Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

cybercool · May 2009

hey Gojackets

Thanks, I found my TCM box to solve D4 problem on Ebay and it's affordable. At Autozone parts store, they were asking $379 and I bought mine used on Ebay for $59.00. I hope it'll last me long.

peace
Jim

94shadow · May 2009

Hi all...
It's me again.
Here goes, I replaced all of my incandescent light bulbs with LED light bulbs and all the trouble lights came on. e.g. brake light on, turn signal doesn't blink check engine light stays on.
I mentioned this problem earlier on this forum but I forgot what I wrote. Someone wrote that I needed an LED compatible flasher relay.
I called all the parts house in Hawaii but some of them did not know what I was talking about.
Where can I get a flasher or relay to run all of my LED light bulbs. I took all the LED bulbs out of my car.
Any answer would be greatly appreciated..
Mahalo,
94shadow

geez123 · May 2009

First let me say THANKS to Mr. Shiftright! His advice was spot on!

Now, I must pose another question. I need to replace the wiper on the driver side. I already bought the blade and the arm. How do I unlock the current wiper so that I could put in new one?

The instructions that came with the Michelin HydroEdge wiper was not clear. It had instructions on how to install it but no instructions to remove the current wiper!! :confuse:

Help again!

Thanks!

Mr_Shiftright · May 2009

Usually it's just a "bayonet" type blade that locks in place by means of a small peg. you insert a screwdriver and lift the blade off the tiny peg and PULL ---usually you pull down toward the car. Very often the place you buy the blades from will do this for you.

drskopf · May 2009

Hi Honda Owners, i'm New Here and i hope to get some help with my small problem, i bought an Accord 92 Ex a year ago, now is 156K my Fuel Gauge was working fine until i change a dead ligth bulb in the cluster(ABS) some time ago, and since then i dont know what happened with the Fuel Level B/c always mark F eventhoug i'm running out of gas. I took it to a mechanic b/c i was having problems with my brakes ABS light was lit (diagnostic was dead ABS unit), so i changed the ABS control Unit ($20 in a yunkyard) problem solved and brakes work excellent, and then he tried to fix the problem with Fuel gauge, he took the cluster out and inspected the gauges, but he could not figured what was causing this problem, so he said that maybe is something related with fuel tank... :confuse:
any suggestion?

cybercool · May 2009

Hi all,

My Honda accord 93 has worn tires that feel hard and has no bounce. How can I get back that new car bouncy feel in my Accord? Should I get new tires before looking into springs and strut replacement?

Thanks
cybercool

cybercool · May 2009

hi all,

My Accord shakes a bit when at idle and I know it needs a tune up. Should I get the oxygen sensor and timing belt replaced? Or should I get a full complete tune-up? I just want my car to driving smooth without shaking. Thanks, Cybercool

cybercool · May 2009

Hi all,
After replacing my radiator, top hose and thermostat less than two years, I've noticed at a stop light my Accord's temp gauge starts to rise. There is no visible leaks when my car is parked over night. Can there be an internal leak somewhere? I've added water periodically but I think I'll have to do a thorough flush. Your thoughts please.

Thanks
Cybercool

jeeper81 · May 2009

I have a 91 Accord LX Coupe. My girlfriend drives it to work nights at a hospital 6 blocks away. I went to run an errand today and noticed a 1ft by 1ft puddle of oil under the front. Then I noticed a trail of oil and hopped in my other car to run my errand. On the way home I drove by her work and followed the trail of oil all the way home. I checked the oil, drove it around back and parked it on ramps. Oil was pouring out. Then I wiped everything off and started it again just for 30 sec. again oil pouring out. I read in my chiltons manual about changing the oil pan gasket, then about changing the oil pump. The manual didnt say anything about the seals. When I started it again, I noticed that the oil was coming from right between the oil pan and the serpantine belt. It seemed to be wet with oil around the oil pan and up the side of the timing belt housing. How do I tell if it is just the oil pan gasket or the seals and pump? I paid $1700 for this car 9 months ago and have never noticed a leak. I can do the oil pan gasket I think, but I am not willing to tackle the pump, timing belt and seals. Should I have my mechanic look at it or move on with the oil pan gasket change to see if that fixes it. Not sure if the car is worth the cost of the timing belt, seals, oil and water pump repair.
Thanks, Jeeper81

