Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

1222325272842

Comments

  • deatt12deatt12 Member Posts: 3
    Hello. I'm new here and this seems to be a place of knowledgeable people. :)

    Man I bought my first freaking car about 6 months ago: 1990 Honda Accord LX. It sucked when i first got it. It wouldn't start properly without a bit of starter fluid and eventually i did a lot to the car and got it running perfectly! No problems after i replaced the fuel pump and the main relay.

    However that was two months ago. Now my car is having a similar problem starting and stuff....it's really aggravating me because everyone tells me something different and I've ended up replacing two coolant sensors, my entire distributor (which includes the igniter), and Jesus as my witness the damn thing still has trouble starting...however I've made a discovery in the past few days...

    My fuel pump has trouble receiving power...sometimes it will get power and sometimes it won't...now something else is strange as well...my "S" light will start blinking and my check engine light will appear...when this happens i have observed that my fuel pump has stopped receiving power...It's like me LOL i just go when i feel like it!

    Anyway, the other thing wrong with my car is that my windows continue to receive power almost 15 mins after i turn the car off and remove the keys from the ignition...not a problem with me, but it might lead to something bad down the road...which is why i mention it.

    If anyone could help me, it would be greatly appreciated, because i start college in July and without a car i can't make the 30 minute drive out there!! :(

    THANK YOU!!
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Anyway, the other thing wrong with my car is that my windows continue to receive power almost 15 mins after i turn the car off and remove the keys from the ignition...not a problem with me, but it might lead to something bad down the road...which is why i mention it.

    Actually, this isn't anything wrong, but rather a feature. For example, if you are sitting in a parking lot waiting on someone to come to your car (picking someone up) and you turn the car off, you can still roll down the windows if it gets stuffy after a few minutes. Once you open one of the doors, this will no longer work until you turn the key back to the "ON" position and back off again.

    I am no mechanic, so I'm not much help on the other issues with your car, but after my mom having a Gen IV Accord like yours (hers was a '93 EX), and me having a Gen V ('96) and Gen VII ('06) Accord that has the same feature, even allowing you to open the moonroof in my EX, I know that this isn't a problem at all, and you shouldn't fret this thing!

    Good luck with your other issues. These cars are pretty great as far as I'm concerned.

    TheGraduate
  • deatt12deatt12 Member Posts: 3
    Well that would be cool and all if that was a feature but i can still open the door and the windows will still work...lol but thanks for trying! :)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Well, it may have been different on the earlier models, I just know my '96 does the same thing pretty much (minus the doors opening). It shouldn't hurt anything.

    I'm curious to know if the "door open" indicator lights work for each door on the dashboard, meaning, if all four doors are open, do all 4 lights illuminate in the pictogram?
  • deatt12deatt12 Member Posts: 3
    actually on mine, no....only the first door you opened works
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The link below has a wealth of information on 4th gen Accords (90-93). It includes some troubleshooting for the "S" light, as well as for the main relay/fuel pump issue. If I were you, I would keep this link for future reference. To find the information on the "S" light you have to click on the transmission link (top left). Good luck.
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/
  • tom1sharon2tom1sharon2 Member Posts: 40
    IF I read your post correctly, you have a problem with that loose crankshaft pulley. My 93 has a (one piece?) dual row belt pulley, so I'm not sure what you mean when you say the the large and small sections are rotating independently of each other.

    In any case, you should NOT be able to rotate the crankshaft pulley without turning the crankshaft also. If you are able to do so, the pulley bolt has probably loosened and the square keeper pin (key) has either slipped out of place or broken.

    Be aware that the same bolt and square pin that keeps the crankshaft pulley from spinning also holds the timing belt pulley in place. If that moves, you could end up with some serious valve train damage.

    Again, IF I read your statements correctly, you need to fix that loose pulley before you go any farther with your other problems.

