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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • cstout73cstout73 Member Posts: 9
    Update - I got the front end kit from kargen - rented it. Ok so I got the ball joint apart!! Yes! I got the axle out. I put in the new axle and now have to make sure it fits into the transaxle. I am having a trouble "popping" it into place. Can I tap the "hub" end with a rubber mallot? Any tips for getting the axle into place?
    Thanks everyone for your help.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    If I recall correctly (and I might be confusing it with another car) is there is a clip that goes on the end of the axle where it gets inserted into the transmission, so the clip has a certain alignment and the splines have a certain alignment.
    I think I just had my hands over the transmission side boot cover and pushed it in.
    I am glad you got the tool to separate the lower ball joint, having the right tools makes that kind of thing so much easier and minimizes the risk of damaging additional parts.
    One more thing, as long as you have that much taken apart, you should check your front brakes. Removing the front rotors requires disassembly to right where you are at now.
  • cstout73cstout73 Member Posts: 9
    Update
    Completed The Job. I got the shaft in with a little help from a "crow bar" just to pop the shaft into place. I just gently persuaded into postion. The assembly went well. I've driven the car and it runs great.
    Thanks for the help!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Make sure you take it to have the alignment checked.
  • jasonb1jasonb1 Member Posts: 3
    hey, i have a 91 honda accord EX i js had the pistons replaced because there was a loud knocking sound.......
    after i replaced them all u can still here it when the rpms hit 3000.......
    and my cars acceleration is very slow

    does anyone have any ideas on what it could be???
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    Hi,
    I have maintained my honda 1990 but recently i have had to invest too much money on it. I wonder if it is time to let go. now i have the S light flashing but no loss of power and no problem with the transmission, just the annoying flashing..it is not always flashing...it comes and goes. should I replace the Electronic module ? I am just steps away to give up and get a newer Honda.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Here's a link to some troubleshooting, if you would like to try and find the problem yourself. Good luck
    http://techauto.bravehost.com/
    PS: Click on transmission (left side of screen) and then click on troubleshooting "S" light.
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    thank you elroy for the link. I guess I will have to get the box apart. I was going to get the repair manual and I found honda issued a 1989-1991 repair manual and th eother one is 1991-1993....I thought accord ran from 1990-1993...Which one you recommend me for accord 1990?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    It should be 90-93. 89-91 would be mixing two totally different cars.
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    this is what i got
    Honda Accord CB1 CB3 CB7 89 91 Service Manual zip
    and
    Honda Accord 1991 1992 1993 Repair Manual 1934 pages
  • kottkott Member Posts: 4
    My brake light is always on, and now the ABS light comes on when I start moving. All the fuses in the ABS box are o.k. and the car brakes fine.
    Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Check the amount of brake fluid in the master cylinder. Unless that is low and immediately fixes the lights, you should quickly get it to a shop to get your brakes checked. I can't believe you are driving around with brake error lights on.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    If I had to wager a guess, I would say it was an issue with the wheel sensors. The way ABS works is it measures the speed of each wheel, and if they don't match, it pulses the brake on the slowest wheel (or axle, in the case of 3 channel).
    Alternatively, it could be the ABS motor that pumps the brakes, but I am still leaning more towards a sensor.
    I believe there is a way to pull codes from the ABS computer (that should tell you what sensor is bad) but I am not aware of how to do it.
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    Please anyone that has the manual for honda accord , could you check the date of publishing? I got a pdf file ;) and it was published 10/89 by honda motor co. it is supposed to be ok for accords 89-91(CB1,CB3,CB7) inlcueded all european accord styles. I want to be sure before putting things apart

    thanks!
  • austinman7austinman7 Member Posts: 313
    I'm looking to buy a 1990-93 vintage Accord and drove a '90 yesterday with 167,000 miles on it that the fellow was asking $2,300 for. Seemed like a pretty good car, but the motorized shoulder belts were annoying. Do any of you know if those can be replaced with normal seat belts?

