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Can anyone help with a solution on how to repair the fault.
Regards
PP2
These switches are KNOWN to get flakey sometimes. (especially after a rainstorm). In this "flakey" condition, they may send signals that the computer does not understand. (door OPEN and CLOSED at same time.....-or- door LOCKED and UNLOCKED at same time)
If you search the internet, you will find some folks have posted photos showing how to access the switches and how to clean them so the contacts are working again.
Sometimes when my VW gets like this, I repeatedly lock/unlock the door for several minutes.... this tends to "exercize" the microSwitches and clean up the contacts. After that, they work for several months.
Kind regards
PP2
If you have to replace a microswitch, here is link to use $3 part at Radio Shack .
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When I hit less than a 1/2 tank of gas, it didn't start again, but did with a jump. I brought it back to the aftermarket mechanic, where he stated it was the battery, and replaced it. A week later, it would not start again, and I brought it back to the aftermarket mechanic, who stated that he hooked up to the voltage meter, stated that it pulled the regular 3300 milliamps for 15-20 minutes after it was parked, and then intermittently had a parasitic draw of 3300 milliamps 2 -3 hours after sitting there. He suggested that I take it to the dealer.
SO I took it to the dealer, left it over night, and it started up the next AM. They ran a diagnostic, and told me that I might have had a bad plate in the new battery. I let them keep it, with the old battery in it, in hopes that it would not start this AM. Naturally, it started like a champ. The service tech stated that he did not want to pull the old (potentially bad 1 week old battery out) until he can figure out the issue. Now it is sitting at the dealer for the weekend.
Any thoughts? I have had both mechanics check everything I know that could be causing it not to start....including fuel pump and system, alternator, sensors, electrical system....
Thanks for any help in advance....
A parasitic draw on the battery CANNOT be blamed on the battery. That "dealership" may not have their best factory-trained electronics personall on your issue.
The standard troubleshooting process should work just fine:
1) We know there is a parasitic draw on the battery.
2) Pull fuses or disconnect wires to isolate the problem-circuit.
3) troubleshoot down to the specific problem component
4) Fix it!
Of course the above process works better if one has a good schematic digram and electronics knowledge. Any knowledgable person should have the problem-circuit isolated within 30 minutes....then consult the schematic digrams to continue from there.
Suggestions for troubleshooting this issue.
*) Set up ammeter to monitor the parasitic draw as you troubleshoot.
*) Pull each the wires off of the master fusebox (located on top of the battery.)... until the specific one causing the problem is ioslated.
*) use schematic digram to figure out where that wire leads to.
Several months ago the radio would turn its self on while the car was off, but the battery never died, 2 months ago we replaced the radio and cd player. 2 weeks ago she went out and the car was dead, we had it towed to the dealer, they said the battery was dead, they charged it and kept it 3 full days but could never find where anything was draining a charge from the battery. Today she goes out, the car is dead again. The dealer says there is nothing to do but try and find the drain. I have asked about some kind of switch that would keep it from draining the battery and he said it is not possible. She is suppose to leave on a 1600 mile trip with this car.
I have not idea what to do, what to ask
Have you considerd a "Battery Buddy" ? ... its purpose in life is to automaticly disconnect the battery from the car if its voltage gets too low... hence preventing battery from draining completely.
Obviously, this would to SOLVE your problem...just would be a 'band aid'.
I dont even know where to start here...
You said "My radio created a short in the system and killed the battery." How is that possible... that is why they invented fuses.
You said that you "Replaced the head unit with a new battery." Why did you you do that? Was the battery under the hood not satisfactory?
Then you say "A week later the battery wasn't charging. So of course it is the alternator"... how do you know that this problem was due to the alternator? Most charging issues are caused by faulty voltage-regulator.
Then you say "the alternator was overcharging." ... Perhaps you mean the "battery was getting too high a charging voltage"?
Then you suggest "the alternator is sucking too much out of it each night" ... HUH?? an alternator sucks?
In reality what most likely happend was the 1st "mechanic" knew very little about electronics and decide to replace the alternator to get some of your money. That is why he did not want to deal with your problem any longer (he already got some of your money)
The, 2nd "mechanic" suggested the charging voltage was too high... this is OBVIOUSLY a problem with the voltage-regulator.... not alternator at all.
BOTTOM LINE: If you want to fix a charging problem, use a voltmeter and electronics-skills. It takes about 10 minutes to isolate any problems. Most "mechanics" may be wonder-boy when it comes to mechanical issues... but they know very little about electronics.
Back to the original discussion - To isolate an "electrical drain" simply monitor the milliamp draw from the battery and start pulling fuses until you isolate the problem curcuit. Then look at the electronic schematic to see what components that fuse protects.... simple as pie. (cept, I cant cook worth a cr@p)
I am CERTAIN you are not the first person who asked this question. Have you tried searching the various VagCom forums? (or even read the VagCom instruction manual?)