    Good luck.
  • keith04102keith04102 Member Posts: 3
    Hello All,
    I have a 1991 Accord Wagon with 200k miles. The car is not very attractive but is in pretty decent shape with the exception of an oil leak. In the morning there are two small puddles(2inX2in) under the front end kinda by each tire. When I start the car after sitting it smokes for a few minutes then seems to be fine, the smoke smells oil-ish.
    I want to keep the car on the road.. it still gets awesome gas mileage and its perfect to haul my Kayaks around on.
    I am wondering about swapping out the engine or getting the gaskets done.. I am also wondering what engines/years are compatible with this car..Its a 4cyl/5speed.. NOT a VTECK.
    Any advise,suggestions, or info would be greatly appreciated. You can probably tell that Im not very familiar with mechanics and would like to have an idea before I go to get an estimate.
    Thanks!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The only repair that makes sense given the car and condition would be to fix the oil leaks. If they are leaking onto the exhaust pipes this is probably a good sign, in that the oil leak is up top, not a crankshaft seal. If you mean that the oil smoke is coming out the tail pipe, not smoking off the exhaust header, that's not so good, but is probably just normal engine wear at this high mileage.

    Those leaks sound like they are getting serious however--that's a big drip.

    If you have a massive crankshaft leak in front (behind the front pulley), that's fixable but if you have a huge rear main seal leak, that could be very expensive, and on an old engine like yours not a good sign of internal condition.

    So the advice is---locate the leaks precisely, on a lift, steaming the engine---WHATEVER, then make a decision based on this hard data. How much oil are you burning? That would also be a factor in what to do.

    I don't think it ever makes sense to do an engine swap in a beat up old car. A used engine from a wrecker makes more sense, or just go buy another old Honda.
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    yep, somehow the big pulley came off...So I replaced it...alterantor working fine!!! and AC too.

    thank you all!
  • keith04102keith04102 Member Posts: 3
    How do I figure out what engine is actually in my car? F20a? F22b? F22A6? F22a4? its a 1991 Accord non vtec 4cyl original factory engine..is it written on the engine somewhere? Im confused :)
    Thanks!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    No 91 Accord had Vtec. Those engines were not available until 94. Which engine your 91 has, depends on which model you have.
    1991 Accord DX/LX: 2.2L(2156cc) F22A1, MPFI, SOHC 16-valve (single exhaust manifold)
    1991 Accord EX: 2.2L(2156cc), F22A4, MPFI, SOHC 16-valve (dual exhaust manifold)
    1991 Accord SE: 2.2L(2156cc), F22A6, MPFI, SOHC 16-valve (dual intake manifold)
  • keith04102keith04102 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks Elroy.. thats very helpful.. im a F22a4!
    There are a couple on Tigger.. Assuming that this would be a simple bolt in replacement (should I choose to do it), in general terms, about how much would it cost to have the labor done at a local shop (not a honda dealer)? Anybody have a rough idea? :blush:
  • lil_llama89lil_llama89 Member Posts: 5
    hi my timing belt just went out on my 1990 honda accord and was left stranded on the highway, the engine was smoking when i stopped it, is there anyway i can know if the engine was a non-interference engine or an interference engine? ive been looking around on the web and got both answers, some say that hondas never made non-interference engines and then i got some that said almost all honda's are non-interference engines which is the reason they run so long, so im confused as to if i just need to go get a new car completely or if i can just have the car towed and have the timing belt fixed
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    How do you know the timing belt broke? A smoking engine would not be a symptom of that.

    At any rate, yes it's an interference engine, at least by my charts.

    Even if it is interference fit, that doesn't mean you need a whole new engine.

    You need to calm down and get some good advice on a)what exactly happened and b) what your alternatives are. You might have overheated and not broken the belt, or if you broke it, maybe you only bent a few valves and you can get by with a rebuilt cylinder head.
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    What color was the smoke?
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi all

    I bought y 93' Accord EX about 2 yrs ago with the odometer reading 135000.
    The prior owner said it stopped working when she had it. The true odometer reading on my car has to over 165000? Can the true reading of the engine odometer ever be found? When I first bought the car it performed better and faster and now the engine and ABS light goes on and has a sluggish per- formance. I was told the Accord engines can run for a very long time. How can I bring back some life into my car? Tune up, fuel pressure gauge check, etc?

