Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

lilengineerboy · February 2007

Thanks for the tip...I am thinking we are coming from opposite directions though. I think a slightly more agressive exhaust note would be welcome, its kind of fun to hear the growl on exceleration. I typically stick to well known aftermarket brands and I've managed to do okay so far.
I think that is one of the things I don't like about the newer Accords, it feels like you are driving a Buick.

I think the one I am currently looking at is the Bossal or the Walker. I think the Bossal one might actually be OEM, I need to see if I can find out who Honda's supplier was back then.

elroy5 · February 2007

I'm sure there are quality aftermarket exhaust systems out there, but they probably cost just as much as stock. I guess if you want something louder, that would be the way to go. I just wanted to point out that cheaper, is not cheaper, in the long run.

dickdasterly · February 2007

I have a honda accord motor parts are 90-93 I have been working on it for a while and bought a lot of parts and it still isnt running.When I turn the key on the check engine light doesnt even come on.Where should I go from here?PLEASE HELP,THANKS dickdasterly

oscarm · February 2007

Yea you could do the repair yourself, there's a website that will help you it's called www.cb7tuner.com and www.Mycb7.com they are both dedicated to honda accords 90-93. The thread will be on DIY or you could just look around. The sell stuff as well... Later..... :shades:

dickdasterly · February 2007

Hi there
Hey man try changing or tapping on the PMG-FI main relay . Its located beside fuse panel under the dash. That relay controls the fuel presure and parts of the ignition. Try that and see if it helps GOOD LUCK!

ready_to_sell · March 2007

I bought a rebuilt head and installed it but the valves need to be tighted. The old guy at the parts store sold me a feeler gauge and said the trick is to turn the engine by hand and watch the cam shaft. When the round part of the part that looks like and egg is facing the rocker arm, that is the right valve to tighten. Will this work for an F22 head?

elroy5 · March 2007

This is only my opinion, but you need to do one of two things. Buy a repair/service manual for your car (Autozone, Advance auto) so you can "adjust" (not tighten) the valves the correct way. Or get someone who knows what they are doing, to adjust your valves. I think you would be better off with the second option.

dbailey1 · March 2007

Hi
Would appreciate if anyone out there can help.....my 92 Honda Accord is playing silly. Just recently when out driving the green "S" light starts flashing, the speedo stops working and the power starts to decelerate, it doesn't actually stop, and the check engine light comes on.

The fault doesn't usually happen when starting up but when I have been driving for say 1 to 2 miles.

The check engine light has been coming on for a month before the other stuff started happening but it would go off when I stopped the car and not make any difference to the running of the car, and might not come on again for the rest of the journey.

Thanks

cbhenry316 · March 2007

My son has a 1990 Accord LX with AT. After driving a short distance (a few blocks), the transmission appears to fail (vehicle does not move. Turning vehicle off and restart after a few moments restores operation for a few blocks and then problem reoccurs. I had him drive it to a shop and they determined the AT needs to be rebuilt. I will be able to supply additional info after I get possession of the car tomorrow. Has anyone seen or heard of this problem? Could this be Transmission Computer problem? I have seen a number of posts regarding problems with the computer. Thanks for any assistance anyone can provide.

elroy5 · March 2007

Here is a link concerning "S" light troubleshooting. It may shed some light on the situation for you. Good luck

http://techauto.te.funpic.org/vss.php

elroy5 · March 2007

cbhenry316,
If you have a blinking "S" or "D4" light you may want to read the link too. The computer will flash a code for you if you jump the service check connector. I would have to find the link for that, if you need more information.

hughhav · March 2007

I have a 1992 Honda Accord LX with 189,000 miles.I was replacing a half to a full quart of oil between regular oil changes. Recently the check engine light appeared and I was down 2 quarts. I replaced it and less than two weeks later I needed to replenish. What could be the possible problem areas to look for?

user777 · March 2007

stuck pcv valve.

elroy5 · March 2007

If the engine is not smoking (a lot), it has to be going somewhere. Is your coolant getting dark? Check the lower timing cover. If you blew a seal in there it will create problems with the timing belt in the near future.

mutterfluff · March 2007

Hi - I just bought a '91 Honda Accord LX with 187,000 miles on it. It seems to be running well for the most part and I'd like to keep it that way!

