Chevy Tracker

scottybk · June 2005

Hi All

Wow! What a great Forum, I had no idea you were here, but I'm glad I found you. I have been looking through the 50+ pages trying to find some answers for a problem I'm having with my '97 Sidekick Sport 1.8L. It's a great rig in all regards but it has developed what I believe is called "spark knock". It is an automatic with 93,000 miles on it and less than 10,000 miles on a major tune-up. The problem has just cropped up and is very annoying. I feel that it does hinder its performance a bit and it is noisy. Has anyone else experienced this problem and if so were there any ways to fix it? I have tried running higher octane fuel (89) but that seems to make no difference. Any thoughts or ideas are great appreciated, thanks for your time

Scott

arkainzeye · June 2005

i was wondering if this would helpyou at all. in my tracker i have ran a product called SEAFOAM in my gas tank. and my tracker loves it. perks it up. 1 oz per gallon..

http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpConsumer.htm

cardor · July 2005

The dealer changed the fan and fan switch and also the o rings in the compressor also there's a in line fuse to the compressor that blows if freon gets too low protecting the compressor, and a couple of high pressure lines and added freon. The cost was $400.

harold3 · July 2005

I have a 2000 1.6 I replaced fuel pump did not help. I found it is the camshaft position sensor. It happens when air cond. is running engine is hotter then. Pour water on it to cool and it will start. Chevy can not get it (so the say). I just ordered one from RockAuto.com chevy part# 91175909 or ACDelco213933 $68. or Beck Arnley Part# 1800303 $44 Standard Part #PC226 #59. Has to be adjusted on 2.0 engine.

redbuggyboy · July 2005

"Intermittent problem" is a dirty combination of words to a mechanic. This problem of not starting has happened twice to my wife. Every time I arrive on the scene, the car magically starts. The first time I bought a $100 code retriever, $20 fuel filter, and the $20 air filter. I installed all the parts but did not use the code retriever just yet. Well the car worked fine for a couple of weeks and then right in the middle of the bank line the car started missing real bad and died, but would not start back up. Off to the fire I went and again as soon as I arrived my wife had it started up again running just fine. We swapped vehicles and I took it home and this time I opened my new toy (code retriever) and hooked it up. NO CODES!!!! I am panicking at this point not knowing what is wrong. I calmed down and went through a visual check and found nothing unhooked or out of place. I next did the "touchy-feely" test. While the engine was running I grabbed all the connectors one at a time and gave them a wiggle and a slight tug. Everything was great until I grabbed the camshaft position sensor and wiggled it and then the car died. I did this several times over to confirm what I had found. This connector is roughly 1/2 inch deep and shouldn't loose electical conductivity until it is removed at least a 1/4 inch. I pulled the sensor out and inspected it. I went immediately to the parts store and got a manual in hopes it would tell how to test the sensor but had no such luck. I also went ahead and picked up some dielectric grease. I cleaned out the connector and the sensor plug-in with compresed air. I tried to bend the female socket leads so they would fit tighter but they are too small to fit any tools down in. I put just a sliver of the grease on each male lead and then put it back together. After that I took two 4 inch black uv resistant zip ties and I locked the connector together as tight as the zip ties would go. So far we have not had any problems, but I am planning on replacing the $88 camshaft sensor for peace of mind. I saw another post where someone stated their mechanic diagnosed the camshaft sensor as the culprit. I currently am trying to locate a diagnostic procedure for that sensor as well as a possible Technical Service Bulletin for this problem. We bought ours brand new in 2000 and I love the car, but I can't have my wife and kids stranded in constant 98 degree weather in Southeast Texas. I hope this helps.

redbuggyboy · July 2005

What has to be adjusted on the 2.0? The sensor just pops in a hole with a bolt. From what I can see, as long as one doesn't move that adjustment housing the sensor fits in, then a simple swap should do. Right?

englishem · July 2005

I have a 2001 Tracker. For about a month now I have had to fight with it to get the key to turn all the way off so I can remove the key. I tried my other key and it does the same thing. Sometimes I even have to use a pair of pliers to turn it hard enough to get the key out. I finally took it to the Chevy dealer who said it needs a new ignition lock cylinder and will cost $593.11 to repair. I asked if I had any other options and he said the part can only be obtained through GM. Is this something that could be fixed at PepBoys or somewhere like that for less expense? I waited too late to call them tonight but I need to figure out what to do. Has anyone else had this same problem?
Thanks.

