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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    hi
    I read this from that TCM link:
    However, some PGM-FI problem will also make the D4 light in the gauge assembly blink. If there is a problem with the emission fuel control system the code will be retrieved from the check engine light. Repairing the emission fuel control system is first priority. After repairing the PGM-FI system, reset the A/T unit memory.

    I got code 43 (Check engine light) which points to fuel system supply issue. Will this be costly?
    thanks Jim
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi all,

    My mechanic gave me a price of $200 to replace my power window motor regulator with a new one. At the same time I was thinking of replacing my Oxygen Sensor, catalytic converter, muffler,etc.

    Should I spend more $$$ even though my car is running ok
    Thanks
    Jim
  • befries1332befries1332 Member Posts: 5
    ya know i own a 1990 accord ex and yes i have almost 300,000 miles on it, if you just keep up on well everything these cars will run for ever, i mean i guess it would have to be a personal choise, but honestly if you look at a new car now days, for a good car your looking at over 20g so yes i would do what it takes to fix the old car, and as for your $200 to replace the window regulator, i dont know where you live but in Spokane washington you can call a place called spalding auto and have them ship you a brand new regulator and everything for under $100, i recently had to do that myself on my driver side window and if worse came to worse if you can still here the motor wanting to move take a can of wd40 and spry the crap out of the regulator it could just be gummed up but just in case you do need the part or any other parts the number is 1-509-924-3300
    Blake
  • befries1332befries1332 Member Posts: 5
    Yes the same happened to me and my window was all the way down, first i thought that it could be the motor ( those are spendy) so we took some WD40 to the regulator and bamm, some times there just so old that they collect grime so just check and see
    Blake
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Thanks Blake

    I forgot to mention my odometer stopped at 130K when I first bought it, so my engine maybe up there in the 200K or more. It's running fine after a tuneup just a few weeks ago, so I thank God for a reliable car. It's just small things are falling apart like the window motor regulator, oxygen sensor, muffler, etc.

    Thanks
    jim
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi again

    My ABS light stays on when driving. Will it be costly to get that fixed? Is it a brake sensor?

    Thanks
    Jim
  • astorastor Member Posts: 30
    Here's a good Independent Honda repair shop in Baltimore, MD
    Foreign Auto Experts, Inc.
    (Elkridge, MD)
    Mechanic(s): Brian, Steve 6350 S Hanover Rd. - #C ,Elkridge, MD 21075
    (410) 796-4418
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Nothing is wrong with your brakes, so you can rest a little easier. An ABS pump going bad is fairly common on 1990-1997 Accords, and the fix is usually worth more than the car. $1,200-$1,800 from everything I've read here. If you're driving a 15+ year old car, its not worth putting that into it.
  • kneesandtoeskneesandtoes Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1990 Honda Accord with 200,000+ miles on it. Its ran perfectly, my fathers an auto mechanic and has made sure to keep it in the best condition possible.

    When I drive it, sometimes it will struggle to accelerate, sometimes now pushing over 30mph, or ever 10 mph, despite me pushing the pedal completely down. Other times it'll struggle to accelerate, but as I continue pushing it'll suddely jump and go full speed. It happens mostly on hills, but occasionlly on flat surfaces as well. It doesn't happen everytime, however, and the longer you drive it the more likely it is to do it.

    My dads changed the spark plugs, fuel filter, and the distributor. The problems still there. Does anyone have any other ideas? Thank you.
  • befries1332befries1332 Member Posts: 5
    right now i have the same problem as of tonight my car is getting a new clutch and man its spendy, but thats besides the point we did a full tune up also that worked for about a day and then i had a mechanic run a code on the car and its saying that the engin temp censor is bad so i fixed that and no more problems so id try looking at any and all censors just because these are old cars
    Blake
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hey Blake

    My Accord EX 93 still has this problem and I was told it could be the TCM. I replaced TCM unit with a used Ebay bought part and the problem was resolved temporary. Can it be the engine temp sensor as you say? Is Oxygen sensor the same thing?