    Thanks
    jim
  • matador51matador51 Member Posts: 17
    Has anyone used the turtle Wax product called Ice ( total interior care) on the cars leather and vinyl interior.

    I have 2008 Accord V6 automatic Accord with the black leather seats and
    I assume black vinyl dash.

    Some people use the McGuires Gold product but I think that is only for leather.

    Thanks for the feedback.
  • lil_llama89lil_llama89 Member Posts: 5
    the smoke was grey
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I would find out what codes are stored in the computer. That might give you some idea why the performance has dropped. Your car is OBDl, so the procedure for getting the codes is different from OBDll. This link describes how to get the codes on your car. Good luck
    http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelpkeefe/HowTo_Codes.htm
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    Yes, yours is an interference engine. A good mechanic can tell fairly quickly if the belt is broken. However it will take more labor to determine the extent of the damage. Only you can decide how far you are willing to go if, in fact, the belt is broken.
    Did you have any warning such as low oil presssure or engine running hot before the incident?
    Blue smoke is burning oil and white to grey smoke is anti freeze. I may be wrong here but I'm leaning towards a blown head gasket.
  • exactlyexactly Member Posts: 1
    91 accord same no start problem how do i test relay
  • rcraddockrcraddock Member Posts: 1
    I too am having the same problem.. I'm not sure whats wrong... I'm not getting any fuel pressure, or spark, the car is turning over, I replaced the main relay, and still no luck, I even tested the throtle positioning sensor with the key on to see if the ECU was getting power and it was working.

    I tested the ignition, nothing wrong there.. but there is something going on... No fuel pump, and no spark I checked out the main relay and it is fine, I also tried another out of a running car, what do I do next...

    If anyone knows anything please help, thanks, ronn. email me lv_techs at yahoodotcom
  • rws800rws800 Member Posts: 4
    I too have a civil with75K & was just replacing plugs, filters etc and asked about the oxygen sensor ( I believe that's the correct term) It's located or rather two of them - when you open hood one is at the exhaust manafold & has a wire leading out of it to the computer. The other one is supposed to be after the catylic converter. They were very costly , like $150 for one and $80 or so for the other. The guy at Advanced auto asked if I was having the engine light coming on or bad engine performance. And no, so why change it and he said the maintence was 120k miles. These sensors feed the computer info on fuel burning etc and if they are onthe blink you will have wrong imput and the computer keeps trying to adjust the fuel/air mixture. Ask some people at the Honda garage. If you do have to change them out you need a torch to heat the metal where they are located to expand the metal and get them out. Try put some antiseize on the new threads.
    Hope this helps. Check a maintance type book Haynes etc.
  • aspringaspring Member Posts: 6
    I have a Honda Accord 1993. Recently I started to have a problem with the car. The card does not start. When jumpstart the battery, it works fine. So I told myself, it has to be from the battery.

    I went to AutoZone, and bought a new battery. Next day, the car did not start..wow that was a pain. I did jumpstart the battery, and the car starts fine. For the next two weeks, I never had a problem and the car starts without a problem.

    Recently, last two days I could not start the car. However, when I jumpstart the battery the car starts fine...what is the problem? is it the starter, the fuse,...? please advice. Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Did you have autozone load test your old alternator and battery before buying a new battery? Most autochains will do that for free.

    Since your car starts when jumped, that usually means your battery is discharged. 'WHY' it is discharged, is the real question. If it was discharged because the battery had a bad cell, then replacing the battery would fix the problem. However, if the reason the battery had low voltage was because the alternator is bad and isn't charging the battery back up, then you replaced the wrong part. You might also have corrosion on your battery terminals or they are loose, but I'm assuming you would have fixed any corrosion when putting a new battery in.

