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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    Apparently no one knows what a "slide hammer" is even though it's pretty self-explanatory (or everyone was just being stupid the day I asked in 3 different places) but I picked one up from Auto Zone. It is marketed there as a dent puller, but it's exactly the same item. It was under $20 US.

    In my opinion your mechanic is being difficult. Yes, we know it's an old car but that doesn't mean you give up on it. This is basically a maintenance procedure, like changing the timing belt. Also, what does stalling on the road have to do with it? It won't pass emissions with the code 12 so it has to be done. Seems like an odd thing to say to a customer.

    I don't really see any downside or danger in cleaning out the EGR ports or throttle body unless it is done extremely carelessly (allowing the crud to fall where it shouldn't). So I do not understand the mechanic's hesitation to do the procedure unless he just did not want to do it for some other reason. In my opinion, and based on what I have read online, additives are not going to be able to do much considering how long the carbon has been accumulating and also because of just how much it sticks to the passages. Physical cleaning is pretty much a necessity on cars of this age. And again, there is no downside I am aware of (if you are not careless about it). It is also (from what I have read) possible that an engine with improper EGR flow can hurt itself over time due to excessively high combustion temperatures (though this is only in certain specific situations).

    I would take it to a trusted independent with a printout of the procedure from that PDF and ask what they want ($) to do the job.

    -good luck
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    The easiest way I know of is to remove the carpet on the passenger side and write down the number on your TCU and match it with the replacement.

    I hope I answered all your questions.

    -good luck and don't forget to tell us how it goes!
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    good idea keith,
    Problem is I am in mntreal, Canada. I am gonna take to Canadian Tire (big store) today. I discovered this morning cooler is leaking extremely slow from the bottom of the engine.I found in a different forum a person with the same code 12 loosing bits of coolant on and off(not continuously). So I will take it to that place. Good idea about the manual and bringing to the mechanic...Somehow, I noticed they didn;t know what I was talking about when I said egr port plugs . I will keep you posted.

    To give you an example. I could not find a slide hammer around here(Montreal). I had to ask a friend to mail me some throttle body gaskets (1.99) and a few egr gaskets(99 cents) from Miami because I couldn't find them here...they guy at the store told me to build the gasket myself from rubber and epoxy....go figure!
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    well keith,
    I left the car at the store, told them to call me when they were ready to look at it and give me an estimate of the work, as you told me I left the pdf file with them. 5 hours later I was called . When I got to the store they had gotten under the hood and did what I didn't even ask. end of story, I didn't pay for what they did since i was not even given an estimate. the argument got really rough, the guy in charge even told me that cleaning the egr passages will definitely damage the manifold. I guess they are used to ripping people off.

    So the egr ports were not cleaned. I will buy the slide hammer and do it myself

    I noticed a small coolant leak so I inspected and it is coming out of one of the ATF cooler hoses (the one on the condenser fan side) . The coolant looks like coming between the big nut that holds the pipe to the radiator. My question is Can I unscrew/screw over that pipe ? The manual I have doesn't show the dissemble of such part..I am posting the pic so you can see what I am asking about.

    image

    My question is . Can I take that piece off the radiator body, clean it, tighten it back or should I replace the whole radiator?
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    The radiator uses plastic tanks. This means it cannot usually be repaired. I have cobbled together sleeves and tried to re-enforce cracked areas on the SE-R, but the new radiator for the Civic(Koyo)was only like $60 on eBay.
  • lmgrizzlelmgrizzle Member Posts: 5
    The brake fluid in my clutch reservoir keeps getting low. I keep having to add fluid or else my clutch pedal sinks. I've checked around the reservoir and don't see any fluid around. Where else could it be going and how do I fix it?
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    The brake fluid in my clutch reservoir keeps getting low. I keep having to add fluid or else my clutch pedal sinks. I've checked around the reservoir and don't see any fluid around. Where else could it be going and how do I fix it?

