Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

1992rustbucket · September 2006

I have a 1992 LX 4 door that would not shift this morning after running fine yesterday. It has 143 k on it. When I pushed the clutch to start it, I immediately felt it drop to the floor. Has anyone done a master/slave cylinder replacement that can tell me if I should tackle this?

Thanks
Cary

Mr_Shiftright · September 2006

it is often recommended to replace the slave if you've done the master, but not necessarily the other way 'round. You might just have a leak in the slave cylinder (the most common ailment) and they are pretty easy to replace. What can be more difficult is bleeding the slave cylinder. With such a small piston they can sometimes be a devil to get all the air out.

bodyshopguy · September 2006

I seem to have found the problem. 2 vacuum lines were mixed up. The vacuum line for an idle valve, and the vacuum line for the intake resonator.

I went ahead and replaced the fast idle valve, but I didn't pay much because I pulled the part off a parts car. I cleaned the part and made sure it sealed properly. After I finished that I started looking at the vacuum lines. I followed a few of them to their origins. I noticed that I had my resonater line, line #8, hooked to my intake piping, and one of my idle valve lines hooked to my intake manifold. So with that my car was confused. All I had to do was hook the lines bak to the correct places. I'm sure glad I fixed the problem because now everything runs properly.

I'm not saying that this is the way to cure the problem for everyone, because it was my own mistake when I replaced the head.

Thanks for all the feed back!

fonge920 · September 2006

Now that I finally have a working TCU, I need to address the water problem I seem to have. It used to only come in somewhere under the dash on the passenger's side, but now it comes in on the driver's side also. I can't tell exactly where, but the floor and mats get soaked (and also ruin the bottoms of all my pants). I bought the car from a good friend of mine, and they knew about the passenger side leaking and spent an entire afternoon with the hose trying to figure out where it was coming from and never found it. Where could it be coming from? Is this a common problem?

mrbill1957 · September 2006

Have you check the A/C drain line yet? When they get plugged up, the water will drip in the car.

Mrbill

riverpro · September 2006

Hi there !, i need to know what exactly makes the IMA sensor, because i have a check engine light on and the code that it shows is 11, i read it´s a IMA sensor, the problem is "where is it???".
Thanks.

Mr_Shiftright · September 2006

Check the drains for the fresh air vents (under the windshield wipers). If those get clogged with organic materials (leaves, pollen, etc) you end up with a little fish tank under your wiper blades. You may have to pop off the vented cowl and dig in there with a piece of coat hanger or something...

lastwraith · September 2006

You're welcome on the feedback. Glad it turned out to be something simple and more importantly...cheap.

Take care

lastwraith · September 2006

Not quite sure exactly what you are asking but that's the Idle Mixture Adjuster sensor. I don't have the manual in front of me but a quick online search turns up very little for a Diagnostic Trouble Code 11.

DTC link: http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelpkeefe/images/ECM_codes.PDF

I did find this on IMA malfunctions for earlier civics: Continued high idle speed - Check for a disconnected idle mixture adjuster sensor coupler or an open circuit in the idle mixture adjuster sensor wire. Also faulty Idle Mixture Adjuster sensor.

And this description of the error code 11 you are getting: Idle Mixture Adjuster sensor / circuit

This link has some additional info: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1- 4/18/95/0900823d80141895.jsp

good luck

twolfe2409 · September 2006

93 EX 107000 miles (mint condition). I am having the same problem. mine will start but i have to keep trying. i have replaced the fuel pump, filter, ignitor and relay switch. one shop did tell me that the relay wire was broken. he replaced the wire and i am still having the same problem. not to mention, yesterday my trans went out. I purchased a new car a couple days ago, however i am still going to put a trans in my Honda.

scottm123 · September 2006

I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX (wife's car)

At approx 175,000 miles, the SRS light has come on.
Dealer wants $100 to clear the memory, as there is no code coming from the computer, but according to what I have found researching this online, the light will return.