    I'd take it back to AutoZone, and have them do a load test on your car. They'll roll out a tester, and hook it up to your battery and alternator. They can then put a resistive load on it, and check that your alternator is putting out the right voltage and maximum current, and they will also check that your battery can hold the voltage.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    You should have had Autozone test the old battery first. Your car's electrical system could be draining the battery, or you could have a main relay problem. Read this link, and try to diagnose the cause.
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html

    The important thing is to find the cause, and test the suspected parts. Getting into a guessing game, can become very expensive. Good luck, in your quest for truth. :)
  • tom1sharon2tom1sharon2 Member Posts: 40
    In addition to the previous advise, check your battery cables.

    A faulty battery cable will often (typically in my experience) exhibit the same symptoms as a weak battery during the start cycle, sometimes even requiring a jump start, but won't necessarily have an obvious noticeable effect on the car's charging / electrical system once it is running. If your warning light is not illuminating when the car is running and you have a good battery when attempting to start, this should be at the top of the list of things to check.

    Checking for voltage drop through the cables is simple if you have a mutimeter or perhaps Autozone will do this when they check the alternator (or maybe not ,I don't know).

    For a quick check, see if a cable gets warm or hot to the touch the next time you have trouble starting it
  • aspringaspring Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the advice.

    I went back to Autozone. They tested the new battery and alternator. Both are fine. They did not not know what still cause this, as the problem still exist. The battery location seems fine along with the connections (nothing loose).

    So the problem is not from the alternator, could be the Starter?
  • aspringaspring Member Posts: 6
    Of course, I tested the old battery before replacing it. They say it is bad. But having a new battery did not fix the problem.

    I went back to Autozone. They tested the new battery and alternator. Both are fine. They did not know what still cause this, as the problem still exist. The battery location seems fine along with the connections (nothing loose).

    So the problem is not from the alternator, could be the Starter? and what do you mean by main relay?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Unlikely the starter, remotely possible, but I doubt it.

    The only thing you are doing when 'jumping' the vehicle, is connecting up a known battery of working voltage to your battery. If the starter had a problem, which battery is connected doesn't matter.

    Since you know you have a good battery and alternator, the next thing to eliminate is whether something is draining down your battery. If you have a charged good battery, and lights are left on (or something is draining down the battery), then you will end up with a 'discharged' good battery. When you try to start, there isn't enough voltage and you get the clicking. You come along and jump it, give it the right voltage, and the car starts up.

    The way to figure this out, is to first confirm first that something is draining down the battery. With a digital voltmeter, measure and record the voltage on the battery after you stop the car. (Should be in the 13.2-14.2 volt range) (Obviously check to make sure NOTHING is on ...... inside lights, outside lights, things plugged into the power outlets, etc). Measure the voltage every hour for a number of hours.

    If you are finding the voltage dropping, then either the battery is bad (which you verified that it wasn't), or something is drawing current. If you disconnect the positive lead and put a test light in series, if the light is on then something is drawing current.

    Depending now on your diagnostic skills (and if you have an electrical schematic for your vehicle), you can start pulling fuses to see if you can get the light to go out. If the light goes out with a fuse pull, then you know that something on that circuit is drawing power.

    I have seen vehicles with a light on in the trunk (bad switch causing light on), and a bad switch on power seat (leaving motor trying to adjust), bad relay causing radiator fan to stay on, etc. Just last month my daughter left the inside lights turned on during the day (couldn't see that it was lit).
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Sounds like you (or someone) needs to do some investigation into this matter. Here's a troubleshooting link, if you want to check it out. Good luck.
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html
  • aspringaspring Member Posts: 6
    Your logic make sense.

    I opened the hood today and spent sometime looking into the connections. I saw the wire that connects the starter to the battery really loose. So I cliped it firmly. I will see if this will fix the problem...if not, I will try other possibilities.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    That will do it. That has to be a really tight connection.