harold3 · July 2005

You are right. I went back and checked book on 2.0 it does not mention a adj. Also rockauto.com does not have ACDelco in stock I ordered a standard brand which is in stock. Any idea why this sensor will not trip check engine light.

redbuggyboy · July 2005

There was a recall or Tech Service Bulletin on this problem having to do with the defective cylinder. We have a 2000 model and it did this to us in our third year. Ours was still under warranty so it cost nothing, but in my opinion since this is a recognized manufacturer defect, the dealer should not charge you.

redbuggyboy · July 2005

Not sure on why it isn't tripping the light. How long have you had your new sensor in? GM will sell you one for the 2.0 at the tune of $240 but you have to buy the whole assembly(the part that you adjust) that bolts to the back of the head just to get the sensor. I just picked mine up today from Auto Zone for $88 and was expecting just the sensor, but it too was the whole adjustable assembly that had been remanufactured. I only pray that the sensor part is truly brand new as it looked a little scuffed. This is from Wells (manufacture of aftermarket parts). If the problem occurs again I guess we will take it back to Autozone(3 month warranty) and go ahead and buy the assembly from GM knowing it will be brand new(I hope).

harold3 · July 2005

Have not received new sensor yet. For the quick fix I carry a water bottle when it quits I douse it with water to cool (Camshaft Sensor). I checked rockauto.com. the 2.0 is not same as 1.6. The 2.0 comes with the adj. housing lists for $119 new one half Chevy' price . rockauto.com 2.0 Part # Standard PC432 searched under ignition. I also removed and cleaned all grounding points. Seems to helped, not sure yet Temp. has to be hot to act up

jimmi · July 2005

DRL "removal": Pull daylight sensor up out of dash (black round object on right side of dash near up to winshield. Prise it carefully with a flat (preferably non-metallic) blade. A wire harness is connected at the bottom. Disconnect this from the sensor. This disables the DRL. Light will operate "normally" with the switch on the stalk.

Mine needs somewhat bright sunlight to decide the sun is up.

Sorry I did not read about the ignition switch before - mine had same problem. However, a dollop of GRAPHITE (i.e. a dry lubricant), seems to have made it useable.

loadoffun · July 2005

I have purchased a 1999 Tracker, so far I just love the little thing... When we bought it did not come with factory A/C. It has 1.6L 5 speed manual transmissiion.

I would like to look that possiblility to adding A/C to it. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appericated...

Thanks,

ntimp · July 2005

One more goofy problem..the plastic piece that holds the front soft top onto the car broke apart where it snaps onto the roof screws..anyone know where I can get one..dealer only or aftermarket somewhere..but don't know part no. or if it's even available..thanks

cardor · July 2005

I see them for sale on ebay once in a while. Type in 'chevrolet tracker' or 'chevy tracker' .Usually not to expensive.

martinka74 · July 2005

Hi there. I have a 03 Tracker 4x4. I bought it brand new but after I had it for about 2 months something started making a squeeking or grinding noise {sounds like a belt but it is not a belt}. The noice is there sort of in cycles. The noise is sort of more intense when the a/c or heater are on. When I turn the a/c off, the noice is still there but in longer cycles if you know what I mean. I also found out that the noice stops when I change the gear from D to P. I am not a mechanic so I dont even know how to describe it properly. I took the car to 3 or 4 Chevy shops but the mechanics did not hear anything. Of course - there is still a warranty on the car. Would anyone be able to let me know what it is {if you have experienced anything like that before} so that I can just go to the shop and tell them what to check? It would be a great help as I hate to drive a car that is squeeking and I paid quite a bit of money for that.
Thank you

poorcruzer · July 2005

Hi! First time being here so bare with me please. Truck has 10,000 kms and is stored in the winter due to salt. When engaging 4wd the dash light "4WD" blinks once every two seconds. I drove straight down the road with 4wd engaged, light kept blinking. Pulled over on a steep hill onto gravel and engaged 4wd acelerated medium hard, front axle was engaged as I detected no wheelspin. I have the GM shop manuals and have found no explaintion for blinking light in shop or owners manual. Thanks,

okrafeet · July 2005

Well, I wish I had known you when I had that problem since I live in SW Louisiana RedBuggyBoy. The problem turned out to be the Cam Shaft Position sensor but the only one of four mechanics who could find it was the actual Chevy dealer. I didn't want to have to bring it there. Cost a total of $695.00.
Mine is a 2000 as well though I bought it used with only 12,000 miles. The problem didn't start happening for a year and a half. And as you said, no one can afford to be stranded in hot weather which is all we have here most of the year.