elroy5 · May 2009

Oil pan gaskets don't usually leak oil that quickly (pouring out), so I think it's probably the seal that popped out. I would clean the area as much as possible, then try to determine exactly where the oil is coming from. If it is the seal, it's a pretty big job to change it.

astor · May 2009

You probably have air bubbles in your cooling system. Take it back to your mechanic and have him bleed all the air out of the system.

astor · May 2009

Get New Tires. The new tires will go a long way towards smoothing out your ride.

astor · May 2009

Make sure your mechanic replaces ALL the seals, oil, crankshaft, camshaft as well as your timing belt, balancer belt, all drive belts (x3), and water pump. Had all this done recently for approx $600.

cybercool · May 2009

Hi and thanks for input,

Good Year is the best to buy correct? They'll last for a long time correct?
Cybercool

thegraduate · May 2009

There's not really a "best" but rather a lot of good brands; just like car manufacturers. Even some of the names you haven't heard much of, such as Cooper Tires, make excellent long-life tires. If you're looking for the most mileage, simply check the mileage rating on the tire.

I personally prefer Bridgestone tires, simply based on my good experience with them. I've never had trouble out of Michelins either; I have 47,700 on my 2006 Accord Michelin tires and have a good 15,000 miles or more left on them from the looks of things. The big question is how long will I wait to replace them... I will have had the car for 4 years in November; wet traction isn't quite what it used to be either.

fveaces · May 2009

Hello forum, here's my problem. I left park lights on on my 92 honda accord for about 4 hours. I jump started it and notice that the battery light would come on when I idle it up over 3500 rpms. I let the car run for 20 minutes 2 charge the battery and cut it off and restarted it 3 times. 4 hours later same problem, battery dead. I jump started it again drove it home without a problem. Lights brite played the cd player with no problems for 30 mile drive home. Parked it and restarted it twice without a problem. Next morning battery dead again, no power inside the car at all. Took battery out had it checked with tested good but I put a charge on it have it fully charge when I put it back in the car. When I put the positive cable on I got a spark showing that the battery was giving power but then everything died. I've checked all the fuses in the fuse box under the hood and dash, no blow fuses. With no power to the inside of the car I can't really test any relays....Does anyone have any suggestions???? :mad: :confuse:

Mr_Shiftright · May 2009

I'd say you blew a fusible link that is somewhere along the inner fender (with the hood open) and that you may have a bad alternator. I don't know how this battery was "checked" but if it wasn't load tested you really don't know anything about its actual condition. Measuring specific gravity isn't enough.

fveaces · May 2009

I tested the battery with a craftman battery tester and it read good but didn't have a great charge on it so that's why I put a 30 minute charge on it and the battery is hot enough to supply some power to the car but there's no power going into the car. I'm gonna look in the inner fender to see if I can find a blown link. I also noticed that the previous owner has some type of kill switch going into the fuse box under the dash but like I said before with no power going into the fuse box I can't even check 2 see if any fire is going to the switch. I appreciate all the advice I'm getting here and will use this forum to share info. Also thank you Mr. Shiftright for the info I will definitely check that out and would appreciate any more info you can give me, again thank you sir.

Mr_Shiftright · May 2009

Another thing, from your comments. You haven't charged this battery properly. Charging with the alternator doesn't give a deep charge, not does a 30 minute quickie charge. What this battery needs is a 24 hour trickle charge.

