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Thanks
Cary
I went ahead and replaced the fast idle valve, but I didn't pay much because I pulled the part off a parts car. I cleaned the part and made sure it sealed properly. After I finished that I started looking at the vacuum lines. I followed a few of them to their origins. I noticed that I had my resonater line, line #8, hooked to my intake piping, and one of my idle valve lines hooked to my intake manifold. So with that my car was confused. All I had to do was hook the lines bak to the correct places. I'm sure glad I fixed the problem because now everything runs properly.
I'm not saying that this is the way to cure the problem for everyone, because it was my own mistake when I replaced the head.
Thanks for all the feed back!
Mrbill
Thanks.
Take care
DTC link: http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelpkeefe/images/ECM_codes.PDF
I did find this on IMA malfunctions for earlier civics: Continued high idle speed - Check for a disconnected idle mixture adjuster sensor coupler or an open circuit in the idle mixture adjuster sensor wire. Also faulty Idle Mixture Adjuster sensor.
And this description of the error code 11 you are getting: Idle Mixture Adjuster sensor / circuit
This link has some additional info: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1- 4/18/95/0900823d80141895.jsp
good luck
At approx 175,000 miles, the SRS light has come on.
Dealer wants $100 to clear the memory, as there is no code coming from the computer, but according to what I have found researching this online, the light will return.
Search Google and there are hundreds of people driving Accords with this exact same issue.
See one example here
Honda claims it can be caused by cellphone use, by keeping electronic devices like laptops in the passenger seat, and some people have even been told that the leather in their seats is a 1,000th of an inch too thick...LOL
Anyway, I feel that if so many people have this issue, that Honda should be fixing these for free
(People have been quoted up to $1,500 to repair.)
Some folks have even had the lights turn off, and then after experiencing an accident, not have the airbags go off!
The airbags are not just a secondary safety device, as these cars would most likely fail federal standards without them.
Anyone else seeing the SRS issue?
I searched the forum and got ho hits.
Thanks!!!
I should note that the pressure and unique flow of air on a car at speed can force water into the car in a way that I could never replicate with a garden hose or even a pressure washer.
The culprit was a replacement windshield that was installed years earlier and eventually developed leaks. It has been my experience (with other vehicles as well) that the fit and integrity of aftermarket windshield installations are not very good. When I had it replaced again last year for rock damage the leak was also cured.
Besides performing the previously posted checks, I would also call the former owner, if possible, to see if the windshield was ever replaced.
I have a Honda 1990, almost mint condition. I am planning of driving up to Toronto , Canada byt the end of the year. Here is the problem, I live in Miami, Florida.
Is this too crazy? If I do it, what precautions should I take?
Thank you in advance!!
Are you moving? There might be some tax issues with bringing a car into Canada, but they should be minor on something that old. If its just a road trip there should be no such issue.
How many miles are on it? Is the maintenance up to date?
Second, maintenance is up to date but I will get a whole tune up to play safe! as fas as major issues (timing belt,brake pads, oil, filters everything is up to date).Miles: 130 000
tires are also new but they are not winter tires at all. I am not planning to drive my car during the winter in Canada. Once I get there I will park my car in an underground garage.
Should I get winter tires for the trip or all seasons tries are ok for late december trip?
Cheers!!
I would feel comfortable driving from FL to Windsor, Ontario, Canada or something.
So you have a well maintained car in good shape and getting a tune up just to be sure? I personally wouldn't have any issues with a road trip in that car.
With such low mileage, you should be just fine. I drive my 96 Accord daily with 166,500 miles on it.
i have another problem today, i drive normally and turn on a street junction so i actioned the turn lights and when i go straight again the light switch come back to its position but the "turn sound" keept and faster as it sounds when you turn right or left, i checked with hazard and it´s normal and the turn sounds on left and right are good but in "no action" position it doesnt stop.
i replaced the fuse,(turn lights) and nothing happens...anyone can help???in the manual are pages 6-162 to 164 but i don´t have those pages.
I'm no mechanic though, so don't take my word for it. I'm just speculating.
An electrical failure (distributor) would be unrelated to the running out of gas.
I now need to trace a bad ground or power wire back to the turn signal since it won't correct with a new bulb and routine troubleshoot. Has anyone done this before? Any areas prone to wiring issues that I should check first?
Thanks!
HTH
My accord 90 is not colling well. and the freon saver looks foamy so freon level is low. Should I replenish the system or should I leak it all out and put new gas in ? any hints?
That said, the conversion really isn't that big a deal anymore. They leak test the system and change over a couple of fittings and then refill the system with R134 and PAG oil.
There is middle ground, there are freon types on the internet that claim to work for both or either. The issue is to find where the leak is coming from.
I would call around and get quotes from independent AC shops. I believe they change the valves on the system that are used for filling and emptying. A bigger and likely more costly issue is to find where the system is leaking from and repairing the faulty component.
Many times, components are pretty cheap on eBay, but you still have to have someone evacuate the system and then refill it after repairs are completed.
Go back to message 359 and start forward. You will most probably need a transmission control module but please read the posts to verify with what your symptoms are. Messages around #382 talk about it also. Putting it in park and getting a clunk is a new one but the S light is probably the key to your problem. Good luck.
My Gear shift handle has a button that turns on a sport green light on the dashboard panels. What is this for?
Given its age and mileage, I definitely wouldn't put it off past 90k. The engine is an interference design so when the belt breaks, the valves and the pistons try to occupy the same space. This makes a game over for the engine. While you are in there, most people change the tensioners and the water pump.
If you dont do this and the belt breaks, the engine sustains major damage and then you keep posting about how to find an H22 conversion instead of googling it or looking at the Sport Compact Car website where they did it in a project car.
You are one of the lucky ones. There are many who waited, and were sorry they did (some have broken soon after 100k). If the belt breaks, your engine is usually not worth repairing afterwards.