    Driving at this low speed just feels as if I'm doing major damage to my tranny. Will my tranny go out soon?

    Thanks
    Jim
  • 7555man7555man Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I just registered today. I dont know if you still have the problem but there is a o ring behind the oil cooler that needs replaced. I just did my 93 accord (F22A6) with a 30mm deep well socket in a 1/2'' drive. I got mine from the local honda dealership for $2.00 I had to use hondabond (adhesive) to hold the o ring in place. You dont have to take the water lines off to do this repair. The nut requires 54ft lbs of torque with a torque wench. I hope this helps.

    Dave
  • kneesandtoeskneesandtoes Member Posts: 2
    I took my car to a dealership and they said it was the oxygen sensor and the spark plugs. I had my dad change them and he says my cars fixed. I havent driven it personally so Im not certain but it seems to have fixed my problem for the moment
  • tdudleytdudley Member Posts: 1
    My daughters accord occaisionally loses power when she steps on the brake. Any help would be apprciated.
  • jjnr2004jjnr2004 Member Posts: 1
    When driving my car at 60 miles or better, you let the gas go and the car jurks. I do not know why. Also the car can go down to the first line of the rpm gauge when shifting from park to another gear. Are these events tied together or totally separate? The car has great power on the road and highway, but it feels as though it always starts to miss around 1500 rpms. Furthmore, the jurk only happens at 60 or greater when the gas is released. (the jurk happens as soon as the gas is released at 60 or greater.) Have a 93 honda accord dx
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi all,
    Recently I added about a quarter tank of gas to my empty tank and whiling driving I noticed my fuel guage needle would rise to over half the tank. The empty light goes on several times. I changed the fuel pump, gas filter changed two years ago. Is it a fuel pressure thing? What can cause this and how can I regain a true reading from here on?

    Thanks
    Cybercool
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    hi all,
    Yesterday my passenger side power window decides not to work. It worked fine two days ago. I checked fuses under hood and they look ok. Are there other fuses I need to look for? Please help.

    Thanks
    Jim
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    hi all,

    I went and tried new bulbs (correct ones) for my Cyclop stop light and it doesn't work.
    All my other lights work fine. Does the stop lights work on fuses?

    Please help
    Thanks
    Jim
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi all,

    My D4 light stopped blinking and now stays on constantly while driving causing the annoying slow driving. Will replacing the Oxygen senors and Catalitic converter solve the problem? I bought a used TCM box and that helped temporarily. Are all oxygen senors and catalitic converters the same?

    Please help thanks

    Jim
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi all,
    Will replacing the Oxygen sensors and muffler exhaust pipe fix the TCM blinking D4 dilema? My Honda AccordEX 93 is still driving in low gear with D4 light lit all the time even when put on reverse. I know gas is wasting away when driving like this as well as tranny damage.

    You help is appreciated

    Cybercool
  • legacys7legacys7 Member Posts: 3
    I am having some problems getting my car to turn over; the engine cranks. belt move, getting gas from the fuel pump, no electrical shortages, but I noticed that the spark is very weak. I had a mechanic pretty much confirm what I had tested out already as fine but we tested out a new spark plug to see if I'm getting a spark, he couldn't see the spark, but I was able to see it, but it was very weak. Could this be related to the ignition coil or distributor? The bottom line, the engine cranks but doesn't want to turn over. My car was fine and this problem started a few days after I had changed my radiator.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Will replacing the Oxygen sensors and muffler exhaust pipe fix the TCM blinking D4 dilema?

    No. I think you have another bad transmission computer. Your computer is operating in "fail safe" mode (stays in second gear). If the D4 light stays on constantly, the computer is bad. I remember that much from my 92 Accord service manual. If you were to take the panel off of the computer you would probably see dark spots on the circuit board. That would confirm it. Where did you get this computer from? Used?
  • rchesterrchester Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 Accord DX AT with 188,000 but the motor has about 91,000. My problem is I have a normal and sport bottom on my gear shift. when riding in the normal mode the sport light on the dash will start blinking, but it still rides normal. does this sound like big problem and what do I need to do.
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi Elroy5

    I bought the TCM on Ebay for $55 and it worked great for a few weeks.
    I found out new will cost $369 or more.... OUCH!!!!

