections to de mate. The lower nut that holds the plenum assembly is very difficult to get to, I removed the right front wheel and the wheel well plastic liner to get to it. It's right behind the right head (the transmission dipstick tube is also there) but it can be done. The expansion valve connected to the evaporator core needs to be removed before the plenum since it has a bracket attached that won't go through the firewall hole.
The new core was an aftermarket and is slightly different in shape. The tabs down in the bottom of the plenum housing had to be modified. The instructions said to remove them, but I used a Dremel tool and modified them just enough to get it to fit. I was concerned it would rattle around otherwise.
Since it's necessary to discharge the A/C I also replaced the evaporator core ( I was advised it's a good idea) but the old one was just like new. New receiver/drier also, but that's typical when opening up an A/C system anyway.
No trouble reconnecting the A/C parts (use new seals and o-rings) and pumping it down. I haven't been able to fully charge it yet since I ran out of time and it really isn't warm enough out to do it right anyway.
The hardest thing was getting the two support bars under the steering column back in. They look like they're an afterthought anyway. Those instructions I downloaded didn't say anything about them.........
This isn't a job for the faint of heart. I wouldn't have tried it if I didn't have the tools and experience of having done it to other cars before. Overall it took me about 10-11 hours total.

bigh29 · December 2010

First, I want to thank all of the people that have contributed to this thread. My 2000 durango (4.7 L) began suffering from the same problem in mid October: p0171, black soot coming out of the exhaust, horrible mileage, and dirty smelling exhaust. I was able to fix the problem on my own using this thread, and a few others I found on the internet.

Here is a summary of my repairs, and some pictures I took at the end. My fix is very similar to the one that ncdodgeowner did.

Oxygen sensor wiring and description of the problem:The pre-cat OEM O2 sensor from Mopar has four wires: Heater+ (black), Heater/Chassis Ground (black), Signal+ (blue), and Signal ground (white). These wires comprise two distinct circuits: the heater circuit and the sensor circuit.

The colors on the truck side are: Heater+ (Orange/Dark Green stripe), Heater Ground (solid black), Signal+ (Light Green/Red stripe), Signal Ground (Black/Blue stripe). Note that the signal+ color is different for other engine sizes (Tan/white for the 5.2L and 5.9L engines).

The power steering switch shares a common splice with the heater ground on the O2 sensor. This is the source of fluid contamination at the O2 sensor. However, the heater circuit is not impacted. PS fluid is not a great conductor. The heater circuit is low impedance already. PS fluid has too much resistance to prevent the heater from working. My repair strategy relies on this.

The sensor part of the circuit has a much higher impedance. The sensor works by producing a voltage between 0.1 V (lean) and 0.9 V (rich). However, this voltage isn't very strong, and must be terminated with a high impedance load: such as a digital voltmeter or the high impedance input into the PCM. According to a few articles I found, a load of 10k to 100k ohms would be enough to load down an O2 sensor. Although PS fluid isn't a great conductor, it has a low enough resistance to intefere with this high impedance circuit.

My fixes: I decided on a course of action that I was capable of implementing, and that was likely to prevent the problem from happening again. I couldn't raise the front of my durango up very high, so I wanted to minimize my work from underneath. I also incorporated what I though were the best ideas from the various solutions. Here is a summary of my strategy :
Replace power steering switch. Click here to see picture
Clean up wiring harness with electrical cleaner as best I could.
Cut and resolder PS switch wires. I decided that I wanted a solder splice blocking a future PS switch failure and fluid leak. So I cut the PS wires and respliced with the heat shrink butt connector. I could have tried this approach at the oxygen sensor, but it was easier to do this up top under the hood.
Install new Mopar OEM O2 sensor (PN 56028233AA). Cut the two signal wires (blue and white) and run them up to the PCM in a separate wiring harness.
Leave the two black heater wires on the new sensor intact. Connect to the existing connector on the truck to complete the heater circuit.

I purchased these materials: 10 ft of black corrugated harness tubing
18 gauge wire (needed 12 ft total, bought 40 ft). Recommend buying two different colors.
18 gauge sealed connectors (red). Click here to see picture
18 gauge, heat shrink butt connectors with solder ring inside. Click here to see picture
friction tape.
various gauges of heat shrink tubing.
heat gun (didn't already have one, this was $59)
I already owned everything else that I needed.

