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Shock and Strut Replacement -- Cheap, OEM, or Upgrade?

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Comments

  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Well, a lot of people do lift kits by themselves. In my opinion it's not very difficult, especially with coil overs like you have, and a 2" lift is not as involved as higher ones. But, if you don't have any experience working around suspension systems, then my advice is to get some help from someone who does, or have it done. Not that it's mechanically challenging, but it can be dangerous.
    Also, typically you need heavier and larger tools than most folks have.
    If you decide to do it yourself, remember to follow safety rules, jackstands, wheel chocks, etc. It would help a lot if you had access to a floor jack.
  • mandy82mandy82 Member Posts: 1
    In reply to: This forum is to discuss shock/strut problems and how to best deal with what is becoming a rather expensive replacement item on cars approaching 60K-80K miles. Are products sold by chain stores just too cheesy to give decent performance? Is it worth upgrading shocks and struts if you are a more or less docile driver? Is OEM a rip-off for what you get?

    Let's hear your ideas and experiences.

    Here's my answer:

    your nissan strut mounts might need replacement. you should change every single one of them when you change one. check also on your suspension brushing. it may need some replacement too.
  • oldfarmer50oldfarmer50 Member Posts: 22,646
    What is the difference between Strut and Wishbone suspension? Does one offer better handling than the other? I know this is basic but if I don't ask I'll never learn.

    2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible

  • dean0101dean0101 Member Posts: 1
    I got main from www.autopartsway.com Couldn't get better service from anyone.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    A strut suspension, has a combination spring over shock combo unit, which bottom ends connects to the hubunit. The bottom of the hubunit has a balljoint, which connects to a triangular A-frame like wishbone frame. The frame can move up and down, but not front/back, or in/out. So when you turn the wheel, the whole strut unit turns. The strut unit actually is pretty strong, as it is the weight bearing suspension part. The top end of the strut assembly mounts to the 'frame' high up in the engine compartment. This is a simple lowercost suspension.

    In a wishbone suspension you have two A-frames, one on the bottom of the hub (similar to strut assembly above), and another on the top. The hub pivots on balljoints between these two A-frames. The spring then mounts between the body frame and one of the A-frames, and the shock mounts similarly as well. More parts to this assembly.

    There are pro's and con's to both. Factors are cost, space, wheel alignment under different loading and body lean conditions, etc.
  • bandhelbandhel Member Posts: 2
    I have been hearing a pretty loud metal-to-metal "CLUNK" coming from the right front wheel area whenever I go over a gentle bump or dip in the road. The sound seems to come out only when going over a particular kind of gentle bump/dip (more often dip) on the road, and when I'm not going too fast either (probably between 20 - 50 mph). I don't think I've ever heard it when travelling at highway speeds, but this could be because of the road noise covering it up. Also, this does not happen very often when I'm driving alone. Having a passenger with me (i.e., more weight on the right side) definitely makes the sound come out more often/more easily.

    The car is a '98 Civic. I first started noticing the sound after an accident about a year ago in which the car's right side ran over a wooden log on the highway (long story). I had a blown tire up front and since only one side of the car ran over the log, the (auto) transmission case got hit by it and was cracked open. I got a brand new transmission and, since the dealership told me the front right suspension was bent and could not be aligned, the entire knuckle assembly (and some other parts -- probably the control arm) were replaced as well. The repair was done well but I'm now stuck with this clunking sound problem. I've brought it back to the dealer but they told me they could not reproduce the problem.

    Sorry about the long post, but can anyone tell me what is the most likely cause of this sound and how dangerous it is to continue driving? I have been driving the car for about a year since I first noticed the problem and so far nothing has happened. But it sure is unsettling whenever I hear it! Thanks in advance.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    I've brought it back to the dealer but they told me they could not reproduce the problem.
    I've noticed that dealers are good for that.

    It could be a loose strut or a CV joint that is having a problem. Is it more pronounce on slow turns? Or on bumps?
    The best thing is to take it to a good tire shop, they usually have a good suspension person. Have them take a look and see what they think.
  • bandhelbandhel Member Posts: 2
    It's more pronounced on bumps/dips and I don't think the angle of the steering wheel has any effect. It happens when both turning and going straight -- basically whenever the car goes over this particular kind of gentle bump/dip. Do you think this means it's a lose strut rather than a bad CV joint?

    Thanks for the advice. As far as tire shops, would you recommend any of the national chains? If so, which one?
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    It sounds like either the strut is loose or possibly one of the wheel bearings may be shot.

    As for one of the national chains, if they have a suspension/alignment guy, then they should be able to locate the problem. If you are on the west coast, Les Schwab Tires usually has pretty good alignment guys.
    Just have them check it out (you may have to pay for diagnostics). Then you can decide how you want to procede. If the dealer won't warranty the work, then you may be better off having someone else do the work. Their work for you wasn't very good.