    What should I do? I dont want to drive in second gear always, thanks
    Jim
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    rchester

    Read this link. It has a wealth of information about the "S" light, among other things about common Accord problems. Good luck
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    cybercool

    Have you checked around at auto parts stores? Or searched online for refurbished computers. They can be fixed, but it's not something I could do.
  • riccardo2riccardo2 Member Posts: 11
    I had my mechanic replace a TCM with a used one. The job cost me about $300.
    It probably could have been done for a much lower cost, but it was still worth it to me. I've had no further problem. Here's a site with a straight forward easy to understand explanation. When I first read it, I thought that I had written it.

    http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl853d.htm
  • clay99clay99 Member Posts: 1
    My daughter drove her accord about 15 miles right at the end of the trip it started to die on her then it wouldnt start. I jumped it it ran for another 15 miles then started to die then it surged to 1.5 rpm back to 0 up and down. Could it be the alternator. Please help soon. Stranded, Clay
  • helpstophelpstop Member Posts: 6
    i have two issues with my car and the both about a mont apart
    the first porblem is that when my car gets up to normal tempture its starts to idel funny the idel gauge goes up and down between the 1 and 2 markes, but this only happens when i put the car in park and neutral.

    and my second problem is my gas gauge dose not work it always shows that i have no gas

    any advice on what going on would be much help to me.
  • helpstophelpstop Member Posts: 6
    Is sounds like you might have to change the transmission fluid, becaues most honda up to i think 2000, dont have a transmission filter,
    it not hard to change the drain bolt is behind the paeeanger side front tire
  • helpstophelpstop Member Posts: 6
    have you tried to change the transmission fluid because most hondas dont have a transmission filter so , they say change the fluid every other oil change
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hey Helpstop

    I see fuel gauge issues as well. When I add half tank or more of gas, I've noticed the near empty fuel light go on even though plenty of gas is there. Six months ago the light would to go on when I was near empty.

    What's going on with my fuel gauage? Any clue?
    Thanks

    jim
  • helpstophelpstop Member Posts: 6
    have you tried cleaning the electric connector to the gas tank.
    its located in the trunk under the carpet only three srews. and u will see it.
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    hi Helpstop,
    Thanks, is it a DIY thing? I dont want to try and clean it and have my Honda blow up on me...LOL

    jim
  • gojacketsgojackets Member Posts: 23
    We all know that these Accords had TCM's which were prone to failure (usually from up to 5 capacitors leaking and 2 particular resistors frying). This is why the D4 (or S in some models) lights would flash. I had fought the same problem with mine (as well as a screwy windshield wiper situation).

    After spending money on a new VSS and several junkyard TCMs (without solving anything) I did some research on the wiring of these cars and found that the only common element between my problems was one of the grounding connections - G301. G301 is a body ground located behind the windshield washer bottle. I took out the bottle and dismantled, cleaned and tightened the connections inside the G301 ground and found that ALL of my problems with this car were solved.

    This is worth checking for anyone who is having multiple electical problems or a VSS fault with this car.
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi

    wow. are you for real. This is good news. My TCM is still outta wack and it's annoying driving at 25 miles per hr. I want my car to shift correclty.
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi Gojackets

    this bottle is where we add the wiper fluid correct? And when you say behind, is it toward head lights or engine block? My bottle on a 93 Accord is at front right corner side.

    What exactly am I lookng for? I want to do this correctly. Thanks

    jim
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi gojackets,

    Called an few mechanics and it's frustrating to hear them say, "Sounds like a tranny problem." I know it's not my tranny because when I temporarily reset TCM fuse, my car drives and shifts great for a short period of time.