    I drive an '04 Accord LX as my primary car and am looking at this older Accord with a manual transmission as just a fun car to drive, which I find it to be. Plus, I like the looks of that vintage Accord. Is there anything in particular I should be looking for in terms of a common mechanical problem with this generation of Accords? Something to avoid?

    The '90 I drove had a few issues -- the clutch didn't engage smoothly, and some front end wobble at highway speed -- but it was amazingly quiet and tight, and the engine pulled strongly. These cars just seem to be screwed together so well, maybe better than my '04.

    Thanks for any advice, especially about the shoulder belts.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Either in 91 or 92 for sure Honda did away with the automatic belts. My 92 had regular belts. I think Honda stopped making them, because they had to warranty the repairs (safety issue) and it was costing too much. If I were you, I would try to find a 91-93 model without the automatic belts.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    and some front end wobble at highway speed

    Upper ball joints are integrated into the control arm, making the piece more expensive (~$100) but its pretty easy to swap out as a DIY thing.
    Tie Rods are about $35 and equally easy as a DIY thing. A wheel alignment is recommended after either one.
    To diagnose the tie rods, grab each front wheel at 3 and 9 and push with one hand while pulling with the other and alternate a few times. If there is play, tie rods are likely.
    For the ball joint/control arm, grab the wheels at 12 and push and pull. If it rattles, its likely the ball joint.
    I guess the torsion rod that goes from the lower control arm to the frame can also rot out, but I haven't seen that happen yet.
    If you get a '92 or 93, you get an airbag and no mouse belts. Front brakes are a PITA. Scroll back through the posts and see what you can find.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    1992 was the first year with typical seat belts (the year they did the mid-model change/tweaks). My grandmother had a 1991 DX with automatic belts. They were always fun to watch as a kid!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    My sister had a Toyota Cressida with the auto seatbelts. She said the novelty of them quickly wore off, because they were always in the way or needed repairs. I was glad when Honda did away with the auto seatbelts and the "sport shift", they were both problematic.
  • austinman7austinman7 Member Posts: 313
    Yeah, I believe the Edmunds series history on the Accord says the motorized belts were on the '90 and '91 models, but not on the '92 and '93 becasue they had airbags.
  • austinman7austinman7 Member Posts: 313
    Hey, thanks for all the good background information. I'll save it in case I wind up buying the one I drove the other day, or if I run into the same issues with another one.
  • dexter6dexter6 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 Accord EX 2.2. I have replaced both rear wheel cylinders, the Master, inspected for leaks, bled the system and replaced the pads, and the right front wheel bearing. However, when I turn all-the-way left or right the pedal goes to the floor and I loose all braking ability. When I straighten the wheel I get full pedal pressure and good brakes. I am stumped. Please help.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    That sounds like a bad line to one of the front wheels. I would check the connection to the caliper and where the soft line connects to the hard line. You might also want ot check all the clips that hold the soft line in place going to the wheel.
  • austinman7austinman7 Member Posts: 313
    Well, if anyone's interested, I got my answer to the question about replacing the motorized shoulder belt with a normal belt anchored on the side. Honda won't do it, as a matter of policy, since it involves a safety issue originally designed into the car.

    So, my search for a good used Accord will continue, focusing now on the 1992-93 models that have airbags instead.

    Also, I asked the body shop about fixing the rusted areas in the rear quarter panels at the front of the wheel housing, that showed up on the one I drove the other day. He said he'd do it, but not warranty it, since it tends to come back, sooner rather than later. Just wondering if any of you have had any luck fixing this problem in a more permanent way.

    Thanks.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Also, I asked the body shop about fixing the rusted areas in the rear quarter panels at the front of the wheel housing, that showed up on the one I drove the other day. He said he'd do it, but not warranty it, since it tends to come back, sooner rather than later. Just wondering if any of you have had any luck fixing this problem in a more permanent way.

