Dodge Dakota Problems. Please help!

mopar67 · July 2001

have nothing but praise for the 45RFE. And I sincerely hope that those who have good luck with it continue to do so. Unfortunately I have not.
And if you look further, there are others who have had trouble with Mopar auots (besides the 45RFE)
Does yours slam on a 2-3 upshift in regular ordinary driving? Does it lurch hard enough on a 3-2 or 2-1 downshift enough to make you spill your cofee? Or other drink? Mine sure does.
As of this writing, I am awaiting a response to my letter to Chrysler on what they intend to do about mine.
Anyway, thats my opinion and I am not backing down.
Best wishes to you with your 45RFE and I hope it serves you well in years to come.

decentman4you · July 2001

I have No Problems what-so-ever with the transmission, and I have Thoroughly read all of the post's here and looked and listened for any and all Possible problems with regards to the Drivetrain after the engine, and I have found None :-) The only thing that seems to be reccommended is to change the differential fluid to a synthetic based fluid, of which I have not done yet.....

My Present 2001 ordered directly from the the Factory, recieved 8 August 2000, QC 4x4, lsd, 3.55 T&H, HD everything, Amberfire, 4.7L auto AWD, tow pkg factory installed, I got everything except for Leather, sliding rear window, an cd-in-dash, and I have the TITLE

saskquad · July 2001

I have a 2001 4.7 L LSD 3.55 . It shifts smooth as silk 99% of the time , I love passing with it ,very smooth and responsive . The only time it hits a little hard is 2-3 shift after accelerating from a stop moderately and then letting off just as it's shifting. This seems to confuse it a little.

I think you should accelerate hard foot to the floor just once in a while to clean out the cobwebs feels good too, and no 5300 rpm is not too high to rev. No need for a redline the auto trans wont let you over rev. I' ve also read somewhere here of a rev limiter but I've never hit it I just keep hitting the speed limiter at 97 just when it starts to feel right.

bja4 · July 2001

Automatics are great as long as nothing breaks. Even if you have a extended warranty like I did (7/70), it can still be a nightmare. I bought a used (30k) 92 4x4 Sport Dakota with 5.2L engine and it sat in the service department more than it did in my own driveway during the first three months I owned it. The truck shifted from 4th to 2nd when stepping on the gas hard at highway speeds. Can you say "RED LINE". The dealership tried to rebuild it the first two times, and were going to a third time. I stopped them, and demanded a new transmition. I was tired of having the truck taken apart. Finally, they got the o. k. from the big-wigs and installed a new transmition. About $10,000 later and the truck was fixed under warranty. I never had another transmition problem. Don't let the dealership rebuild your automatic. They should have stuck a new transmition in from the start. Do yourself a favor and destroy whats left of the transmition, so that replacement will be the only option.

When our family grew by one, 1.5 years ago, I went looking for an extended cab Dakota to replace the standard cab. I only found v6 5-spd combos. I test drove a used 96 and did not like much about it. Then I drove two new 2000 Dakotas with the 4.7Ls. One had the new 5-spd, and the other the new automatic. I really like the new auto, but I have never ever had a problem with a 5-spd. I also didn't like the maitanance schedule on the automatic. I then drove the 5-spd. The new 5-spd is nothing like the old. Shifts nice, cold or hot. I logged 135K miles on a 1979 Dodge-50 before the neighbor down the street smack it. The truck never leaked a drop of oil. I didn't buy the 5-spd (it was black and loaded). I finally had to order to get a truck with a v8, 5spd, 3.9 rear, one ton, combo. Very happy with our 2000 Club cab 4x4 Sport Plus.

klgee_99 · July 2001

I have a 2000 Club Cab Sport with a 3.9L V6, a 5 speed manual tranny and limited slip rear end. The truck has 21k miles (I got it at the end of '99), and overall I am very happy with it. The only problem I have is with the transmission popping out of 1st gear. I've taken it to the dealer, but of course they can't replicate the problem when it's there. It doesn't seem to happen during a particular type of driving or on a slope/pulling a load/etc., just from time to time the tranny decides to reject 1st gear when I'm starting from a stop. I do have the clunk sometimes when I'm shifting in the other gears, but I see from other posts that it seems to be an acceptable noise. If anyone else out there has info on this problem, please let me know.

jeglinton · July 2001

Hi all. Need some quick input (please also e-mail me directly so I can get it faster).
Just put a deposit on a '99 4x4 regular cab, Magnum V8 auto Dakota Sport.
Didn't know anything about them before tonight. Have been searching web for info.
Been seeing more negative stuff then expected.
Many things about transmission problems as well as some other less frequently, less serious problems mentioned.

