Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    Apparently no one knows what a "slide hammer" is even though it's pretty self-explanatory (or everyone was just being stupid the day I asked in 3 different places) but I picked one up from Auto Zone. It is marketed there as a dent puller, but it's exactly the same item. It was under $20 US.

    In my opinion your mechanic is being difficult. Yes, we know it's an old car but that doesn't mean you give up on it. This is basically a maintenance procedure, like changing the timing belt. Also, what does stalling on the road have to do with it? It won't pass emissions with the code 12 so it has to be done. Seems like an odd thing to say to a customer.

    I don't really see any downside or danger in cleaning out the EGR ports or throttle body unless it is done extremely carelessly (allowing the crud to fall where it shouldn't). So I do not understand the mechanic's hesitation to do the procedure unless he just did not want to do it for some other reason. In my opinion, and based on what I have read online, additives are not going to be able to do much considering how long the carbon has been accumulating and also because of just how much it sticks to the passages. Physical cleaning is pretty much a necessity on cars of this age. And again, there is no downside I am aware of (if you are not careless about it). It is also (from what I have read) possible that an engine with improper EGR flow can hurt itself over time due to excessively high combustion temperatures (though this is only in certain specific situations).

    I would take it to a trusted independent with a printout of the procedure from that PDF and ask what they want ($) to do the job.

    -good luck
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    The easiest way I know of is to remove the carpet on the passenger side and write down the number on your TCU and match it with the replacement.

    I hope I answered all your questions.

    -good luck and don't forget to tell us how it goes!
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    good idea keith,
    Problem is I am in mntreal, Canada. I am gonna take to Canadian Tire (big store) today. I discovered this morning cooler is leaking extremely slow from the bottom of the engine.I found in a different forum a person with the same code 12 loosing bits of coolant on and off(not continuously). So I will take it to that place. Good idea about the manual and bringing to the mechanic...Somehow, I noticed they didn;t know what I was talking about when I said egr port plugs . I will keep you posted.

    To give you an example. I could not find a slide hammer around here(Montreal). I had to ask a friend to mail me some throttle body gaskets (1.99) and a few egr gaskets(99 cents) from Miami because I couldn't find them here...they guy at the store told me to build the gasket myself from rubber and epoxy....go figure!
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    well keith,
    I left the car at the store, told them to call me when they were ready to look at it and give me an estimate of the work, as you told me I left the pdf file with them. 5 hours later I was called . When I got to the store they had gotten under the hood and did what I didn't even ask. end of story, I didn't pay for what they did since i was not even given an estimate. the argument got really rough, the guy in charge even told me that cleaning the egr passages will definitely damage the manifold. I guess they are used to ripping people off.

    So the egr ports were not cleaned. I will buy the slide hammer and do it myself

    I noticed a small coolant leak so I inspected and it is coming out of one of the ATF cooler hoses (the one on the condenser fan side) . The coolant looks like coming between the big nut that holds the pipe to the radiator. My question is Can I unscrew/screw over that pipe ? The manual I have doesn't show the dissemble of such part..I am posting the pic so you can see what I am asking about.


    My question is . Can I take that piece off the radiator body, clean it, tighten it back or should I replace the whole radiator?
  • The radiator uses plastic tanks. This means it cannot usually be repaired. I have cobbled together sleeves and tried to re-enforce cracked areas on the SE-R, but the new radiator for the Civic(Koyo)was only like $60 on eBay.
  • The brake fluid in my clutch reservoir keeps getting low. I keep having to add fluid or else my clutch pedal sinks. I've checked around the reservoir and don't see any fluid around. Where else could it be going and how do I fix it?
  • The brake fluid in my clutch reservoir keeps getting low. I keep having to add fluid or else my clutch pedal sinks. I've checked around the reservoir and don't see any fluid around. Where else could it be going and how do I fix it?

    I had to replace the slave cylinder for the clutch.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    It would be dripping on the ground, underneath your car. See any fluid on the floor in your garage?
  • I had no external leaking on mine.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    it had to be going somewhere. it's supposed to be a closed system right? probably it was dripping out where it was not immediately noticed, perhaps onto the frame or another part and got either burned off or spun off or pushed off when the vehicle was at speed.

    it wasn't evaporating. (at least i don't think it can do that). :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If it's anything like a brake master cylinder, the fluid just bypasses the seals on the shaft causing a loss of pressure, but nothing leaks externally.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well his original post was that the resevoir continually gets low, and he has to refill it. It's leaking out somewhere!!
  • Where is the TCU located on a 91 Honda Accord LX?
  • It's parked on stained asphalt so it'll ba heard to tell. I guess I'll put a rag or something directly below the cylinder and let ya know.
  • The problem started with both front brakes sticking, (bring you to a stop with no brakes applied @ 35 mph). I have replaced front calipers, master cylinder, front rubber brake lines & proportioning valve. All new except, proportioning valve (salvage yard). I have bleed the brakes all 4 wheels. The problem now is one of the front brakes is still sticking. If I bleed the one that is sticking, then the one that was turning is sticking.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well IMO your symptoms point to the master cylinder, lines, or proportioning valve not releasing the fluid back into the master cylinder when you release the brake. But you've swapped out everything but the lines.

    Is the brake pedal itself working freely, with spring return?

    Are there some other clues here that you haven't given? Like dirt/rust got into the mastercylinder (and may be lodged in the line), or the car was in an accident (and may have a pinched brake line), or ???
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Something I just thought of :surprise: . Did you make sure the rod on the new master cylinder was the same length as the one you removed? If the rod is too long, it will not fully release the brake pressure. Hope you find the problem,,, good luck.
  • ok if you have a intake on your car thi is the problem when you have and intake the car will run more faster reason why is because is sucking more air the reason why your rpm goes up and down even if you dont have an intake on it ok adjusted by disconnecting the electrical connector from the air control (iac) valve ,and pry out the concealment plug from the throttle body then close to that vacuum theres a screw like inside a hold turn that screw to optain the specific idle the original should be 75000rpm but depending on the condition of the car i normally recomend to 10000rpm if need more help write back good luck
  • you either have air in the lines or you need to check the back brake the bushings make sure their not leaking on that your calipers are good usually if you put one caliper the other goes bad normally i recomend to put both new caliper good luck
  • check the clutch release cilinder and meake sure is not leaking or corrude of dirt or anithing also check your lines and make sure their not broken or anithing
Sign In or Register to comment.