Also from your comments--the fact that the battery post sparked on installation suggests that you might have a constant battery drain in the car.

fveaces · May 2009

And that's exactly what I was thinking(drain on battery). I will trickle charge on the battery and see if I can get fire into the fuse box, from there I can try 2 chase down whatever is draining my battery. I will post whatever I may find out here and again thanks.

cybercool · May 2009

Hey Astor,

Can a heat sensor be the problem for over heating? I just Spent $8 on antifreeze to see if it'll cool my engine down. Will the antifreeze help? I hope I didnt throw my $$ away on antifreeze. Thanks for your help.

jim

astor · May 2009

You might want to check your thermostat.

acertijo · May 2009

hi there, iam having the same problem, there was a electromechanic guy who fixed the seatbelt connecting a few extra cables, but now iam getting the seatbelt red light and that irritating noise. how did you desactivated the noise and red light. , email me please valde_e@hotmail.com

acertijo · May 2009

Hi there, iam having the same problem, can you please explain me how did you desactivated the red light seatbelt alert and the noise ?

puga209 · May 2009

hello all just found this forum and not soon enough... so here is the problem i have a 1993 honda accord ex sedan 5 speed have had this car for about 8yrs with relatively no major problems the other day my girlfriend was driving it to work and all of a sudden the car dies out then restarts twice before finally shutting off 1 block from her work so i got there as soon as i could.when i tried to start the car it wanted to start but then died out i thought it could be the fuel filter being cloged or the pump was going out i checked to see if i could hear the fuel pump and... i could,shecked for spark....there was, at this point i started to check all the fuses relays and such....nothing.which led me to think of the ignition i tried to start the car again this time holding the key on the start position the car ran but once i let go to let it rest in the on position it dies out.so my question is what could it be the ignition control module, ignition switch or actual cylinder any help will be greatly appeciated and sorry for the long post just trying to get all the details. oh yeah i did open up the seering colum to see how hard of a job it could be is this really a one piece ignition?thanks in advance

elroy5 · May 2009

I think your problem is the electrical part of the ignition switch. Click on this link, if you would like to learn more. Good luck
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html

fveaces · May 2009

Found out that the alternator was overcharging the battery which fried it. I replace the battery with a new one and replaced the alternator. Replaced the belts also since it was such tight space to work in. When I attemped to start the car it turned a lil to fast as if the timing had slipped :confuse: While checking the relays and fuses I found a aftermarket alarm system that look like it was wired by someone with no experience in what they were doing. Also found a toggle switch that seems to shut the power off to the ignition :surprise: . I think that is the constance drain that was on battery but not sure. If anyone can give me some info on the car spinning over so fast would be appreciated and thanks in advance.

lizard4 · May 2009

2 weeks ago one of our friends changed the main relay and the fuel filter. It ran well that day. The next day, it started up, push the gas, and it stalled. It will not start, and recently the battery died. It was replaced in December. I think I'm going to take it to the shop for peace of mind.

davineprodigy · June 2009

I have a 1993 Honda Accord LX. I am having a problem with shifting the gears. Regardless if I go from Park to Drive or Reverse, there is a hard shift (you feel it like someone thumping you). And its annoying like that too. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem could be; other than rebuilding the transmission? I appreciate all helpful suggestions.

elroy5 · June 2009

Has your transmission fluid been changed recently? A drain and fill, with Honda fluid might help.

tmcburney · June 2009

Hi,

My 93 Accord EX is dripping oil on to the exhaust. The leak originates from something between the oil filter and the engine. There is something that looks like a tin can attached to the engine, then the filter attaches to this thing. There is at least one hose attached to the "thing" as well.

This part is not mentioned or shown in my Chilton's guide.

I originally thought the leak came from the filter itself, but changing it made no difference. Next I thought oil was dripping down from the oil sending unit on to this thing, but changing the oil sending unit also made no difference. I finally got under the car with a flashlight, after cleaning all excess oil from the area, and with a light on the area can see the leak originating from between the engine and this attachment. It leaks only when the engine is running.