    I had to replace the slave cylinder for the clutch.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    It would be dripping on the ground, underneath your car. See any fluid on the floor in your garage?
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    I had no external leaking on mine.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    it had to be going somewhere. it's supposed to be a closed system right? probably it was dripping out where it was not immediately noticed, perhaps onto the frame or another part and got either burned off or spun off or pushed off when the vehicle was at speed.

    it wasn't evaporating. (at least i don't think it can do that). :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If it's anything like a brake master cylinder, the fluid just bypasses the seals on the shaft causing a loss of pressure, but nothing leaks externally.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Well his original post was that the resevoir continually gets low, and he has to refill it. It's leaking out somewhere!!
  • rommerskrommersk Member Posts: 1
    Where is the TCU located on a 91 Honda Accord LX?
  • lmgrizzlelmgrizzle Member Posts: 5
    It's parked on stained asphalt so it'll ba heard to tell. I guess I'll put a rag or something directly below the cylinder and let ya know.
  • wildone1wildone1 Member Posts: 1
    The problem started with both front brakes sticking, (bring you to a stop with no brakes applied @ 35 mph). I have replaced front calipers, master cylinder, front rubber brake lines & proportioning valve. All new except, proportioning valve (salvage yard). I have bleed the brakes all 4 wheels. The problem now is one of the front brakes is still sticking. If I bleed the one that is sticking, then the one that was turning is sticking.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Well IMO your symptoms point to the master cylinder, lines, or proportioning valve not releasing the fluid back into the master cylinder when you release the brake. But you've swapped out everything but the lines.

    Is the brake pedal itself working freely, with spring return?

    Are there some other clues here that you haven't given? Like dirt/rust got into the mastercylinder (and may be lodged in the line), or the car was in an accident (and may have a pinched brake line), or ???
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Something I just thought of :surprise: . Did you make sure the rod on the new master cylinder was the same length as the one you removed? If the rod is too long, it will not fully release the brake pressure. Hope you find the problem,,, good luck.
  • scarface357scarface357 Member Posts: 4
    ok if you have a intake on your car thi is the problem when you have and intake the car will run more faster reason why is because is sucking more air the reason why your rpm goes up and down even if you dont have an intake on it ok adjusted by disconnecting the electrical connector from the air control (iac) valve ,and pry out the concealment plug from the throttle body then close to that vacuum theres a screw like inside a hold turn that screw to optain the specific idle the original should be 75000rpm but depending on the condition of the car i normally recomend to 10000rpm if need more help write back good luck
  • scarface357scarface357 Member Posts: 4
    you either have air in the lines or you need to check the back brake the bushings make sure their not leaking on that your calipers are good usually if you put one caliper the other goes bad normally i recomend to put both new caliper good luck
  • scarface357scarface357 Member Posts: 4
    check the clutch release cilinder and meake sure is not leaking or corrude of dirt or anithing also check your lines and make sure their not broken or anithing
  • flipper7flipper7 Member Posts: 1
    Hi All,

    This is my first ever post. I have an automatic 1991 Accord EX w/ 200K miles on it. The car no longer starts and it is stuck in park. I can shift into neutral using the key unlock mechanism on the shift console, but the car won't start in neutral either. All relevant fuses are OK. The engine cranks great but when you let go of the key at the last On position it completely dies. Also of relevance is the fact that my brake lights work and the volt meter shows the battery is plenty good when you're cranking it.

    The engine light is not on but jumping the service port reveals the S light blinking codes 1, 2 7 and 8. These have to do with the lock-up control solenoid valves and the shift control solenoid valves. Following the trouble shooting guide in my Honda manual indicates all four wires going to the respective solenoids have a short in them between the TCU and the first connector in the engine compartment.

    Has anyone had a similar problem? I am partly wondering if the TCU is just plain shot. I'm also wondering if I'm missing something. Even if these two solenoids are not working shouldn't the car at least start in neutral?

    Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!
  • makahagurlmakahagurl Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1990 accord and my shifter won't shift out of park. It only shifts when I put my key in the shift lock release. Can someone please help me!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I am partly wondering if the TCU is just plain shot.

    You could open the TCU up and check it out. Usually the capacitors leak and there are easy to see black spots on the circuit boards.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I have a 1990 accord and my shifter won't shift out of park.

    Do you hear a click when the brake pedal is pushed (you should hear the solenoid in the console release when you push the brake pedal)? Do the brake lights work right? If not, the brake pedal position switch may be out of position or inoperative.
  • makahagurlmakahagurl Member Posts: 3
    No, I don't hear a click and my brake lights aren't working. I just replaced the bulb and they're still not working.
  • mako0201mako0201 Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my '96 Accord. I was told that my brake light switch has gone bad and needs to be replaced. The part costs about 30 bucks. I'm going to try to replace it myself.
    If anyone has experience replacing brake light switch on Accords please post instructions.
    Thanks
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    I have the same problem with my '96 Accord. I was told that my brake light switch has gone bad and needs to be replaced. The part costs about 30 bucks. I'm going to try to replace it myself.
    If anyone has experience replacing brake light switch on Accords please post instructions.

    Just out of curiosity, why wouldn't you just blow the $7 and buy the Haynes or Chiltons repair manual that will give you a step by step instruction and some pictures to boot?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The brake position switch is located either above or below the brake pedal arm. You may have to remove the small panel at the bottom of the steering column to see it. Good luck
  • lmgrizzlelmgrizzle Member Posts: 5
    The cheapest price I have seen for getting a check engine light diagnostic is $50. For that price I can pick up a diagnostic tool at Advance or wherever. Is there any advantage to going to a mechanic for this? Do they have fancier diagnostics? Are the ones at auto parts stores not good? My light is on!
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    You can have the diagnostic read for FREE at AutoZone.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    You don't need anything to read the codes for that car, IIRC. You just need to put it in display mode and it blinks the light. The code readers typically only work with OBDII.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Your car is OBD I, so it has no port to plug the diagnostic tool in. You have to short the "service check connector", and count the blinks (from either the check engine light, or the D4 light) for engine and transmission codes. What you need is a shop manual for your car, that has the codes and diagnostic flowcharts to find the specific problem. Some of the testing also requires special tools, so even if you do have the know-how, you still need tools for testing (multi-meters, and vacume pumps are commonly used in testing). It costs a few bucks to get started, but if it saves you one trip to the dealership, it can pay for itself over and over. Good luck

    I start out with a factory shop manual for each car or truck I own, and buy tools for testing as I need them. I haven't used a professional Mechanic in a long time.
  • alwaysmuvinalwaysmuvin Member Posts: 2
    this is a wierd one i have a 1993 honda accord that runs great in cool weather but wont start if the outside temp is75 degrees or so. engine turns over just fine it just wont start. what is wierd is that if it starts it will restart even though the engine is warm. has anybody ran in to this problem and if so what was the fix.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Click on this link. It may be your problem. Good luck

    http://techauto.awardspace.com/
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    2nd vote for main relay
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    3rd vote for same.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    what is wierd is that if it starts it will restart even though the engine is warm.