So, what about the model I mentioned? Took it for brief test ride on thier test track. Seemed fine, but then again I don't know squat about automobiles!
Anything I should watch out for?
Please reply soon. Put $100 deposit and waiting for money to come (within a week). Need to know if I'm walking right into trouble, or if my particular model is ok.
Thanks very much.

Jonathan E.
colubrid1@home.com

scottieeck · July 2001

I've had Gretchen since November, over 6,000 miles. I have not had problem at all with the tranny except that it is not as responsive as I am used to. I used to drive a stick, but my lovely bride talked me into an auto ("if you get hurt you can still go to work", "I can drive it", Etc.,You know). I miss my stick, but I can't (yet) say a bad word about the 45RFE. She doesn't hesitate at mid RPMs, when I punch her she goes, and she is purty smooth. I still have my starting idle engine chirp, (which no one has replied about) and very rarely experience the early morning "idle giddups/stalls" which I hope to remedy soon.
I met a fella from Maryland with a QC he got about the same time as mine,who had trouble with his rotors. I'm not optimistic. He wasn't happy with the Leer Cap he got either.
Boo, I hope us PA boys don't miss you too much. There is a tear in my eye.BooHooKitty!
Pore ol' scottie

namfflow · July 2001

I have 2 Dakotas, one of them a 97 with the 5.2 liter (318) and 4 speed auto. It now has over 40K miles on it. The only problem I ever had was the catalitic converter craped out at 20K and was replaced under warranty. It has been such a good truck I bought an 01 to go along with this one.

Remember that as long as there is a web you will find horor stories about anything. I personally have not had any prpblems with Chrsyler vehicles and I have been a Mopar man since I had my 69 Super Bee which was also trouble free (wish I still had it).

ahasher · July 2001

you mentioned a starting idle engine chirp, and then you said you experience the early morning "idle giddups/stalls" in post 158. If I missed an idle question, I apologize. Between mopar67 and myself we seem to have the most recent experience with the 4.7 and rough idle conditions.. mine was ongoing for about 6 months before I got it resolved. While bpeebles and others can discuss the technical side of this, if you can give more details on what your idle condition is, I am wondering if is similar to the problem we had.

rascal · July 2001

Hi,
New to your board. I just inherited from my late brother-in-law, his Dakota. I drove it from Houston where he lived to Atlanta this weekend. The tranny shifted smooth as glass and has 60k miles. The truck has plenty of power too. Makes my 84 Nissan look pretty lame, so I sold the Nissan..think this is one helluva truck. Reminds me of the old days when Chevy put huge engines in those little Novas, nothing could beat them.
Rascal

rx4u · July 2001

I bought a new '99 Dakota Club Cab 4x4 and really dig the truck. Its plenty comfy & I'm 6'6'' & with the Intense Blue & Sport option, its one of the toughest looking trucks out there. It has the 318; I did this on purpose as I know they can run for ever if well taken care of. The gas mileage, for the most part sucks but I knew this gin into the purchase. For the record, its pretty much as the window sticker states, 13/18, so I cant blame I/C. I have NEVER taken it to a dealership, 1) cub haven't needed to; 2) cub most all dealerships suck & 3) I have a god-like mechanic friend who is honest and brilliant!

Like I said, I love the truck. Last winter, when we (Chicagoland) got dumped on, the truck felt very stable and in control; even it the deep stuff. The rear end breaks lose on wet pavement, but drop it into 4WH and problem solved.

To the point; I just turned 50K 80% of which is highway driving. The other 20 is short trips during the school yr. For the last 10k or so, Blue has been having the same problems as another post-re a few months ago..the tranny pops out of OD; at any speed. It'll slip out of gear, bump up the tach a few hundred RPMs or so and goes back. I've done all the suggested maintanence but havent used the mopar tranny fluid. I've never had any tranny overheat lights go on either.

My mechanic-god friend says the TCM chip needs to be reflashed and he cant do it...so I called a dealership. They say they can put it on a computer to see if it actually does. Given the past accolades of D/C techs and diagnostics, I'm a little wary.

Just lookin for some quality advice; thanks!