Does anyone know what this is, if there is a seal between it and the engine, what it is called, and whether it can be replaced?

Thanks,
Tom

elroy5 · June 2009

Does anyone know what this is, if there is a seal between it and the engine, what it is called, and whether it can be replaced?

Not sure, but it looks like it would be #33 in this illustration. O-ring for the oil cooler.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=1993&catcgry3=4DR+EX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=OIL+PUMP-OIL+- STRAINER

tmcburney · June 2009

This is great, thank you! I don't recall seeing the oil cooler in my book, but I'll try to get the o-ring and figure out how the thing comes off.
Much appreciated.
Tom

elroy5 · June 2009

The bolt or nut, that holds the cooler on is probably under the filter. I doubt you have to use a pipe wrench to take it off. Good luck

tmcburney · June 2009

Yep, you're right, I found another post on the web saying the shaft pictured going through the cooler is what holds it on, appears to be a bold head on the end in your picture. I'll let you know how it works out, and thanks again.
Tom

boogiec · June 2009

I bought my daughter a 93 accord se (used of course) for her 17th birthday, It made it from the scammer who sold it to us to our house, then died. After calming down, and not going to jail(just kidding), I managed to by a junkyard motor, cleaned it up and installed it. The motor runs great I have no regrets there. Her motor was a f22a6, the motor I replaced it with was a f22a4. I used the a6's intake on the a4 block because of the vacuum box or whatever it is thats on the back of the a6's intake. Everything went together great. I also used the existing tranny. I flushed all fluids, and replaced them all up to specs. Here's where the problem(s) come into play. After driving the car for about 10-15mins the engine light comes on and the transmission acts like its slipping ( high rpms no go). The funny part is while the car is moving I can shift to neutral turn the key off then restart the car and the problem goes away, at least for another 10-15mins, then the whole process stars over. I have pulled the code from the engine light it is 12 egr problem I have cleaned it twice, cleared the code, but still get the light I will check solenoids and such next for that problem. This car drives like a dream until the engine light comes on, The D4 light never comes on ever. The only code I get is 12. But sure enough when it comes on the tranny acts up. I pulled the TCM and gave it a good look it appears to be clean nothing out of the ordinary. I have cleaned all transmission sensors and solenoids. They seem to be working or at least there are no codes from them. The transmission runs great until the engine light comes on. Should i be able to get D4 codes on this car if its a transmission problem? Can the code 12 cause a tranny type issue? I have tried to look these type problems up, and this seems to be the most knowledgeable forum on the net. Sorry for such a long post, but I wanted to give as much info as I could. Thank you in advance for any ideas.

gojackets · June 2009

I wonder if your problem is a difference between ECM's for the f22a6 and the f22a4? Your problem definitely sounds computer related and not anything mechanical. I'd try the ECM that was "standard" on whichever model came with the f22a6 and see what happens.

cybercool · June 2009

Hi all,
I have an automatic car and was wondering, is it safe to put my car in neutral while waiting at a red light? I just dont want to put too much force on brakes while waiting.
I've been doing this for a while now.

Thanks
cybercool

trouble4u59 · June 2009

hi cybercool . i don't think it will hurt your car as long as you dont forget to put it in drive when you pull out. i put mine in neutral and coast to the red lights to save gas.

trouble

pat · June 2009

FWIW, I was taught never to do that in case of being hit from behind. I'm not sure that if I got hit from behind out of the blue I'd have the presence of mind to keep my foot firmly on the brake pedal, but it might be something to consider. I also don't see how keeping a foot firmly on the brake pedal at a full stop is detrimental to the brakes.

mrbill1957 · June 2009

Stopping the car put more wear and tear on the brakes then just holding the car from moving. If you just sat and sat at a red light, you won't be wearing the brakes at all.

I would be more concerned to the wear and tear to the transmission shifting it in and out of drive/neutral. Brakes are alot cheaper then a transmission.

