Dodge Dakota Problems. Please help!

fvracer · November 2001

I realize that this is the problem board, but given the ongoing discussion, I have to report that I have not had a single problem with my Dakota, no squeaks, pops or whines. It is a 2001 Quad 2wd with all options except leather. Mine is a 360/auto with 12K miles, about half of which were put on pulling my 20ft enclosed racecar trailer. I chose the 360(5.9) because of the torque curve and haven't had any regrets. The 4.7 may get better mileage, but then I don't have a funky transmission and can pull uphill at 70mph. My brakes work fine, the axle isn't offset, the truck sits even all around. Maybe I'm just lucky, but more probably, most people don't have any problems and therefore we never hear from them.

This may be off on a tangent, but I get a new company car every two years and put about 80K miles on them in that time. These have ranged from Taurus's(?) to Lumina's to my current Impala. Over the last fifteen years I've had eight new American cars. I have had only one car of those eight that had to go to the shop for anything other than very minor problems. One of the Ford's split a heater hose and I had to limp into the dealer for emergency repairs. I think we build pretty good cars and have never felt the need to buy a Japanese car to get a "quality" automobile. I have to confess my wife drives a Volvo (her choice, not mine) but, Hey, they're owned by Ford.

danodw · November 2001

For those who read my post on all the trouble I have had with my Q/C. They kept my
truck for 4 days. I went to pick it up and had a little test drive before I signed anything.
Brakes still pull to right and sometimes to left. Let go of steering wheel and it pulled to the
right, just like from the day I bought it. The shop said they replaced my brake pads on
both sides, turned both rotors and replaced the right caliper. Said thats all Dodge would
let them do for now. After test drive I had them ride with me and then I let them drive it
with me there, even though they had already driven it after being fixed and said it was all
right. Anyway they agreed that something was still wrong. Kept it two more days and I
went to pick it up, said they forgot to bleed the brake lines and the front-end was re-
aligned. Now this truck drives like a dream. No more pulling and the brakes work but they
feel a little soft and sometimes it pulls very little to the left but, I don't have to fight the
steering wheel anymore to keep it on the road. The noise I was hearing in front-end is
gone. They didn't check the power window, which is leaving scratches on the glass nor did
they check the rough ideal. I called dodge and reported this again. I still think this truck
has a quality problem. I have been on this since day one and have called dodge many times
about this dealer who is a five star. I don't know why they will not do anything about
them. They do turn a lot of cares and trucks so maybe thats all Dodge cares about. It does
drive much better now, but they didn't even do all the work and how long will it last. They
think now that it does drive better then everything is all right. No so!. It took 8 to 9
months to get this much work done. Good things I can say about this truck is, more room
than most, looks good, now drives better and it does have plenty of power. If I ever buy
another dodge it will be used. That way I can replace all the junk factory parts that are not
holding up and save money Vs buying a new one and replacing the junk parts. I do wish
they would have replaced the rotors instead of turning them. I asked them to call me
before replacing anything. After reading this form I would have bought better rotors since
they were doing the work. when I told them that, they said it would void the warranty
putting after market rotors on the truck because of quality reasons. Can you believe that. I
took it to them for quality reasons on the parts from factory. Most of my problems was
with the dealer but when I called Dodge they didn't do anything to them. They should take
the five star away. Never in all my years had I ever had this much problem with a dealer
and manufacture. Its cheaper to fix all this stuff myself than it is to lose on a trade in. Its
the fact that it is a new truck. I'm well done. So all that is left now is to keep in touch with
this form and maybe offer and get help to keep my truck going. Thanks for letting me
vent.

jjhman · November 2001

Dodge only rates the R/T for 2000 lbs towing. Why? I'd like to get an R/T to tow my race car but am nervous about the weight. My race car only weighs 2100 lbs but I think some day I will get a trailer (I flat tow it now). The standard Dakota is rated up to 5000 lbs. What's the story here???

jimt · November 2001

My 01 dakota quad (4x4,4.7,auto,3.92lsd,tire/handling pkg,HD service group) developed scratching, light grinding noise in steering wheel/column. From previous experience suspected clock spring. Dealer agreed and replaced clock spring. This one makes more noise than one they replaced. Anyone else having this problem? Otherwise, truck has been excellent with 21,000 miles.

bpeebles · November 2001

( jjhman ) To answer your single question of "why does the R/T have very low towing specs.?"

