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Comments
#1 on cylinder cap is facing you as you stand in front of the car.
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/aa010301a.htm
91 Accura 132 with 2 wheel drive runs fine and it has100K miles so I wanted to replace the spark plugs. I changed plug in cylinder 1 and oil was in the sleeve. I ran engine a 3 or 4 revolutions without the plug attempting to eject the oil. I installed new plug and old plug wire. I removed plug in cylinder 2 and it was the same as 1 with oil in the sleeve. I attempted to run the engine a few revelations but it was out of service. It cranked but did not run. Basically I changed one spark plug and messed up something. I continued the tune up but decided to get the wires rotor and the distributor cap and replaced them all.
I triple checked firing order 1342 and number 1 on the distributor cap.
I checked spark at the cap then I pulled the plugs and watched them spark.
I moved cylinder 1 from 1 to number 2 on the distributor cap changing spark ignition from power stroke to exhaust and it backfired as expected.
I could smell fuel but to be sure I added some to the tank and then tried starting fluid.
I checked vacuum at PVC port and measured a low vacuum flutter.
There was still no sign of life so I completed a compression test to see if something fell into cylinder and a valve was stuck open.
I performed four tests for each cylinder and with four revolutions each test.
Cylinder 1 was 125, 100, 125, and 100.
Cylinder 2 was 75, 90, 115, and 120.
Cylinder 3 was 75, 100, 100, and 75.
Cylinder 4 was 75, 75, 100, and 100.
I thought that was reasonable enough to get some action but the engine was still dead.
Now lost for answers I tried the distributor timing. I marked original setting and tried several adjustments without any reaction at all.
Totally desperate for an answer to the problem I removed the valve cover and inspected the timing belt and that looks good.
4 days later and I am lost in space, clueless, and totally shot.
Thank you, Jimhandy
1.) First suspicion are the plugs. Are the spark plugs the exact correct plugs, and did you check the gap of the plug to make sure they are gapped correctly?
2.) You may have broken the spark plug wire, if you didn't take it off carefully, but you've now replaced them.
If you pull off one of the wires, and put it in one of your old sparkplugs laying on the engine with a good ground, when you crank the engine do you get a spark at the plug? This will tell you whether your distributor and wires are electrically okay. Note: does not prove that the timing is now correct since you tried adjusting the timing. If you get a spark, when you pull the plugs to check gap, check that each new plug is firing.
1) yes but I will check plugs again (I should never trust parts) the wires were wrong type and I had to return them I am thinking if the cap or rotor were wrong I would not get to see the new plugs with new wires sparking like they do.
2) yes I replaced the plugs wires cap and rotor. The new wires were handled well by me not broken and for sure.
3) did that all four new plugs with the new wires were sparking good. even so one dead cylinder should have some sign of life.
4) I marked the timing on the distributor and plus or minus a we bit it should still run.
Day six
Still going crazy.
Replaced new parts with everything as it was before I started.
Old plugs, wires, and cap. Timing back to original well marked position.
Firing order checked.
Everything back to original running order.
Except valve cover.
Not flooded,
Inspected the timing belt
No sign of life.
What else can it be now.
Thinking about removing fuel injector rail to see injectors only for lack of any other idea.
Fuel and starting fluid already established but this is crazy.
I got fuel, firing order, plug gap, visual plug spark, timing, compression, and valve clearance.
Used old and new, plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.
Twilight Zone.
I refuse to change the wiper blades because if that works I will need some mental health treatment.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html
My current problem is this,when i pree the oil pedal,accelerate,the is a humming kind of noise coming from the engine,i just spend some cash on overhauling the engine but my current mechanic says its the engine,the rods/piston in it is causing the noise...He had poure din some Friction Remover fluid in the engine,but the problem still persists..
Please advice....
Look at this picture starting lower left pin 1-2-3-4-5-6 (this is the seat belt part , not the cable that comes out of the car floor)
Measure continuity 2-3 pins and then continuity on 4-5 pins.
I don't remember now but one resistance should be 60 ohms, the other one 1 ohms
If the 1ohms is open (~mega ohms, no continuity) just jumped it with a thin wire. This happened to me and problem fixed.
hope this helps!
My ABS light has been turning on instantly when I start my car. I am thinking of taking my Honda Accord 93 to Just Brakes® and pay for their $98.99 deal. Should I tell them about my ABS light or should I wait till they complete their brake job and see if it'll solve the ABS light problem. I'm afraid if I open my mouth about it, they'll say," ABS light, that's gonna cost you big $$$$, We'll do it for a fraction of the cost at $600." I don't want them to take me for a ride. Please advise, Thanks for your help
Cyber cool
Others can chime in with more detailed, informed responses, PLEASE. :shades:
If you know you need a set of brakes anyhow, then you can try your approach....with the potential that it doesn't resolve the ABS issue. You'll get what you pay for. You want a 100 buck brake job, that's what you'll get. You want the ABS fixed so you can stop quicker in an emergency, then have them fix it while they have everything apart. It will be most convenient (for you and them) to do it while the car is up on the rack and the wheels off.
