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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Just suggesting another way for you to spend your "second car/beater" money. Much more exciting than 2nd car insurance,repairs,etc. Just my .02.
  • tbarbe02tbarbe02 Member Posts: 2
    Ok, I have a problem. I just had my TCU replaced and in the process my battery was disconnected, now my radio which has an anit theft code on it will not work and is asking for a code. I purchased the car from someone a little over a year and a half ago. I have been unable to get the radio out to put a new aftermarket radio in. I do not know what the code is and not sure where I can find the code. Does anyone have a code or know where I can find the code or a "dummy" code to reset the radio.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If you can't find the code, you would have to get it from the dealer. If you have the owner's manual, it may be written down it there somewhere, or look in the glove box. It will be a 5 digit number. If you have to go to the dealer, you may need the serial # from the radio, so call before you go.
  • pcnashvillepcnashville Member Posts: 1
    scubasteve,
    I had a very similar problem with my 95 accord. I was ready to replace the window motor for the driver door...until I saw what a pain it looked like it was going to be. I hated evry time I had to pull up to a drive through! Guess what fixed it? A $5.00 can of CRC Silicone Spray! I generously sprayed the entire rubber window gasket inside the door from top to bottom that I was able to reach with the spray (don't get it on your paint!). Then I sprayed some on a rag and wiped it around the edge of the window glass. The very first time I tried it, it worked like brand new!! I know it sounds too simple, but it sure would be worth the $5.00 can of silicone spray : ) When I saw how good it worked, I did all four windows!

    let me know if it works...or at least helps.

    pcnashville.
  • tbarbe02tbarbe02 Member Posts: 2
    Do anyone know how to take a 1993 honda accord ex four door radio out? It is still stock with the tape and cd deck :( ....
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Google'd Link
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    I am trying to pull out the condenser fan and I don;t know how to access the lowest screw. (from under the hood?)... another thing my check engine light comes up randomly, no prob with the car though. The rpm when the car starts is 1000 then goes down to 600 ...is that normal? i just orderd tha haynes manual, since I couldn;t find it for free in the internet :confuse:
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    Can't help with the condenser fan at the moment but here is a link to get a code for the CEL. http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelpkeefe/HowTo_Codes.htm

    Follow the instructions there and you'll get your error code. Not sure on your vehicle mileage but I would guess it's above 100K (hey, our babies are getting old now) and if you aren't noticing drivability issues I'm betting on an EGR code or something along those lines. Be sure to post what you get though.

    The Haynes manual is decent for basic maintenance and a bit more, but if you are interested in the real nitty gritty you might want to consider the service manual from Helm Inc. The service manual combined with a Haynes make for a formidable combination!

    Good luck!
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    thank for the advice man. Yep check engine light ...code 12 (EGR system).... S light flashing codes 1,2,15 S light flashing has been documented on this forum before...I am gonna check the TCM 'cheap' resistor in the next days.

    About EGR, could I inspect the system without a vacuum gauge?

    cheers
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    You really should have a vacuum gauge for that but people have "gotten around it" by moving the EGR diaphragm up by hand and seeing if the car stalled. No change is a good indication your EGR flow is restricted in the passages enough so that cleaning is very needed.

    Some have even plugged the port with the diaphragm up to see if the valve could hold vacuum as well but again, a gauge is a cheap investment you will get use out of.

    If some of that didn't make sense please forgive me, I need sleep!
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    hi lastwraith,
    it makes sense, i will try it tomorrow. In case there is too much carbon around. Do I have to do the EGR port cleaning manually? or I could bu :lemon: y any 'magic liquid' at autoparts? :lemon:
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Do I have to do the EGR port cleaning manually? or I could bu y any 'magic liquid' at autoparts?

