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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I was not sure I should post links on the forum, but it's a lot easier than trying to explain all the possible causes for the overheating problem. If you don't approve, let me know. :D
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Not a problem at all - we welcome all sources of helpful information. :)

    Did you find the eggnog?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Great! That web site has a lot of very useful information on older Accords, and the common problems associated with them. Sometimes I think maybe I should have kept my old Accord, because with all this information, I could have kept it running forever.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    I wish I still had my '94. Someone is driving and enjoying it today. :cry:
  • corey3corey3 Member Posts: 1
    My 1993 Is Having Problems Starting, But Only Occasionally. Usually It Starts Fine, But Once In A While When I Turn The Key, Nothing Happens, I Have No Dash Lights, No Clock Or Dome Light, Nothing--completely Dead. Yesterday This Happened And I Had Put The Key In And Turned Part Of The Way. The Lights Came On But When I Shut The Door, Everything Died. I Opened The Door And Slammed It Again And Averything Came Back On And It Started As Normal. Any Thoughts?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    First thing to check would be loose or corroded battery cables or connections (be sure to check both ends of the ground cable). If that is not the problem, go to Autozone and get the battery/charging system checked. Good luck
  • buckwild1buckwild1 Member Posts: 2
    Front end is making a grinding noise when I turn sharp left or right. Right axle and bearing have been replaced. If I turn in a parking spot a little fast or put a heavy load on the front, it makes the noise. If I do sharp circles , with gas pressed, it sounds like metal on metal, when I let off gas, the noise reduces, but still hear it. It is not a constant noise, you can tell it is affected by something turning, it would be like click, click, click, except it is a rubbing noise.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I'm no mechanic, but could it be the CV joint?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Have you checked the brake pads lately?

    Also, the tin shield behind the brake rotor may be bent and is rubbing the rotor. It's not uncommon to bend that thin shield when removing and lowering a tire. The shield may also be very rusty. I had scraping on my 88 Accord, and after chasing the noise for a while, I found the shield had swelled up from rust in an area behind the rotor. I had to remove the rotor to get to the rusty area.

    Mrbill
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I've also heard of rocks (or other debris) getting lodged between the rotor and dust shield.
    Does it sound like something is turning while rubbing (changes with speed) or does it sound the same, regardless of speed? The ball joints and suspension bushings are famous for making scrunching sounds, especially when it's cold. The ball joint/bushing noises will go away in the summer, and return every winter. If I would go over a speed bump with my 92 Accord it would make a sort of "fart" sound, but only when the temperature was below 45 degrees, which is not very often here in the deeeep South.
  • buckwild1buckwild1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the comments. I will check the dust shield. It is not a consistent rubbing. It varies with speed, the faster, the more rubs and you have to turn sharp. I also hear the popping in cold weather, but it has done that for a few yeas. I am going to take it in for an alignment and see if they notice anything, I know it is pulling to one side.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    You can also check for loose suspension components by jacking the wheel up and grabbing the wheel (top and bottom and front and back) and pushing and pulling on it. The old phrase "kick the tires" was to check for loose suspension.
  • willan1willan1 Member Posts: 3
    My car fans work when a/c is on and when car is shut off after driving but will not work at idle. Once I put the heat on the temperture gauge goes back to normal. Please help!
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    Hope this link helps:

    http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html#Solutions

    Regards
    Corkscrew
  • rustycrustyc Member Posts: 1
    can someone help me ? I need to remove the drivers side interior door panel. Screws are all out and the panel is pulled away from the door . Only thing holding the panel on is the latch . Opened the latch and removed the screw behind it, but it seems as if the latch is part of the cover . Is there something I am supposed to do to dissconect the latch from the door linkage? Any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated ! Thanks
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    There is a rod connected to the latch that has to be disconnected. There is a plastic clip that holds the rod on where it is attached. Do not break the plastic clip, because the rod will easily come out without it. If you can open the window glass, try to access the rod from outside the door. It will give you a better view behind the door panel. Good luck
  • willan1willan1 Member Posts: 3
    My 1990 accord brake lights only work on one side. The parking lights work but that same side is dimmer than the other. Also If I have the headlights on the cruise control will not work. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated.
  • willan1willan1 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the quick response. I went to the link but it doesnt give my scenario. Any other suggestions. Also do you know where the temperature fan relay is located? I'm thinking that since the fans are working while a'/c is on and when car is turned off after driving that it has to be something simple like a relay.Thanks again
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    Click on the link again and read " the importance of bleeding", Symptom: fan won't run while engine is on.