    How could that be loose, if you had the battery checked at autoparts store? They would have tightened it.....
  • readingteacherreadingteacher Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I need some help with a problem I have with my 1993 Honda Accord, 142,000 miles. Over the past several months, my car has been
    jumping/hesitating/stuttering. Initially, it happened so rarely I thought I had gone over something on the road. It happened more frequently, I started to pay attention. It felt as though I had driven over speed bumps. The car would lose power, stutter/jump several times and then everything would go back to normal. These events were sporadic. Never happened on acceleration or deceleration, but occurred when cruising (40-50 mph).
    I took the car to the mechanics who have worked with my car for years. They all said, “sounds like spark plug problem”. They found the engine gasket needed replacing, oil in the spark plug wells- I guess as a result of the gasket problem- and wires to the distributor old and cracked. I paid the $$$, drove the car for a couple of days and the problem was not fixed. Back to the mechanic. Faulty distributor wires… which they replaced. Problem still not fixed. Right now this occurs on a daily basis. The car will develop a throaty growl, hesitate a little, then back to normal.
    I have been thinking back as to when I started to notice this, as my old Honda is a great driving car. They had replaced all my belts some months ago and I think it was after this that I began to notice this problem.
    I would appreciate any suggestions or advice anyone has.
    Sincerely
    Anne
  • aspringaspring Member Posts: 6
    I am not sure how it was loose...I will see if the problem from this wire. I hope this will fix it, otherwise I will write again and ask. Thanks for all your help.
  • xhortaxhorta Member Posts: 2
    hi, i'm totally new at this and not very mechanicly savy. but from reading different posts on this site i know there is alot of good help here from good people. i replaced both belts, power steering belt, and ac and alternator, which use the same one. when starting the car, before changing the belts, the belts would make squeeking sound. well, the ac belt would make sound when ac was turned on, would last for about 5 to 7 seconds then stop. i decided to replace with new belts. no noise for the first test drive. following day, it became worse than before replacing belts. only does it when starting car and initially turning on ac. i thought i adjusted the alternator as high as possible to keep an adequate tension. is there another area where the tension of the belts can be adjusted?? is there an actual tensioner device on the car i don't know about? how can i tighten the belts?? Thanks in advance.
  • aspringaspring Member Posts: 6
    It seems that it is not from the cable.

    I did not drive the car for two days. This morning, the car did not start, there was not even any sound. I noticed that the AC knob was on; could the reason be the AC is leaking some power and draining the battery...this is frustrating.

    My cosuin felt happy and kept repeating that the problem could be from the starter, and that I am not listening to him...LOL; that more frustrating.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    When the car doesn't start, and the cause is the battery is now discharged and doesn't have enough voltage to start the car, then the problem is either:
    - the battery is defective, or
    - there is something 'on' in the vehicle, which is drawing a current while the vehicle is turned off, and drawing all of the current out of the battery while it sits for two days.

    I don't remember your situation, but the first step is to have an autoparts chain test your battery and alternator under load, which they'll do for free. The battery needs to be able to hold the power and deliver it when needed. The purpose of the alternator is to 'fill' the battery back up.

    So if we assume your battery an alternator are okay (you really do need to verify that first), then your battery would be fully charged when you turn it off. You can verify that by measuring with a digital voltmeter, should be at least 13.0 volts. If you battery then is drawn down when you try to start (test with a voltemeter, and less than say 12 volts), then something is drawing down. By the way, you can buy digital voltmeters relatively cheaply at an autoparts store or radio shack, among other places.

    The way to find what is drawing down your battery takes some trial and elimination, and is helpful if you have electrical schematics. If you disconnect the + cable from the battery, and put a test light (can be purchased at autoparts) from the +cable to the +battery terminal....if the light is on then something is wanting to draw current. You can start pulling the fuses, to help figure out whether it's something on that circuit or not. If this is beyond your capabilities, then take it to a shop who has the background to troubleshoot electrical problems.

    I've seen things on like:
    - trunk lights not turning off
    - power seat with a defective switch, leaving power to the motor
    - defective aftermarket alarms
    - defective engine computers
    - defective diodes in the alternator (won't find this via fuse, but the alternator test will find this)
    - defective door switch, leaving the inside lights on
    - my daughter leaving the dome light on :)
    - defective power window switch
    - defective relay, leaving circuits powered when the key was off

    Good luck
  • 94shadow94shadow Member Posts: 31
    Hello,

    I have a 92 Honda Accord and my D4 light doesn't come on when I put the gear shift in D4, all the rest of the shifting lights comes on.
    When the gear shift is in D4, the A/T shifts from 1st gear to 4th gear with a clunk. No in between gears. What could be the problem?
    Everything else works fine.
    Hope to hear from someone or anyone for this problem.
    Thanks,
    94shadow
  • 94shadow94shadow Member Posts: 31
    I posted a message earlier but it doesn't make any sense.
    I'll try again...