The R/T has been "de-trucked" to make it more sporty. This includes suspension modifications that reduce the towing capacity greatly.

If you want to tow... get a non-R/T Dakota with the 4.7L V8 hemi... it is said to be better than the ol' 1960's based 360 cubic-inch gas-guzzler in many respects. (ie... the 1/4 mile time is better than the R/T) With the $$ you save on not getting the R/T... you could add some "goodies" to it and make it even BETTER.

jjhman · November 2001

Thanks to bpeebles for the response to my question about towing, but what does "de-trucked" mean. The kind of answer I'm looking for is one that will tell me how to increase the capacity. I'm interested in the R/T because I want the older engine and transmission design and because I like the lowered chassis and 17" wheels. What do I have to do to an R/T to be able to tow 3500 lbs? I've asked Dodge and they say the same thing tha bpeebles did:"buy a 4.7. I want an R/T that tows 3500 lbs. Does anybody have any real data?

namfflow · November 2001

You caan buy a Quad Cab with the 5.9 and have the towing capacity. It is not an R/T but if the engine is what you are looking for this is your best option.

In order to increase the towing on an R/T you would need to raise the vehicle to stock height (get rrid of that lowered stance) out stiffer springs on and so on. You stilll wouldn't know for sure what the towing capacity would be and any legit shop will not put a hitch on that would exceed the published tow factors for a particul;ar model.

Again, go for a Quad Cab with the 5.9.

iowabigguy · November 2001

Aside from the fact that Dodge says the Dakota RT can't tow I don't see why it couldn't safely tow 3500 (anything over 2000 requires trailer brakes).
RT vs Quad with 5.9
engine, same (less HP on Quad)
differential, same
transmission, same
brakes, same
suspension, lowered on RT, less capability or de-arched springs?
frame, basically same except for length.
I've personally seen a Dakota RT extended cab pulling a car trailer with a Hemi Roadrunner on the trailer. Looks like that might have been over 3500 lbs. Main problem I see is liability. If you did pull a trailer with an RT and were involved in an accident a good lawyer would make you the bad guy even if you were not a fault. Rick

quaddub · November 2001

After a long drive on a desert highway, turned off and heard loud power steering growl. Fluid in resevoir was nearly gone. Checked for leaks and added fluid. Now, about a month later I see rack and pinion boots are saturated with oil and mangled.
I've not seen many posts concerning this issue. Anyone had to have this type of work done?
What could be going on? -- Thanks

bobs5 · November 2001

This is the first problem like this that I have heard of.
Time to visit the service department, as this should be covered by warranty.
Good luck,
Bob

quaddub · November 2001

Took it in to service department today, and they will be replacing the entire gear assembly. Hard to say what caused the breakdown.

bpeebles · November 2001

(quaddub) Thanks for the info... I have been "following" many various dakota websites and there have been NO REPORTS of problems with the new rack-n-pionion system.

(I am assuming that you have the brand-new design front end for the 4X4 Dakota.)

dskoczylas · December 2001

I had the same problem with my 2001 Grand Caravan. Dealer replaced the rack. So far my 2001 Quad has been OK.

rirvin · December 2001

Have a 2001 Dakota Quad-4.7-automatic w. 26k miles. With heater set to direct air to floor, I appear to get excessive air out the upper closed vents. Seems excessive to me, anyway. Solutions?

