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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • captiankingshtcaptiankingsht Member Posts: 22
    Well if it is throwing a code 41, which is 4 long blinks and one short...then that means theres an issue with the primary oxygen sensor which is on the exaust manifold. That could cause running issues since it tells the ecu how to adjust the air/fuel ratio so the car runs smoothly and reduces emissions. I would check the oxygen sensor to see if its working properly and then replace if its bad. I wouldn't rush out to buy one unless you just have money to throw around. I do believe they are still kind of pricey. Hopefully that is all that is wrong with your car and its an easy fix for you.
  • lizz1234lizz1234 Member Posts: 13
    Okay, thanks! But after the four long blinks and one short, there was a pause, and then there was one short blink again. Is it supposed to do that or is that another code?
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Member Posts: 36
    That is another code.

    Code 1---oxygen content---Check the oxygen sensor, heater and the oxygen sensor circuit

    Code 41---oxygen sensor heater---Check the heater for proper voltage signal

    Try checking to see if the O2 sensor is even plugged in, or check for damaged wires.
    If you're looking for cheap sensors try: Discount O2 Sensors
    Good luck!
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    As I start up my 93' Accord EX, from underneath drivers side I hear a released compressed air sound. What can this be?

    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited April 2010
    Possibly a leaking power brake booster? Try it without your foot on the brake.
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Member Posts: 36
    Hey all,
    My belt(s) are squealing when I start my car. I know its possibly oil leaking, because I'm losing oil, but only when the car is on. I dont see any oil spots on the ground. What can I check and how do I check it? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited April 2010
    Check for a loose drive belt and/or a belt that has a cracked or glazed (very shiny) inner surface. Chances of oil on the belt are pretty slim.
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi all
    Well... my starter from my 93' accord EX went dead. I had my car towed to my place due to no-funds to fix. Is the starter a DIY work? It's near the front and visible. I found the starter for $87 at Discount Auto.
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Member Posts: 36
    We just recently replaced the belts, but I will check anyways. Could you tell me where all my oil is going? Within two tanks of gas I need to add about two quarts. Seems a little much to me.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Easy job.

    1. Disconnect the cable from the battery negative terminal.

    2 .Remove the engine wire harness from the harness clip on the starter motor.

    3. Disconnect the starter cable from the B terminal on the solenoid, and the BLK / WHT wire from the S terminal.

    4. Remove the two bolts holding the starter, and remove the starter.
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Member Posts: 36
    Hey everyone,
    I need to change my fuel pump, and I was wondering if there was anything to be careful of, other than the obvious (I know gas is explosive, I will take proper precautions). Thanks!
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    I'm still driving on a bad TCM. My Honda 93 accord still wont shift into high gear. I drive in low gear to and from work. It's going on two years like this. Am I doing more damage to my car and my transmission? I want to buy a new TCM soon but haven't gotten to it. Please advise. Thanks
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Your transmission likely gets hot, depending on how high the RPMs are and the duration of the drive.

    Check the fluid and see how it smells.
  • captiankingshtcaptiankingsht Member Posts: 22
    So I managed to get my car running and idling properly while it is in park. It seems to be running fine but now I have other issues. If I hold the gas pedal down and rev up to 2k rpms, as soon as I go over 2k the idle jumps up to 3k really quickly...even if I take my foot off the gas pedal. I have no idea why it is doing that. I am hoping someone may have some suggestions on things to check or may have had a similar problem. Also, when I put the car in gear the idle drops unusually low. I may be wrong but its sitting around 600 rpms and I dont think its supposed to be that low. It is an automatic and the car has well over 200k miles on it. I adjusted the idle by the screw on the throttle body while the IACV was unplugged. Also when I test drove the car today it would not shift out of first gear. It didnt have that problem before I stopped driving it. There is no error code coming up. Before i stopped driving it, it would give me a shift solenoid error but I replace them and it was still in limp mode. Now there is no error and it is stuck in first. I am lost. Any help would be appreciated.
  • lizz1234lizz1234 Member Posts: 13
    My car gets stuck in park. I have to stick my key in the shift lock release and put it in neutral, then start my car. Also, if i'm coming from a complete stop, I'll press on the gas but my car barely moves. It's almost as if it's coasting, but I'm flooring the gas pedal. 1990 honda accord. :/ help? :cry::cry::cry:
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Member Posts: 36
    Hello,
    My power steering pump fluid has this weird smell to it, kind of like burned out electric motors. Also, I noticed when I started up the car one day, I looked under the hood and the fluid was bubbling up out of the reservoir. It was the only time and hasn't happened again to my knowledge. The car wasn't hot, and the car handled just fine and the fluid was at the correct level (before and after). The smell also seeps its way into the car while we are driving, and it isn't pleasant, so I'm going to assume that whatever is happening, it is also happening while we are driving. I'm stumped as to what this could be. Any comments?
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Three years ago I had my fuel pump and fuel filter replaced by a close friend. He did a fine job but lately I notice fuel smell during start ups in the mornings.Besides changing the Oxygen Sensor, fuel filter, and muffler, how can I get gas efficiency and save $$$