Mrbill

elroy5 · June 2009

I've heard that if the rotors are hot enough, holding the brakes at a red light can actually promote warping. The reason is, the part of the rotor where the pads are pressing against the rotor will cool at a different rate than the uncovered area. Don't know how true it is, but just thought I would add that bit of hearsay. So putting the car in neutral, and letting off the brakes could actually help.

mrbill1957 · June 2009

I guess that may be possible, but consider the mechanics. Since disk brakes don't pull away from rotors as do drum brakes pull away from drums, unless the car moves, the pads are still against the rotors, just the force has been removed. I would think the uneven heat loss would still be there, foot on the pedal or not.

Lets say you did shift the car into neutral, unless your on a level road, you still need to keep your foot on the brake to keep the car from moving.

Just seems like alot of work for not much (if any) gain.

Mrbill

elroy5 · June 2009

Also consider this. When the car is at a stop, there is no wind cooling the rotors, the engine is trying to turn the rotors, and the brake pads are holding them back. Couldn't this add to the warpage factor?

I've had cars in the past (65 Pontiac Bonneville, my first car) that would stall, if you didn't put the transmission in neutral. My first Accord would vibrate, if the A/C was on, and I was sitting at a stop light. I would put the car in neutral, if the stop light was going to last a while. The V6 engine in my current Accord doesn't vibrate at stop lights, but from what I hear some of the 7th gen 4 cylinder cars do.

In Louisiana, 99% of the roads are very flat, and there is very little tendency for the car to roll in neutral. Even if it does roll a little, it takes very little pressure on the brake pedal to stop it.

Just trying to give some reasons for putting the car in neutral. Some may make sense to you, and some may not.

nikunjd05 · July 2009

Hi guys,
I have accord 93 10th anniversary edition. A couple of days ago, the Check Engine light came ON on the dashboard. After some researching on the internet, I found a way to find out what is wrong. I found out that the Exhaust Recirculation System is going out.
What the heck is it? How long can I go without repairing it?
How much will it cost?
Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

elroy5 · July 2009

EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) There is an EGR valve, and EGR runners in the intake manifold. The runners, and/or the valve can become clogged up. There should be some how-to's, with pictures, on how to clean the runners and the valve on the internet. I used to have one saved, but it's gone now. Do a google search, and you should come up with something. Good luck

If you don't get the problem fixed it could maybe cause problems with the catyllitic converter, cause hesitation (especially on acceleration), and probably hurt gas mileage.

cybercool · July 2009

hi

Mine has gone on three years ago and still running but a bit rough.
I want to repair it asap but with today's economy, I still come up short on doing it.

I found out my code 43 form the book and it's a fuel system supply issue.
cybercool

tmcburney · July 2009

Is there a source to determine the nut size for the nut securing the oil cooler? I tried up to 32mm / 1 1/4" sockets but they don't fit, and I cannot find a larger socket unless I buy a 3/4 drive set.

I'd like to know exactly what I need if possible, rather than the hit or miss trips to the HW store I've been making.

Thanks again.
Tom

elroy5 · July 2009

Will a wrench fit on the nut, and be able to turn enough to remove it? A socket or closed end wrench would be ideal, but this may be one situation where a large adjustable (cresent) wrench, or a good pair of channel-lock pliers are in order. The nut should not be very tight, just make sure you have the wrench/pliers set as tight as possible. Remember how tight it was on there, so you can gauge how tight to install it.

tmcburney · July 2009

I have channel locks, vise grips, and an adjustable that will all span the nut. The nut is recessed though, since the oil cooler is like a shallow bowl and the nut sits in the bottom of the bowl. With the space and angle of access, I cant get enough of the nut with anything adjustable to get the initial turn. The vise grips broke loose on two tries and I don't want to strip the thing trying again.

I'll take another run at it today, but was hoping there might be a source to get the size so I can get a socket and get it over with.

Thanks,
Tom

Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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