rem05 · July 2005

fan motor is bad

jwc1 · July 2005

I have now replaced three distributors. First one that was ordered the mechanic said it was no good and reorder. The next one lasted for 700 miles. The third one lasted for one startup. Our mechanic tells us we are just getting bad rebuilt distributors. Is this the case or could there be another problem? It is a 4cylinder automatic. If it is the distributors, where can you buy one that will last?

luvmyintrigue · July 2005

redbuggyboy, where is the sensor that you douse with water to cool? My car is doing the exact same thing, but I don't know where the sensor is. I hope this is an easy question to answer. Thanks in advance for any replies!

poorcruzer · July 2005

Hi. I am certain this has been tried but you never know. When modern a/c systems run low on charge the computer will lock down the compressor until the charge has been replaced and the circuit breaker reset, often found in the engine compartment. Good luck poorcruiser

harold3 · July 2005

On my 1.6 2000 it is located on top of engine left side behind valve cover. It has one black ground wire on top and a plug connector. It is connected with 1 10mm bolt no adjustments. On the 2.0 it is on the right side and in some type of housing , which might need a adjustment to replace Recommend you get a motor manual if it is a 2.0 engine, a 1.6 is a 2 minute simple job to change. Check out rockauto.com much cheaper and faster.

oldtimer_crs · July 2005

I removed the drive belt from my 01 Tracker, 4-cyl w/AC to replace it. Guess what? There isnt a sticker to show its routing, and the Haynes manual I have isnt worth the paper its written on. Can someone please give me a diagram of the routing of this belt, I keep coming up with the appearance that the belt is too long and its the exact match to what came off. :confuse: and :sick:

rocketfootball · July 2005

I want to get some bigger tires and wheels for my 99 tracker conv. How big of a wheel and tire can i got before i start having problems with them. If anyone knows where i can get good looking off-road rims for bout 500-600 plz tell me, I am planning on putting BFG All-terrain T/A's on it and i am on a budget thanks

arkainzeye · August 2005

on my 1999 2 door tracker i have 215/70/15 tires on my tracker. i read somewhere about someone installing 235/70/15 but it rubbed when he made turns..

prflyer32 · August 2005

Hi, new to the discussion, wondering if you've had any problems in regards to adjusting the sensor, or if you've even had to adjust it at all. If so, any info on how to do the adjustment? I've just started having the same problems, unfortunately, I've already ordered a new fuel pump and filter. Being stationed in Sicily is a drag with respect to dealing with mechanics. Now that I've read this discussion, I'm pretty sure it's going to turn out to be the sensor. However, before I buy one, I was hoping for some amplifying info. Anything you can tell me would be a huge help. Thanks

rem05 · August 2005

On my 1.6 liter 99 model Tracker, you do not have to adjust. Not sure about the 2.0 liters. It took about 10 minutes to replace. Have not had the problem since.

RM

leidei · August 2005

:sick: Help Please!!! I took my 2000 Tracker to the dealership for a tune up. They are telling me that I need new spark plugs, PCV valve, Front and Rear U joints, differential flush, fuel filter, and cooling flush. I live in Cleveland and am having trouble finding a manual for my car. Realistically how much of this can I do myself? The dealership wants $990.00 plus labor.

arkainzeye · August 2005

how many miles do youhave on your tracker. i have a 1999 tracker 4x4 and i never needed my u-jointed replaced. ihave 75000 miles and i have done heavy offroading. everything else other than the ujoints are very easy to do on a tracker. the raditor flush is very easy! the front and rear diff;s are even easy. the fuel filter is right next to the tank if you look under ur tracker. i just changed mine for the 3rd time a few months back. when i first purchased my tracker (used) i did a trany,engine, front and rear diff and transfer case fuild change. all of what i listed was easy. man you can get away with doing everything that you listed Minus the u-joints for around $100 depending on the oil you use. i used amsoil so that costs alot more. If you arent needed ujoints then your garage is taking advantage of you BIG TIME....

poorcruzer · August 2005

Arkainzeye is right on the mark. Go AMSOIL Synthetic 80w-90 GL-5, 1 litre for the front pumpkin, 2.3 litres for the rear. 75w-90 GL-5 for the transfer case which will take 1.7 litres. For the American conversion 3.78 litres equals 1 U.S. gallon. Be careful when doing your sparkplugs, make sure they are threaded in correctly and not crossthreaded before you lay a wrench to tighten them. Use a good anti seize on the threads which will make it easier to take them out next time. It is a pity that Suzuki/Chev doesn't install grease fittings anywhere on the suspension or U-joints from the factory. The Toyota landcruisers all had fittings everywhere. If your U-joints have to be replaced, get grease fittings attached. The shop manual for that truck is still available from Helms Inc for 135.00 U.S. The manual is two books 11 by 14 by 6 inches thick and is year specific to your vehicle, all the info to take your truck apart and put it back together is in this manual. Don't buy the Han"""" manual.

