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please let me know. thank you and god bless.
If you have a friendly Honda dealer parts department just call and ask what is the exact part number. I don't have the number of the one I took out ( which was the original installed unit) but the one I bought on Ebay, and the one which will also work, is 28100-PX4-823. This is a superseded unit # from the stock number. I got this number from a parts guy at my local Honda dealer so I purchased it on that basis and it works on my 1991 Accord LX sedan. There is a difference between EX and the DX-LX models so this is where my caution comes from. Hope this helps.
Their prices seem good but the shipping seems a lil steep.
Thank you in advance
I just got the honda1990 manual . Is it the thermostat the only thign I should check? If there is a Temperature sensor, where is located? I don't see it!
Thanks
Thanks for the feedback.
When they flushed your transmission, did they refill it with the right fluid? I know Chrysler transmissions were very sensitive to the additive package, I would expect others to be similar.
Checked all fuses and connections. they are good.
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/aa010301a.htm
"The engine and transmission computers for the Hondas are usually located under the carpet of the passenger side floor/foot rest area. Remove the carpet, which may require loosening the door jam or trim areas of passenger kick panel. Once the carpet is pulled back you should see a large (and you'll find out soon, quite heavy) "bash" or protection plate. This can be removed by extracting the fastening screws to the plate and moving the plate to the side. There are two or three plugs in each unit. Depress the center of the tab and pull away from the unit. The transmission computer is the one with the prefix part number "28100" and the engine controller has a prefix of "37820". As we stated, the trans controller is much more prone for failure. Be sure to check your distributor and ignition components before investing in an engine controller. Most trans computers and repairable and you will likely be in "limp mode" or "fail safe" mode which is 3rd gear and rev only and the "D" or "D4" light will flash or stay lit. Often the Sped sensors or shift solenoids are adversely affected and must also be replaced. Be sure to have them tested before reinstalling reman trans computer."
Go back to post #359 and this has been pretty well talked about even before that. I guarantee you need a transmission control module to solve your problem. The replacement number has been posted previously for this module. I got mine on Ebay. My local foreign car salvage yards have a hard time keeping these in stock. It would seem from the other posts that @100,000 miles these go bad in the 90-93 model years. Hope this helps.
You mention you have spark, but do you have timing? You might want to double check the ignition timing on the distributor to make sure you are getting the spark at the right time.
I have never heard of this happening with an Accord, but sometimes the timing belt for the valves can slip a tooth or two and that can create problems. Again I think this is pretty unlikely.
The first problem has to do with the engine reving up and down by it self. It's a slow rev, and it usually goes from 500 RPM to about 2000 RPM. It will do this randomly, but mostly when I start the car or put it into park. Some times it does it even while it is in drive and will try to over power the brakes. I notice that it causes the trasmission to have a "hard" downshift, and cause the car to surge when I let off of the gas pedal. Today I removed the Idle control valve to clean it and noticed that it did not have a screen. I went ahead and cleaned it. It actually helped things for a few minutes, and then it went back to the usual.
My next problem is the engine temp. The car can get alittle warm sometimes, too warm for comfort. I notice that when I'm stopped somewhere, like at a stop light, the car when warm up to about 3/4. When I start moving the car will cool down to almost halfway. One really strange thing is when the car is getting hot, I can turn on the AC and the engine will instantly cool down to below halfway. I was thinking that it could be due to the fact that it turns on one of the fans, or sometimes both fans. With the AC off the fans come on randomly and usually not when the car is hot. I replaced the thermostat today, and it is still being weird. I also bled the coolent system so I wouldn't have air pockets.
One other small problem is the D4 light doesn't come on.
Any suggestion?
On my way to work this morning the light blinked on n off a bit more than usual and on a clear patch of road I hit about 80mph then the tachometer and speedo went dead. I also noticed the instrument panel lights were a little dimmer than before as were my headlights. After a while the speedo came back online but the tacho was all over the place. Every time I hit the brakes, beeped the horn or used the indicators the speedo would drop to zero along with the tacho.
Since the engine didn't seem affected I thot I’d get it to the office then call someone in to look at it. Fortunately before I ended the trip all went back to normal.
Is this going to be a problem or is that normal?
I'd bet money that it's your alternator.
There may also be some air bubbles left in the cooling system that should work out.
Another scenario is the water pump isn't spinning fast enough at idle, which would imply the pump is bad or there is some issue with the timing belt or its tension or the cam timing. I would think though if that was off, the car would run so poorly you would know right away.
I do not believe it to be fuel related because it ran fine at lunch time with no fuel starvation issues, and it ran all the way home with no running issues.
I believe it to be something electrical (ECM, relay, related) but cannot imagine where to start. Any ideas or suggestions from the gurus would be greatly appreciated.
I'm sorry if this kind of advise is not allowed on this forum, but these guys need REAL help.
Will the VSS prevent the car from starting? As stated in my original post, the car now fires up but immediately dies. It may take as many as 10-15 attempts to start the car before it remains running.
PS: Don't crank the engine for extended periods with the plug out. With the plug out, and cranking the engine, you should get a gas smell coming from the cylinder that has no plug in it. good luck again.
That's all I can think of to try, at this point. Try not to just buy parts, and throw them at the problem. This can get very expensive, and frustrating.
i have spent 2+ hours looking for the wires. A black/white wire and a black/red wire. Does anyone have any experience or suggestions with installing a keyless entry system.
Thanks
I would skip a wrecking yard for this since its likely that the part is worn on out on a car that is dead enough to be in a salvage yard in the first place.
Majestic Honda has a discounted price sheet that might give you an idea what the part cost is and the exploded view gives an idea of the installation difficulty
As for the engine surging problem see below about the Fast Idle Valve and Idle Air Control Valve. This is all the info I found online when I had a similar problem:
**It is most likely your Idle Air Control Valve. With the engine idling, remove the cover from this valve and feel for air circulation. When the engine is at correct operating temperature, this valve should close off and you should not feel any air circulating. The idle air control valve is located on the front of the EFI. Two phillips head screws hold the top cover in place.
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fast idle valve... I spent like 50 bucks on it at hparts.com. If you are looking at the motor (*standing in front of the car) look on the intakemanifold. The fastidle valve is on the front side of the IM on the right hand side. Its got two rubber hoses connected to it, and a copper top. Replace the whole assembly, and your car will be normal again.
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Finally with the intake pipe off of the t/b one of my friends noticed a 10mm bolt missing from the Fast idle valve underneeth the throttle body. I pulled the throttle body off to take a better look at it and sure enough i was missing a 10mm that holds the fast idle valve to the t/b.
So we pulled the throttle body off put a bolt in it and bum!!!! Problem fixed...
After all of that time it did end up being a vacum leak, it certanly wansn't expecting it to be underneeth the t/b but I'm very glad i found it..
So guys before you start replacing your IACV's check and make sure you don't have a vacum leak, if you don't have a vacum leak take off your fast idle valve shake it, if the inside rattles, it went bad!!
As for a bolt missing out of my fast idle valve I have no clue how that happen because i never remember taking it off or messing with it at all..
So once again here are the fixes to this problem.
1. Low coolant level, air in the cooling system.
2. Vacum Leak in the maifold t/b, injector area
3. Fast Idle Valve went bad
4. Dirty screen in IACV
5. Bad IACV in this case thou the motor would make a quick 400rpm surge.**
Hope this helps!