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Comments
Peter
Any other comments welcome!
Thanx a lot guys!!!!!!!
Thanks.
brisray@yahoo.co.uk
I own a 2004 GV and have experienced the same problem. It is a very annoying buzzing in the transfer shifter and seems to be getting louder with age. I presently have about 28,000 miles in my GV and other than that I have experienced zero problems. I owned a 1999 GV and it did not have any problems. The dealer says it is an inherent problem with some of the 4WD GV's. This is unacceptable to me and I plan to persue this further. Anyone else having any luck I would appreciate their input.
Thanks
Tom
Apart from that it's still running very well, the only work its needed doing is the recall mods and changing two tail-light bulbs.
The wind noise from the drivers side window is sometimes very loud. I thought it was just mine until I read some of the other posts. I found the best way to cure that was to drop the window all the way down then, whilst raising it, pull the front edge towards the rear.
Ray
Now that my extended warranty is over - I am having probs w/ the AC - which I was told that Suzuki posted a bulletin about faulty hoses/clamps. I was quoted about $1000 for having it fixed. Does anyone have any info about the AC unit?
Just hope the noise is gone.....when I first got the car the engine was silky smooth and quiet....still is silky smooth, just noisy like a lawnmower.
The noise is all top-end but listening to the engine for a while I could hear two seperate noises. One set is coming from the top valve covers (both sides) and the other is from the front of the engine.
I started to take the engine apart Saturday and can't see anything obvious causing the top end noise but the front end noise looks like it may be timing chain related. This is apparently a well known fault - http://www.jasperengines.com/pdf/Suzuki25ChainRattleTB.pdf
Anyone know...
a) where I can get a workshop manual for the V6 engine? None of the local parts places around here (Terre Haute, Indiana) or even the nearest Suzuki main dealers (over an hours drive away) can get one for me.
b) more specifically, anyone know if the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) bolt has a reverse thread? We've put over a 100 ftlb force on this thing and it ain't undoing. Snaping this bolt off is something I'd dread to do as it usually means a complete new engine.
Ray
Despite being assured (this morning by phone) by my local Suzuki dealer that the bolt on the harmonic balancer was reverse threaded, it bloody isn't. It's a normally threaded bolt that has to be unscrewed counterclockwise. Taking the radiator out, there's just enough room to get a power tool on this bolt.
If you're going to do this without removing the A/C condensor radiator? be very careful. As the bolt unscrews it's going to push the power tool against that componant and possible bust it. The power tool we used is rated at 350 ft lb and it took most of that to undo that bolt.
Once the zillion bolts holding the chain cover on were removed the cause of most of the noise was obvious. One of the tensioner/tensioner tracks had disintegrated into about a dozen bits. Not only are the chains not being tensioned but it looks like the bits of the wrecked tensioner were being thrown all over the place.
I'm glad I decided to investigate this noise when I did as I'm pretty sure I wasn't far from stripping the teeth off of some of the gearing - those chains really are that loose.
Altogether, to replace the tensioners and tensioner tracks is going to cost around $350, plus another $240 for a set of engine seals.
Good luck to anyone else trying to do this themselves, these engines are pretty difficult to get apart.
As to my orginal post, the valve timings are non-adjustable - as far as I can tell.
Ray
Apparently there is a parcel shelf for the cargo area for when the back seats are up - http://www.internetautoguide.com/car-specifications/09-int/2001/suzuki/grand-vitara/ and http://www.automotive.com/2005/12/suzuki/grand-vitara/specifications/
Like mine, I expect it got taken out at some time and not sold along with the car.
Ray
Ray
Ray
I don't know if it was just mine but all the bolts, and there are a lot of them, on the engine are very tight. I never could get a manual for this engine which meant that without the factory torques we had to guess how tight to do them all back up.
The crank bolt was absolute hell to get off. Two of us with a 3ft extension couldn't undo it and we used a power tool to do it.
You'll have to search for your local Suzuki dealer, Google, telephone book whatever.
I don't know if they were having an off-day or something but the particular dealer I used did tell me that crank bolt was reverse threaded when it wasn't and had to ask me if the new thermostat came with a new seal or if I needed a seperate one. Questions I thought a dealer should know.
Ray
Steve, Host
A friend of mine has this car, and she has an annoying squeak whilst running. It's not the serpentine belt, because it doesn't get louder when I swing the wheel. I think it's either the fan drive belt, or the viscous coupling on the fan itself. Is there any way I can diagnose it? And if so, how can I get the belt and/or fan out? Is it a radiator-out job? (There's no A/C to worry about.)