    Here is a small list of thoughts of things it could be.
    Loose or broken motor mount.
    Loose or broken strut or strut tower.
    Loose or broken steering knuckle.
    worn out wheel bearings.
    Loose brake caliper.

    Any of these will cause a clunk.

    Does it clunk on acceleration or deceleration more than not?
    Or is it only when going over bumps?

    Usually CV joints will make more noise on turning than going straight.
    If you can narrow down where the noise seems to be coming from, that will help.
  • siadnsiadn Member Posts: 3
    I have a 01 Accord. It seems to give a creaking sound when going over uneven road. also when I go over a speed bump slowly and the car moves up and down it gives a creaking noise.

    Should I go to Midas in the Maryland area?
    I have about 60,000 miles on the Accord.
  • jerseycoastjerseycoast Member Posts: 1
    Just came back from the dealership with a quote of $795.99 plus tax. "1999 Cirrus" Two front struts and upper support bearings. A little over 60,000 miles and had all brakes repleced then started hearing this rattling up front. Took it to a shop other then dealership and was told my I had a bad right ball joint. So had both replaced. Managed to take some of the rattling out but didn't end the noise. Finally was told by a body shop friend that my upper strut suopport bearings were shot. Kits in the auto store run about $15 to $30 per strut but the cost to replace then is the same as if they were installing new struts. So the complete package along with an alignment was the above price quoted. I find the price a bit high but when it comes down to it what is the alternative? It is funny how some cars can run pretty near a lifetime and never have major front end problems yet others with only 60,000 need pretty near the complete front end replaced. I guess you call it good car-bad car. Good luck finding the right price.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Do you drive on rough roads? I ask because when I lived on the east coast there were some pretty rough roads. That could be an explanation.
    If your talking about two new strut assemblies, without the springs (old springs compressed and re-used), two new upper bearings, alignment and labor, it sounds a bit high. If completely new struts are used (new springs already installed) then it could be about right. I'm not real familiar with the car though so there could be something I'm not aware of that makes it more expensive.
  • kennyd1kennyd1 Member Posts: 4
    Took my 98 Dodge Neon to have the radiator fan relay replaced at a local shop. Also, purchased an oil change with "complimentary" tire rotation. Picked up the car and drove the .5 mile home without noticing anything.

    Drove the car to work the next day and the ride was terrible with hard bumps and bouncing.

    Called the mechanic first thing to see if any adjustments had been made to the suspension during the tire rotation to explain the rough ride. He got defensive and stated that he did not do a tire rotation and nothing he did could have caused any problems. Though the garage secretary mentioned the tire rotation twice to me before the work he stated that the tire rotation was listed on the receipt but he blamed it on a computer error.

    Took the car back that evening and the mechanic found that all four struts are frozen. No movement up or down.
    He could not explain what would freeze all four struts simultainiously and implied that the problem was there before he touched it. It was not. This same mechanic had replaced the brakes on the car 6 months earlier with no problems at that time. His only solution was for me to pay $800 to replace all four struts with no acceptance of fault or reduction in price.

    Could he have damaged all four struts with improper lift placement or usage?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Unlikely. How many miles on this vehicle, and are these the original struts?
  • kennyd1kennyd1 Member Posts: 4
    80k and original struts. It would make sense that these things are due to be replaced. But I do not understand how all 4 struts froze up at the same time in the same way. What are the odds?
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I've never heard of a strut "freezing up". Do you mean that there's no travel in the suspension at all? Even if a strut was damaged I don't see how it could happen to all four simultaneously. Is the ride height the same as it has always been?
  • kennyd1kennyd1 Member Posts: 4
    You cannot push down on any corner of the car. And when you lift up on any corner there is no movement either. It is as if all four struts froze at the lowest point of travel(car sits high).

    I am not sure about the ride height. The gap between the tires and the wheel wells are even on all four sides and if anything a little bit wider than before. That is why the first thing that I thought about was the mechanic's lift.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Very unusual.
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    I would take the car to AAA station if you belong to them and they will honestly diagnose the problem and tell you what is wrong...part of the road side insurance. If you do not have that then just take it to a good mechanic and get another opinion and then take that info back to the first guy and ask them to fix it...if not take them to small claims after you get the repairs done so you can show the judge what it costs. Even if they lifted the car wrong the extension of the shocks should not have frozen them. If they used the bottom of the shock/struts connection to the chassis to push on for the lift it should have not harmed them. I use a car jack all the time and place it directly at the bottom of shocks so I don't have anything "hanging" down when lifting to work on a brake or wheel. Do you have struts on all four wheels? If only on the front then take the rear shocks off and try getting them to move. Have you looked at anything else that might be holding the car frame from allowing the chassis to move? It might not be the struts or shocks at all and something else keeping the chassis from moving in relationship to the frame. Just a thought. Something this strange you have to start thinking outside of the box....look for anything not what should be but anything. No one can tell me that all four shocks are acting the same exact way from failure. Something other than the shocks is going on....take that approach.
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    I have a 93 jeep GC with about 135k miles and the orginal shocks. There seem to be two shocks at each wheel...one that looks like a regular shock and then another that looks like a backup if the jeep comes crashing down. Anyone know if both need replacing or just the primary. The jeep seems to not need shocks but with that many miles I wonder if the ride would be different and I just don't know it since I have nothing to compare it too.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I would be real interested to hear what the problem really is. This is quite strange.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I agree, very strange.