    Corkscrew
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Pull your bulbs, and check the filaments.
  • 91accord191accord1 Member Posts: 4
    91 starts runs "ok" when temp kicks up then idle goes down and runs rough and wont accept fuel coaxing. if I can get it to 2000 rpms it runs great but if I let off the gas it dies out and I have to wait for it to cool down again and start over. fuel pump, filter, flow all seem alright. decent spark. what the heck! also no check engine light. :confuse:
  • 91accord191accord1 Member Posts: 4
    does it have a hitch and wiring? I used to work at U haul and the wiring box (4 to 3 wire converters) would sometimes go bad and do funny things to cars ie. turn signals come on w/ headlights, dome lights won't turn off etc. if you find one wired in then removal should fix problem right away.
  • vvaldez1vvaldez1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone,
    This is my first posting. What is the procedure to replace the instrument cluster for a 92 accord? without breaking the trimming.
    I'll appreciate your response, Thanks
  • miyage007miyage007 Member Posts: 5
    Just a quick question, Is there a cabin air filter in 1990 Ex model? Where is it and how do I access it? Thanks to you all !!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    No, there is no cabin filter. I think cabin filters started in 6th generation in (98).
  • turkey13turkey13 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 91 Accord that after warm stumbles under low rpms 1000-2500. Then it will clear up. If you hold the brake while accelerating. It will just sputter and not rev-up. You can give the car gas slowly and it will work in all rpm ranges. But soon as you put any sudden strain on the motor it will sputter till it hits 2500 rpm. I have checked several things; The EGR ports blocked was the first thing. My dad cleaned them, so I didn’t get to see them. That didn’t work. Rotor button. Cap, I just changed the plug wires about 1-1/2 years ago. Plugs look to be firing great. I have 185 compression on three cyl and 135 on one cylinder. I have checked several sensors. My check engine light does not come on. I checked for codes and got none. Please help. I can fix it, if I can find out what it is… Thanks
  • selectrickselectrick Member Posts: 2
    Had to boost my 1991 Honda Accord yesterday and couldn't figure out what I left on, but then today I noticed that a fan was running 3 hours after the engine was shut down in freezing temps. I'm not sure which fan is what, but it is the fan on the passenger side of the engine. Is that a rad cooling fan or is that the condenser cooling fan? ( I'm very green on the subject but from looking at electrical drawings I noticed there are both rad fan and condenser fan in there and there's 2 fans at the front where the rad is) What's what ? Can anyone enlighten me? Is it a sensor or a temp switch possibly? Thanx from a greenhorn! Lol!!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    From my limited experience, it sounds like your fan timer has gone kaput. You may have to read through a lot of unrelated information, but this link may help you. Good luck
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html#Fantimer
  • astorastor Member Posts: 30
    I got a quote of $570.00 from an independent Honda shop for a timing belt replacement. It includes replacing the Timing belt; Balancer belt, water pump, water pump seal, camshaft seal, crankshaft seal, Balance shaft seal; oil pump "o" seal; Alternator drive belt and power steering belt. He uses Honda genuine parts. Is this price reasonable.

    Thanks.
  • engineerscottengineerscott Member Posts: 1
    I have a '92 that seems to be having alternator issues. While driving down the road I notice the lights getting brighter and then dimmer. Also the heater fan will increase and decrease in RPM's. This is not a difficult fix I am sure but I do not want to throw parts at it until it fixed. Anyone have a direction for me to go here?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Sounds like a new alternator is in your future.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    An auto parts store (Autozone) may be able to test the alternator for you, just in case. I'm pretty sure their test equipment can tell you if the alternator is charging too much, or not enough. Good luck
  • gregsurfdoggregsurfdog Member Posts: 3
    What ended up being the problem with your 93 accord and the front oil leak? I have a 93 accord with @ 151,000 miles on it and I am having the same issue. I know this was a while back, but any info would help, thanks
  • gregsurfdoggregsurfdog Member Posts: 3
    I have a 93 accord with @ 151,000 miles and I am noticing some small oil drips on my drive way near the front of the car. It is not just one spot, it seems to be several small spots........any suggestions on what it could be?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    only you will be able to tell. Clean off the engine and wipe it down as oil will travel around, and then start to watch it to see where the oil appears to be coming from.
  • twa727twa727 Member Posts: 22
    Hey guys,

    As I approach 200K on my '93, I'm looking at a timing belt replacement.

    I've never had to pay for one myself--what's to be expected for a '93 Accord?

    Thanks in advance for any help. :)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Your 1993 Accord should be similar to my 1996 Accord (both are the 2.2L, same design). I got two quotes - one was $720, the other was $475. Both included having the water pump replaced as well (you should have this done at the same time).
  • twa727twa727 Member Posts: 22
    Thanks, there's a Honda specific shop not too far away--I'm going to get a quote from them. I know about the water pump, should always be done with the timing belt.