Plus I'm curious, to the guy with same problem...did you change to mopar tranny fluid and did it help.

namfflow · July 2001

The slippage sounds like it is directly related to using the wrong fluid. The mopar trannys are very sensitive to the fluid and is an area not to muck around with.

My suggestion: Refill the tranny with the correct mopar specified fluid.

mopar67 · July 2001

"I've done all the suggested maintanence but havent used the mopar tranny fluid."
As namfflow said, mopar trannies are extremely picky about the fluid they use.
Immediately (if not sooner) go down to your dealer, get the proper fluid, Type 7176 ATF+3 and a filter and gasket and change it out.
Want further proof?
Go to allpar.com and go to the maintenance section and read very carefully the section on transmissions...I realize it deals mostly with the A-604 ultradrive but what applies there in terms of fluid usage also applies to your dakota.
Good luck.

dodgetrukn · July 2001

Drove 10 mins, parked 10 mins with engine/headlights on..went and turned up inside dash lights
and on the left hand side of the thumbwheel, the dash was pretty warm. I was surprised a bit,
hoping just IR heat loss from that potentiometer/rheostat?? Hoping this is normal as I thought it
was a bit too warm. If others check and that location is cool, please post, otherwise I'll accept it as is. Ger.

henne · July 2001

if its a 2001 the fluid has changed to a atf+4 and its not 7176 anymore but i cant remember the number so check your owners manual

robert

henne · July 2001

they are all hot. dodge use to have a problem with the headlight switch wich is next to the thumbwheel over heating and going out when using the fog lights and headlights (i guess it couldnt handle the load). not sure if they fixed it but mine is hot without fog lights on and much hotter with fog lights. every dakota ive driven is the same way.

just my experience

robert

ahasher · July 2001

with the foglights on. I have taken it as normal, since I dont consider it "hot" just kinda warm. With 2 bulbs, 1 for the fog and 1 for the background lighting.. heat is expected.

bobs5 · July 2001

Have not noticed this. Will keep an eye out the next time the lights are used.
Bob

mopar67 · July 2001

In the winter I use it as a finger/thumb warmer. Far easier than reaching down to the floor.

ahasher · July 2001

out how to rig my coffee cup up to the light switch, I can have hot coffee all the way to work..

mopar67 · July 2001

insulated coffee mug. Works great and no more do I have to put the cup by the heater outlets!
BTW Idle is still steady as she goes...keeping fingers crossed.

bobs5 · July 2001

Mine gets warm too.

zonk · July 2001

I turned on my lights, fog lights, and turned up the dash lights yesterday as I went home from work. Drive takes 15-20 minutes in the traffic. When I got home, I placed my fingers all around the thumbwheel, lights knob, and the dash areas around each. I could not feel any warmth at all. I have a '01 QC if that matters.

cpolewka · July 2001

We had purchased new a 1993 Dakota. After a few years we noticed the driver side carpet was like a puddle of water after driving in the rain. Could not find the leak any where! Now we purchased a 92' from my father and the same problem. He had it checked and they could not find where the water is coming in from. Has anyone had this problem? Any suggestions besides taking it back to the dealer again???
Please mail me for a quicken response. CarolynPolewka@att.net
Thanks for any help and/or advice!

dodgetrukn · July 2001

I sold my '91 to a friend, he found that water ran on some wires that go through the firewall.
He re-siliconed those feed-through areas and he stopped 1 nasty leak. I've had other trucks
where I had to resilicone around the windshield (1.49$ tube) because the
original windshield seals had shrunk a bit with old age and sun.Water seeped in there too.
My buddy also replaced the drivers door seal..and NO water came in from the top of the door anymore - 2nd area. He now has a dry floor on both sides of the vehicle. Spent a little time and effort to track down the problem areas though.

bookitty · July 2001

Bill, turning the dash lights to the highest point will not create as much heat as reducing the light via resistance. It is the resistance that causes the thumb wheel switch to feel warm. Similar to a dimmer switch used in the home. Sometimes home dimmer switches feel warm and actually hum.

Bookitty

zonk · July 2001

OK, I must have missed something. I thought folks were saying that with all the lights on and the cabin thumbwheel up all the way, then the light panel where the switches are located seemed hot to the touch. What am I missing?

bookitty · July 2001

Bill, perhaps it was me that missed something. I thought that the original post referred to the thumbwheel (exclusively) becoming warm. As I seldom use my fog lights, and don't bother to feel around the headlamp switch, I was not aware of a warming in that area. I was aware the the thumbwheel area gets warm because I am always lowering the intensity of the instrument panel. A trick I learned while flying planes in the Air Force. The glare reduces the ability to see out during night flying.

Bookitty

wmcdonal · July 2001

Hi everyone, can anyone tell me how to reset this warning light on my dash? The truck has right at 60k miles on it and the manual says to have the
emissions checked out on California vehicles. I live in Texas and i do very good maintenance, everything is working fine but i need to reset this light. I know it's just a timer thing and i know the dealership can reset it but i'd like to know how. Without removing the bulb!!!!!!!

Thanks for any help you can give me.

Later............................

dodgetrukn · July 2001

I had my thumbwheel set about 1/3 , as dash lights were low..and I agree with bookitty that having it not on full power (12-14v to the lights) that the potentiometer (variable resistor)dropped the rest of the voltage across the thumbwheel pot. Thats the purpose of the potentiometer, so that you can regulate the voltage to the lights to make them dim to bright..and it does get rid of power in the form of heat as a resistor does..
Just glad to hear everyone else has seen this issue,,as I was hoping my truck wasn't made with defective parts, just "considered normal" as everyone posted.
---bobs5--any pics on the bedrug and cap?,,I still havent done anything with my bed yet... Moving has placed a burden on my funds as Home Depot has been sucking me dry..
Later, Ger.

zonk · July 2001

Yeah, we have the same problem flying helicopters.

yank2 · July 2001

As many of you know I have been having a rear end whine since March of 2000. After many times to the Dealer and many bad words to the Dealer Rep. I have got some results. All I wanted is for the rear end whine to go away. I have had many new trucks and I really liked my 2000 Dakota. I just came back from a trip to Winston Salem NC.. and got 21 miles to the gallon. No whine at 70 plus but at 50 all the time. Well right now they are trying to find me a new truck with what I want on it. Only cost to me will difference of current vehicle. It has been a lot of work and a pain in the you know what but I hope my new Dakota will be as good as the last except for the rear end whine. Thanks for all your help.

bobs5 · July 2001

If you have the means to take pics and post em, I'll bring the truck by to do so. Besides, I have to see your new ride anyway.
Bob

stnick · July 2001

My thumwheel also gets warm ,and it is the heat dissipated by turning your dash lights lower, but it would be far worse if the headlight switch didn't have a heat sink at the rear of the switch. I noticed it when I changed the switch as part of the mopar fog light kit I installed last year. Don't worry its normal, Nick.

stnick · July 2001

Just curious Robert, did dealer ever change out the complete rear end, not just the gears? Nick

henne · July 2001

yes, they rebuilt it 5 times and replaced it once and the problem would get a little better then within a week or so it would be just as bad as ever.

they could not figure it out so they just replaced the whole truck.

robert

yank2 · July 2001

They changed a lot of parts but not the whole rear. all I wanted was a new whole rear but they are giving me a new truck it looks like it will be a 2002.

henne · July 2001

see, both of us answered your question, and now i see his name is robertt also so im assuming that my answer didnt matter hahaha

good luck yank2

robert

stnick · July 2001

Don't now if you caught my earlier posts on my trucks history on this subject, but I'll post again. Had whine at 50 to 55 mph from day one. My dealer wanted to give it some time before getting into it. At about 10k he ordered ring, pinion gears, but didn't leave them in because they wouldn't set up any better than the original set, so he promptly ordered a complete rear, housing and all, theorizing that one of the housing tubes was bent, either at manufacture, or damaged in transit. New one took care of problem. Now you guys got ME whining because they fixed my whine and you two got new trucks instead! Good luck with them. Nick

yank2 · July 2001

I tried to get what you got a new complete rear end but the female rep said no way. She said if I don't like the truck to sell it. So now I am getting a new one and I hope I like it as well as my 2000 less the whine.

henne · July 2001

glad my rep didnt give me any lip and just bought mine back and did a deal on another one.

i hope all turns out well with you guys.

robert

hairydog · August 2001

Just got through with four trips to the dealer to find the flooding problems. Happy to say so far no further leaks detected.

My Dak now hit nine thousand miles and a very noticeable pulsation occurred every time I feathered the brakes.

Dealer took my Dak for a spin and came back to tell me it hops and pulsates upon braking.

Dealer turned front and rear rotors and vibration
has ceased.