arkainzeye · August 2005

make sure the transfer case is NOT GL-4, if it is, you do Not want to put a GL-5 inside. it could damage any brass that may be inside... i remember one of the oil i ordered for my tracker i had to be careful with. i mean make sure i order the right kind. and i believe this was the transfer case.

poorcruzer · August 2005

Sorry if I forgot to ask which powertrain you had in your rig. I have the V6 which takes GL-5 in the transfer case. Go to an Amsoil website and they have an application guide for your vehicle. Thanks for catching it Arkainzeye. I wonder if anybody has put grease fittings in their truck, most mechanics these days don't wont to bother putting them in. My flashing 4WD light turned out to be a PCM shorted out. Waited a week for the part only to find out when install it showed a code for the actuator pump had shorted out the cuicuit. Have to wait another week for that part. I can't wait for the truck to be out of warranty so I can take it to Suzuki.

arkainzeye · August 2005

i seen where you said your pcm shorted out. what is a pcm and what does it do. I was also just wondering. what caused it to short out?

http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/arkainzeye

johnb647 · August 2005

I'm looking for the plastic clips that the side rear window on a 96 Tracker clips into. They bolt to the body and are like plastic rails for the lip on the window to lock into. All info will be greatly appreciated.

John

sharonv · August 2005

Can anyone tell me the name of a Repair Manual for a 2000 Chevy Tracker. We are tring to replace the front brake Rotors and are having problem removing the old ones.

I appreciate you help.

Sharon

harold3 · August 2005

Haynes 1986 thru 2001 # 90010. At most auto stores.

poorcruzer · August 2005

Powertrain control module. What it does specifically I am not sure.This is just a guess. I think the PCM enables the 4WD to shift in and out while the vehicle is in motion. It controls the engaging of the Electric motor acuator. It works in conjunction with the 4WD relay in the engine compartment and the Electric motor acuator. In my case, the electric motor acuator which engages the front axle shorted out don't know why but will try and find out. It blew the PCM which when replaced gave a code for the EMA. The EMA is a 520.00 CAN dollar part, about 450.00 U.S. I hope that doesn't happen out of warranty. The PCM when replaced had to be recallibrated. I am just a backyard mechanic who knows cruisers far more than this truck but I am learning with the help of my G.M service manuals.

poorcruzer · August 2005

My 2003 trackers rotors have two 8mm holes in the rotor hub face. The manual states if the rotor will not come off easily install two 8mm bolts in the holes and tighten evenly in order to force rotor off wheel hub. Good luck.

scotter · August 2005

I had a blinking 4WD light also. Went to Chevy dealer, they said PCM as well. I didnt accept that as the PCM only recieves a signal that 4WD is engaged, the engagement is strictly mechanical. I traced the problem to the front differential air pump. Chevy wanted $436, Suzuki dealer was $185, same part as both have the number embossed in the pump housing. Anyway put on the new pump and problem solved and its been working great for almost a year.

Parts from the Suzuki dealer are always much less then from Chevy. I broke a plastic interior trim piece a while ago. Chevy dealer was $ 108, Suzuki dealer $ 47.50, and again the same part number molded on the underside of the part.

poorcruzer · August 2005

You are probably right, north american dealerships love ripping off their manufacturer for unneccessary work. I didn't care at the time as the truck was under warranty but trust me I am learning and will try to find out myself once out of warranty. No kidding about the cost difference. Tried to buy Suzuki oil filters from Chevrolet, they wanted $20.99 CAN each. Went to Suzuki bought twenty of them received a jobber rate at $10.19 each. Manufactors oil filters are known to be better quality than aftermarket. Luckily for us about the only Chevrolet specific pieces is the front end. As I store my truck in the winter to hold off the ravages of salt I wondered if due to lack of use the electric motor acuator failed, although my Suzuki dealer said no.