Periodically, (about 6 times in the last 15 months) the emergency brake light and ABS light stay on at start up. Emmergency brake is not engaged. At the succeeding engine start up, lights go off and and will work fine for 2-3 months. Then crops up again. Had it in to the dealer once and couldn't find anything with their electronic check, but of course the lights hadn't stayed on for the dealer appointment. Naturally, their only recourse was have me bring it in when the lights stay on but my schedule isn't that flexible when the lights stay on. Anyone else?

bpeebles · December 2001

That is normal for the heater vents to also blow some air when in the "heat" setting. Otherwise, all of the glass would fog up quickly as the moisture re-condenses on it.

danodw · December 2001

Some may remember the trouble I had and all the venting I did at this site. What after about 3 weeks, I am having the same problem. My brakes are agian messing up. They stick and pull one way or the other when I use the brakes. My rear end is making a noise and or my trans. Windows still leaving marks on the glass when rolling up and down. All kinds of little noises.
Does anyone else have a problem with the windshield wipers on the passenger side.
I've replaced the blade 3 times and it still sometimes skips and and kinda jumps across the glass. It makes a bad noise where the blade rubs on the glass. Also the blade on that side does not touch the glass at the very end and I think that is what causes the blade to skip because it is not fliping back and forth when going up and down until about have way up. Why did they put a wiper blade on the truck that will not form to the windsheild. I'll keep this truck for a couple of years but its going to be a high maintance truck. All you that like it, wait until it gets about 40,000 and up. I still think its the best looking 4 door around in a small truck and the power is good, don't like the rough ideal and sometimes dies on gold take offs. It will be a year in March that I have had this truck and problems. Never agian will I buy a Dodge and not just because of the problems but because dodge has not been much help and the help they did try to give me, well it took forever to get that and it only lasted 3 weeks. I don't see how people support them, I guess they really aren't supporting them execpt for a few fools like us. They are aveing problems and many layoffs. Yes I no I can't spell. Someone please let me know about brakes, and wiper problems.

ahasher · December 2001

well I'm at 41,000 in my 2000 SLT QC, No real brake problems other than a chirp that seems to like me, because i cant make it stay away... No rattles or noises inside even tho the New Orleans streets try their darndest to shake me up.
Anyway since you asked for input..Ill respond to the wiper thing because I too had a very similar problem recently. I thought my blades were worn out (set # 2) so I replaced the blade only. What I found might help you. Since I apparently never really looked close at the wiper arm I never noticed this: The fingers holding the blade were kinds stuck on one arm.. effectively binding the blade. Looks like this kept it from moving a little to fit against the glass properly. When I spread the fingers slightly, the blade was able to slide slightly, and the arm could flex again; since it has the 3 (If I recall) sections as they should. I used the SAME blade again and it worked like new. Kept the new set for later.
My .02 worth..
Good Luck..

fourgivn1 · December 2001

Question for anyone who can answer...I just purchased the Dakota of the type listed in the title of this message. My question is this....comments on the abominable gas mileage aside (and if it does get that bad I will probably buy a K&N filter package), can anyone give me a somewhat unbiased perspective on the V6? I'd prefer not to get a chorus of replies that basically say "Yeah....why didn't you get a V8?" I'm interested more in the power aspect of it, how it responds to towing a trailer, that sort of thing.

ragemage76 · December 2001

Hopefully someone can help a little. I have a '97 dakota with the 3.9 V6. It started stalling at lights and stop signs not even a week ago.It keept stalling and now will not start at all. New battery, cap, and rotor. Fuel pressure is fine, it's getting spark, no trouble codes displayed besides 12 which is battery has been disconnected. Shift indicator light now flashes when trying to start it. Manual tranny. My guess is the wiring harness. Has anyone ever heard of anything like this happening? I thought it might have been water in the gas, but that isn't the problem either. I'm out of ideas and would greatly appreciate anyone's help on this.

dustyk · December 2001

The symptoms you describe are classic timing chain failure. How many miles are on this vehicle?

Dusty

bobs5 · December 2001

My guess it is a bad sensor of some kind, would not guess it is a bad wiring harness. I am not sure about your model year and engine, but perhaps a crankshaft sensor.

When you stated "no trouble codes", how was this determined? Did you use the ignition switch sequence on-off-on-off-on?

"Fuel pressure is fine"...How was this determined? Were the spark plugs getting wet with gasoline?