    Thanks
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    I forgot to mention; should I go back to a certified mechanic and have them look at fuel tank and filters to make sure all connections are right?
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Member Posts: 36
    Hey all,
    Just wondering if anyone had any tips for replacing the front oil seals. Replaced them earlier this year with the timing belts and water pump, and one (or more) is leaking gallons (not really, but it is ALOT) of oil while its running, and I want to make sure I do it better this time. Any thoughts? Thanks
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi all
    I bought my 93 Accord EX with a dead odometer that stopped at 130,000 4 years ago. My car has been good to me with fixes and repairs along the way.

    There's no way I'd be able to know the true mileage on my car. How can I preserve and maintain the engine to keep running even longer? Should I do the timing belt change and main tune-up?

    I'm always thinking of selling it and getting another maybe newer Accord with a working odometer.
    Please advise what to do.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well, you could have the odo repaired or get a junk one.

    You could remove the timing belt upper cover and inspect the belt for wear or oil-soaking, or cracks or any suspicious looks. You can easily see if the "lugs" on the belt are worn on one side.
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Member Posts: 36
    I am going to be replacing my connecting rod bearings as soon as the parts ship, is there anything I should look out for or look at while I'm under there?
  • carlosmolina45carlosmolina45 Member Posts: 1
    1993 Accord, D4 indicator light on continually no matter what gear t is in. I also noticed that the tranny is shifting very strangely if at all. Can u suggest anything?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If your D4 light stays on, even when the shift lever is in Park, the transmission computer is probably shot. If you want to make sure (I would) open the computer up, and look for dark spots on the circuit board (capacitors leaked). I would try to find a used or refurbished computer, cause a new one will cost a bundle. Just make sure the numbers match.
  • wombatofwarwombatofwar Member Posts: 2
    91 accord loss all powers to the gauges, the door locks and windows, and the engine fans. This happened while driving down a straight-away no bumps or water splash. what could have caused this all to go out? the fuse's are all good still( both in car and under hood fuses)
  • wombatofwarwombatofwar Member Posts: 2
  • lucyrafa310lucyrafa310 Member Posts: 2
    Hello,

    Did it work by replacing the ignition switch?

    Im having the exact same problem.

    :cry:
  • lucyrafa310lucyrafa310 Member Posts: 2
    90 Accord won't come out of PARK! The power windows stopped working at the same time, my signal light too the stoped working and also my display won't light up and my gauges don't come on either. I checked and replace all the fuses and relays that i could find and they are fine. PLEASE HELP ME !!! :sick: :cry: :confuse:
  • gojacketsgojackets Member Posts: 23
    The '90 and '91 Accords have an interlock that will prevent you from shifting out of park if there is a fault in the electrical end of the braking system. You might also have a buddy check and see if your brake lights (both sides and center) come on when you step on the brake pedal.

    Lucyrafa310's problem sounds like a bad ground in one of the underhood circuits. These are something to be checked especially if the car has ever been wrecked in the front end. There are two main grounds located on the inner fenderwall. On the driver's side (this is on diagrams as "Ground 301", I think) it is near the washer fluid bottle (it looks like an aluminum box about 1.5x1.5x0.5 inches. You can take this box apart fairly easily and clean all the connections and reattach to the fender. The box on the passenger side is the same size and is located between the battery and the strut tower.