    The Honda dealership in Leesburg quoted my replacement @ $950! :mad:

    Problem is, I do not know when the belt was replaced last, but the serp. was replaced recently, so they might have done them at the same time. In either case, it's just safe to do it now so it dosen't break on me down the road.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    That's true about being safe rather than sorry, especially if the rest of the car is worth keeping awhile (in good shape).

    I've got 178k mi on mine, and I drive it several days a week.

    Keep shopping around - I'm in Alabama, but I'd think you could get a timing belt done ANYWHERE in the country for less than $600, if not necessarily $475 (for just the belt, they quoted $400, and said they'd do the water pump for the price of the pump - no extra labor).
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    have a 93 accord with 151,000 miles and I am noticing some small oil drips on my drive way near the front of the car. It is not just one spot, it seems to be several small spots........any suggestions on what it could be?

    I am hoping I am wrong, but I think its the counter balance shaft seals. The counterbalance shaft galley is pressurized by the oil and the oil pump. When those seals fail, the car drips oil out of the the front. When those seals fail catastrophically, it pumps all of the oil out of the car onto the ground in a Valdez type puddle (don't ask me how I know :sick: ). The upside is if you need a timing belt service, this would be a good time, as they can replace those seals at the same time saving you some labor.

    edit - I think mine did it at 140k but I have to go back and look.
  • twa727twa727 Member Posts: 22
    Hey everyone...again.

    I've got a rust spot on my Accord's right rear fender. It is a small spot--maybe 1/2" in diameter. If I go to a body shop to get that fixed, will they paint it? I'd like to have it look as close to the original paint color as possible. Has anyone had experience with this before??

    Thanks,

    Matt
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Is the rust spot just on the surface, or is there a hole? However the rust spot is repaired, yes, they will paint it. There isn't any other way of fixing rust without applying paint, even if you did it with a bottle of touch-up paint. It can be tricky to match the factory color, but an experienced body shop will know how to handle it. Even a small 1/2" repair may turn into a whole panel paint job if there are issues with the paint match.

    However severe the rust is/isn't, don't expect any type of warranty on the repair work.

    Mrbill
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    Honda is probably going to be able to provide you with a touch-up pen or applicator ($5-10) that best matches the original color (code on the door jam) of the fender. However, because the vehicle is old, it's likely the color faded and a pen or applicator isn't going to be a perfect match.

    But you are talking 90-93 right?

    Matt, if it were me, for a 1/2" spot, i'd probably apply some Rustoleum or other chemical neutralizer to just the affected area, then lightly sand the resultant area and apply the paint I got from Honda. I admit to not knowing much about painting and touch-up and such, but to have someone shoot the entire fender????

    I've had hondas for years, and touchup has worked for me...I'd be saving that $$$ you'd pay a paint shop to cover replacing a major part or unexpected service.
  • twa727twa727 Member Posts: 22
    Thanks for your insight guys.

    I'm going to go to a local body shop here and see what they quote me.If it's too much I'll try the rustoleum idea with the touch-up paint.

    Thanks again!
  • mcreconlyfemcreconlyfe Member Posts: 1
    1993 Accord 10 Anv Ed
    198,000 mi

    I am having a problem with the electrical system on my 1993 Accord 10th anv ed. While driving or after i have been driving for sometime, even short distances at times, the electrical system will start to fail. All of the gauges will cut off and power to the engine will severly diminish. When it happens if I try to give it gas the engine will sputter. Nothing else goes out except for the gauges, but the headlights,interior lights,etc will go dim. I changed the battery two days ago and the problem is still occuring. Was told that it could be the alternator. Is there any advice or suggestions that anyone can help me with?
  • 91accord191accord1 Member Posts: 4
    this could be your belt slipping or your alternator going bad (or worse) ;) . use a voltage tester and with the car turned off it should read 12v dc at the battery terminals and then with the car running, it should read 13.5 to 14v dc. try it when it's cold and when it's warmed up.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Click on this link, and scroll down the page to the symptoms of your problem. I would guess either alternator, igniter, or distributor. Good luck
    http://techauto.tripod.com/
  • twa727twa727 Member Posts: 22
    Hey guys, I've got a silly question for you.

    I've got a 93 Accord with the auto transmission. When @ 60 MPH, the motor turns over at 2400 or so RPM. 65 is about 2600 RPM, and 70 MPH takes 3000 RPM.

    From those of you with other accords in this generation, is this a normal number? It seems high to me. Thanks in advance for any input!
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    That is practically identical to my 1996 Accord, also with the 2.2L 4-cyl.

    2350-60mph
    2600-65mph
    2850-70mph

    Don't sweat it, it's quite normal.
  • twa727twa727 Member Posts: 22
    Thanks!

    It just seemed a bit high compared to some other cars I've driven. Thanks for the confirmation. :)
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