Search Google and there are hundreds of people driving Accords with this exact same issue.
See one example here

Honda claims it can be caused by cellphone use, by keeping electronic devices like laptops in the passenger seat, and some people have even been told that the leather in their seats is a 1,000th of an inch too thick...LOL

Anyway, I feel that if so many people have this issue, that Honda should be fixing these for free
(People have been quoted up to $1,500 to repair.)
Some folks have even had the lights turn off, and then after experiencing an accident, not have the airbags go off!

The airbags are not just a secondary safety device, as these cars would most likely fail federal standards without them.

Anyone else seeing the SRS issue?
I searched the forum and got ho hits.

Thanks!!!

tom1sharon2 · September 2006

I had the same problem with my '93... water dripping from under the dash onto the passenger floor when driving in the rain.

I should note that the pressure and unique flow of air on a car at speed can force water into the car in a way that I could never replicate with a garden hose or even a pressure washer.

The culprit was a replacement windshield that was installed years earlier and eventually developed leaks. It has been my experience (with other vehicles as well) that the fit and integrity of aftermarket windshield installations are not very good. When I had it replaced again last year for rock damage the leak was also cured.

Besides performing the previously posted checks, I would also call the former owner, if possible, to see if the windshield was ever replaced.

Fukuyama · September 2006

hello,
I have a Honda 1990, almost mint condition. I am planning of driving up to Toronto , Canada byt the end of the year. Here is the problem, I live in Miami, Florida.

Is this too crazy? If I do it, what precautions should I take?

Thank you in advance!!

lilengineerboy · September 2006

Why is this a problem?
Are you moving? There might be some tax issues with bringing a car into Canada, but they should be minor on something that old. If its just a road trip there should be no such issue.
How many miles are on it? Is the maintenance up to date?

Fukuyama · September 2006

hey thank you for a quick response. I might stay there for a while. my girlfriend asked those question and there is no tax on it since i am not Canadian and not entering a good in Canada!

Second, maintenance is up to date but I will get a whole tune up to play safe!

as fas as major issues (timing belt,brake pads, oil, filters everything is up to date).Miles: 130 000

tires are also new but they are not winter tires at all. I am not planning to drive my car during the winter in Canada. Once I get there I will park my car in an underground garage.

Should I get winter tires for the trip or all seasons tries are ok for late december trip?

Cheers!!

lilengineerboy · September 2006

Late December can be unpredictable around the snow belt. All season tires are acceptable although not optimal if they are newer and have good tread. Besides, the majority of the way, there will be no snow and it will be relatively warm and snow tires suck on good, dry, warm roads.
I would feel comfortable driving from FL to Windsor, Ontario, Canada or something.
So you have a well maintained car in good shape and getting a tune up just to be sure? I personally wouldn't have any issues with a road trip in that car.

thegraduate · September 2006

Miles: 130 000

With such low mileage, you should be just fine. I drive my 96 Accord daily with 166,500 miles on it.

Fukuyama · September 2006

yeah it had only one owner before myself. I t was a gift from my granmpa and I take care of my car. Well, all said I will drive my car up there!!!

jrovinsky · September 2006

I need help. I have a 1990 Honda Accord, ran out of gas. When I put gas in the tank, I can't get the car to turn over. I have had the distributor cap checked out, the entire distributor is okay. Checked out the spark, traced it back pretty far. What's up?

riverpro · September 2006

Thanks lastwraith, i did´n t explain correctly...i got the code 11 error and it´s the IMA sensor, i will try your solution. thanks

i have another problem today, i drive normally and turn on a street junction so i actioned the turn lights and when i go straight again the light switch come back to its position but the "turn sound" keept and faster as it sounds when you turn right or left, i checked with hazard and it´s normal and the turn sounds on left and right are good but in "no action" position it doesnt stop.
i replaced the fuse,(turn lights) and nothing happens...anyone can help???in the manual are pages 6-162 to 164 but i don´t have those pages.

thegraduate · September 2006

Maybe running it dry messed up your fuel pump? I've always heard it is bad to run a car out of gas because it can damage your pump (causing it to overheat because it isn't being cooled by gasoline like normal).