As my truck can be shifted into 4WD high up to 100km/ph or 60mph doesn't that require some sort of computer assistance to engage the front axle smoothly?

laonline · August 2005

I'm having the same issue and am glad I saw this topic. redbuggyboy, in post 1096 you mentioned that you bought a sensor and assembly from Autozone. Did the repair take care of the problem? I also have a 2.0 and am wondering if it was difficult to replace? thanks

scotter · August 2005

As far as the acuator failing from lack of use, probably not. I do not use my 4WD drive much either, but honestly the design is poor. The air pump turns on when you shift into 4WD and engages the front diff. There is a very cheap little pressure switch that turns off the pump at a pre-determined pressure, very low, probably about 2 or 3 psi. When the pressure switch shuts the pump off, the 4WD light comes on to indicate the front diff is engaged. What happens is the 25 cent pressure switch leaks, air pressure goes down, 4WD light goes out, diff dis-engages, pump turns back on, builds pressure and so on. And this repeats and repeats.Why they dont use a vacuum system I dont know. Vacuum is free, and all you need is 1 normally open and 1 normally closed sloenoid valve and your done.

As far as engaging 4WD over 60 mph. Everything starts at the transfer case, and the switch to put the actuator pump in motion, is in the transfer case. According to the service manager at the Suzuki dealer, at around 60 mph the syncro gears are spinning to fast for engagement of the secondary drive gears ( the front drive shaft ). He said if you tried you would feel and hear grinding and it would take a great deal of muscle power to force it in. I have never tried to shift to 4WD higher then about 30 anyway, so I dont know if he is right, but I assume so.

I dont know about where you live, but the Suzuki dealer by me is very helpful in answering anything. The service manager has even taken me in the shop to talk to mechanics if he doesnt know the answer.

sharonv · August 2005

Thank you so much for the info. I'll pass this information on to my friend that is trying to change them for me. Did you get this information from a repair manual or the owner's manual. Thank you again. Sharon

poorcruzer · August 2005

Thanks for the info on the activation of the 4WD system sorry if you misunderstood my comment about speed as I said up to not over 60 mph. I have no doubt and will have nightmares tonight thinking about shifting into 4WD at speeds over 60 mph. You are right vaccum is free.

poorcruzer · August 2005

The info came from the G.M authorized service shop manual 11" wide 14" long 6" thick about a thousand pages of everything you want to know about your truck, although it does assume you are a mechanic already. The reading is very technical but complete.Imagine a bible specifically for your Trucks year and you get the pic. Although I find it doesn't explain the function of specific parts, like electric motor acuators.

poorcruzer · August 2005

To the Americans in the southern U.S, Canadians hopes and prayers are with you. Good luck and god bless.

jailmama · August 2005

I also have A/C problems. I bought my 2000 tracker used at the end of August 2003. The next year when I turned on the A/C it didn't work. So, I took it back to the dealer where I had bought it to get it fixed seeing I got the used car warranty and even upgraded it the day I picked up my Tracker.

Before they hooked it up to the computer they checked the fuses and sure enough, a fuse was blown. They changed the fuse and the A/C ran for about 5 minutes and the fuse blew again. Then they said it was probably electrical, but wouldn't be able to tell what was causing the fuse to blow unless they went through all the wiring and traced it to whatever, and wouldn't know if it was covered until they figured out what was causing this problem. Dilema, dilema, dilema.

I decided I would let them have it for no more than an hour and a half. Well come to find out, the cooling fan motor was blowing the fuse and I would need it replaced. It wasn't covered under warranty and for a mere 6 hundred some dollars they could fix it. $300 just for the part. Needless to say, I wasn't pleased and did not get it fixed Now after having our warmest summer on record I'm really not happy! Get home from work feeling like a wet dishrag! The Tracker was only 3 years old and already a part this expensive went bad? Give me a break! I'm going to send Chevy an email to let them know how upset and unhappy this has all made me. Just thought I would share my experience. :mad:

poorcruzer · August 2005

The cooling fan motor is easy to replace, about 1/2 hr work. As for the cost of the part try suzuki and see what they can do for you.

mg_tracker · September 2005

I have a Tracker 4-door 4x4 bought new in 2000. Worked fine until I had two problems in the last two months. The first one was replacement of the left rear bearing - the symptom was a slight repetitive noise when running at low speeds, the frequency directly dependent on the speed. The second problem was the clutch. For a car driven only 80,000km, without abuse, this is a premature failure. Considering I still have about 20% left in the original brakes and tires are still in good condition for at least another year, I feel that the clutch should have lasted longer.

At present I was considering if it is worth keeping the car or replacing it with another small SUV. My intentions were to keep the car for another 100,000km, but not if it will require expensive repairs every year.

Am I owning a car with more problems than average? What do other owners of Trackers manufactured in 2000 experience?

Chevy Tracker

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles