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had collapsed!dont know how the car was still running!!!
any way its not as huge a job as you might think to strip dizzy down and remove bearing....a new replacement bearing is apparntley available, i am awaiting new one arriving at my local [non-permissible content removed] parts place...should go back together again fairly easily if but a lttle fiddly. ive took pics of the strip down if any body needs some to see what theyre up against!! just email me at
kevsabo@blueyonder.co.uk
and i gladly send you them and give you some guidelines
regards from Kev un Edinburgh Scotland
My 1990 Honda Accord has the automatic tranny and here about 3 months ago I got stuck in a snow drift and rocked it out, well shortly after I noticed if you put it in reverse and if you got on the gas at all it would grind. Now it grinds all the time (it sounds like you are trying to shift a manual with out using the clutch). I am so confused with what it is doing, if you push it out backwards from a parking spot you can drive it around town all day long with no problems as long as you dont need to back up. Do any of you guys have any ideas what might be causing this? If so e-mail me or I will check back here to see. Thanks Troubled01
My question is, does the car actually bypass the EGR after the CEL and that is why it operates smoothly therafter?
Now I will post a list of possible problems for my symptoms in case someone else should need it.
Sputtering on Accel problem (happens mostly when low in gears and at
idle)
1) Check for engine codes (jump connector), check air filter for blockage
2) Check plug wires and spark plugs
3) Disconnect EGR valve and roadtest (check EGR passages)
4) Check main fuel relay if problem happens when hot
5) Check fuel filter, fuel pump (injector possibly even-try
cleaner in tank and/or test with NOID light)?
6) vacuum leak?
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The following are excerpts from various sources - mostly nwesgroups, etc
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After I had it fixed I found a lot of articles online saying that clogged egr valve passages are the leading cause for idling issues. I would suggest removing your manifold, check that tube, replace manifold gaskets since it's already off, clean throttle body as it should come off
with the manifold, inspect idle air control valve since it will be easily accessible then and see if you can clean it.
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No clicking as such. When accellerating I can turn slightly right and off the driveline and the shudder will reduce.
-Check your strut bearings. If they are worn, the top of the strut can wobble left and right as the car accellerates causing a vibration. turning will place a load in one direction and reduce the shudder. it kinda feels like the wheels are out of balance except you feel the vibration
through the car floor and frame more than you do through the steering wheel. you can check this by jacking the front of the car up and grabbing the top of the strut as high as you can and see if there is any play.
would the rumble (absolutely nothing compared to the
>accelleration stuff) be from a possibly warn engine/tranny mount?
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Does the shaking occur as you pass through the 40 - 45 mph range? I had this problem on an 89 with about the same mileage. Had the trans checked, but found no problem. Replaced the motor mounts but shaking persisted. Then replaced both axle half shafts (constant velocity joints) and that fixed it.
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I also get shaking on acceleration in my 92 Accord 5spd.
What could be causing this? Acceleration is the ONLY time I get it.
-usually that is an inner cv joint gone bad.
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shaking under accelerating is 95% of all times caused by the worn out inner CV joints
Thanks
What is the normal price for a timing belt replacement on a 93 Accord LX?
1. Ignitor, coil or oil in distributor - If rpm drop and the car stalls. It takes a while to restart.
2. Fast Idle valve - if your car idle goes up and down in park. Get a used valve at a junk yard.
Did you change plugs and wires too? Also, check your timing.
Clean your throttle body with this ACDelco carburetor tune-up conditioner
Only one possibility though of a few
Price depends on area greatly. I've gotten quotes ranging from $280-$700. I'd say around $300 somewhere is reasonable (with water pump), it's not a fun job.
A major problem, literally affecting about a million cars 2nd to 4th generation honda Accords! At the start,(like U&I pay attention!) D4 starts flashing - code -15 , AND the car cruising at 50-70mph suddenly quits the transmission, and speed drops quickly to 20mph before limping to a stop - life threatening on a major road. !#*$^! Honda is too good a company to be so so stupid about this. Remember the "K" cars.
The problem is the A/T TCU-TCM. A $4 to $40 issue! Labor is about 0.5 billable hours!!! A small component of the "TCU" is blown like an old-time transister! My friendly local mechanic actually pulled the whole unit, opened the A/T Unit and pointed out the blown piece to me. The Honda factory price is $519.74, plus labor, misc., pushing a grand - my car's retail cost - $4,540 - for an excellent car!