It has a little orange 'maintenance required' indicator on the dash... My husband can't see anything obvious wrong with it, (not a mechanic but good at preventive maintenance) and I just want to know what to look for. Also, sometimes while driving the wheel shakes a bit.. almost like one of the tires is going flat or something, but it only does that sometimes. What should I have checked?

Thanks!

elroy5 · March 2007

That little light on the dash is just a maintenance reminder. It will change colors every 6,000 miles (I think). You can reset the light by pushing your key into that little slot next to the light. It does not mean something is wrong with the car. That would be the "Check Engine" light. If that comes on, the computer has detected a problem.

thegraduate · March 2007

My 1996 has this minder as well, best I remember it turns yellow (from green) at 6,000 miles, then it turns red at 7,500 miles.

It is on the speedometer in my car, at the bottom (its not readable here, but you can get an idea of what it looks like... a little square that doesn't actually glow). The key slot you should insert the key into is just to the left of the colored reminder, and to the right of the gear indicator).

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397864 · March 2007

i have a 1992 honda accord and recently you could be driving and all of a sudden you would loose all engine power, help---help--help.

lilengineerboy · March 2007

Depending on how fast the oil is coming out, the seals around the cam, counterbalance shafts, crank and oil pump can leak. If its the oil pump/counterbalance shafts, it will be more catastrophic in scale.

sed1 · March 2007

I just had a similar problem, but it was a leak. Turns out it was a worn out o ring on the oil cooler, which is a small unit behind the radiator (I think). My mechanic fixed it for me for under $50 but it was pooling oil under the car.

397864 · March 2007

DOES ANYBODY KNOW HOW TO REPLACE THE FUEL FILTER ON A 1992 HONDA ACCORD?? HOW DO YOU RELEASE THE PRESSURE????????????

elroy5 · March 2007

The fuel filter is bolted to the firewall on the passenger side. The fuel line is very tight, and it's easy to kink the fuel line if you're not careful. You can release the fuel pressure by loosening the bolt on the top of the fuel rail on the driver side.

397864 · March 2007

thanks alot.

Fukuyama · March 2007

yes there is. I don;t know what to do ...what do you recommend me? rust is on the two lower corners on the rear window and it is getting a lot of water into the trunk

elroy5 · March 2007

Rust is very hard to get rid of. It's like cancer, if you don't get it all out, it will come back. Considering where the rust is (in the crease where the windshield is). A good body man, would be needed to fix the problem the right way (cutting the panel, and fitting and welding a patch). Even if you can seal it with silicone or something, it could last for quite a while, but eventually, the rust will win the battle.

quarli · March 2007

I know very little about cars but I was given a 1990 Honda Accord EX that needs work. This is my first car and on a low budget I can't afford to take it to a repair shop so I have full intentions of fixing it myself. So my first question of many is this. How do I go about discovering what all needs to be fixed?

mrbill1957 · March 2007

Part of having the knowledge to repair a car is the ability of diagnosing what is wrong with it.

Discovering "all it needs" is way to vague a question for a good answer here.

My suggestion would be to find a friend/relative/co-worker that can give you a hand looking over the car.

Mrbill

Mr_Shiftright · March 2007

First think you can do is play with every knob and switch and make a list of what doesn't work.

Then open the hood, look for cracked belts, old hoses, and corroded battery cables. That'll keep you busy for a while.

Jack it up on jackstands, pull off all 4 wheels, and inspect the brake rotors, brake pads and the struts/shocks for leaking oil.

Then crawl under there and look for oil leaks from engine and transmission, and for blown out CV axle boots that are torn or leaking.

How are the tires?

How are the wiper blades?

How are the air, oil and fuel filters?

OKAY! We've got you busy for a couple weeks easy :P

thegraduate · March 2007

Great post, Mister! Lot of good thoughts there.

user777 · March 2007

it's an accord. nothing needs fixing. your '90 has character.

here's where i'd start, following the other advice of course.

first things first, verify all signal lights (brake, turn, headlight, reverse) all functioning. use flashers, and another person to cycle the left/right, brake, hi-low, reverse.

i assume you'd be changing the oil yourself. assuming the oil is dark or you have no idea when it was changed last:

first stop: purchase any replacement bulbs needed, then a good set of ramps and 5qts oil of the recommended type and good quality oil filter. also purchase a nice oil basin and something to store the old oil in between trips to the recycling center.

when it's up on the ramps, you'll get a good look at the underside where you can begin inspecting the cv joints, exhaust hangers, exhaust and cat, and other things.

after driving it back down to level, i'd start systematically checking each fluid resevoir to see if the brakes, radiator, power-steering, or WW wiper resevoir is in need of a top off. if AT, i'd check the AT fluid level. i'd use only honda recommended fluid for the AT. by putting each fluid where it should be, when you check a few weeks later, you'll know if you have a possible issue.

i'd check the engine air filter: only about $15-20 to replace, and also the pcv valve (about $6-12). if you have the tools, i'd pull a plug and look at the condition.

i'd clean the battery terminals and assure the clamps on the lugs were tight.

then, not pressure wash and not flooding with water, i'd take a sponge and soapy water (avoiding the distributor and plugs, and anything electrical like the fuse/relay compartment) and I'd clean the whole engine compartment cautiously. this will get you familiar with where stuff is, and if something is loose, but it would also let you see what is leaking (if anything), and leave you with a cleaner engine where you can see in the future, what may be leaking. i'd be checking belts and hoses and clamps as shifty said. then very low-pressure / low-flow water to rinse stuff off, start it and let it idle to get rid of excess standing water.

a few weeks later, i'd put some clean paper under the vehicle (after cold) with rocks to hold in place so i could see if there's any dripping to identify by color and location where there's a potential problem.

well, that's what i'd do with a new to you vehicle. do as your funds allow, but be systematic hitting the important and low-effort stuff first. enjoy.

trouty · March 2007

i have a 90 lx coupe, f22a1 engine, threw a connecting rod, block has a hole. now ive got a f22b1 sohc vtec. i read 2 tech articles on this swap. one was just a head swap, the other was the entire engine block, which required driver side mount modification to clear the timing belt and front crossmember modification to clear the exhaust. im assuming both blocks should b the same but mayb not. i have all the accessories and mounts for the a1, and all the accessories for the b1, mayb just the front engine mount. is there any exhaust that will clear the front crossmember without modification?

scubasteve2383 · March 2007

ok so its been a long and frustrating battle.

so my drivers window will go up but not down.

one day it started acting funny..working then not..then working then not..then never again.

so i thought it had to be the window motor! so i bought a new one off of ebay...popped it in and it went up...but it wont go down...crap! so it must be the switch..gotta be...so i went to the junk yard found an exact one...asked the guy if i can plug it in real quick to check before i get it...i swear it worked...i bought it..took it home to install all of it..and it didnt work again...so i get a wire tester..of course all the other window switches on the board lit up...the up button for the drivers window lit up...but non of the remaining ones did for the bottom (not too sure what the botton wire is) so im thinking its a wire problem..i try to trace it to the fuse...but its to the fuse box in my engine so its a long journey....i lose track cuz it goes under the back of the block....but the fuse for that window was blown...maybe thats it..so i replaced it...still nothing...but guess what..that one blew also...still no luck with anything...so i took it to a local parts shop...the guy told me he would bet its the switch...but i could try to cut the up and down wires and switch them to see if the window would go down when i push the button up...so i did that...still nothing (just clicks going down now)...but i check with my test the end of the motor connector and both wires lit up that when and when back to normal only the up lit up. (with all this testing and what not i went through an entire package of fuses cuz they kept blowing)

so i took apart my old master switch...sure enough one side of the connectors was fried...so i took apart the one i got from the salvage yard but it wasnt fried at all so crap im back to i dunno....when i push up theres a click in the switch and the motor...so theres power...but nothing going down...

if i knew what wire and what i could do..i wouldnt mind taking a wire and jumping it from where it would come to the switch..to see if it will work and if so then just routing that one to it instead of tracing the stupid one in the harness behind the block

hope i made everything detailed enough...any help would be great...i want to be able to fix it like normal without it looking guetto..just wish it wasnt my drivers window that went out..thanks guys

sam79 · March 2007

Hi All,
I am using a honda ccord 92, with 130k.
It run fine during the first start.If i stop after 30 min, then iam facing problem in starting.
Iam waited for 10 min and tried agian, its works fine.
Can any one help me some idea before going to a mechanic.

lilengineerboy · March 2007

That sounds like a main relay issue. Google Honda main relay, the part is about $60-70 and takes about 20 minutes of being on your head under the steering wheel to install.

If you google that, it talks about the failure modes of the module too.

elroy5 · March 2007

This link may help you check the main relay. If you can do some soldering, you could fix it yourself. Good luck
http://techauto.te.funpic.org/

kelee1902 · March 2007

Does anyone know how to replace the front marker lamp assembly? Do I have to take out the headlamp assembly to access the sidelamp?

Ken Lee

scubasteve2383 · March 2007

ok so its been a long and frustrating battle.

so my drivers window will go up but not down.

one day it started acting funny..working then not..then working then not..then never again.

so i thought it had to be the window motor! so i bought a new one off of ebay...popped it in and it went up...but it wont go down...crap! so it must be the switch..gotta be...so i went to the junk yard found an exact one...asked the guy if i can plug it in real quick to check before i get it...i swear it worked...i bought it..took it home to install all of it..and it didnt work again...so i get a wire tester..of course all the other window switches on the board lit up...the up button for the drivers window lit up...but non of the remaining ones did for the bottom (not too sure what the botton wire is) so im thinking its a wire problem..i try to trace it to the fuse...but its to the fuse box in my engine so its a long journey....i lose track cuz it goes under the back of the block....but the fuse for that window was blown...maybe thats it..so i replaced it...still nothing...but guess what..that one blew also...still no luck with anything...so i took it to a local parts shop...the guy told me he would bet its the switch...but i could try to cut the up and down wires and switch them to see if the window would go down when i push the button up...so i did that...still nothing (just clicks going down now)...but i check with my test the end of the motor connector and both wires lit up that when and when back to normal only the up lit up. (with all this testing and what not i went through an entire package of fuses cuz they kept blowing)

so i took apart my old master switch...sure enough one side of the connectors was fried...so i took apart the one i got from the salvage yard but it wasnt fried at all so crap im back to i dunno....when i push up theres a click in the switch and the motor...so theres power...but nothing going down...

if i knew what wire and what i could do..i wouldnt mind taking a wire and jumping it from where it would come to the switch..to see if it will work and if so then just routing that one to it instead of tracing the stupid one in the harness behind the block

hope i made everything detailed enough...any help would be great...i want to be able to fix it like normal without it looking guetto..just wish it wasnt my drivers window that went out..thanks guys

elroy5 · March 2007

I do know the headlamp does not have to be removed. If I remember right, there is only one screw holding the side marker, on the headlamp side. Then the side marker pivots out toward the fender side. Look for screws between the headlight and the side marker. You may have to get to them from the top (hood up).

lilengineerboy · March 2007

IIRC, to replace the side marker lights, there is one screw on the top where the side lamp mounts and then the corner light housing will slide foward (it has two snaps that align it to the headlamp.
Once its out, you can replace the bulbs as necessary. I think there is also a spring holding it in place, but that might be me mixing it up with the other vehicle.

walis · March 2007

Hello everyone...I have a '92 Accord that I'd like to replace its valve cover gasket. I tried doing a search here for a possible guide but to no avail. If anyone has the link to getting the job done or can give some sort of guidance, please do so. I found my spark plugs soaked in oil when I tried to replace them. Any help would greatly be appreciated!
Thanks in advance!

lilengineerboy · March 2007

I think its a pretty simple affair. There is one vacuum line I had to remove and then its just the two silver bolts on top (and the spark plug wires).
The valve cover gasket kit will come with a new valve cover gasket, 2 new gaskets and rubber things to go around the silver bolts on the top, and 4 donuts to go around where the spark plug boots go through.

elroy5 · March 2007

It may not be as simple as changing the valve cover gasket. Unfortunately there are o-rings(under the rockerarm assy) that can also leak into the spark plug tubes. If you were to look down the tubes you would see two seams, one for the valve cover, and one for the o-rings. Cross your fingers, and hope the valve cover gasket solves the leak. Good luck.

Fukuyama · April 2007

just found out where the water is getting in. there are two channels on the roof which end on top of the rear window. Some how the two end are lifted and water is getting in. Any idea on how to take off those two 'straps' and put them back with no leakage? :confuse: :confuse:

397864 · April 2007

I HAVE A 1992 HONDA ACCORD, THAT YEAR HAS A FEW RECALLS, IF I BRING IT TO THE HONDA DEALER TODAY, AFTER ALL THESE YEARS WILL THEY STILL REPAIR THE PROBLEM FOR FREE

397864 · April 2007

THOSE STRAPS PULL RIGHT OFF

397864 · April 2007

I DON'T THINK THERE IS ANY WAY TO TEST THE BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH, ANYWAY THEY ARE NOT THAT EXPENSIVE, I WOULD GUESS THAT IS WHAT IT IS.

Fukuyama · April 2007

My rear driver's window is stuck(it goes down but not up). It is manual window(not electrical) and i cannot find the diagram....any help on this? Is it hard to fix by yourself?

user777 · April 2007

you can start here:

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1991&catcgry3=4DR+SE&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=REAR+DOOR+GLA- - SS

and here:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1991&catcgry3=4DR+SE&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=REAR+DOOR+LIN- ING

see if there's another diagram on another site for removing the interior panel "door lining", i.e. google for that. i think you will find it if you search for it. it's probably held in place by some clips and/or screws - there's probably an easy procedure for taking it off.

maybe the diagrams are enough.

once off, i imagine there's a good chance you can figure out mechanically what is wrong.

curious, is the window all the way down in the channel, and possibly stuck / inhibited from going up because it was rolled down too far? maybe a screwdriver to artificially situate it in the middle of the track so you can roll it back up.

elroy5 · April 2007

The run channels on these cars are very tight, and they get sticky when they are old and dirty. Many times cleaning the run channels (I would use alcohol) out good and applying some silicone grease on them (using Q-tips). The Shin-Etsu grease is what Honda sells and uses as a remedy. Pic below. The regulator may be shot by now, but greasing the run channels never hurts.

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Fukuyama · April 2007

hi user777,
I found that too. I was referring to where the cables that move the window up and down get in . I took everything apart. Window works just by pulling either one of the cable for up or down. Then i took the black plastic piece apart. Inside goes the cables, there is a base and a small rotor which is attached to the handler. Whne you go counterclockwise one cable is rolled in the small plastic drum and the other one gets loose and the other way around. Now i see one place for one of the cable ends (it looks like a bike's break system) but i don;t see wehre the other cable ends goes. So Everytime I try , that one jumps out of place and tension is lost resulting in window going down.

That is why i was looking for some diagram which i cannot find on the web, or any of your advice.

Thank you

Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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