Cheers,
Mark.
Any help for Mark above?
Steve, Host
I have a 2001 Grand Vitara and when I am sitting in traffic with the transmission in Drive, a rattling and clinking starts to sound underneath the hood. As soon as I start going, it goes away. It doesn't do it if I put it in Reverse or Park, just the Drive gears. Also, when I put the A/C on, the rattling and clinking will go away. I thought it was something associated with the transmission until I noticed it going away when I put the A/C on. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.
Is your friend's car actually making a squealing noise intermittently? My 2000 Grand Vitara started doing that in March 2005. After 2 months it started getting worse. I finally figured out the noise was happening when something stopped spinning off the serpentine belt. Goodyear thought it was the serpentine, changed it and the noise got worse. It was the air compressor trying to freeze up. Whenever it stopped spinning, the belt would squeal like crazy. I was quoted $1240 at Goodyear and generously $800 by the son of a friend who works at Amoco. Needless to say, I havent had air since March and it is November 2 (Florida is dang hot in the summer). Still have heat at least!!!
I looked up this site because I wanted to see what kinds of problems I was going to run into as the car is 5 years old. Getting worried about all the posts on rear seals and timing chain issues. I bought it used in 2002 so don't know if any of this stuff was done to it and it is at about 80,000 miles now. Except for the a/c going out and recent tire purchases (due to multiple nails/screws etc), I have never done anything to it but oil changes and preventative maintenance (flushes, etc). I have to do some investigation as I can't afford all these timing and seal repairs, etc, see what Suzuki might pay for.
I do have that squeak that sounds like it comes from the dashboard but don't know anyone who could fix the hood latch that everyone says is causing it.
I love the car. It has been the most reliable car I have ever had so far. Unlike other reviews I have read, it kicks butt on acceleration. It is small and there are visibility issues under certain angles (a whole car or person can be out of site when trying to view through the side windows or rear corner windows due to the thick plastic molding in betwen windows and rear window/door). It is light and taller than a car, so the wind whips it around the road pretty bad.
You DEFINITELY DO NOT want to stop too fast on wet roads. The brakes lock and you just slide and the rear starts to fishtail. I prefer just to risk running the red light a little bit than to slide right through it. On a day when the road wasn't wet, someone pulled out in front of me into a median, but I didn't slow down. They ended up leaving the back of their van sticking out into my lane and I couldn't switch over. I slammed the brakes and they locked and the car started careening toward the left, right into the van. Nothing I could do but get out and scream at the idiot for doing it. Definitely needs an ABS.
At this point in time, still believe I would buy another one, but would get the XL7. It really isn't much larger but like the option of 3rd row seating!!!!
Thanks in advance!!!
Kevin
Anyone have an idea of what might me causing this problem. BTW, I did check my gas cap to make sure it is tight. Same goes for the oil dip stick- just to rule out a vacuum issue.
thanks,
rick502
The Squeeking noise is generated by friction between the small rubber bumpers and the bonnet paint work. To prove it to yourself just clean both slap on a bit of grease and I reckon you will be sqeek free. Rubbers are all over the car between doors,tail gate and under the bonnet.If you clean them regularly you will stop the noise.It happened to me the first time after driving on dirt roads.The height of the rubbers under the bonnet are adjustable just screw them one way or the other and you'll see what I mean,you might help the problem by adjusting them.
Hope this helps.
Mine is a 01 90km and did just that twice!
I know cars fairly well and I can tell u that this is something in the fuel supply.
I would appreciate much in case u find out what that is to have it posted and I will do likewise in case I find the end of this symptom.
thanx n happy new year
kris
I like the machine - has 81k and nice to get a 4wd again - used to have older jeeps and my other is a 91 Astro awd and my joy is a 74T500 Titan Suzie motorcycle
KJ
Steve, Host
I have just successfully stopped the dreaded GV Timing Chain Rattle on my 2000 Grand Vitara and would like to thank Ray (bisray) for his post as it made my job a little easier. As I tried to find a manual with no luck (probably like everyone else out there) the tip about the Impossible to remove Harmonic Balancer Bolt was handy as I could see how you would think you might be turning it the wrong way. (Thanks Mate)
I thought I would add my experience to the Frey in case it helps some other adventurer as they decide to fix the problem themselves.