    Tracing electrical problems in Hondas is a "joy"
  • lizz1234lizz1234 Member Posts: 13
    I'm having a problem finding my oxygen sensor. Both my dad and I have looked under the hood, and neither of us can find it. I have a 1990 honda accord ex.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Just follow the 2 down tubes of the exhaust manifold down and back, until they merge into one cylinder, and just after that merge, sitting on top is the heated OS.
  • ken734ken734 Member Posts: 2
    HI:New to forum,have seen some posts similar to my issues with 91
    Accord. Car runs fine,but have lost all gauge indications,except for battery lite.Pwr windows and seat belts inop.Have found a short in interior lights and radio circuit.Have not found the cause of those shorts. Have read a few pieces referencing ground connections near window washer bottle and on rt fender. Can locate neither. Know of grd to fender off of battery. Rplcd that cable. Am convinced this is a ground issue. Any help would be appreciated. :sick:
  • gojacketsgojackets Member Posts: 23
    The battery ground that you replaced was a wire bolted to the fender (G202 in Honda wiring diagrams). Next to that is a small plastic box bolted to the fender that has 5 or 6 black wires coming out of the bottom of it - this is G201. On the opposite fender is G301.

    Hondas have odd combinations of things on the same circuit. Example, speedometer, cruise control, windshield washer and wipers are all grounded through G301.">
  • randborandbo Member Posts: 1
    my honda accord(1990)runs great,the problem I have ,if the sport mode will not disengage,with the sport mode light on most of the time it has only 2nd and 3rd gear,the few times the light will go off it shifts fine,, any ideas
  • riccardo2riccardo2 Member Posts: 11
    It's probably the transmission control unit. The problem has frequently appeared in past discussions on this site. It's a simple and inexpensive fix by any good auto mechanic. We had the problem several years ago.
  • 92honda192honda1 Member Posts: 5
    edited June 2010
    My 92 accord is gushing oil out under driverside big puddle when i started it tis morning so i shut it off. not the greatist mechanic so not sure what the problem is. I know that it needs an oil change and it has 185k and it is an automatic can someone help me figure it out.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hmmm....that much oil leaking out makes me suspect a loose oil filter.
  • twcinnhtwcinnh Member Posts: 14
    I'm not a mechanic but I had a similar problem this winter with my 93 Accord. The gasket on the oil cooler had to be replaced. I think it cost less than $100.

    I filled it with oil (took about 2 quarts). but that came right out when the engine ran.

    Good luck.

    Tom
  • 92honda192honda1 Member Posts: 5
    Thanx alot Tom. yeah i dont want to dive it cause when i start it up it just pours out. but ill check out the part and see if i can do it myself thank u.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Are you sure it's engine oil and not transmission oil? You could also have a busted cooler line from the transmission to the radiator.
  • 92honda192honda1 Member Posts: 5
    Yeah its dark brown and i checked the oil and it was real low. i think its comeing from underneath where the timing belt is.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well oil can travel along an engine block---but from that place, it could be a bad front crankshaft seal. That might not be too hard to fix, although one wonders why it would blow out a front seal like that.

    I wonder if you have way too much crankcase pressure, like from a clogged PCV valve/system.

    Or, excessive oil pressure from a stuck oil relief valve.
  • 92honda192honda1 Member Posts: 5
    edited June 2010
    How would I find out if my PCV valve/system is clogged or if i have a stuck oil relief valve? My car also has a really low idle could that be from a clogged PCV valve?
  • astorastor Member Posts: 30
    edited June 2010
    If it's leaking under the timing belt housing, I'll bet one of the three seals in there is leaking, crankshaft seal, camshaft seal, oil seal.
  • 92honda192honda1 Member Posts: 5
    Are any of those seals expensive to fix?
  • astorastor Member Posts: 30
    edited June 2010
    My independent Honda mechanic replaced all three seals, cam seal, balancer shaft seal, crank seal with the 200,000 mile timing belt replacement service, he also put in a new water pump, Oil pump O ring, Balancer belt, timing belt, all drive belts(alternator & power steering) all for US$570.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If it is one of the seals, the timing belt is oil soaked and needs to be changed also. $500 sounds like a fair price for that. I am pretty sure there are retainers you can install to keep the seals from popping out again.
  • astorastor Member Posts: 30
    Just make sure when you replace the timing belt with an OEM belt from Honda (supplied by Gates). The OEM will get you to 100,000 miles, even if it has been soaked for a long time with oil. Goodyear makes an after market belt, some mechanics use it to cut corners on cost.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I certainly wouldn't take the timing belt off, replace the seal, then re-use the oil soaked timing belt. The belt costs less than $40, so it's not a big expense. If the belt breaks, that would be a big expense.
  • astorastor Member Posts: 30
    My main point is this, he needs to replace the timing belt with an OEM belt one.
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