I'm no mechanic though, so don't take my word for it. I'm just speculating.

lilengineerboy · September 2006

If you ran out of gas entirely, it will take a little while for the pump to get fuel from the tank in the back of the car all the way to the fuel rail in the front of the car. Think of it like waiting for the water to get from the hot water heater to the shower.
An electrical failure (distributor) would be unrelated to the running out of gas.

1992rustbucket · October 2006

I have a 1992 Accord that also had a leak in the tail light. The way I found out was my passenger turn signal went out. The front left turn signal works at a high speed now.
I now need to trace a bad ground or power wire back to the turn signal since it won't correct with a new bulb and routine troubleshoot. Has anyone done this before? Any areas prone to wiring issues that I should check first?

Thanks!

ice1978 · October 2006

You might check what is called the main relay. It is located way under the dash above a silver box. there is a simple solution to fixing this because the new relay you can only get from a dealer and is 70 bucks. email me for more info

roycefink · October 2006

My daughter has a 1990 Honda Accord LX with electric locks & windows. The drivers door wont unlock with the switch or key. The manual lock moves just a little but won't unlock the door. Does anyone have any experience with this problem?

lilengineerboy · October 2006

I had this issue with a rear door and I had to remove the inside door panel and adjust the linkage from the lock acutator to the lock mechanism. If its not turning at all, you can try some lock lubricant first.
HTH

Fukuyama · October 2006

I don't see any post here related to A/C freon refill! I will post my question here. In case there is a post already, i will delete this.

My accord 90 is not colling well. and the freon saver looks foamy so freon level is low. Should I replenish the system or should I leak it all out and put new gas in ? any hints?

pastatie · October 2006

If you never had to service your AC in your 1990 the bad news is you will have to convert the system to the newer R134 freon. The old stuff is almost impossible to find and if you do hold onto your wallet. A basically competent service facility can do this service as well as check all your components in case you have a leaking condenser etc. Good luck.

lilengineerboy · October 2006

R12 is actually pretty easy to find...Pep Boys had it last time i was there. It is currently illegal to manufacture in the US, but our friends and neighbors to the south have no problems with it. Also, since most cars now use 134, the demand is much lighter for R12.
That said, the conversion really isn't that big a deal anymore. They leak test the system and change over a couple of fittings and then refill the system with R134 and PAG oil.
There is middle ground, there are freon types on the internet that claim to work for both or either. The issue is to find where the leak is coming from.

Fukuyama · October 2006

thank you man, If the freon is bad stuff I rather get the adaptor and use more nature friendly coolant gas. I am surprised you can get it in the stores!!!! CFC i mean!! How much would be the adaptation? more or less?

lilengineerboy · October 2006

Freon isn't bad if its sealed inside your AC system...its when it leaks out that its bad.
I would call around and get quotes from independent AC shops. I believe they change the valves on the system that are used for filling and emptying. A bigger and likely more costly issue is to find where the system is leaking from and repairing the faulty component.
Many times, components are pretty cheap on eBay, but you still have to have someone evacuate the system and then refill it after repairs are completed.

Fukuyama · October 2006

If there is a leak, it must be really really small. I replaced the saver 3 years ago and it has been working until now. so What I can do is to keep refilling the system once adapt it to good 'freon' AC problem would cost me big bucks ...i was asking about changing the 'adaptor' to use friendly freon...what could it be?

supra4life1 · October 2006

Someone please help me!:(. My Honda accrod 1990 Automatic is giveing me trouble!:( the S keeps blinking, and the car is loseing it's power when the S blinks. At first it runs great, then the S blinks and the car loses it's speed, and when I put the car on park and turn it off, it makes a loud noise like clak! what can it be? the car runs great untill the S starts blinking.

pastatie · October 2006

supra4life1
Go back to message 359 and start forward. You will most probably need a transmission control module but please read the posts to verify with what your symptoms are. Messages around #382 talk about it also. Putting it in park and getting a clunk is a new one but the S light is probably the key to your problem. Good luck.

mrlopez8 · October 2006

Hi,

My Gear shift handle has a button that turns on a sport green light on the dashboard panels. What is this for?