Wish I had a solution for your problem, but this one is beyond my knowledge.

Here is a website which you could post your problem, and maybe someone there may have an answer for you:

http://www.allpar.com/cgi-bin/tech.pl

Good luck,

Bob

ragemage76 · December 2001

You were absolutely right on the crankshaft position sensor. Thanks a million.

bobs5 · December 2001

Melissa,
Great news. Hope your truck is back in working order.
Did you have to take the truck to a service center for repair?
Bad sensors can be difficult to track down.
Happy holidays,
Bob

kojak3 · December 2001

Well, the "five star dealer" told me today there was nothing he nor Dodge was going to do to fix my squeaking brakes. Although most people are having trouble with the front pads, I'm having trouble with the rear shoes. As yet, I can't find anyone who makes the Raybestos or Ceramix for the rear shoes. They only hvae front pads.

Anywho, the 5 star idiot hung up the phone on me because I wasn't cutting him any slack. Bottom line--I'll never buy another Dodge. I'm looking at trading my 2001 QC in already because none of the dealers seem to want to honor any warranties. Yes, I'll be buying foreign.

My 92 dakota had to have the rotors replaced about every 20-25k with a set of pads in between. I figured, hey a new truck and problems gone--NOT!

Too bad I didn't see more people complaining about the brakes before I bought the truck. Fred Sanford's truck lives on!!

mopar67 · December 2001

and don't throw out the baby with the bathwater.
THere is a solution.
What you need to do (myself included when the time comes) is to move away from the OEM garbage stuff and into quality slotted rotors or raybestos or bendix brand rotors.
I have probably had more brake nonsense than others here & I have learned that there is no substitute for quality or good design. Unfortunately, the Dak has neither when it comes to brakes.
What noise are you referring to? A squeak can be from the dust collected between the shoe and the drum. Do you park outside? If so, the bare metal on the rotor and drum WILL rust. Make the first brake application and you surely will hear noise. I do. After the first brake application, no more noise.
Unless the truck is being a real pain, don't be too hasty. SImply get better parts on the brake end and all should be good.
Its too bad DC could not put the $$$ into a good brake design to start with. Then you and I would not be having this trade of posts.

kojak3 · December 2001

mopar67,

Its a track record with the brakes. My 92 Dakota went through front rotors like water. I had about 150k on it when I traded it in. Went through a set of rotors about every 20-25k and pads in between that. I would have kept that truck but when baby came along, it didn't fit my needs anymore. When I traded it in, I figured I'd seen the last of brake problems--boy was I wrong.

The truck is garaged every night. I pulled off the rear drums yesterday and not much brake dust came out. I squirted CRC brake cleaner on them to clean them up. Today, it seemed to have worked. We'll see. The problem is that when I step on the brakes, people literally turn their heads to see what is going on. One guy at a stop light told me my brakes were worn down bad and needed new ones--bless his heart for trying. How bad was the noise?? He had to roll down his window to tell me his wisdom. eg, his window was up when he heard me coming.

I'm like everyone else--aggravated that I pay over 20k for a new vehicle and it has problems. They need to quit hiring these engineers that graduated college with a 2.1 [non-permissible content removed] gpa. Some problems you kind of expect, like Joe Sixpack forgetting to put a light bulb in during assembly or crossing a wire somehow.

I can't find anyone who sells the rear shoes yet with either ceramix or raybestos. I'm either not looking correctly or they aren't out in shoes yet. I may just have to go with a set of regular Bendix and see what happens.

albion00 · January 2002

Mind too came on & off (when service had it)finally found the problem to be the abs sensor, replaced it, fine now.
Also the same problem with the wiper blades(minds on the drivers side)replaced blades 3 times now and still doing it.

Am taking it in for service in a couple of days for the steering, seems really tight,anybody else have that problem?

