Honda Accord (1976-1989) Maintenance & Repair

sueb5 · July 2009

My accord has over 200,000 miles on it. Just replaced alternator and battery 2 to 3 months ago and alternator is going out again. Battery light on dash is coming on and staying on. The alternator is a new, not rebuilt one. (Not a Honda brand) When I take the alternator in to have it checked on the machine it runs in the normal range and when I put back into car it sucks the life out of battery. The battery posts are clean, the connector wires to the battery have been replaced. What the car does as I'm driving is to loose power and I have to keep my foot on the gas at stoplights and if I have to make a sudden stop or slow down quickly (I.E. commuter traffic) it will die right there. What I don't get is why was I able to drive my car for approx 2 years before the 1st alternator went out and the 2nd doesn't last 3 months? (Maybe it's a bad alternator but I bought a good brand.)

Thanks for your input,
Sue B

solebrth · August 2009

could be the pump in the gas tank going bad , this happened to me , my 92 accord kept dying at any fast stop , so I replaced the tank altogether and had no problems after that . The tank was a used one from the junk yard for $50.00 dollards .

solebrth · August 2009

just bought a new one myself from RockAuto on line and it`s draining the battery in my 88 accord too ,Iam going to put back the orignal and have the new one checked out also this weekend and I`ll let you know what comes of it .

solebrth · August 2009

try rock auto ,com on line

trailmap · August 2009

Hi,
Loud noise from under back seat in my 1989 Accord LXi Sedan 2.0 AT.
Took the tank off and lots of rust in tank and on fuel supply unit and fuel gauge sending unit. What is the little red thing mounted on the tank between the fuel sending unit and the gauge sending unit?
Thanks :confuse:

tjrr · August 2009

For over a year now my instrument cluster is very noisy and is directly related to the speedometer. The Honda dealer suggested the cable be lubricated and they want $100. I declined - anyone know how to do this? Could not find anything in this forum or when doing a general search of the web. I don't know if I noise is from the speedometer itself of the cable rotating within its sheath.

ash86 · October 2009

I have a 1989 Honda Accord Lxi and haveing a few problems with it.

First off: When I go to start my car it clicks and doesn't make any sounds after that, but when I move the battery cables around it starts up. It may take a few times to get it to start. I noticed that there is electrical tape on the cable. Would that have anything to do with it not connecting? Would I need to buy a new battery cable?

Secondly: Whenever it rains the foor boards get soaked. Like not just wet, but like literally soaked. At first it was just my driver side but now its my passenger side too. Just wondering what that might be and how I could fix that.

Hopefully I got my point across. This is my first time posting a thread of any kind.

bearcat7777777 · January 2010

I have an 84 Accord. Has been a great car, but in the winter over the past few years it has developed a worsening problem. At first sometimes in cold weather you would be driving along and the engine would seem to lose power, RPM's would fall regardless of pressure to gas pedal. It would put you on the side of the road. If you sat and waited for the car to warm back up, it would allow you to drive away normally. This year in cold weather the car will not even idle long enough to get warm from a cold start. If I help it along by slowly pouring gas into the carb it will finally warm up and idle normally. Then last week with temperatures below zero here, it will not even do that. Someone speculated that it may be the choke thermostat, or may be called a choke pull off on my car, might very well be the problem. I here if it is this, that it can be a pretty complicated fix. It has been a great car and I hate to give up on it. Has anyone had a similar experience, that might shed some light on this for me?

mrbill1957 · January 2010

Let me start out by saying pouring gas down a carb while it's running is a very dangerous thing to do. I have a friend that did exactly that, and while he was pouring the gas in, the car backfired. A flame shot up and out of the carb while he had the can of gas in his hands, and, well needless to say, his life has never been the same since.

As far as the choke operation and choke pull off, you should be able to watch what it's doing when the car starts. Most pull offs I've delt with partially open the choke once the car starts by using the engines vacuum. Does the choke partially open when it first starts, and slowly open the rest of the way while the choke warms up?