Here are the steps I followed to re-route the signal wires:
Install new O2 sensor.
Prepared signal harness by cutting 6' of corrugated tubing, and fed through two 18 gauge wires. I marked one wire to identify it. I should have just bought two different colors of wire.
From below the truck, I snaked my fish tape up to the top, following the transmission dipstick. From above, I taped my new harness to the fish tape, and then pulled the tape back through.
I cut the blue and white wires on the new O2 sensor close to the connector. I crimped on the red connectors and tried to seal them up with heat shrink tubing.
Crimped mating connectors to the wires in my harness and connected them.
Re-connected the gray sensor connector to the mating truck connector. That connector will continue to close the heater circuit.
Up top, I snaked my harness behing the jumbo wiring harness and attached with a zip tie.
Sliced open the cloth wrapping around the harness and located two light green/red wires. One is for the oxygen sensor, and the other is for the transmission.
Picked one wire via coin flip, and shaved a little insulation off it.
Disconnected the C1 connector on the PCM. The PCM has three big harnesses coming into it. C1 is the rearmost, black, connector.
Pin 24 on the C1 connector connects to the wire that we want. I measured continuity between pin 24 and the wire that I shaved. As luck would have it, I guessed wrong. So I taped up that wire and repeated with the other light green/red wire.
Once I had the O2 sensor wire identified, I cut it. I soldered the correct wire from my new harness to the cut wire that heads to the PCM, and sealed it up with heat shrink tubing. The other cut end is left open. I tucked it up into the harness.
Inside the jumbo harness are several black wires with a light blue stripe. These all connect to signal ground, so I a convenient picked one. I shaved a little insulation off, and soldered the sensor ground wire from my harness to it. Note that you cant cut this wire. Whatever is downstream needs to still be connected. I taped up this 3 way splice with electrical tape.
I taped up the jumbo harness with friction tape, and secured my new harness.
Reconnected the C1 connector to the PCM.

I wish I would have taken some pictures during my repairs. But in reality, nothing went as smoothly as my list makes it appear. I did a number of things wrong. I have attached pics of the final outcome.
PCM and harness view
View of splice at O2 sensor connector. Not a great pic.

PS: If you tap into the wrong light green/red wire, your truck will function. But the shift indicator for the transmission will behave goofy (all gears will illuminate in park and neutral), and your check engine light will come on with P0132 exactly 4 minutes after starting the vehicle. Don't ask me how I know this.

burdawg · December 2010

I'm getting an error code P0141 which is a heater problem on #2 O2 sensor on bank 1. I'm assuming this is the drivers side, sensor after the catalyst. Am I correct? 2000 SLT 4.7L.

911dave · December 2010

I also have a 2004 Dodge Durango that makes a Humming sound after turning the ignition off. The sound seems to come from the exhaust system just in front of the transmission and lasts from 8 to12 seconds. 5.7Lhemi w/164,000 miles. Any ideas ?? Exaust gasket, cat converter, erg system?? Exhaust flow seems strong, no engine lights, runs cool, good fuel mileage, norm eng temp.

trombonehooker · January 2011

did you ever get this problem fixed? I have the same problem on my 05 durango. once I changed the battery the cargo door and the tire pressure indicators came on

mlindsey75 · February 2011

My durango recently started drinking gas, I calculated about 7mpg. I have no idea what could be causing this.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2011

Holy crap! How does it run?

burdawg · February 2011

Is the engine light on? Something is causing it to run rich, quite often an O2 sensor problem.

stever · February 2011

If you live in or near DC and have had fuel spitback issues with your car, please email pr@edmunds.com before Monday, February 28, 2011 to be interviewed by a reporter. Please include your daytime contact information and the year, make and model of your car.

lindsay2011 · March 2011

I am trying to replace the neutral safety switch on a 99 Dodge Durango....would anyone know exactly where it is located on the vehicle....Thanks.

Mr_Shiftright · March 2011

which engine?

2WD or 4WD?

johnsdad308 · March 2011

I have a 2000 5.9 hemi Durango and am having a vacuum problem. The check engine light indicates either a speed sensor issue or a vacuum seal issue, but when I accelerate the check engine light blinks and the truck is very sluggish. My gas mileage has plummetted. Anyone have any ideas how I can remedy this using my average joe tools and regular house garage?