Is this a rarity or is it normal to have rotors fail at less than nine thousand miles?

mopar67 · August 2001

Dakota town hall.
See my other posts, I don't feel like typing anymore!
Good luck, I am still struggling to get this fixed on my rig.
2000 Club Cab, 4WD, 4.7 schitzo 45RFE and three sets of rotors two sets of drums and we're not done yet!

hairydog · August 2001

Mopar: I have a good friend who has serviced every vechicle imaginable over a fourty five year period. I asked him to look at my rotors and give his opinion. He said the metal on the rotors appeared to be constructed of the cheapest quality materials in existence. He also recommended going the route of after market rotors to avoid what appears to be inevitable problems. Classic case is your continuous problems.

I have also asked my Dodge folks what can I expect to fail in the coming years. One is the Tranny and Air Conditioning. As for the Tranny they seriously recommend servicing at 25,000 miles and a good extended warranty to off set the costs potential A/C problems.

In the next two years you will be seeing D/C facing their greatest challenge. Financial crisis of the highest magnitude is in their future. Our mechanical problems will be their least concern.

I must admit the various post I have read at Edmunds Town Hall have been very helpful. Maybe not what I want to always hear but helpful.

Thanks for your time.

mopar67 · August 2001

You hit the nail right on the head. With DC financial situation, several critical vehicle launches upcoming, I aggree with you that quality control and procurement of high quality parts is probably way down on their list. See why NAFTA is a joke of the highest order?
BTW, our critical brake parts came to us courtesy of our neighbor to the south)
Glad to hear you found postings here helpful. I've learned a lot from reading posts (which is why I have nearly all bpeebles postings in print! And if you only read half of what he says, you'll know more than most of the technicans at the dealer!)
Almost everyone here can shed light on stuff. Its too bad Bob Lutz hooked up with GM. Well in GMs case, its probably a good thing. After all this was the guy who pushed the Ram, Viper, and the cab forward LH cars. I wish him well, he has his work cut out for him at GM. It would have been great to see him back at DC. God only knows they need someone like him right now.

drdakota · August 2001

I have a 2001 QC with Full Time AWD and have had no problems to date (6 months). Within the last week, I've noticed two things I question and hope they're not going to be problems.

The first is a rough transmission change at about 30-35 mph when I let off the gas.

The second is an odd "whirring" sound when I turn of the ignition. It is as if some metal disk is slowing down. It makes this sound for 2-3 seconds after the engine is turned off.

Any one have any experience or thoughts on these?

bja4 · August 2001

Over 10K on 2000 Dakota 4x4 Sport Plus. At at least half of these miles with 1300 pound Northstar camper on it. I rotate my own wheels after having some kid at Sears over tighten the lung-nuts with an air gun on my last Dakota. It's not much fun rotating wheels/tires, but aleast I won't be using a trucker's three foot cheater bar to brake lug-nuts off to change a flat.

I have the one-ton package and know some of the braking components are different(larger brakes, drums). Has anyone had brake problems with the one-ton package?

namfflow · August 2001

I have the 2000 lb payload and no problems. The difference in the brakes is that the rear drums are 11 X 2 instead of the 9 X2.5. Thats the reason I got that package, bigger brakes.

rickg3 · August 2001

I own a 1992 Dakota with a 3.9 magnum v6 in it and I am now having problems with it cutting out when I am driving down the road. The only thing that I have noticed about the problem is that the maintenance required light on the dash will go out that has been on for the last 2 years. When this happens, the starter will turn the engine but it will not start until the maintenance light comes back on. Sometimes it will start right up when it dies driving down the road and other times it will not start for long periods of time. It has stranded me for up to an hour. I have been told that it could be a relay problem but after swapping all of the relays in the relay box around, it still does it whenever it feels like it. Anyone else had that type of problem? If anyone knows the magic fix for this I would like to know it too.

dodgetrukn · August 2001

Wondering if anyone actually tried to deflect the a/c condensation dripaway frm the exhaust
pipe..I looked to see if there was any way to attach some hose on a fitting, but it looks like a
drip pan type. Anyone rig or know a "purchased" kit.?? to allow the water to NOT drip on the
exhaust.??
Bobs5, going in for my 3750 mile checkup,,actually have ~ 4100 miles. Gonna see if they
fix my drivers side door weatherstripping (poor installation), cracked drivers side headlight lense
from day one (didn't see it till I got home from dealer), and swap in synthetic and friction modifier
for my 3.92-lsd rear. Appt on the 29th of aug.
Ger.

Dodge Dakota Problems. Please help!

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