Mrbill

joepeterson56 · January 2010

1988 Accord, 2000cc 4 cylinder Fuel Injected, 5 Speed Manual Trans.
I have 2 problems with this car that appeared at the same time, one day at startup, with no advance warning or change in performance.
Idle began searching suddenly from around 750-850 up to 2500 RPM's, constantly! No warning or change in running or performance prior to just starting it up one day and it began this. Cannot find any vacuum leaks, and know very little to nothing about Hondas, let alone early fuel injected models. I am very familiar with GM/Ford/Chrysler systems, and IAC valves etc. I have a Haynes manual as well as an 87 Honda accord dealer manual, but for some reason cannot seem to find a possible cause or solution. 1 mechanic mentioned a "thermo" control valve with a wax pellet type set up that sticks and can cause bad temp readings and lead to idle searching, but I find 3 "thermo" type valves listed in the dealer manual but no exact location, explanation or preceedure listed. No matter which thing I look for, the diagrams in the shop manual and the Haynes, have very bad quality drawings and pictures. Desperate for help as to where to look for cause and solution, as I am disabled on a very small fixed income, and this car never got less than 38MPG until this happened!! Temp indicator gauge also reads redline at what should be normal operating temp, does not use or lose any water, and is not the thermostat, so any ideas as to where this problem may also be?
Desperate for advice!! Thanks!

Mr_Shiftright · January 2010

Hmmm....I wonder if this is some kind of carburetor icing. Is there a hose/pipe from your exhaust manifold that goes into your air cleaner, to warm up the incoming air? If it's missing, replace it any way you can devise.

You are right, you don't want to try and rebuild those old Honda carburetors. I'd try every other remedy before getting into that rat's nest. The choke thermostat might not be too hard a fix, since I believe that is external to the carb. Maybe you could spray some carb cleaner around the choke butterfly to see if it's even working?

You might also try some fuel line de-icer, and also change out your fuel filter.

Let us know how it goes for you.

dukelady · January 2010

Drove to work yesterday morning, everything worked fine. Got in the car to come home my windows, wipers and sunroof did not work at all. Checked the power window relay and related fuses. They were all fine. Help please.

thegraduate · January 2010

Year, Trim, Engine of the car?

Have you checked the battery?

randalu · January 2010

I have an '86 Accord Lx-i with fuel injection. It smells like fuel inside the car when I am stopped if the heat/air is on fresh air. The fuel injector seals were leaking and we replaced those over a year ago. We are not able to find another leak. The mechanic suggested it could be a vapor leak but I'm not totally sure what that means. Any suggestions? :confuse:

Thanks!

Mr_Shiftright · January 2010

He means the evaporate emissions control system, which relies on vacuum to draw gasoline fumes back to the gas tank. So any leaks could send the smell into the passenger compartment. The test requires someone to pressurize the system and/or use a smoke machine to detect leaks.

You can also check yourself for loose or cracked vacuum lines/hoses.

randalu · January 2010

Thank you for clarifying that for me! I will check out the hoses, they are old so it's a pretty good possibility one is loose or cracked.

sktex · January 2010

Ok..I have a 89 accord lxi.which had been sitting awhile..the tank had some rust and old gas..but it would start and IDLE ALL DAY until you decide to drive it down the street..and it decides to strand ya;..!!.This is what I've done., 1. cleaned fuel tank 2. cleaned strainer and pump 3. blew out the lines and they had some water 4. put a few gals. of fresh fuel and heet (red bottle). I haven't replaced the fuel filter yet because its does the same thing...it will IDLE ALL DAY until u get ready to test drive..One other thing after u put it in gear it starts to idle up and down 1000rpm to 2000rpm back and fourth and it doesn' t do that every time you restart it. Could it be a "fix'in to go bad fuel pump"..,or the main relay...,or the......................help in Texas, SK

auburn6 · January 2010

I think it would be worth the money to replace the fuel filter because it does sound as if it is starving for fuel. Idle doesn't require as much fuel delivery as driving and if it is clogged it may let you idle but not much more than that. When the car dies does it start back up or do you have to let it sit for a while? The fuel pump could still be a factor depending on the amount of pressure it is putting out, main relay I doubt because they dont usually cut out once engaged they usually fail trying to engage, could be loosing spark if you have to let it sit for a long time before it re starts which would be an igniter. Once it dies if possible would be nice to know if it looses its fuel or spark.

The idle issue in gear is most like an idle air control valve( IAC ) that has gone bad, sticking.

sktex · January 2010

Hey thanks for the reply!..The car starts almost right back up...so I can scratch the igniter issue. While at parts store getting filter I'll check on the idle air control valve. Thanks auburn6 SK,..Texas

auburn6 · January 2010

No problem ,,,,,Good luck

hybridhiphop · January 2010

Does anyone know how to pull codes from these 89 accord Lx-i fuel injected models and where the terminals are to do so??? i think it's OBD-1, or am i wrong on that??can't you ground a few terminals with OBD-1 and use the flashes to determine the code?? whether you can or not, i cannot even find the test port to pull codes and looked everywhere?? my accord has 230,000 miles but runs fine mostly. only after it warms up, the check engine light comes on. The temp. gauge ALWAYS runs in the middle constantly when it's warmed up, NEVER fluctuates unless it's turned off or warming up. The other day on the temp gauge it was running almost down to a quarter steadily after it warmed up, i left it running and went in the store and when i came out and went to leave it died and wouldn't crank. 2 days later i went back to check it and it crunk up and drove home fine as usual, but the check engine light still comes on ONLY after it warms up or after it's been driven for 5 minutes. If i turn it off and turn the switch off, on, off, on, then crank it again, the engine light usually won't come on at all only during that driving session.
Any help is greatly appreciated as this is my only reliable transportation at the time.

hybridhiphop · January 2010

what could it mean if the check engine light comes on only when the car is warm, but it still runs and shifts fine, dies and over cools occasionally, but after a while, will crank up and run fine again? another sensor maybe or something mechanical?

thegraduate · February 2010

You can have the check-engine code read at an auto parts chain like Auto Zone for free, usually. That's what I did in my '96 Accord.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2010

You might find a manual HERE to give you the instructions for counting the codes.

sktex · February 2010

Alright...picked up new fuel filter and no I wasn't in the accord or I would had them check the codes out. The only change is its quicker on the throttle until it decides to strande ur ***..! again...lol......I guess the idle problem fix itself or the filter had something to do with it.....Fuel pump sounds fine..acts like it runs out of gas and spits and sputters when it cranks back up then it clears out. #422 explains what i've done.... sktex

auburn6 · February 2010

Ok well sorry that didnt work out for you. There are too many possibilties to be guessing at, so since the cheapest option didn't work out it is time for you to do some diag. Anyway you can put on a fuel guage and see if you loose fuel pressure when it dies out?

sktex · February 2010

Well I think your right..and thats what I'll start on in a couple of days I'm gonna take a break!!...Hey thanks again auburn6..

auburn6 · February 2010

Another thing I thought of today was for you to take off the air tube to the throttle body and try running it without it.. Since you said this car was sitting for a while I was thinking maybe a critter crawled up in there and made a home that is restricting air flow.

sktex · February 2010

Lol......No critters...auburn6..I'm gonna check fuel pressure and rule out fuel pump. My box under drivers seat blinked 6 times pause 6 more...checked it out and itwas temp sensor problem?? Might have something to do with?? Ive been reading about igniter problems and symptoms are th same...cool down to restart...it just dies a block away frome your house....and it will fireup after you walk back home for help. still gonna check fuel pressure and go from there. The igniter symptoms got worse after I got new filter...

sktex · February 2010

Fuel pressure is ok... the regulator is ok.....has to be the igniter...

auburn6 · February 2010

Well doesn't have to be but can be I guess. Did you drive it and watch the fuel pressure as the car lost power? The same goes for did you drive it with the air intake hose off and did it still die out? I remember you said that you would idle all day but once you started down the street it would stop running but that it would start back up. After how long did it take before it would start up?

Sorry for all the questions just trying to see if your headed in the right direction. After cars sit for a while things tend to freeze up such as vacuum advances, fuel injectors, idle air control valves and fuel can even go bad.
If the fuel pressure was checked during power loss then I would check to see if it has spark after power down if there is enough time to do so.

sktex · February 2010

I checked the fuel pressure while it was running and was 33psi/36psi and took vacuum hose off regulator after it died and it started to rise 40psi/41psi. The answer to your ?? is no..seems everything has changed since the new fuel filter...idles rough real rough now smokes smell fuel. checked a couple of plugs out yesterday right after it died and the plugs was bone dry. my ECU still blinks 6x pause 6x.. like to find a little more before buy anything cant afford real mechanic right now...... ????????????? if I'm not headed in the right direction let me know. Does the ECU tell u 1 problem at a time? ........Thanks for your replys

auburn6 · February 2010

The ECU can tell you more than one code at a time and the code 6 if I remember correctly is a engine coolant temp sensor to the ECU. 2 pin connector sensor usually located in or near the thermostat housing or the head. Not the single pin in the head under distributor area that is the temp gauge sensor. Also can get confused with the radiator coolant temp sensor so you may want to check a book or the internet for photos to make sure you have the correct one. Temp sensors can create issues I have known one to cause a car to stall when coming to a stop but not while driving. Also would cause resart problems if ECU is getting the wrong signal, thinks its cold when its hot or hot when cold as the ECU controls fuel delivery its input.

I cant think of a reason why the car seems worse after the fuel filter replacement that just doesn't make much sense. The plugs being dry is good but still nice to know if spark is available when car dies. Also makes me wonder about the injectors being clogged allowing enough fuel at idle but not off idle.

Just making sure of the complaint once again the car originally was idling great but once driving down the road would die? Or was it when coming to a stop it would die? Sorry if I am not understanding something but read back and not for sure..

The pcv valve, vacuum leak, tight valves, temp sensor and or the idle air control valve could be whats currently happening but there are test available for those components if you can get a hold of a service manual.

sktex · February 2010

Your understood when you read back...idling great...would die moving...now cant get it out of shop or down the driveway..since new filter. I was checking regulator one more time..took off return line and replaced it with longer one so I could see fuel come out...I couldn't believe it.....fuel was cloudy and had a white tint to it..I just thought I blew out those lines!!! No wonder it spits and sputters and barely fires.....Im gonna start my Superbowl party tonight...let ya know something next week...

auburn6 · February 2010

cool glad to see you have a direction to go in....enjoy your party and the game should be a great game

sktex · March 2010

If your still out there, the Honda is running great. I took the tank off and cleaned it out again and put a liner in it and a new fuel filter., and fresh gas and it fired right up. next will be the temp sensor. thanks for the help....later

auburn6 · March 2010

cool glad everything worked out

gracey1 · March 2010

My car it starts then when im driving my car will just shut off.then i wait 5 min and then it starts.Can somebody please tell me what it might be.Please!!!!!!!!!!!

sktex · March 2010

Hey gracey1 it could be fuel problems or electrical......if you read some of mine post you seen it was fuel. Ask auburn6 for some help he pointing me in the right direction.Hope it works out for ya'

nygizzle · May 2010

Hi guys, I recently bought a 1989 honda accord lxi and now it doesn't start. I already replaced, the spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery, and the coil pack and it still doesn't start. Does this mean I need to replace the distributor? And is the ignition module part of the distributor, or is it a separate part? Thank you

dextin · June 2010

I have been hearing a grinding sound coming from my engine lately, and i was looking under the hood to see if i could find the problem, i found a wheel that was sticking and as far as i can tell it is the A/C compressor, but im not 100%. I have searched for a diagram online, and have not been able to find one that labels it. It has a belt that connects to what i think is the crankshaft pulley which is connected with a belt to the alternator. my car is a 1997 Honda Accord ex V6 with a C27A4 2.7 L engine. if anyone has any advice on how to trouble shoot, or who can find a diagram that shows the lable of the A/C compressor i would appreciate it a lot. also i dont know if the two have anything in common, but a little before the noise began it started leaking oil, i changed the oil, replaced the oil filter, and it still leaks oil.