megan99 · April 2011

:confuse: New and hoping to get help. Searched to see if anyone had a similar problem but haven't found any postings. I own a 2001 Dodge Durango (SLT Plus, 4.7L, V8, 4WD) and never had a big problem with it until just a few months ago when the wipers, interior/exterior lights, autolocks, and horn started going off on their own. Not all at once but like one after the other. Took it to the Dealer and they said it was the latch switch to the Tail Gate (back door) that "the computer thinks it's open and so it's causing all these problems." So they replaced the switch and charged me $515; But the car is still having the same problems so I brought it back and now their saying that it needs two other switches replaced and a new BCM and that it'll cost me $660 on top of the $515 I already paid. I felt ripped off. So I took it to another Dodge Dealer for a 2nd opinon and they said the BCM is dead and needs to be replaced and they'll do everything for $585 (part, labor & tax) and once installed and programmed, they'll retest for other possible issues. Because I didn't know who to believe, I went to a third person, a mechanic who specializes in eletrical issues. He says that all these symptoms lead to one thing....the BCM. That once replaced, all these issues will disappear. I've read in other Dodge forums that my problem really lies in the BCM. So, I'm inclined to believe that this is the real issue. I've also learned that this part is very expensive. The Mechanic said the part alone cost $650, $320 for his labor and diagnostic charge, plus tax. So now I'm between a rock and a hard place b/c, although, the 2nd Dodge Dealer's diagnostic sounds right and is cheaper, who's to say they won't turn around and attempt to rip me off just like the 1st Dealer did. And I can't go with the Mechanic b/c he's too expensive. If anyone has gone through a similar problem, your thoughts and advise will be very much appreciated. Thanks! :confuse:

saint6 · April 2011

Hello I have a 1999 5.9L mag durango and I'm having an issue. While driving out of town we pulled over after smelling burning oil and seeing smoke from under the car. After the smoke cleared and it cooled down I looked under the durango and I could see tons of oil spray all over... Sooo obviously being out of town I freaked out and was worried we wouldn't make it back. At some point we just decided to finish the trip to the destination and could still smell the oil but never had smoke again and also after the 300+ miles we had to put on the durango to finish the trip had never (and still havent) any oil hit the ground while idle and or parked. I should also add that we never had to add oil. That being said I checked all other fluid levels and took it to a shop to get expert advice. Upon speding an hour and a test drive on the durango the mechanic told me that we were leaking tons of oil and if it wasnt leaving puddles it would be now and told me that his best guess was the rear main seal but without adding dye and a good undercarrage steam clean he coulnd't be sure.... Well to date we have not added oil and have not left puddles, drops, or any oil under the durango but still get a horrid oil smell.. I would like some ideas as to what this may be. One other person looked at it told me that he doubts it's a rms because it would be leaking like crazy and he said it's more likely that the head is leaking from the back of the seal.

tonigirl1 · April 2011

For everybody that has a 2000 Durango and is having a hard time with the start and idoling, all you need is a Air Charged Temperature Sensor. It cost 25.00 and it is sold at Advanced Auto Parts for sure, Auto Zone doesn't carry it at all. SO STOP SPENDING ALL THAT UNNECESSARY MONEY ON ALL THOSE OTHER PARTS. THIS IS THE PART TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM!!! YAYYYYY!!!!!!

lauriew76 · April 2011

i had this problem with my 02 durango...it only happened when the headlighs were on though...i pulled the relay fuse and left it out for a day or 2...and it has never happened again. hope i helped...

tp11 · May 2011

I have a 2004 dodge durango that makes that EXACT noise. WOndering if you ever figured out why it does that. I am also having problems with it idleing rough whenever I go through the car wash or it rains. ANybody know why??

79cj5 · May 2011

This is my oldest sons car. As it turned out, he ran it out of gas multiple times and refused to admit it. There was some trash in the fuel lines; but the main problem was air in the lines. I removed the air by depressing the valve on the fuel rail, ( it looks like an air valve on your car tire), it's around your carb/throttle body. I kept it pressed down until I had a steady flow of fuel only, no air gaps. I had to turn my engine over a few times to rebuild the fuel pressure in lines.
I don't know if this will help you, but it only takes a second to find out if there is air in your lines. Don't purge the line over grass, it will kill that section of your lawn.

dmack0007 · May 2011

I have a 5.2L 2000 Dodge Durango. I tried to drive it yesterday, and it cut out at the stop sign before I left my neighborhood. I can start it; it turns over and starts fine, but as soon as I take my foot off the gas and it decelerates to idle speed, it cuts out. I can't even drive it. There was no check engine light or anything. Where should I start?