    The main relay is inside the car, so the engine being warm has no effect on it. When the inside of the car is hot, that's when the main relay will fail. After the inside of the car has cooled, the car will usually start. Did you click on the link, and read about the main relay?
  • makahagurlmakahagurl Member Posts: 3
    i fixed my car...yay...it was the damn fuse...the previous owner used the wrong damn fuse...well thankz for all your guyz help...
  • lmgrizzlelmgrizzle Member Posts: 5
    I already have the manual for my car. I've done numerous repairs on it myself but haven't had to do the check engine light check until recently. I did t according to the manual and it read off a code 43, which isn't in the manual (it only has the more common ones). I looked it up online and found that it has something to do with the fuel delivery and usually indicates an oxygen sensor replacement, which I got done (couldn't get the darn thing off!). The check engine light still comes on even after a reset. I'm about at the point where I just take it in. Any other ideas on a code 43?
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Code 43 is fuel delivery, right? It could also have something to do the fuel lines, the fuel pump, a vacuum leak, or a couple of other things. I never had to debug that, but on another vehicle, the old vacuum lines were an issue.
  • alwaysmuvinalwaysmuvin Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the insight guys. Ill be changing out the main relay this week.
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    Sorry, been away for a while. This link has been posted before but it's a good one.

    Has location and removal info on the ECM and TCM, code lists for both straight from the Helms service manual (including #43 ), how to jump the service connector to get the codes to display, and good stuff like that. Hope this link helps!

    -Keith
  • rrr2rrr2 Member Posts: 2
    I am not getting any spark to the spark plug. any suggestions on what to look for.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    I am not getting any spark to the spark plug. any suggestions on what to look for.

    My '93 was on its 3rd distributor...I would check the output from the distributor.
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    hi keith,
    Finally I found a mechanic that cleaned the 4 egr ports.90 $(he did a really good job). I Reseted the computer, still code 12. I will change the egr valve and see what it gives. :confuse: :confuse:
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    I forgot to ask something about the code 12(related to EGR valve).I have noticed the check engine light turns on while driving the car. If the car is parked, I let it run in idle until hot and then I get the rpm over 2000 steady, check engine light never comes up.

    The manual says EGR valve activates when the car is hot and rpm is over 1800 , but doesn't mention anything whether car must be in gear or idle. Any suggestion?
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    I'd have the mechanic check the EGR valve and the electronic solenoid that controls it. I don't think the car needs to be in gear or anything. It just has to be hot (since before that the car runs in a different mode) and over the required RPMs.

    It certainly doesn't hurt that you had the ports cleaned either so don't feel bad about spending money there. It was going to have to be done at some point in the near future anyway. Here is an excerpt I found regarding code 12.

    -----------------
    You are on the right track. Keep chugging, I will help you out a little.
    The code 12 you are getting is indeed an EGR code, but cleaning your ports out will not fix THAT problem. What you did will eliminate any hesitation you may have been experiencing. (Very common on that accord, especially around 1,800 rpm when car is warm)
    The code 12 has to do with the solenoid you mentioned and also the EGR valve itself. Even though the valve holds vacuum does not mean the valve is good. You see the valve has a "lift sensor" built into it. (this is the connector that you see on top of the valve) If the lift sensor goes bad, it will send a false reading to the PCM saying that the valve is not up, and in turn give you the code 12. There is a way to check the valve with a DVOM. I do not know the specs off the top of my head but you can almost bet your last dollar that it has a bad EGR valve. I have replaced quite a few of those myself. I would recommend you go to a salvage yard if you can't afford a new one.

    ---------

    Anyway, good luck and let us know what happens!

    -Keith
  • confused5confused5 Member Posts: 5
    If anyone sees this tonight and can answer me, I'll be most grateful, and so will my battery. My 1990 Accord is off, the lights are off, but the brake lights won't go off. It's 11 o'clock at night, so I can't run to a mechanic. Is there some way to disconnect the lights until morning to save my battery, and then reconnect them when I go to the garage?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I don't know how to help you with the brakelights, but it seems like disconnecting the battery for the night would be the easiest thing to do. Hope this idea helps you. Sorry I'm not more mechanically inclined.

    I would think you could remove a fuse to cut the brake lights, but I'd be afraid to do so. Disconnecting the battery is easy.
  • confused5confused5 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks, thegraduate. I'm really ignorant about cars; how do I disconnect the battery, and will it do any harm? Can I reconnect it in the morning and expect my car to run?
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