    Once rust is there, there is very little that can be done to get rid of it. I would suggest searching for vehicles in climates less prone to rust/corrosion. This also makes maintenance much easier.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Yes, shop for cars here in the south. It is very rare to see a car with rust here in Alabama. I have an 11 year old Honda with absolutely no rust to be found.
  • cafetomcafetom Member Posts: 4
    Hello there,

    I apologize for jumping into this thread, but I am having a similar issue.

    on my 1992 accord LX, I just replaced my rotors, calipers, pads, ball joints, control arms, sway bar ends, and front wheel bearings. PHEW.

    I bled the front brakes and everything seemed to be going well. Suddenly, about 2 days after getting it all together, my brakes go to the floor, and there are NO leaks.

    The auto shop wants to sell me hoses, and I just don't see anything wrong with them. They don't bulge.

    Then they said that I need to bleed the rear passenger, then the front driver, then rear driver, and front passenger. Does this sound right as a possible problem?

    Did that person who started this thread have to replace their Master Cylinder?

    Also, the link you provided for bleeding brakes doesn't work. I am wondering if there is some mid-point bleeding needed?

    Tom
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If your brake fluid has never been changed (it should be changed every 3 years), you probably finished off your master cylinder when you bled the brakes.
  • cafetomcafetom Member Posts: 4
    thank you.

    Last time the brakes were touched was in 2001. Okay then. :)

    Can you give me the link to bleeding the brakes?

    Tom
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
  • cafetomcafetom Member Posts: 4
    Sorry my friend. It doesn't appear that this link is good. Can you try it and let me know?

    Tom
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    It works when I click on it. Maybe try copy and paste.
  • austinman7austinman7 Member Posts: 313
    That's an idea -- thanks.

    And to thegraduate in Alabama -- just send one of those rust-free 1992 or 1993 models, with low mileage of course, up to me in Kentucky, and all will be well. :)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    austinman7,

    My mom had a 1993 Accord EX. It was immaculate. No door dings at all over 7 years we had the thing (110k miles). We sold it on our Odyssey.

    It was honestly the best car my family EVER had. No rattles. No repairs. No problems at ALL.

    If I could, I might would trade my 1996 LX Accord for it today. I grew up in that car (the '93)!

    Good luck on your quest for a 92-93 with less than 200k miles though. Remember, we're talking cars that are 15 years old now. RELIABLE ones! :)
  • austinman7austinman7 Member Posts: 313
    thegraduate,

    As a certain ex-president used to say, I can feel your pain about letting that '93 EX get away from you.

    Your comments confirm my impressions from driving the '90 LX the other day. In spite of its slight front end vibrations, it was amazingly smooth and quiet at 70 mph. It just seemed so well put together, and this was a 167,000 mile car that needed a little TLC.

    I liked everything about it (except the mouse belt). The low cowl, the seating position, plenty of headroom. And the body design itself is very appealing to me. I think Honda just "got it right" on this generation. I envy those of you with a real nice model from this generation.

    I'm also driving some cars from the 1994-97 era, which I see you now have. Are you happy with that one? What would you say are the main differences from the 90-93 gen to the 94-97 generation, especially in terms of the "fun to drive" quotient?

    I'm driving an '04 Accord sedan, and my son has a '98 coupe with about 140,000 miles that we bought new for him, and it's still tight as a drum. But among those four generations, I'm still liking the '90 I drove.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    I liked the low hoodline of the 90-93 Accord, personally. I think it was tighter, lighter, and feels more responsive to me from a handling standpoint. I also like the interior better, and felt the greenhouse afforded better visibility.

    The 94-95/6 was available with VTEC (as was the '93 elsewhere), had a larger interior and trunk, and felt like it had a bit more shoulder room in the back. The later ones also had dual airbags vs the single driver airbag on the 92-93.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I still miss my first two Hondas. :cry:
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  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Excellent taste on the apprx. 1985 bike. You shoulda got the V65 Sabre. They have a front fender spoiler. :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    1985 bike. You shoulda got the V65 Sabre.

    You guessed it, 85. But the Shadow was fast enough for my first bike. I miss the car, more than the bike.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Before our beloved 1993 (maroon) we had a "Rosewood" '92 model identical to that one!