any help is much appreciated

corkscrew · June 2010

Do a search on google images to see what a compressor looks like. Sometimes they post a wiring diagram as well as one that is disassembled.
http://images.google.com/
Corkscrew

Mr_Shiftright · June 2010

Also if corkscrews excellent suggestion doesn't work, you can find the various diagrams HERE

dextin · June 2010

Thanks Mr Shiftright and Corkscrew that helped alot, i am now 100% sure that it is the A/C compressor. i looked it up some more and looked closer at the compressor and it looks like the clutch to the compressor has locked up so it wont spin, the belt was just spinning around the locked up pulley. With those diagrams i could see that luckily the belt is only for the compressor and not linked directly to the alternator like other models, because i did not like the idea of having a belt slipping on the pulley making horrible smells, and the possibility of it then breaking and knocking into other belts, i cut the belt off. so now all the noises have stopped along with the smells. i talked to some shops and they say its about $700 bucks just for the new compressor kit, plus i would have to recharge, and replace other things that come along with replacing the compressor, so after all that plus labor, everyone quoted me around $1,100. they also suggested i try a junk yard to find a compressor, but i still don't have the money for that right now. so i guess this will be a hot summer for now. thanks for everyone who replied, i appreciate you taking time from your day to help me. and if anyone has any other suggestions on fixing it i would love to hear what you think.

Mr_Shiftright · June 2010

You could try for a used compressor but if your old compressor actually seized up (you can't turn it by hand and the belt couldn't turn it) then this may not be enoug---why? Because when a compressor seizes, it often (not always but often) sends metal debris throughout the AC system, requiring that many other components be either cleaned or replaced. If you put in a used compressor and don't get all the old debris out, the second compressor will probably seize up too, soon enough.

laffytaffy1991 · June 2010

I've recently picked up a 89 accord and was told about the "issue" it has, but im not 100% sure they were honest about its defects. The engine itself seems to run fine and the electrical works, but it wont shift into gear and i was told this is because of a burnt out diode. I would like to know if anyone has any experience with this type of issue and how to go about fixing it.

Mr_Shiftright · June 2010

You mean you can't move the gear lever or you mean you can move the lever into drive but nothing happens?

If the former, you may have a simple problem of a bad brake light switch which will not release the gearshift "neutral safety" system. You can release the lever by inserting a screwdriver into a slot that should be nearby the lever.

If you mean the latter, your transmission is shifted hydraulically, not electronically, so you either have a badly adjusted or broken shift cable, no fluid in the transmission, or a bad transmission.

Anytime someone says "all it needs is a simple ____" one has to wonder why they never did it prior to sale.

dextin · June 2010

I recently bought a 1997 Accord ex, and stupid me i didn't test the horn before i bought it. i guess its just something you don't think of being a problem. Anyway, after getting it i was driving it to get safety and emissions when a person cut me off and almost clipped the front of my car, when i pushed the horn to let them know i was there because i couldn't swerve no sound came out. it still passed safety but i would like to know if there is a way to test if the horn is bad, or if i need to replace it. I have done some research but i need a diagram of the horn and where to find it or something, i have made sure all the fuzzes are good, i have checked like 5 times. any advice is wonderfully appreciated, thanks

thegraduate · June 2010

If you do end-up needing to have the horn replaced, its a relatively easy fix; fairly inexpensive too. I'm no mechanic, so I'm sorry I can't answer your direct question.

dextin · June 2010

So you do think that i could do it myself? Im pretty handy with a wrench, haha, but i have a brother and brother in law who love to help with any auto repair, so i just need to know how about diagnosing the problem and first off where to find the dang horn.

Honda Accord (1976-1989) Maintenance & Repair

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