    This link is for a 95 model Accord engine, but it gives you an idea what "EGR port cleaning" means, and how to do it. Hope it helps

    http://members.troublecodes.net/hondadude/95AccordEGR.htm
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    oh thank you elroy. I thought Ih ad to drill out the egr plugs which didn't like the idea too much.... I have been looking for a EGR valve gasket around monteal , canada and the 'auto supply' store don't have them.....autoparts and autozone int eh US====99 cents... amazing!
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    hi lastwraith and elroy,
    I checked the EGR valve, drew vacuum on hte thevalve and the car turened off ...so valve is ok. one of the hose to the air intake (between the air filter and the throttle body) had no clamp around and was a bit out.

    since elroy toldme to check that link. I looked around and i saw dirt around the threottle body and air intake hose. so next step is to clean that region in and out.
  • mikeyatlmikeyatl Member Posts: 1
    1990 Honda Accord EX - Interior Lights

    The interior (overhead) lights in my car works only when 3 of the doors are open (i.e. FP, LR, RR). For some reason when I open the FD door my interior lights do not come on, nor when I put the key into the ignition switch and open the door there is not warning signal. Anyone out there is able to help?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i guess the switch in the FD is broken stuck in the "closed for continutity" position

    probably you have another switch broken in the closed position as well.
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    hi, i am getting a code 12 on my accord. supposed to be related to the EGR system. I followed the troubleshooting from autozone website.

    1. drew vacuum from the EGR , car stopped.
    2. checked vaccum FROM the solenoid valve , no vaccu,

    3. checked vacuum TO the solenoid valve, ok there is vaccum.

    4. there is power getting to the solenoid valve same voltage as the battery. (It was around 14 Volts!! is this ok value for voltage with the engine on?)

    Any other place I should look? thaks!
  • astorastor Member Posts: 30
    I have a 1990 Honda Accord EX 5 speed and have noticed a clicking sound while turning right in 2nd gear. While turning left in 2nd gear there is no noise at all. I have replaced both left and right front CV axles and I've been told by my Honda mechanics it's not an axle problem and I should not worry about it unless it gets worse. It's driving me nuts.
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    Not sure if code 12 is related to EGR flow but a working EGR valve could just mean that the passages themselves are plugged. That's what happened on mine. I had to drill out the passage plugs and manually clean the EGR passages.

    Then the flow is restored. With the passages blocked, the valve is basically out of the equation. Be carefuly after cleaning the passages though, as deposits left may clog the valve. Not that this really matters, you just may have to remove and clean the valve a time or two as the deposits work themselves through the system.
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    Any idea or link how to do this? Elroy sent me a link but the honda 1995 system is different. Thanks for the hint though. I have been driving my car and I haven't noticed any problem in the driving. I want to get rid of that check engine light though!!

    cheers
  • geonerdgeonerd Member Posts: 8
    Disconnect the two lead wires from the solenoid. Hotwire it with 12V An idling car should stop almost immediately. If it doesn't stop at all, the solenoid is bad (does it make a 'click' when energized?) or the solenoid ports / valving is plugged. If it stops only after several seconds, the solenoid ports may be partially clogged.

    I chased a code 12 (1992 I4) for a month before taking a small drill bit to the output port. No more light! The ECU expects the EGR valve to rise within a limited time. If it's slow, you get an error.

    14 V sounds a tad high. Are you sure the voltage is applied to the solenoid all the time? That might imply an ECU issue, or wiring problem. It should also stall the car, unless the solenoid is toast. Have you measured the resistance across the sol. leads?

    -Greg
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    hi geonerd,
    I will follow your recommendations tomorrow. But I remember I checked the solenoid voltage and there should be 12 Volts feeding the solenoid at all time. Why should it be hotwire?

    14 Volts I measured on the battery poles. I found out it is ok . Voltage should be higher when the car is running due to the charge coming from the alternator
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    14.4 V is common with a running vehicle and no cause for alarm. A lot of car audio gear gives specs at this rating even.

    Anyway, this is the link you will be interested in for cleaning the egr passages. Let us know how you make out!