A little background: I let the car overheat too much and end result was finally a new block... after replacing most everything, including oxygen senor, two other sensors, water pump, timing belt (since mechanic was there already and car had 160K miles before replacement)... you name it, the mechanic tried to fix the overheating but not the head gasket because all tests were NOT showing that was the problem. His machinist told him he could resurface the head till the cows came home, but in his experience, the 'metal thing' (my words) inside the block had warped and car needed a new engine. So that's what he did (at cost because he was not pleased with himself for not being able to fix it the first time) Voila! Overheating problem gone and car now has almost everything new.
So, with this problem, I took car to the mechanic. Tests showed the ignition coil was bad... something with the 'resistor' test and evidence of misfire (burnt wire, etc). So replaced the coil and driving home... car was GREAT! No problems!!!! Ran like new!!!
Next morning, car started fine. Drove approx. 4 miles and 'it' started again... press on gas... nothing. Back off, reapply gas, resumes running then back off gas again, etc. Then it stopped and ran fine for another 8 miles where I parked the call all day.
At the end of the day, started car. Drove approx 1 mile and engine light came on and 'it' had started acting up again. Pulled over. Turned off car. Called mechanic to let him know engine light came on (at least now he'll have something to check). Started car again, drove approx 3 miles with 'the problem' and then it stopped again and drove fine the remaining 5 miles home.
Anybody have any ideas?????? Mechanic is stumped (although he did say he's never experienced a Honda having to have a MAP sensor replaced.... maybe it could be a possibility but he's trying to save me money cuz he knows my situation).
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks,
Marcia
M
M
Yes could be MAP sensor, could be throttle positioning sensor, could be bad fuel pressure regulator. All these things can be tested quantitatively for proper voltages and pressures.
There's a fuel pressure test port right there between the pressure regulator and #1 injector. He could install a gauge and see what happens during the engine failure.
If pressure is maintained during engine stallling, then he can go to checking his voltages at the MAP and TPS.
If he doesn't do this, take the car somewhere else. Based on your anecdotal info, making assumptions about a component based on "they are never bad" is kind of self-defeating IMO.
Stubborn problems like this (and I do sympathize with mechanics who have to figure this stuff out) are usually a matter of diagnostic discipline. You keep testing, going from No to No to No to finally, by elimination, a Yes.
But you know, if his fuel pressure disappears randomly that can also explain his symptoms. Like if he has a vane-type fuel pump---they can freeze up and unfreeze once they are left for a while.
I HAVE THIS CAR FOR THE LAST SEVEN MONTHS
WHEN I START AFTER ONE MINUTES ENGIN LIGHT TURN ON AND "S" BLINKING.
AFTER 2 MONTH UN RELIABLE IN STARTING
4 MECHANIC CHECK BUT INFRONT OF THEM IT WAS OK,
THEY ALL ADVISE THAT REPLACE DISTRIBUTER PART FULL.
I DID THAT ENGIN LIGHT TURN OFF,"S" IS STILL BLINKING 5 DAYS NO STARTING TROUBLE,FROM TODAY THE SAME STARTING PROBLE,I F I LEAVE IT MAY BE FEW HOURS LATER WITH FIRST SELF START,IF I GO IN MARET TURN OFF AND START MAY BE OR MAY NOT BE START.......UNRELIABLE...........I WILL BE THANKFUL IF SOME BODY GUIDE ME
for the mechanics. It might help them.
Anyway, thank you ever so much for your response and also a big thanks to kiawah for your input, too!
Marcia
Are you saying that you are having random start problems AFTER your battery was replaced and new wire terminals put on?
or are you saying........
You've had random start problems, and when you took it for service they replaced the battery and put on new wire terminals.
If it's the later, then that is a reasonable fix for random start problems.
My question is this,after a drive,i switch off the engine,and lock the car via alarms,all of a sudden,the radiator fan is on,and works approx 5 minutes, Is this normal for HOnda,??My concern is due to the frequent operation of the fan while the engine is off,my battery drains and it difficult to start the car the next day.ANy advice??
