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I have a 2003 Tracker with the same problem you were describing (intermittant heat). Did you ever solve your problem and figure out the cause?
Craig8186
Craig8186
Thanks all
I've done some searching for instructions on how to disable DRL, but found no clear answers.
Is there anyone out there familiar with the 2000 Chevy Tracker that can assist in instructing me how to disable DRL?
I know I can pull the parking brake up a notch, but is there a (relatively simple or difficlut) way to permanently provide me alone, as the captain of the ship, with the hefty responsibility of turning on my headlights when needed?
And more importantly... turning them off.
Thank you in advance,
Tom
http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html
The Suzuki Vitara is a sister car to the Tracker and here are the instructions they gave for that vehicle.
1. Unplug the DRL module located under the dash to the right of the steeering column. It's a small silver box with a multi pin plug in its side, pretty obvious.
2. Lift the circular light sensor on the right side of the dash. Unplug it. Don't drop the plug into the dash. Retain it and be sure to secure it with a string attached to the sensor housing so it can be recovered if need be, and does not rattle
Easy as that!
Here is another link directed toward a 2001 Tracker.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070618100133AAqVjvx
Hope this helps.
Recently I had problem with the fan seizing up, and I went to the dealership and the elecrtic fan, which he indicated cools the engine and also defrosts the inside windows needs replacement. At this time, he told me that he pulled the relay switch plug and informed me that it would need to be fixed before the weather gets too warm, since it needs to cool down the engine. (I live in Wisconsin). He also informed me that it would cost about 600.00. Has anyone have this issue, and is the cost accurate. Please advise.
His comment about the fan defrosts the the inside windows is also not really correct. When you turn on the defroster, the a/c compressor runs at temperatures above 30F, and again when the a/c is on so is the electric fan, but in itself it does not defrost the windows.
Now as for your fan replacement.....I would try a Suzuki dealer to see what their cost is for a Vitara fan, as it is the same vehicle. Other option would be, as I did with my wife's minivan, is take the fan off, and take it to an electric motor shop and see if they can rebuild it. I had the minivan fan rebuilt for $ 105 and a new one from Ford was $400. The other thing you may try is to lubricate the fan motor if it is seized due to dry bearings. The fan motor is not as "liquid tight" as one would think, and driving on the roads in Wisconsin, I would think that salt spray from the road over time would find its way into the motor and could cause it to seize up. I would try some spray lubrican like WD 40 etc, and spray it inside the motor through any opening you can find, let it sit for a while, start the car and turn on te a/c and see if the an runs. Keep in mind that in cooler weater the a/c will run for a short time and then due to low suction pressure it will shut off, pressure will rise, compressor will run again for a short time and shut off.
Hope this helps you, and if you have any oter questions, feel free to ask.
when it calls for 205/70/15's?
Thank's. Craig.
also make sure you dont have a busted motor mount!
I have a 2001 Tracker 4-Dr 4x4 with a 2.0L, and yes I also have my first question for the group.
We’ve just experienced a steering problem, and after reading some of the postings regarding the lower steering shaft u-joints failing, I removed the shaft and indeed found the lower joint to be NG.
I’ve found a couple of sites listing a replacement shaft for more than $300, what I was wondering is if anyone knows just what parts are interchangeable between the same year Suzuki Vitara?
Does a cross-reference chart exist?
One of the sites listed one for the Suzuki of the same year, it was $100 cheaper than the one listed for my Tracker but I don’t know if it’s actually the same part?
Does anyone know if this part is in fact the same between the two models?
Many thanks, Dave
as far the motor shaking it could be very well the motor mounts, it seems to go into drive and reverse pretty hard, to me thats a good indication.. its going to the mechanics this week for a tune up while i am there i am having them check the motor and trannie mounts.. anyone know what replacing a motor mount or mounts costs??? so i have an idea.. thanks for the reply.
The check engine light is also on. Having had the code checked at my local shop, they said it was the front O2 sensor, but they have no idea how that could cause any blinking...
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
And just because I referenced a ford doesnt mean it couldn't happen to a chevy, those 2 parts cause the same problems in all vehicles.
Good luck
I also removed the chassis ground wire and wire brushed that and the contact.
Still blinking.