thegraduate · October 2006

If I understand it correctly, it raises the shift-points (for example it might shift at 3,500 RPM in Sport mode where it would normally shift at 2,700 RPM). I hope someone else will confirm this, but I believe that is what it's purpose is...it has a more aggresive shift pattern for sportier driving/acceleration.

chucks90accord · October 2006

ill bet its the fuel injectors because i almost did that once and my dad yelled saying i could mess the injectors up.. they will like freeze or dryout basically so have them checked

chucks90accord · October 2006

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET AN H22 COMPLETE SWAP LOCALLY I LIVE IN CALI THE BAY AREA CLOSE TO FRISCO LET ME KNOW PLEASE THANKS IN ADVANCE!

ronaldom · October 2006

The automatic transmission of my 92 Accord still crazy, some times it works great, other times it "turns on" the D4 light and really shifts (and lock) just the third gear. At these times it just accept to shift to first and rear gears "manually". The return to normal operation happens eventually, without previous notice or rule. I saw other people with the almost same problem, is the solution to change the transmission computer? Could I try to repair damaged components in the computer circuit? : :confuse:

user777 · October 2006

did you google it? there is a site where they rebuild these things - but there's also information out there that helps you read the code(s) from the thing if i'm not mistaken. having trouble searching tonight. you might take a look.

elroy5 · October 2006

I had the same problem with my 92 Accord. It was the computer (tranny). If you open up the computer, you should find black spots on the circuit boards where the capacitors have leaked on them. It will cost you a bundle for a new computer, so I would try to find one used. But be sure to open it up, and check out the boards before buying one. Good luck.

polarv8 · October 2006

hello all i have a 91 honda accord lx and when i start the car or it is in nuetral it revs up and down on its own continuesly i have looked at the throttle and the gas peddle ( or however it is spelled) and they are both fine. when the car is in drive and in first the rpm's never go down all the way and the car kinda accelerates itself can someone anyone tell me what the hell is going on? you can reply to me on here or at kangabear03@sbcglobal.net thanks everyone

uncfrk1 · October 2006

Just aquired a 92 LX with 86,000 miles. Fatherinlaw bought the car new. It has never been back to the dealer. It runs great and looks good (Garaged since new) Do I need to be concerned about the timing belt. How difficult is it to replace it with the kit and water pump? I would like to do the work myself.

elroy5 · October 2006

There are many "how-tos" on the internet. Do a search. You need to change it at 90k miles.

chucks90accord · November 2006

if it only has 86,000 dont worrie about the timing belt unless he use to drive it reall hard then ya might wanna have it checked other than that i wouldnt replace it till about 150,000 i changed mine at 200,000 never changed it before that it wasnt too bad just alil loose

chucks90accord · November 2006

does anyone here have a accord with h22 in it??

lilengineerboy · November 2006

if it only has 86,000 dont worrie about the timing belt unless he use to drive it reall hard then ya might wanna have it checked other than that i wouldnt replace it till about 150,000 i changed mine at 200,000 never changed it before that it wasnt too bad just alil loose

Given its age and mileage, I definitely wouldn't put it off past 90k. The engine is an interference design so when the belt breaks, the valves and the pistons try to occupy the same space. This makes a game over for the engine. While you are in there, most people change the tensioners and the water pump.
If you dont do this and the belt breaks, the engine sustains major damage and then you keep posting about how to find an H22 conversion instead of googling it or looking at the Sport Compact Car website where they did it in a project car.

elroy5 · November 2006

Not many here, but there are many who have made the swap. Try a search.

elroy5 · November 2006

if it only has 86,000 dont worrie about the timing belt unless he use to drive it reall hard then ya might wanna have it checked other than that i wouldnt replace it till about 150,000 i changed mine at 200,000 never changed it before that it wasnt too bad just alil loose

You are one of the lucky ones. There are many who waited, and were sorry they did (some have broken soon after 100k). If the belt breaks, your engine is usually not worth repairing afterwards.

thegraduate · November 2006

I think it is pretty labor intensive, but definitely DO the change, especially considering it is practically 15 years old. Don't avoid this, or you'll have a nice lump of metal that was once an engine.

Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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