    Please help, I want to keep my car.
    Jim
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hey gojackets

    I think I found the G301 body ground located behind the windshield washer bottle you mentioned. Correct me if I'm wrong, with hood open, in front of car facing toward rear, is it on right corner side of windshield washer bottle? It has a metal plate with two fuses with wires grounded to car chassis?

    Can you email me a pic of G301 body ground?
    Thanks.
    Jim
  • gojacketsgojackets Member Posts: 23
    G301 is located on the drivers side fender and probably hidden behind the wiper fluid bottle.

    It looks like a box - 1.5" tall, 1.25" wide, 0.5" thick. It has 8-10 black wires going into the bottom of it. It is almost always covered with grease and road gunk. The box itself is light colored plastic (the plastic is just a cover) and the aluminum connector inside it is bolted to the fender with a 10mm bolt.

    There is another, identical looking ground located on the passeger side fender (between the strut tower and the battery) that is easier to see - you can take a look at that one so you know what to look for on the other side.

    G301 is "suspect" especially if you have multiple symptoms (in my case VSS/TCM and wipers) OR if your car has ever been wrecked in the front.
  • gojacketsgojackets Member Posts: 23
    image
  • gojacketsgojackets Member Posts: 23
    To elaborate on my earlier posts about these grounds. You need to remove the box and unsnap the top to open it. Clean and tighten all of the connections inside. It will be filled with Honda's "mystery goo". The metal part that is bolted to the car is actually the end of an aluminum connection.
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    will I need to disconnect neg battery terminal to clean all the wiring connectors?

    cybercool
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi Helpstop

    > cleaning the electric connector to the gas tank.

    Do I need to disconnect neg battery and are there danger in the DIY thing?
    Thanks
    Jim
  • 02johnnyboy0902johnnyboy09 Member Posts: 1
    i am going to buy a 93 accord and the owner say that it has an electrical problem and that its a simple fix but a constant one.Is this simil to the TCM mess up?And i should add the will not start.What can it be?
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hey gojackets,

    You mentioned you had problems with the VSS and wipers. What problems did your wipers show and what is the VSS?

    Thanks
    cybercool
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    I want to sell my 93 accord and it has TCM electrical problems and I feel it's a simple fix. It's been reliable for the three years I had it. I dont want to spend more $$$ on it. I want to be honest and tell any potential buyer the TCM can be the issue.I was thinking of asking $1800. Am I asking for too much?

    Thanks
    Cybercool
  • gojacketsgojackets Member Posts: 23
    You are right at the kelly blue book value for that car in good condition and <200K miles (note, I looked at values in the south and not in areas that use road chemicals for snow)
    If I were buying it, though (with the obvious stuff that goes along with a buggy TCM) I would probably offer you $1400. It might be worth it for you to buy one of the rebuilt TCM's that are offered on ebay (somewhere in the $200-$250 range) to get a higher

    you can go to www.kbb.com and get a better handle on the value of your car (presuming a TCM fix has been done)
  • bsquyresbsquyres Member Posts: 1
    so i have a 91 accord......and seriously im about done with it. Ive had the altenator replaced twice in 3 years and a new battery put in 5 months ago....i go to start it and it tries to turn over but wont and then after the 3rd try i get nothing. i jumped it about 20 min ago and it starts right up and runs strong, as soon as i turn it off and try to restart....nothing. it says it has 187k on it but im convinced that the owners before me rolled it back so its prolly got 287k. anyways, it has been having electrical issues as well, like the S for the sport shifter will flash and the spedometer will stop working andd engine light will come on. this all happens at random times. and once the car is shut off it usually fixes it. oh and one more thing, after its warmed up and idling it bogs up and down...so thats the 3 main problems. MOSTLY concerned about the starting issue, have to make a 150 mile trip in about 5 hours...really dont want it to die while on the freeway....any suggestions?? please dont let it be the fkn altennator again lol
  • davidindenverdavidindenver Member Posts: 1
    Car will not start. Replaced battery, distributor cable, (distributor has been tested and ok), ckd timing belt, spark plugs and wires,and module all ok, any suggestions? Car cranks, just won't start.
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