The reason I am asking is I would like to put a set of PIAA fog lamps on my brushguard. The 540 series runs a 55w bulb. The 520s run 85 watts. I am just concerned with putting too much of a load on the generator/altenator and would accept all advice on this matter.
Thank you in advance
PS My A/C went on the blink recently and was traced to a blown fuse. I took the truck into Suzuki who showed me how the condensor fan in the very front of the truck could have a bit of ice build up if in one place for a while and when the A/C is activated it blows the fuse instead of frying the fan motor. If you don't drive your rig in the winter for any lenght of time reach in through the grill and just move the fan blades. If you hear a squealing or scratchy noise coming out of the condensor fan or the fan blades seem to catch, it's on the way out and will have to be replaced.
That's not obvious to me. Quality engineers know (a) that lives are on the line and (b) that irresponsible people will push the safety margins to their limit then seek massive damages when their luck runs out. I think prudence trumps conspiracy in this case.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
1) harmonic engine balancer- my Tercel went bad on me, caused roughness at idle.
2) Clean your thottle body, it may have carbon build up around the butterfly valve not enough air getting by to maintain a smooth idle. A toothbrush and some throttle body cleaner should do the trick.
3) if you haven't already, take it to a Suzuki dealer. :confuse:
If anyone can find the dimensions for a 2003 XL7 rotor please submit them. :confuse:
i did clean the throttle body it was done when i had the partial tune up..
lastly why a Suzuki dealer??
and thank you very much for replying...
The entire truck was designed in Japan, it is the reason why the rear door opens opposite to Jeep rear doors. The Japanese drive on the other side of the road so when they park on the street they don't have to walk around the rear door when loading. You will understand if you try and do an oil change on a 2.5L V-6 and you have to try and squeeze the oil filter between the steering column and cross members, all the time cursing Suzuki for not putting the oil filter on the other side of the motor where's there tons of room. On Japanese trucks there is tons of room.
I am not sure how much of the North American truck is made in Japan, the powertrain, engines, tranny, axles most definately are Japanese made and assembled. The only relation, the Suzuki XL7 which is a longer version of the GV and Tracker, is totally Japanese, being assembled in Hamamatsu Japan.The 2007 XL7 is a GM design based on the Torrent however the engines are a Suzuki assembled GM design. I am looking for a 2004 to 2006 XL7 five passenger not the seven passenger 5sp auto right now to compliment my Tracker.
As for taking your rig to a Suzuki dealer verses Chev is simple. They know your truck back to front and sideways, it's all they know, other than the Suzuki cars. They will know it quirks and quarks and the cheapest way to fix it as the Suzuki parts tend to be cheaper than at Chevrolet.I only take my truck into Suzuki as I trust them to fix it right the first time. Chev dealers don't like seeing these trucks come in as they usually don't have the parts to fix them and they also last so long.
As for the balancer I haven't got a clue and wouldn't want to render a guess.
I hope I have been a little help to explain your truck. They are awesome trucks and with routine maintainance will last a long time. Goodluck
The main problem I have now is that I cannot get the blasted bolt out! I checked with a mirror and it looked like a Torx head to me but the T-30 was too small and a T-40 is too big. Which size did you use? Do you turn it counter-clockwise like most bolts to loosen?
Thanks for saving my sanity!!
I use 4x4 when the snow is sticking to the roadways. If it is wet and snowing, 2x4 works just fine. I've used 4x4 up to 60 mph, though more often than not you will be traveling much slower than that.
The A/C works quite well in my 2004, and thus far no timing chain issues either. The only time I had trouble was when the 4x4 place forgot to tighten the negative cable at the battery post.
I've also been slowly fixing some of the interior imperfections, mostly due it seems to the previous owner transporting baby carriers in the back seats and other items in the trunk that gouged or damaged some of the trim. I've been able to find all the parts I need online. I've also had the whole car serviced up to manufacturer suggestions, again with no problem. I took it last to a place specializing in 4x4 vehicles, and at 66,000 miles it runs very well. I have not been dissapointed.
By the way, the lifetime MPG (well since I bought it with 40,273 miles) is 24, not too bad for a SUV. My other car is a 2007 Civic Hybrid, which, at 50 MPG is my drive to and from work car. The Tracker does weekend duty except in Winter.
Roger.