    AUSTINMAN,

    I never drove the 1993 (I was 13 when we got rid of it), but my 1996 is still lots of fun, if not particularly fast (its the 130 hp LX, non-VTEC version). At about 2,800 lbs, it's more spry than my 2006 EX, however. With new shocks (mine have 173k miles on them) I imagine it would be a real fun ride!). I love my 1996, and it has been a wonderful first car for me. The best part is that it still gets 28 MPG in my mixed hwy/city commute. Can't ask for much more from a 12 year old car.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    I think you should reconsider getting a second,older car "just for fun". Calculate the additional annual cost of the older car. Surely you can find something better and more fun to do with the $ in Austin. No offense,just my .02.
  • austinman7austinman7 Member Posts: 313
    blufz1,

    Well, if I lived in Austin you'd probably have a point, but here in Kentucky all there is to do is sit on the veranda, sip our mint juleps and wait for next year's Derby. ;)

    Hey, give me a break -- Edmunds is a place for people with above average interest in cars, right? I confess, that's me. :)
  • austinman7austinman7 Member Posts: 313
    lilengineerboy,

    Thanks for your perspective on the 94-97 gen, which I'm looking at, but the overall design just doesn't appeal to me like the 90-93 gen.

    I agree with all your points about the 90-93 models.
  • austinman7austinman7 Member Posts: 313
    thegraduate,

    Sounds like you have a nice 1996 model and are quite happy with it. As I said in the above post, I'm driving a few of those too, but the 90-93 gen has the styling appeal to me. Interesting that your 1996 Accord seems quicker than the 2006. Maybe the weight difference accounts for that.
  • djkotodjkoto Member Posts: 1
    I have a chance to get a 93 accord and VERY good aesthetic condition that runs well. the problem is I dont know much about cars and how long they can go, and it has 210k miles. I know any other car would probably blow up tomorrow with that millage, but does this accord still have enough life to get me to work and sometimes road trips?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That's impossible to answer. Statistically, the car is finished...that's the normal lifespan (and then some) for just about any car built on earth. But if it had excellent care, or perhaps a rebuild at some point, who knows how far it might go? Generally the bottom ends of those engines can last quite a while, but head gaskets and valves and camshafts can be pretty tired by 200K. When they talk about an engine "blowing up", it's usually not a thrown rod or bad crankshaft, it's usually a head gasket, or oil starvation and seizing because the engine has burned oil for so long and somebody forgot to check oil level. Also oil pumps can fail, etc.

    All I CAN say with some assurance is that you should pay very very little for a car with 210K miles on it, because you are in a high risk situation. Certainly not anything close to "book" value.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Interesting that your 1996 Accord seems quicker than the 2006. Maybe the weight difference accounts for that.

    Well, I didn't mean faster, just a little "lighter on its feet" when handling curves. It drives like a compact (which it is) while the 06 drives like a larger yet-still-excellent vehicle. The 2006 is definitely the speed AND economy champ though (that 2.4L is freakin' fantastic!).

    To clarify the weight/power issue, the 1996 Accord has 21.96 lb for each horsepower (2855 lbs, 130 hp), while the 2006 has only 19.26 lb for each horsey (3,200 lbs, 166 hp). Basically, my 2006 is as fast with 500 lbs on board as my 1996 is empty.
  • miyage007miyage007 Member Posts: 5
    I just signed in on this awsome site and maybe someone can help me with this problem. My 1990 Ex Accord just started making buzzing/clicking noise when the car is running and discovered that its coming from the return signal/hazzard relay.

    I replaced it but clicking noise is still there. Signalling to the left or right seems to work normally. Its pretty anoying when you have to go for a long drive. I also got the feeling that the relay itself will eventually die from this. Does the signal handle itself causing this? Maybe its worn? Anyone here has any idea on how to resolve this?
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    So,then,they don't have nice restaurants in Kentucky? :)
  • austinman7austinman7 Member Posts: 313
    Hmmmm...not sure how to relate eating out to the subject of my (obviously satiric) post. But we do have nice places to eat out, as you do everywhere. Of course, we practically invented gourmet dining, aka KFC. ;)
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