I went to a mechanic and what he did was he wired so that when i off the engine,the radiator fann offs too,,and yes,,when is off the engine the radiator fan didnt work,BUT,a new problem surfaced,.,afetr aprox 3 minutes,my car alarms goes on.,i cant open unlock my car,its like all disabled,,in the front part of the car,,the Bonnet,i could hear noise like water is too heated up,,alarm eventually goes off after 15 mins...the next day when i check my radiator water,its still the same level,never reducted, but the spare plactic that stores water for the radiator is emptied,..meaning the hot water noise that i heard was fromn the spare plastic tank,,,what should i do,,,pls pls advice...
Yes, it is Now it sounds like having that rewired has screwed up something else, or that you need a new battery.
randomly starting problem.mechanic changed plugs,plugs wires
distributer full part,but the problem is there,starting wise it is unreliable,when ever swith on ignition all parts works up to fly wheel,may be 20 times starts but when not starts even every thing works20 times u try but not left 2 to 3 hours 1st attempt it start.
before changing engin light was on and blinking "s"
now only bliking "s"
now when u turn off cooling fan turns on for 2 minutes
before changing it was normal
please somebody advise what i should do?
U say it is normal for the fan to go on after engine if off??well,,doesnt that drain the battery??
any remedy?
If it isn't your battery (it sounds like it isn't if you just replaced it), then I'd go back to the mechanic. It sounds like he or she may have wired some things so that your alarm didn't work right when they tried to "fix" the fan that wasn't broken.
- An alternator, which is to put out energy and put it into the battery.
- The battery, which saves the energy that it is given by the alternator, and supplies power to the vehicles circuits,
- The vehicle fused circuits.
In your case, you haven't figured out exactly where your problem is, only that your 'symptom' is that the battery does not have the energy that it needs to start your vehicle. So you need to figure out which of the three is the real problem.
- Alternator, the best way to check the alternator is to take it to an autoparts chain (pepboys, autozone, etc), who have a machine that they connect to your vehicle and do what is called a load test. This is usually a free test. While the engine is running, the will apply a load to your alternator and see exactly how much current it will put out, and at what voltage. Inside the alternator are some diodes, and a regulator. If a diode is blown or shorted, it will not put out the rated current, and can also drain down your battery when it's not turning. If the regulator is bad, it won't put out the current at the right voltage. So is you have an alternator problem, it isn't refilling the battery back up with energy, so that your battery can start the car when needed. It also can actually drain the battery down, if a diode is shorted.
- Battery. If the battery has either a cell shorted internally, or a high resistance, it will either not accept the energy from the alternator, not hold the energy, or if a cell is out not able to maintain a high enough voltage (there are 6 cells in the battery, each holding approx 2.2 volts). Here again, an autopart chain can put a load test on the battery, and tell you whether it can hold the correct voltage, and deliver enough current to turn your starter.
- Fused circuits. If both of the above check out okay, then there is likely something in your vehicle that is draining down your battery...ie, the alternator correctly charges the battery, the battery is able to hold the energy okay, but something is turned on in the vehicle and is using up the power from the battery. The way to check this, is to put a test light in series with the circuit (disconnect the positive terminal connection, and place the 12v test light or amp meter in series. If you see a large current flow, then you know that something is on. Start pulling the fuses out, until you see the current stop. Then you know you've found the circuit that has the problem. Electrical schematics are nice to have at this point, so you can identify what is on each circuit. For instance, I have seen a defective switch on a power seat, which had the seat motor engaged and trying to turn even though it was at end of adjustment. This may be on a 30Amp circuit, as those motors can use quite a bit of power. I've also had a situation with my daughter leaving on the interior lights of the vehicle.
Thanks for explaining to me how the battery, the alternator and fused circuits operate in a given car. Your letter gives me a bettor grasp of the problem that I'm having with my 1990 honda accord. I'm glad that your letter will be available for others to read and hopefully it will be as helpful to them as it has been for me. Good karma to you my car space friend for sharing your mechanical knowledge with me and others. If its okay with you, when my car is purring, I would like to share my good news with you. Until then, happy driving:)
It was a rare thing when my D4 light blinked a few times and caused my car to slow shift gear and now it starts on perm when I start up which slows me down. How can I fix this? Does it have anything to do with the TCM module?
Thanks
cybercool
Thanks,
Dave
Let me rephrase my question if no one understood it. D4 light use to blink a few times when driving causing my car to down shift making it slower and then it'll go away then drive normal. Now the D4 stays on permanently as soon as I turn on my car and drive. Will this be costly to repair? Someone told me it's the TCM that can be the problem.
Thanks
cybercool
They could be right, however, you would have to take the cover off to know for sure. If there are black spots on the circuit boards, it would have to be repaired or replaced. If you could find a used computer it would save you a bundle. They are like $500 new. I think some parts places sell them too. Check around. If the D4 light stays on constantly, the TCM is usually the culprit.
Regards
Pakiman
Regards
Pakiman