    Maybe he/she "forgot' to mention they did a weekend Baja road trip.
  • kennyd1kennyd1 Member Posts: 4
    Update: Took the car to another mechanic and he said that because the shocks were weak (80000 miles) when the car was lowered from the lift at the other shop all of the springs were binding on a tapered part of the strut. (my understanding) If the first shop had put the car back on a lift and really looked at the problem he should have found it. He just quoted the $800 price tag.

    The second shop replaced all four shocks\struts with Mcpherson's for just over $500.

    Thanks for the responses this one had me stumped.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    For that to happen they must have been real bad.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    This is still puzzling. Have you not had any work done to this vehicle in a REALLY long time, where they would have for instance changed or rotated a tire, or checked/replaced brakes?

    You can put a car on a lift where the ramps lift the tires up, just as if it was sitting on the ground. Good for basically getting underneath it. Or, you can lift the frame up, so the tires extend down and allow you to work on each of the wheels.

    I guess it is conceivable that if you have NOT had it up on a lift for a long period of time, that each shock could have gone completely bad over that timeframe, and when they lifted it as each wheel dropped down somehow because the shock was internally broken that it bound up in a fully down position.

    I guess it is possible, but I would have thought that you would have noticed the shocks/structs bad....making a racket everytime you went over any little bump.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I don't think I've ever heard of anything like this happening. I've seen broken springs, shock mounts, any kind of suspension parts, and who knows what else, but for this to happen on all four corners at the same time is quite unusual. It must have been bouncing down the street like a lowrider, or there's something else fishy going on.....
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I agree, seems way too weird. I'm coming back to the theory of a teenager running it in the Baja......or they have one tremendous set of speed bumps at the homestead.

    I just can't imagine all of those coincidentally going bad at the similar timeframe, and not recognizing any problem along the way.

    Edit....I wonder if someone had previously replaced the original mfg struts, with an incorrectly sized strut that wasn't the right length, and because not the right length they went bad.
  • wpatterswpatters Member Posts: 54
    I just wonder if the lift dropped suddenly and jammed the shock/struts? That would be like the whole car being throw out a window. That could cause all four since it would be perfectly parallel to the ground and bamm! The whole car hitting the ground could have done the damage and he certainly would not have told you. :mad:
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I don't know, but the impression I got was that the struts were jammed in their fully extended position, which would be opposite, wouldn't it?
  • smitty303smitty303 Member Posts: 11
    I live in the Denver area and was wondering if anyone could suggest a good shop to bring my front strut assemblies to for spring compression and strut replacement. I'm not brave enough to fool with a spring compressor myself, so I'd like to find a shop/store that I can just bring the strut assembly to and have them remove the old struts and replace them with new ones I purchased. Thanks. :)
  • olddog7olddog7 Member Posts: 23
    My son has a 1998 Sebring convertible, with 115k miles. Yesterday(well with him it could be considerably longer)he heard squeaking on the passenger front side. He showed me how when he pushed down on that side, it made loud squeaking. What do you suppose is the problem? I called PEP boys and was told it could be one of these things: struts, replacement $58 each side/ $150 labor for both, lower idler arm $20 parts/ $170 labor, upper arm $30 parts/ $179 labor(not sure if that includes one or both sides) or possible the bushings need to be lubricated(cost unknown. I'm asking for opinions on this, price wise etc. Also an alignment would need to be done, cost: $69.99. Thanks for the advise.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    On the phone diagnosis appears corrects for the symptoms you list. Seems reasonable pricing if you aren't going to do it yourself.
  • olddog7olddog7 Member Posts: 23
    Well I'm going to have him go to my brother-in-law. He's a mechanic, but doesn't own his own shop(shop he is in is very expensive and specializes in foreign cars). If he can fix it, well that would be perfect, if not I'm sure he can give me an honest diagnosis. There is no way I'm doing anything myself!
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    The driver-side rear of my '02 Subaru Impreza WRX with 108,000 miles bottoms out over bumps when I load in 3 other people. The suspension seems a little weak, and the left wheel sticks out slightly more than the right wheel on the rear.

    I am guessing that I need two new Struts and an Alignment, but wanted to check.

