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Comments
Once you have that speed vibration problem fixed, then see if you still have the braking vibration. If so, then you likely have heat warped front rotors, which would need to be replaced.
i changed plugs,plugs wires,complete didtributer and main relay according to different mechanic advice.
some body can help me?
car may be stop at adistance of half km or 200 km
My auto trans shifts perfectly now. The collision must have cleared all the blocked passages in the trans.
But, now I have a check engine light that stays on. I read the code and it was a 12 (either the EGR or the oxygen sensor).
I'll have to check it out today.
94shadow
When you say "sinks to the floor" you mean ALL the way to the floor? If so, then you might have an internal rather than external pressure loss. If it sinks and then gets very hard, but does NOT sink to the floor, and the car still stops with increased foot pressure, then you have a power brake vacuum booster failure or leak....AND....if you have a power brake vacuum leak, this might also explain the stalling.
So your two problem may, or may not, be related.
I want to determine that the fan is functioning as designed and I am not going to cook the engine.
I have done the following as part of the diagnosis:
1) Short the terminals on the thermoswitch connection (ignition on) - fan comes on as it should
2) Removed thermoswitch and checked it for resistivity in boiling water - switch closes as designed below 100C (design is to open at 93C)
3) Rebled cooling system to verify no air pockets
Qs: For anyone who understands and has worked with these systems:
a) Is it possible that this system is OK or am I missing something else
b) Is it beneficial to buy one of the aftermarket thermoswitches that opens at 80C
Thanks
http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html#nofan. Hope this helps.
Regards,
Corkscrew
Thank you.
My brakes are shot and need repair badly. When braking, I hear the dreadful sound of metal crunching together and the ABS light is on. When I get my brakes replaced, I'd like it to be free from any resistance and ride smooth. Is there anything specific I should ask my brake mechanic? Will the mechanic check for sticking calipers? Is Just Brakes® a reliable place to go to?
thanks
Cybercool
Will I see and feel any difference if I add a flowmaster muffler and airflow intake in my 93' my Accord and a tune up ? I really want my car to ride smooth and clean.
Cybercool
I don't know what you have in mind for intake modifications. If you mean just dropping in a K&N filter and adding a flowmaster---no, that won't do you any good at all. If you mean adding a Cold Air Intake system, then yes, you would get better throttle response and a few more HP and the Flowmaster, while not giving much if any more power, would at least sound nice.
You have to keep in mind that from the front of your air filter to the tip of your exhaust is ONE BIG TUBE. If you increase the intake and the exhaust and do nothing in the middle (the engine), then your results are going to be very limited in ratio to the money you spend.
All it takes is money. How fast do you want to go?
I dont want to go to fast but I'd like a quick pick up a little speed. When replacing the air filter for a cold air intake, should I think of replacing exhaust tubing and muffler? One mechanic showed me that the muffler is filled with loose dubris and crap in it.
Cybercool
When using LED light bulbs on my turn signals, do you need some kind of resistor for the turn signals to work properly? The turn signal lights on my instrument panel goes on and stays on without blinking and the flasher has a very loud buzzing sound.
I use the LED bulbs on my brake and back up lights without any problems. All your wisdom and help will be greatly appreciated by me.
I hope someone knows how to remedy this situation.
Mahalo,
94shadow
:sick:
Here is a web page that talks about the problem your having.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/carbulb-notes.htm
Mrbill
Will it work? My concern is the "SPORTS MODE"
stuff and the TCM.
Thank you very much for your input. I had to remove the LED bulbs for my turn signals and replace it with my old incandescent bulbs. Now it works..
I just received the resistors that I had ordered so here I go again. Try and try again..
Thanks again for the information you posted..
94shadow
thank you john
Regards,
Corkscrew
If you need anymore info on what I have or have not checked or replaced just ask.
Thanks in advance.
Just a suggestion
Mrbill
Did you try taking the thermostat out and run the car without it?
Mrbill
I'm starting to wonder if my water pump is working. If the thermostat is opening, and theres no water pump pushing the cold water in the motor then it will run hot. The fans would logically come on if the motor were hot, but they will not come on if the water at the thermoswitch is not hot. And since the water is not flowing then the cold water is sitting right where the thermoswitch is, keeping the switch from knowing that the engine is overheating.
Thats what I believe may be wrong. Is there any really good test that I can do to check the water pump? All the manuals say is there would be a leak, or a howling noise, neither of which I am getting. I don't want to do that kind of work if I do not have to so it would be nice to know I'm not wasting my time before I do it.
The thermostat opens fully at around 180 degrees, and the fans come on when the temperature gets, about 10 degrees or so hotter. The cooling system is supposed to use the circulation of water to keep the engine cool, and the fans are to only come on if they system alone cannot do the job. I have already considered getting a lower temperature thermostat and thermoswitch but I do not feel comfortable replacing those parts with ones of a lower setting just because they may solve the problem I am having, for now. If there is a problem in the system I want to find it and use the parts that are rated for the temperature that the car was designed for originally. Plus, if I were to just get a lower temperature thermoswitch and the fans did cut on, then I would be over working my fans because I know the coolant isn't flowing properly. The gauge would show me a lower temperature because of the fans running, but the hot water in the motor will eventually start to boil off.
If I recall correctly, the pump I replaced on my 88 Accord had a stamped steel impeller. I guess they could fail (break off) or could be eaten away from old corrosive coolant.
Is the coolant in the radiator somewhat clear, or do you see alot of bubbles? Bubbles could be a sign of a failing head gasket, which can also give overheating problems.
Mrbill
I checked the trouble code and came up with code 12. According to the repair manual it is the EGR valve. I replaced the EGR valve twice. The first valve was a used valve but, the second EGR valve was a refurbished valve. It did not help. Is there something else that is connected to the EGR valve that would make the check engine light come on?
Anyone one's help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks to mrbill and elroy for your past help.
94shadow
http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf
Regards,
Corkscrew
I'll try the repairs from the pictures.
The pictures are really detailed.
Thanks again.
94shadow
If you got an air compressor, you can always do a pressure test in each cylinder, and watch for bubbles in the radiator. You can pick up fittings for the spark plug holes at most auto part shops. I made fittings for my air compressor by knocking out the ceramic from old spark plugs, and brazing air fittings into them.
Mrbill
Don't forget, you will need to turn the engine over to the point where the valves are closed for the cylinder.
Mrbill
If anyone has a heavy duty flasher for a 92 Honda accord LX please e-mail me.
Thanks,
94shadow