My kingdom for a horse shoe-nail comes to mind! All every one, dealer or eBay, does is replace a $5-$15 dollar unit on the board! This is why the internet, eBay or even the dealer wants you to , respestively, WANT YOU to return the old A/T TCU or ask you to send them the unit, fix it, and turnover is two days! Just one burnt component on a circuit board! `
So, find some kid with soldering skill, a 'shack visit, and all is fine. Concurrent solenoid/s may need replacement, not related to the life-or-death A/T TCU. hONDA WILL NOT SELL JUST THE IC-BOARD. The A/T unit we see is just a very good housind for the board. This is the actual part number from Accord book, and the price from Honda's eStore: CONTROL UNIT, AT 28100-PX0-731 or 28100-PX0-732 - both priced $519.74. Then, labor costs! The ECU is attached but is not affected, and that costs $893.22!
Since the numbers involved are maybe milions, why did Honda recall and fix the circuit board? How come hundreds of lawyers are not filing CLASS-ACTION suits?
Does someone have to die or numerous maiming "accidents" have to happen, before the fiasco of the K cars are repeated?!
i was thinking of sending honda an email and photo of my car's life story and how it has endured throughout the years. what do you think the chances of getting anything from HONDA are?
When I turn the AC switch on, the condenser fan does not run. however, when the engine temp goes up, both fans (condenser and radiator) run.
Is the condenser fan not supposed to run when ever the AC is on.
I was charging my AC system, and noticed that the Cond fan wasn't turning and it took for ever for the 134 freon to charge. When the raciator fan kicked in, the charge started filling.
I am wondering if there is any specific relay that turns the cond fan when AC is turned on.
Help from the Forum will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Chan5
I had a similiar problem last summer with my 95 accord. Small crack in top of radiator, driving from Florida to St. Louis - got stuck in Tennessee. What happens is the radiator crack opens up at high temps, your coolant will leak out and the car will overheat. There is a patch kit made for this, costs about $10. It got me back on the road and seemed to be work fine. I happened to meet a radiator guy at a rest stop. He suggested replacing the radiator when I got off the road, to avoid further problems. A non-honda radiator was about $130, good for my piece of mind. I think the patch would've held for a long time, didn't want to risk it though. It's basically a piece of fiberglass mesh and an epoxy paste - rough up the crack and apply.
Don't know about the overflow bottle. I'd guess the steam is forcing the water out? Take care of that radiator, else major complications.
Plastic radiator was a shock to me. I was looking to solder the thing.
I have a 1993 accord EX (140K miles) that spilt a lot of oil today and was smoking as well.
Any idea what the problem could be ? Am hoping the fix will not be over the value of the car
If it was out the tail pipe, my guess would be a head gasket.
Check your oil and see if you see any coolent in it, check the radiator and see if there is any oil in it. If so, head gasket is shot.
You can also do a compression check to see if one cylinder is leaking.
Mrbill
The oil is dripping from the front of the engine and does not seem to have any coolant in it ... guess i'll have to take it to the mechanic - don't know what estimates he'll come up with the car is probably worth $3500 ... and don't have to spend a huge amt.
I'm new to this forum, and I'm hoping someone can help me out with a somewhat extensice question. I have a 1993 Accord EX with about 160,000 miles on it. Overall, the car is in excellent condition and has ALWAYS been maintained well.
A couple of week ago, the I was driving the car as usual (and it was acting as usual), and while slowing down to a stoplight, the engine just suddenly cut-out, and when I tried to restart it, it would turn-over, but not start. Anyhow, the car ended-up getting towed, and the mechanic said it was the distributor. The car got a rebuilt distributor, and life went on as normal...
I had been driving the car around for a week,and had noticed that the engine was a little 'peppier' than normal (i.e: the car didn't really want to slow down when braking--it was like I was braking while still pressing the gas), but I thought that might just be due to the new part.
Long story short, later that week, and about 60 miles later, the car did the SAME thing. The engine suddednly cut-out, and would not restart.
So I had the car towed a SECOND time within that same week, and this time the mechanic is not sure what is wrong with it...
Here's what I do know: The 10 Amp ECU fuse located in the fuse box under the cars hood (passanger side) is reportdly the culprit; it keeps blowing, and when it is replaced the car starts. The mechanic reportedly tested all the electronics and the car's computer, and said that everything is reportedly working fine--hence he can not find the problem causing the short. He said that he could try replacing the ECU, but he was not sure if that would fix the problem since his tests siad it was reportedly working, and realizing I had just spent $$$ for a distribitor, he did not want to make mne [ay for possibly needless repairs.