Have 2001 sport qc, 4.7 auto.
HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYBODY!!!!!!!!!!

dakmaybe · January 2002

have been thinking of buying a 02 Dakota with the V6 engine. When I drive it, the transmission feels sluggish and unresponsive. Just not as smooth as I am used to. Any thoughts on the tranny in the dakota? I know the V6 3.9 gets a bad review here but my question is the transmission. Excuse my limited knowledge in this area. thanks

dakmaybe · January 2002

I love the exterior, interior and handling of the dakota but the feel of the tranny gives me the willies. It's not the power, it's the smoothness of the gears. I know it has something to do with the transmission trying to find the right gear for the speed but I dont know much else...need some feed back. If I got one, I would go with the V8...is it the same tranny?

surffla1 · January 2002

dakmaybe,
All I can tell you is this: I test drove the manual V-6 only for the purpose of feeling the ergonomics of the shifter with the bench seat set up (which is great by the way, don't waste money on the dak. high back buckets, they are worthless option). The V-6 manual has no comparison to the V-8 manual. You won't even save that much on gas mileage if at all! Plus you don't see any complaints on this board from people having problems with the manual tranny's. Lots of problems with the auto's though. Go with the V-8 manual, the 6 week wait for your special order is more than worth it.

iowabigguy · January 2002

To answer surflla1s question. I don't believe the transmissions are the same. I'll qualify the answer though. I looked in the shop manual for a 2000 Dakota. The v6 manual trans is a lighter duty model than the one behind the v8. Don't have a 2002 shop manual. Rick

dakmaybe · January 2002

thanks for the input on the auto tranny. I'd like to hear what others have to say about the V6 3.9 auto transmission. It is NOT responsive at all and seems to be geared wrong for dakota. If it wasn't for the poor tranny, I might take my chances with the crappy brake rotors. But not both complaints. I want an automatic...any ideas on V6 vs. V8. I know the MPG will be about the same so it makes sense to go with the V8. What about the quality of the tranny though. Silly me,I like a smooth shiftin truck...who doesn't?

bpeebles · January 2002

Lets see.... you want SMOOTH and TRUCK in ONE vehicle? That seems to be a tall order. ;-)

The tranny on the ol 3.9L v6 has been around for decades in one form or another. (since the 1960s)
If well maintained, and NEVER used for towing in overdrive, it should be pretty reliable.

But asking for SMOOTH from a 30 year old engine/tranny combonation is really asking a lot.

I know you are not interested...but;
The 4.7L V8 hemi is also available with a BRAND NEW DESIGN automatic tranny. It is supposed to be real SMOOTH when it is working properly.... Longevety of it is not known since it has only been around for less than 5 years. (Debuted in 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee)

I have the MANUAL tranny and it is a blast to drive! Very smooth-engauging clutch and flawless shifting in the coldes of weather.

mopar67 · January 2002

Listen to bpeebles. ANd stay away from the 45RFE unless you like to spend $$$$ getting the fluid changed every 30K.

dakmaybe · January 2002

Hey guys, I'm gettin the vibe that the dakota auto tranny sucks.....what the hell am I supposed to do if I want an automatic? Go to toyota? I like the dodge styling, fit & trim but can't get along with the V6 automatic. How do you recommend the auto V8? I've been shifting for 13 years with a manual accord. My foot needs a break....come on....load up the advice....I am Dak Maybe....

bpeebles · January 2002

Have you driven several Daks with automatics?

I find it hard to beleive that the automatic on the 3.9L so harsh that you disagree with it.

Perhaps you have been driving a manual for so many years that your foot is smoother than an automatic slushbox.

Personally, I have NEVER driven an automatic that is perfectly smooth under all conditions.(but a CVT comes close because it has no "gears".)