    One mechanic stated that I needed new springs, while a 2nd stated that I probably did not. The 2nd also stated I could get spacers for the springs if I was really worried about it.

    What should I do?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think you just blew out a strut. I'd replace both rear strut inserts and not worry about the springs for now. I suppose once the rear struts are disassembled you could inspect and compare the two springs and see if there is a marked difference in height.

    Alignment sounds like a good idea. The WRX is not all that great a handling car to begin with, so any real alignment issues is probably going to aggravate that.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think you just blew out a strut. I'd replace both rear strut inserts and not worry about the springs for now. I suppose once the rear struts are disassembled you could inspect and compare the two springs and see if there is a marked difference in height.

    Alignment sounds like a good idea. The WRX is not all that great a handling car to begin with, so any alignment issues is probably going to aggravate that. The rear tire deviance sounds like some sort of camber issue, worth looking into.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The WRX is not all that great a handling car to begin with

    Huh?

    -mike
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah I know Subaru freaks never like to hear that, but the WRX gets its reputation from its grip, not its handling. It's got a lot of front end lift and subsequent understeer.

    All correctable with some suspension parts, at the expense of some noise and comfort.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    okie dokie :)

    -mike
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    check the additional cost of the spring replacement as there should not be any additional labor if you do it at the same time as the strut.
  • sean300sean300 Member Posts: 41
    Hello. Has anyone had any experience with KYB struts? I recently changed all four struts on my '98 Lexus es300 and this brand was highly recommended. I hear they provide a sporty ride and are good, especially on Japanese cars. Will they outlast OEM or Monroes?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I've installed several sets of KYB struts on Subarus over the years. The GR2s are a good OEM replacement with a slightly sportier ride over stock. The AGX version has adjustable settings on it. If you really want a sporty ride I'd personally go with Bilstien or Koni Sport inserts.

    -mike
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    They are "okay" IMO. I think they are a good value, but I have busted a few. I can't say that they are vastly superior to OEM. Bilstein is a great shock and I think a cut above the rest. But for the money I think you made a good choice.
  • sean300sean300 Member Posts: 41
    I like them. I've only had one problem and that is when I had them put on the vehicle. A few days later when going over the Throgs Neck Bridge I hit a bump and the car began to shake violently. Luckily, my mechanic is only 15 minutes away. He said that one of the holes on the strut was slightly larger than normal and that caused some play with the bolt. He said that he put a washer on to stabilize it and so far it seems to have been ok. I personally think that he didn't tighten the bolt fully. As for the sporty ride, they appear to give a similar ride to the oem's but it's a Lexus, not a 350z or any other sports car. Total cost (p & l): $550.
  • roycebroyceb Member Posts: 7
    the right front shock broke from rust on my 97 ford contour. I can see there are 2 coils and one is still intact. If i could I would like to do it myself. Is it possible? Are OEM shocks the best type to get?
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    it is probably a strut and they are dangerous and better left to a shop. the vehicle will need alignment also
  • a2rabidhabita2rabidhabit Member Posts: 5
    I just got Monroe Sensa-Trac struts for my '01 Subaru Legacy wagon, and they're beating me to death! The ride is much harsher and more jittery than the OEMs I (probably unnecessarily) replaced (at 113000 miles), especially going over any road imperfections at highway speeds. Is this normal for Sensa-Tracs? Could I have received the wrong struts (from Sears)...maybe ones meant for Outbacks? Am I stuck with this horrible ride?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's hard to say if something is wrong. The Sensa-Trac isn't supposed to be all that firm, but it is an old design and has been superceded by the Reflex shock. For me personally, and this is just an opinion, you kind of get what you pay for with a Monroe shock, especially a somewhat obsolete design. It might not have been the best choice, but how would you know until you try them? Maybe if you jump up and down and whine and holler, Sears will exchange them for Reflex type with a pro-rate, especially if you had asked them about the shocks' ride characteristics. Also sure, check the application and make sure they gave you the right one. I have an Outback of similar year and the ride is not harsh at all on OEM.
  • a2rabidhabita2rabidhabit Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info and suggestions, Mr S. I had checked Monroe's Web site and found that the Sensa-Trac was the only strut mentioned as applicable for the '01 Legacy. Unfortunately, I didn't talk to Sears about them before my purchase, trusting that Monroe's claim of "comfort and control" was valid. I'm going back to Sears today to see what I can work out.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah, tell them you are very unhappy with the ride and that you'd like the upgraded new and improved shock instead of this old stuff. If they want to charge you a pro-rate for the use you got out of the shocks, that seems fair if a bit nit-picking. So they are saying that Monroe only sells their obsolete shock for the Subaru? Hmmm......... :surprise:

    If you want to die and go to heaven, buy Bilsteins---but they are expensive. however, if you plan to keep the car for a long time, well worth it. But Koni makes a good shock, and the KYBs are decent enough for the money.
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