    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/t2t013.pdf

    -Keith
  • toyoman1toyoman1 Member Posts: 52
    I have a 5 speed coupe and I was wondering how do I remove the shifter knob. Is this possible to do without removing the console or do I need to remove the console!? Thanks and happy motoring. :)
  • fonge920fonge920 Member Posts: 5
    On my way home tonight in my 1993 Accord, my interior lights and all other eletrical was fine (including highbeams), but my lowbeams would not work. I wasn't sure if I should drive with no lights or with my highbeams on, but the friendly cop who pulled me over (who I happened to also run into last night, and the same darn guy pulled me over two weeks ago! dandy.) suggested highbeams. Are the lows and highs on different fuses?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    woa, tough one.

    i'm looking at a 2002 schematic, not the same i know, but it implies that when you turn the headlight switch from OFF, to PARK, to HEAD, two relays pick up (one for both the L and the R headlight assemblies). downstream of the relay contacts is a 20A fuse for each headlight.

    when you turn the stalk switch to HEAD, immediately, power should be applied to both relays, closing the relay contacts, supplying 12volts to the low-beam filament in each headlight assembly.

    then, when you select your high-beams, an additional circuit is completed to also apply power to the high-beam filaments.

    now, if this '02 circuit is anything like the '93, your observation implies that the headlight relays for Right and Left are working. Your Headlight switch on the stalk is also working, and finally, the fuses downstream of the relay contacts feeding the L and R headlamp assemblies are both good.

    otherwise, you wouldn't be able to have ANY lights H or L.

    so, i have to ask...

    is it possible (and this is a wild guess and assuming the circuit is like the '02), that you had one bulb (low) burnt out and that you were driving that way for some time (it can happen) when the other burns out, and then and only then you noticed you had a problem with the lowbeams?

    you can remove the bulb and look on each and see if one of the two filaments is bad, or use an VOLT/OHM meter set to measure resistance / continuity and see if the filament is broken.

    or, even more simply, you can go down to a local auto parts store (NAPA, Autozone, Pep-Boys, etc) and ask them to help you replace one headlight bulb to see if the low-beam in the replaced bulb works, then if so, put another one in on the other side.

    let us know.
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    Found an underhood diagram for you: image

    and an interior one, though I doubt this is applicable for what you are looking for. Also, I'm pretty sure this is missing some items but I think the under-engine one is the one that's important in this case anyway: image

    good luck
  • fonge920fonge920 Member Posts: 5
    Turns out I was being a dingbat.

    On the steering column, the lever was pushed forward into highbeam position the entire time. So, when I put my lowbeams on and saw the light on the dash for highbeams I was confused - and turned my lights onto parking lights, thinking that was where my lowbeams were. Real stupidity :P Of course, I didn't figure this out until going through both fuse boxes and replacing both lowbeam bulbs.
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    well then, at least you "fixed" it :)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Sounds like a true "D'Oh!" moment.

    Don't worry, we ALL have our moments. The option is whether or not we admit to them ;)
  • m_brown84m_brown84 Member Posts: 4
    I have owned my Accord for about five years now. The former owner took excellent care of the car, yet it is beginning to give me problems. One of the most consistent problems seems to be coming from the harmonic balancer. I have had this particular part replaced twice within less than a year. My mechanic tells me that this is a common problem with Hondas around the early 90's. Has anyone else experienced or heard of such a problem?
    Also, my brake pedal has recently begun to go straight to the floor on occasion. This particular problem only occurs when the A/C is running. I just pump the brakes once or twice and they return to their normal state of operation. Any ideas?
  • chad_accordchad_accord Member Posts: 1
    I bench bled the master cylinder, and bled all the brakes in proper sequence. and i still have spongy brakes. the brakes are only spongy when i turn on the car. when the car is off my brakes work fine. is there anyone who might have any suggestions?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    the brakes are only spongy when i turn on the car. when the car is off my brakes work fine.

    Check for a vacume leak going to the brake booster or the booster itself. When the engine is not running, the brake booster is not in operation. If you spray carburetor/injector cleaner on the vacume hose it makes the leak easier to find. When you spray the leak it will make the engine idle change, then you've found your leak. Good luck
  • bgayerbgayer Member Posts: 1
    Having a hard time removing the valve cover to my 92 Accord. Removed all necessary bolts/hoses etc. and expected it to lift off rather easily. It won't budge. Tried knocking it with a rubber mallet to no avail. Any suggestions/helpful hints? Unsure as to when the last time it was off. Need to replace gasket(s).
  • sed1sed1 Member Posts: 8
    I haven't taken my Accord's valve cover off, but through the years have worked on some Chevys. We used a putty knife, being extra careful not to gouge the block/head. The gaskets cook on and sometimes are difficult to get off. Hope that helps, but you might want to wait for some of the more technical (competent) posters to reply.
  • cownuttz70cownuttz70 Member Posts: 1
    Hey every one. I have a 1992 Honda Accord (2door 82,000miles) I been having some problems. Sometimes the car does not start. For instance, I turn the key but we get no start up. Most of the time you must wait a bit than it will start(Aparently from the heat it does not start) Now today the car didn't start for an hour than it started. When it did, the green light that surrounds the "D4" on the dashboard was blinking. It usually will stay constant. But it was blinking. When i would hit the gas the car would drive but like it was not driving in full drive motion. It was just moving slower as usual. Once, I turned off the car and restarted it the light was not blinking anymore and drives fine. This is something I can not deal with everyday. I don't have the money to get a new or used car. I must Rock out with this one. It only has 82,000miles on it. I know it needs "required mantainance" but i don't know if that has any relation to the problem. ANy one have suggestions? Or has this happened to anyone?