CVT= Continuously Variable Transmission

dakmaybe · January 2002

Thanx for the replies. Been awhile since I owned a truck....78 chev C10 (three on the tree.) Have driven more than enough auto ford crown vics up & down the highway with a radar on the dash lookin for daks etc. Could be just me...I did read consumer reports write up on Daks with unresponsive tranny and then on several test drives, I felt the same thing. I just dont know if it's normal or not with a truck tranny. I will have to drive the V8 again to compare. The whole thing is, when I depress the accellerator, there is a pause or delay in gear response - well, seems that way to me anyway. but thanx anyway for response. happy new year to you and all here. good bunch of people in here!

surffla1 · January 2002

dakmaybe,
Perhaps if I qualify my response some I can be of some further help. First, when I test drove the V-6 manual it was the quad cab. Second, I have not driven the V-6 Auto. That said, I can tell you that even when driving the V-6 manual I had the opportunity to "open her up" on the highway. Even when I downshifted from 5th to 3rd to simulate a passing situation, I had to really mash down on the accelerator to bring it up to barely adequate passing speed. Over all the V-6 in the quad felt woefully inadequate. If it was the highest rated engine available for the dakota quad I would never have even considered buying it. How all that stands up in a standard cab or extended cab I can not say. But my 2 cents says your test drive should say it all. If your mindset is to buy now and you want a 6 cyl. automatic, I would recommend either the Ford Ranger w/the 4.0 V-6 (my father-in-law has that engine in a 4 door Explorer and I have driven it: more than adequate power)) or the Toyota Tacoma. There has been some talk in these forums that a more powerful V-6 may soon be available in the Dakota. Others can probably give you more info. on that point. In closing I did test drive the dak. V-8 Auto and felt it was quite "smooth". While as I said there have been those on this forum who have had some problems with the V-8 Auto, I think they are a minority. Most of the V-8 Auto owners who's posts I have read have been very happy. Good luck and let us know what you decide.

danodw · January 2002

I have to agree, Dodge is junk. Those who remember my last post on all the trouble I was having with windows, brakes, rearend, trans. etc. It took 8 months to get something done and it was a half [non-permissible content removed] job. The brakes they said were fixed are now bad agian. I've only put 3K on the truck since the fix. Safty is very much a concern. Besides the motor and trans, the brakes are the most important thing on a auto. Why would they cheat on the quality or workmenship on the brakes. Now I have to start all over on trying to get it fixed. I am very sick of Dodge and I don't care much for this site. Not because of the people here but because of the reviews that I read by Edmunds and they still don't say anything about all the brake problems people are having on these trucks. I think they get paid by the car dealers to give thes reviews are they jusk don't care are no what they are doing. With all the brake problems, does anyone know how to go about getting a recall on this stuff. Who do you report this to. How do you get a recall. I think its in order. Good looking truck, good power in the V8, very very bad workmanship and quality. Dodge needs to take care of this. By the way they still have the nerve to send forms for me to get the extended warranty. They can't even fix it under the warranty that came with the truck. And for those who have had no problems, you are very lucky. I'm sure they can't get them all wrong but I would say more bad than good. Dodge sucks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

danodw · January 2002

Yes I know I can't spell good but that does not fix problems.

kwanderi · January 2002

Just to add my $.02, I have a 2K Dakota 4.7L auto and have not any trouble in the 32K miles driven so far. This combo is so super smooth that one can hardly feel the shift happening.

Others may not like the auto, but I would have nothing else.

Keith

mailman54 · January 2002

dakmaybe: I think you will like the 45RFE on the 4.7 V8. It is much better than the previous auto they had on the 5.2 V8. I experienced a slight hesitation at WOT (wide open throttle) during the first few miles, but now that the computer has learned my driving style it seems to have smoothed out. Personally I have always preferred sticks in the past, but I am in love with this new auto. I drove the V6 auto several years ago (don't believe they have changed it) and it seemed sluggish to me also, but it may have just been a lack of power in the 3.9 engine.

bcarter3 · January 2002

4.7, auto, CC, 2001, 8000+ miles. No engine or transmission problems except for sensor leak when new. Will buy again except will add two more doors!!

gregp5 · January 2002

Yeah, I'll second that, or is it third ?
Anyway I only have 2K miles on my QC, but the 4.7 and the 45RFE combo have been nothing but smooth for me also. When it comes to maintenance on the trans, I'll just look at it as the cost of doing buisness.
I have also driven sticks for about 15 years combined (2 VW's a Datsun and a Fiat) and I'm tired of shifting in the heavy N.J. traffic.