    Anyway, while stopped with my auto trans in D4, on acceleration,
    the transmission shifts from 1st. to 4th gear.
    Also the D4 light doesn't come on at all.
    While cruising, and I press the gas pedal, the only gear the A/T goes into is 1st gear.
    I am wondering what happened to my 2nd and 3rd gear on my car.
    Thanks,
    Hope this makes sense.
    94shadow
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    When the shift lever is in Park, is the D4 light on, or blinking? If the D4 light is on steady, while the shift lever is in Park, chances are your transmission computer has taken a dump on you. If the D4 light is blinking while the shift lever is in Park, the computer has stored a code, that will give you some idea where to look for the problem. Here is a link describing how to retrieve the codes. Good luck.
    http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelpkeefe/HowTo_Codes.htm
  • 94shadow94shadow Member Posts: 31
    elroy5,

    Thanks for your info. and pictures, it's a big help.

    My D4 shift indicator light does not come on at all.
    My car has only 1st and 4th gears.
    I tried checking with the service check connecter (P2) but nothing blinks on the the instrument panel.

    94shadow
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi

    I'm having the same problem, my D4 light starts blinking and then goes away. feels like I'm driving in 1st gear, slow. This happens once in a while not all the time. Is this expensive to fix? Is it a major transmission job?
    Thanks
    Jim
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If the light does not come on at all, it could still be the computer, the position switch (next to the shifter) or something on the tranny itself. If you could see under the car, maybe you could determine wether or not the shift cable going to the transmission is actually moving. Some testing would have to be done to find the root of the problem. Some transmission shops will run a diagnostic for you free of charge so maybe that would be a logical next step.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    cybercool,
    If your D4 light starts blinking and the transmission acting up, especially when it's hot inside the car, I suspect your transmission computer. The computer is located under the carpet on the passenger side front. Peel the carpet back from under the dash, disconnect the computer, and open it up. You will probably find dark spots on the circuit boards where the capacitors have leaked on them. If the computer is the problem, I would try to find a used one or repair the old one. A new computer would cost over $500. :surprise:
  • 94shadow94shadow Member Posts: 31
    Hello again,
    I checked my car with service check connector and found a
    flashing D4 trans indicator light.
    The D4 indicator light blinked (1) long and (5) short blinks.
    I checked the D4 indicator light 3 times to be sure.
    How do you decipher the flashes.
    Hope to hear from someone on what the indicator light flashes mean.

    94shadow
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Code 15= Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor. Sorry, don't know exactly where it is located on your transmission. Do you have a service/repair manual? Could be #16 in this illustration
    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=1992&catcgry3=4DR%20EX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=AT%20%20%20- %20%20%20RIGHT%20SIDE%20COVER&vinsrch=null
  • 94shadow94shadow Member Posts: 31
    Thanks a lot for all your help elroy5.
    Yes, I have a repair manual and I'll look for the sensor in the manual.
    I'll keep everyone posted on the outcome.
    Cannot work on the car for a few days so it might be awhile for me to post the outcome.
    Thanks a lot,
    94shadow
  • twa727twa727 Member Posts: 22
    Hey guys, it has been a while but I still have a question about my A/C system.

    In a previous post, I described a chirp that occurs ONLY when the A/C is on. There is a click in the dash, and then there is an audible chirp sound from the engine compartment. It is also accompanied with a little jerk (that can be felt inside the cabin, and accompanied by a small, short decrease in RPM) from the engine.

    I had the serp. belts replaced a month ago, but the squeak still continues. Could the belt be on too tight/too loose? Could there be a problem with the A/C pulley or something else inside the unit? Thanks again for any help.
Sign In or Register to comment.