larrydoyle · June 2011

I am experiencing the same problem when I tow a trailer. I just ordered a new Timbren Bump Stops to replace the stock bump stops. These new ones are longer and have a progressive overload spring inside. Instead of the unloaded bump stops being 4" off the axle these should be about 1/2" to 1" off the axle. When I connect the trailer with the Equil-i-zer hitch the back end goes down about 2 - 2 1/2". Therefore, in theory, the new bump stops should engage the entire time I'm towing. I'm hopeful this is a good fix or I'm going to have to buy a bigger truck! I'll let you know how it works out. Here is the link. http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7540

wturns · June 2011

I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM BUT WITH MY BACK HATCH. DID YOU FIND THE SOURCE OF THE PROBLEM

cthorsen41 · June 2011

Did you end up getting it fixed? I have a 2001 Durango that started doing that 2 months ago. It stopped for a while started again. When the horn went off for no reason I pulled out the fuse. This week it started again, spazzing out, wipers going off, warning bell, flickering lights. When it stopped, it returned to normal, but now the headlights don't turn on (the dash doesn't even dim), the interior lights don't turn on and no power locks. the rear wiper is stuck in it's position and the front wipers only work when turned on their highest setting. Is that similar to what happened with yours? Mechanically everything works great. I was wondering if it was the BCM or just a short in the wiring. Did it cost $980 in the end?

robpirog · July 2011

I have a 99 Durango 5.9L V8. Whenever I've been driving it for a while, it will start hunting/jumping between 3-4 gear. I know I have a misfire on cylinder 3, and have recently replace the ignition coil and throttle position sensor. I have also adjusted the throttle valve cable. It feels like once something gets to a certain temperature, the transmission keeps jumping in and out of overdrive.
I have experimented actually turning off the overdrive when this happens, and it seems to take care of it (there is still some very very sporatic hunting that goes on). I also experimented with letting cruise control take over the other day, and that seemed to elimintate it all together (that was for about the remaining 12 or so miles remaining on my daily commute. I'm going to try it again for as much of the commute as I can; 32 miles).
I noticed in some other posts, that some folks had the same situation but it was happening more with cruise control on.
Does anyone have any thoughts on my particular circumstances? Help!!!

toltec · July 2011

On my way home i smelled something funny and noticed my car was smoking. I opened up the hood and noticed that the coil pack on cylinder 1 had busted open on the opposite side of the connections. I thought it was oil but looking at it closer it was melted plastic or rubber.

I went out and purchased another coil pack from the dealership today and installed it. I let the engine run for about 5 minutes and the same thing happened.

Why is this happening? How do i fix the issue? Any info would be greatly appreciated cause i don't know too much about engine repair.

Thanks.

flmike · August 2011

I have an 01 Durango. It seems to happen sooner when it is very hot outside or once the truck warms up. The wipers, horn, door dinger, and security light on dash all flicker. The door locks lock and unlock, and if the headlights are on they flicker also. I have figured out this much, if I take the fuse out that is labeled over H/D console purge it all stops, but my A/C stops working with that fuse out I think it is something in alam but unsure. If anybody has any Ideas please let me know

assistchief52 · August 2011

From what I have seen and mine just went too and the job to replace it on a 2000 Durango is about a 2 hour job that requires the removal of the dash and dropping the steering column. The core is located between the radio and the glove box.

burdawg · August 2011

Two hour job? More like eight hours. You'll need to discharge the A/C since the evaporator is in the same housing and it will need to be disconnected.
It wasn't recommended but I also removed the front seats for better access, and the fender liner on the right side to get to the nuts that hold the plenum on the firewall easier.
This is not a job for a beginner.

wolff15 · September 2011

Did you ever find a solution to this problem? My 2002 Durango just started having the same issue.

Thank you.

stoutr · October 2011

Similar problem with my 2005 Durango. The dealer completed some recall work that involved replacing the entire instrument cluster. Since then, the CD player does not work (unable to select CD player). Although I occationally hear things shuffling around in there. Took it back to the dealer and they report all wiring connections are good and the player has power. Told me the remedy is to replace the radio ($650)

raull · October 2011

I have recently noticed a metalic pinging coming from the undercarriage of my 2006 Durango. The pinging is sporatic (every 5-8 seconds), can be heard when driving the backroads (< 35 mph) and continues after the engine is shut off for a short period. My local mechanic checked it out and identified the ping is coming from the catalytic converter but did not recommend replacing it. He could not determine the cause of the ping - any ideas?

Thanks,

Raul L.

stevesider · October 2011

i had the same problem and i changed all kind of parts including the fuel pump in the gas tank which i didnt need to do.
all it was was a upstream O2 sensor { the front one on the drivers side}
that took cake of the problem. i think the part at the parts store was only about $30.00 and it fix it.
have fun
PS- it is on the y pipe coming down off the engine on drivers side and the closest one to the front

georgeniven · November 2011

Hello everyone.