zonk · January 2002

I have to add my approval of the auto tranny I have in my 01, 4.7L, 2wd QC. I have about 8600 miles on it. It has always shifted smoothly, not a single complaint about the engine or transmission. Having lived and commuted in the Washington DC area to the Pentagon when I was in the Army, I, too, did not want the hassle of a manual shift.

whiatt · January 2002

Well, my electrical problem came back today. Here is a detail symptom list:

1) Radio stays on with key out
2) Courtesy lights do not function when doors open
3) Lights on A/C control on when headlights are off, off when headlights are on
4) Cigarete/power adapter not functional when headlights are turned on, when turned off, they are functional. Eventually they stop working
5) Power door locks click at CTM, but no lock/unlock (Even with transmitter)
6) When you turn the key in between the Start and Off position, you can hear the blower motor make a whining type sound.

Anyways... Any ideas guys?

Thanks
william

dodgetrukn · January 2002

Electrical - Multiple Systems Inoperative

NO: 08-10-98
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: Mar. 13, 1998

SUBJECT:
G202 Ground Diagnosis

MODELS:
1997-1998 (AN) Dakota
1998 (DN) Durango
Electrical - Multiple Systems Inoperative
DISCUSSION:

Inspect the G202 ground connection when multiple electrical complaints are encountered, such as the following:

Blower Motor Inoperative
Power Door Locks Inoperative
Dome Light Inoperative
Chime Inoperative
Keyless Entry Inoperative
Cigar Lighter Inoperative
Power Outlet Inoperative
Console Lights Inoperative
Radio Inoperative
Overhead Console Inoperative
Instrument Cluster Gauges Inoperative

The G202 ground connection uses the same bolt that secures the right and left lower instrument panel to the side cowl panel (Figure 1). After verifying that the mating surfaces of the
ground connections are good, re-torque both right and left lower instrument panel bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
Good Luck,Ger

danodw · January 2002

You need to let your dealer and Dodge know about this problem you are having.
With all the problems I am having and can't get them to fix it right, I wish they would take the pice of crap back. I'm 44 years young and have owned many cars and trucks. Never had this much trouble. I do like the looks and power but the rest sucks. If only Dodge would address these problems and come up with a fix. Of course I have owned mostly Nissans And toyota and not once have I had a problem. Take that back, I had a cracked spark plug at 60K and the trans sensor had to be replaced on one. That was done the first time I took it in and didn't cost a thing. Guessing I have about 1,000,000 miles total on the nis and toy. Took about an hour to fix. Bottom line, get rid of it and stay away from Dodge even if you like the looks and power, its not worth the headaches. I would not complaine so much it I had paid 10k to 15K but I paid over 20k and I expect it to at least last 1 year or be fixed without a repeat with less than 3k on the fix.
What a joke.

danodw · January 2002

From day one I have had brake problems on my '01 Q/C. They fix and it does not last.

I have read over the past few months about others having the same problems. Yes they came up with a fix of aftermarket parts which seem to work. The problem is, I want do this myself after paying over 20K for the truck. Its un safe. I'm asking everyone that has are having brake are any other problems to report this to http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/oscripts/ivoq/voq/voq1.cfm are you may start at the home page at www.nhtsa.dot.gov Please do this if you are having problems. This is the way to get a recall and make Dodge address the problem. If nothing else is done it will at least be on record so it the brakes are whatever cause's someone to get hurt, you have something to stand on. Thanks and still mad at this junk truck. I really thank I got a lemon.

hairydog · January 2002

I responded months ago to the NHSTB about brakes in my 2001 DAK 4x4. Haven't heard a thing from them. I will try again! My rotors turned blue at 9k and 18k. DoDge refuses to address problem.

My neighbor had two serious mishaps with brakes on Grand Cherokee. Rotors shot at 8k. She wrote NHSTB. I read the response yesterday. The letter was an insult and typical of a government agency who are afraid to beat the drum. SHE UNLOADED VECHICLE AFTER PAYING $500 FOR BRAKES.
Dealer said it was normal wear and tear despite having low mileage.

Dodge Dakota Problems. Please help!

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