For a start forget about trying to source a manual if you have enough mechanical skills to attempt this job you won't need it anyway. I’ll just add a few things that I discovered or thought of whilst doing the job.
TIP1. I could not undo the Harmonic Balancer bolt with even 380ft/lbs on the impact wrench. (Here is what I did.)
19mm socket on bent extension bar with 2ft extension pipe,
hand brake on in Reverse Gear. Get a 10inch "G" clamp and a small piece of 2"x1/2" hardwood, Get a friend to turn the socket as far as he can then lock the clamp on to the harmonic balancer using the hardwood to protect the outside of the balancer from damage by the clamp. Allow the clamp handle to ease back onto the bottom chassis cross brace so you can get a second bite with the socket and that should be enough to crack it. (Good luck it took ages to figure this out) but it works.
TIP2. Loosen Both Rocker Cover Bolts 2 at the front and 1 at the back (you can't get at the other back one) and gently slide the tip of a stumpy screwdriver between the rocker cover gasket and the head, you only have to flex the cover about 1mm or 1/10th of an inch to allow easy removal and much easier replacement of the timing case. This stops you causing damage to the rocker cover gaskets during reassembly.
TIP3. I use aircraft gasket sealing cement on all Aluminium machined joints (Black thick Liquid) and have never had an oil leak after an engine assembly. Smear it on both sides to be joined with a bit extra where the head and block join and valley and block join also on the inner timing case stud towers. (Don’t forget the front of the sump cover) and by the way don't overlook undoing the 4 front sump bolts before trying to remove the timing cover.
TIP4. Tie up your Timing Chains before you remove any Tensioner or guide bolts if they slip around the gears you're in for trouble unless you have a manual to show you the timing marks. I always get a paint pen and mark the chain at several points on the crank and the camshaft sprockets so if the worst happens and something slips you will be OK.Change the tensioners and guides that are worn 1 at a timothy while you have it apart change the lot labour is the expensive part anyway.
TIP5. I had to change 3 guides and the LHS tensioner, the 3 guides were showing wear and it is generally recommended to change the LHS tensioner I don't know why Unless the new part has been modified (I couldn’t see any difference) I think maybe the oil relief hole in the tensioner needs to be bigger this might make it less jerky as the chain spins around (only a thought).
LAST TIP I noticed that the small chain that drives the oil pump from the crankshaft was very sloppy and ticked when I moved it around, it has a manually adjustable tensioner which I adjusted (I'm wondering if anyone else has noticed this) and I'm wondering if this was most of the noise.
Oh yeah, the Dealer wanted to charge me $2800.00 to do the job. Parts were approx $200.00, what's going on in this world. I live in Australia.
In response to some other posts I have read THE DEALER won't have to remove your engine and it is very unlikely that he would have to replace your Timing Chains.
Shame on Suzuki for not fixing this problem with a Recall and I sure hope they have addressed the problem with the 2.7 litre engine as I was planning on an upgrade in a year or two but I will be finding out first. The main bragging rights for Timing Chain Engines is that you don't have to change a timing BELT every 70,000 KM. Let me tell you it is a snack to change a timing belt compared to Chains which are supposed to last for ages sometimes forever.
Sorry this is a bit long winded but I hope it helps someone in need.
Chris.
extended length i think so it is the grand vitara
has rust bubbles here and there on underside- tried spraying with wd40 just to check it as undercoating would just cover problem
wonder if there is an anode or some such to stop any progression
we like the machine!
yrs
KJ
heres my contribution:
phoney car alarm I am making
under 5 bucks!
get a
in line 12v fuse
12v to 3v resister
flashing red led at electronics store [ long leg is 12v[ cv] side
switch
connectors
from hot 12v to resister to led to switch to ground
silicon or? little led in small dash area where can be seen
switch on w in dubious territory
yrs KJ :shades:
Please help. Thanks!
Steve, Host
My oil pump chain was sloppy also. No that's not the noise
Whan I took off my chain cover there was no Tensioner or guides left there all in little peases inside the motor!
I mite have some brockn' velves two. but I'm not that far yet I'm waiting on the parts I orderd ($34 for 2 guides)
I took some photos that I wish I can insert but I can't.
I can e-mail them to you. my E-mail Is imoneofthree@hotmail.com
pipe leaking may be in exhaust manifold, mine is too, its expensive to repair even if you own your own shop. mine is still leaking not too bad but its not a priority for me now. only my a/c is so in the meantime i will keep charging my system on a daily basis so i can get home and to work without sweating to death. good luck to you !!!