First of all, I hope I've posted this in the correct section. Forgive me If I haven't. I'm ok with it being moved to its correct forum section if need be.

Anyways, I own a 2000 Dodge Durango. This car has been great to me since I purchased it used from a buddy just over a year ago. It's fulfilled its job quite well, while sparing me any headache. However, just yesterday my car overheated on me. When I got home I inspected its radiator and found that this part was to blame. It showed signs of leakage and a majority of the fins were severely bent. I know that replacement is my only option at this point, but before I do so, I'd like some advice. I've decided to purchase an aftermarket version online, but don't know which companies are reputable. I've found two that I particularly like but before I buy from one of them, I'd like some sort of verification that they are a legitimate business. I almost never buy anything online so I don't know how to spot a scam, and I can't afford to be scammed.

Has anyone dealt with either of the following companies and can verify that they are a legitimate company? The parts on each site match the OEM number of the part I need.. Thanks in advance.

http://www.radiatorspot.com/dodge/durango/radiators.html#MjAyNjY
or
http://www.acpartshouse.com/showitem.aspx?id=122312&googwd368916

stever · November 2011

I'd crosscheck them with RockAuto.com.

burdawg · November 2011

A/C Parts House is reputable. Make sure you get the HD radiator, for the few dollars more it's much better.
Also, if the heater core is original I'd check it for leaks also.

ducky68 · December 2011

My Durango is a 2001, 4.7 liter with 2WD. There are a few problems with it, and I would really love some guidance, as I just can't afford to trade it in and get an even higher payment. First, when it's a cold start, regardless of the weather, the crank takes several tries before it turns over. Then, once it has turned over, there are times where it will idle, and times where I have to hold down the accelerator pedal for a few minutes before I can ease off of it and let the idle take over. Second, my right turn signal has quick. When it first happened, I could smack my fist into the dash just behind the steering wheel and it would work for a few blinks, but not even that will work for now. The light on the dash just doesn't even come on. Next, my left brake light has stopped working. I have replaced the bulb, the socket and then the entire light assembly, complete with the attached circuit board. Nothing has made any difference. All the other problems are easy, and I can take care of them. The three listed above are the ones that I'm having a hard time with. Anyone have these problems and been able to find solutions? (Left turn signal and right brake light work, by the way)

debbie72 · March 2012

I have a 1999 Dodge Durango and was given a remote that used to go to another Dodge. I have replaced the battery but still cannot get it to program to my Durango. I have followed the instructions for reprogramming but it still won't work, short of going to a dealer and paying $$$$$ is there something else I can do to get it to program to my Durango?

stevesider · March 2012

hi debbie- i have a 2000 durango and had the same problem and it was on dodge.com is where i found my answer which is you need to give them the number off the back of the remote and insist that it have the dodge rams head on the remote or it will not work and do not let them tell you that they are all the same because they are not. i cant remember what i paid {i think $20} but alot cheaper than the dealer. this should take care of you.
hammer

mort58 · April 2012

Did you find a repair for your front heater fan not working? I just experienced a similiar problem. The first 2 speeds don't work, but the fan works great on high speed.

mort58 · April 2012

Did you find a repair for your front heater fan not working? I just experienced a similiar problem. The first 2 speeds don't work, but the fan works great on high speed.

rolyan · May 2012

Removed tire, Upper shock absorber fasteners, lower bracket retaining bolt, stabilizer bar link upper nut. How do I get the thing off?

michaelkolosey · May 2012

I have a 2000 Dodge Durango 4.7ltr. Check Engine light is on, so I pluged in OBD2 and came up with 7 codes.
PO304 Cyl 4 misfire
PO302
PO306
Replaced all 8 spark plugs and direct coils.

Still have the same error messages (302,304,306).

In addition to the PO302, 304, 306, I also have PO300, PO351, PO352 and PO135. Can you help?

LASHAWN · May 2012

The P0300 code is a random misfire code, P0351, P352 and P135 could be either a bad coil over plug, bad wiring harness/connector in coil or PCM internal fault. Recommend you take to dealer to address those codes since it's probable that the PCM may have to be reflashed.

Mr_Shiftright · May 2012

USUALLY (caveat) having this many codes all thrown at once does suggest a PCM issue.

momwilliams08 · June 2012

i a too experiencing the same problem in my 2004 dodge durango limited,,, my engine stalls during heavy rains and turn off when i am at traffic lights. i found out the oxygen sensor needs to be replaced. only had the truck for 3 months....

Dodge Durango Maintenance and Repair

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