    HELP!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The same thing happened to my 92 Accord. I think your transmission computer has crapped out on you. If you were to open the computer up, there are probably black spots on the circuit boards where the capacitors have leaked on them. I would try to find a matching used computer, because a new one will cost about $500. Good luck
  • nonyononyo Member Posts: 1
    I had a problem where my brake pedal went to the floor on my 91 Accord. Pumped once and the would work again. A brake pedal going to the floor is apparently the sign of the brake master cylinder being worn out (seals worn out). When I mentioned the symptom to the dealer service dept. they immediately said you need a new master cylinder. They replace mine. The problem is gone.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i think refurb is probably $200
    http://www.autocomputersupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=241

    http://www.enginecontrolunit.com/ecu.htm
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Sounds a lot better than the price of a new one :) . You just have to make sure it's a perfect match with the computer your replacing.
  • keyon19keyon19 Member Posts: 11
    I have a 1990 Honda accord Lx with very low miles but the (S) light stays on, it doesn't blink or anything and the car will only stay in one gear and thats 1st (it's an automatic). could someone PLEASE tell me what the problem is...
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    This link has all the information about the "S" light, and what to do about it. Good luck Link below
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    Heat related starting problems are often the main relay in our vintage of accord. There is plenty on the forum regarding checking on that.

    Most likely the blinking D4 and sluggish performance mean the car is in "limp-home mode" which starts you in second gear. Pull the codes from the trans computer and any from the main computer and work from there.

    $200 isn't a terrible price for the TCU from a place that repairs and resells but I got mine from a yard for only $75. Just make sure it's a match as someone else mentioned.

    good luck
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Some posts about a Protege problem have been moved to a more logical place. Here's the link: keyon19, "Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair" #3170, 11 Aug 2007 2:16 pm.
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    hi keith, I got the link you posted about the egr passages. I do't think I could do it since i have no garage or drive nor the special hammer to get the plugs out. I went to a mechanic here asking for how much would be to clean the egr ports. He inspected my car, and said the following. If I were you, I wouldn't touch the egr ports nor the throttle body. It is an old car. and the code 12 won't let you stall on the road. He told me to buy some fuel injector cleaner and next time i fill up, put premium gas with the injector cleaner stuff, and speed it up.

    Should I go to another mechanic? Pet boys or autozone or somehting else and get it fixed? :confuse: :lemon: :confuse:
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    How do you know the match for your TCU ? I thinking of getting one just incase. S light comes on and off once in a while. It has not given me any shift trouble though
  • keyon19keyon19 Member Posts: 11
    I want to know if a 1993 honda accord lx ecu can fit on a 1990 honda accord lx?
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    I don't think so, I think the 90-91 are occasionally compatible and the 92-93 but I don't think you an go over that big a range. When we fried the computer in the 91 LX wagon, it got the brain from a 90 sedan, but we might have compared ROM program dates or some other measure.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The 90-91 Accords had the sport-shift, and the codes would be flashed by a light on the computer itself (I think). The 92-93 Accords didn't have the sport-shift, and the codes were flashed using the "Check engine" light and D4 indicator. So there are at least two differences. Not sure how different the plugs are, but the numbers need to match up, for things to work properly.
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    The codes on my '90 will flash on the computer itself (as you said) and I believe if you trip the service jumper on the passenger side they will display through the CEL as well.
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