Instead of a 10 Amp fuse, he put a 25 Amp fuse in the ECU slot (yes, I know this is a bad thing...), and the car will RELUNCTANTLY work. I.E: everytime I am driving and press the break to slow down the engine's RPMs will go down, and the car will sputter/choke like it is going to die, and then when the brake is firmly press the car seems to self recover...
I have done a series of 'experiments' and anything less than a 25 amp fuse will blow. Furthermore, this only occurs when the car is in drive, and the brake is then applied. I can drive it in reverse (or have it sit in neutral) and press the brake and nothing happens. Furthermore, the car can idle forever, I can slam on the gas or 'coast' to stop and nothing will happen.
So any thoughts?
1)Is there a ground thats bad?
2)Is the ECU really bad, despite the check reportedly being OK?
3)What is an ECU anyway, and how much will it cost? Given the recen distributor, I can't afford much more right now.
4)Is it possible this rebuilt distributor is causing this (I asked my meachanic this aand hes says definitely not--although I'm having trouble beliving him since this is when the trouble began...)
5) Is there any way I can at least quich-fix this problem to drive it to another garage? The car won't make it beyond the driveway without blowing a fuse, and I really, really do not want to drive it with the 25 amp fuse since I know that may potentially be shorting out other electrical circuits.
Pleas Help!!
Not a big deal. If you need a new clutch slave installed, maybe...I dunno....$150? If the clutch MASTER cylinder is bad, then you probaly want to also replace the slave cylinder, too...so maybe $300-$350 for all that.
Your clutch is probably fine, it's just the one or two pumps that help your foot move it.
I've got a '93 Accord LX with a new AC compressor I put in last August. The system was evacuated and charged with R134, and worked fine afterwards- until now...
In fact, nothing happens when I try to turn the A/C on. Not even the evaporator fan works... I'm thinking it's something electrical.
Are there any simple things I can check before taking it to the mechanic?
I'm assuming you ment the fan by the condensor, not evaporator. The Condensor is by the radiator, the evaporator is inside the car in the ductwork.
Mrbill
Clutch slave, master cylinder (I knew it was a bad sign when the only think in the reservoir was a few broken bits of rubber o-ring) on a 93 EX. Was timed really poorly (couldn't fix it myself) and ended up being ~$450 from the Honda dealer (oh and that included 2 new radiator hoses). The car only had about 75k on it at the time though.
Mrbill
Ok, the problem is that sometimes when I start my car the rpms in the tachtometer fluctuate up and down from around 1,000 rpms to 2500-3000 rpms or so. I'm not sure as to what the problem is?
-Thanks ahead of time.
BTW, there's no need to use a pry bar when adjusting the belts. Just loosen the nu holding the shaft under the alternator (shaft positioned parallel to the alternator), and use a 10mm socket with a ratchet on teh adjustment bolt (Perpendicular to the alternator) under the alternator and tighten the belt.
If your entire electrical system is dead, it is
very likely that you fried the positive battery cable connecting to the fuse block before the fuse could blow (as evidenced by the sparks coming from your battery terminal). Hopefully this is the only damage.
To check this, use a multimeter or test lamp and check for 12 volts at the two input terminals on the forward side of the fuse block.
Thanks,
Nathan
I have had a few of these and never had a fuel pump go out. The main relay I have replaced on each. There is a procedure in the Haynes manual to test for voltage at the fuel pump. When you turn the key from off to on before crank, you should hear the pump kick on. If you don't, my guess would be you aren't getting gas and you need a main relay.
Relay is $70 and is on the inside of the firewall above the clutch. It took me about 45 minutes to change the thing (you have to take the plastic cover under the bottom of the dash off).
BTW, I did a post mortem on the relay. It has solder cracks around two of the terminals where there wasn't enough material to support thermal loading. Had I known, I would've just pulled the existing one, re soldered all the connections and put it back in. This is a pretty common problem of you google for it.
perhaps there are limit switche(s) in the belt runs that detect end of travel.
maybe one of them is disconnected or broken. here's a picture:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1991&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=SEAT+BELT+%28- 1%29
this diagram seems to suggest only one switch per belt run at the front of travel (closest to the front of the car). hazarding a guess, the switch isn't changing continuity as the belt moves off the full open position towards the "buckled-up" position at the back of the door/window frame.
looks like the switches are pretty cheap. installing / removing them? dunno if it's a DIY project or not. i suppose if i could get at the switch and determine how it functioned, i might modify the circuit to bypass it (don't know off hand if that means shorting the contacts together, or making sure they are always seperated. but the $22.00 is probably worth it to fix it rather than mod it.