Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

1161719212242

Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You can tell when your clutch is worn, when while driving in high gear and you try to accelerate more, the clutch will slip. Engine rpm's will go up, but the car won't necessarily accelerate. You don't have long to go at all, at that point.

    The reason this happens first in high gear, is that in low gear (first)...the gearing gives the engine power over the wheels. In high gear, the gearing gives the wheels power over the engine.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If it's not slipping then just drive it, but as soon as you notice slippage, take it in right away, lest you damage the flywheel.
  • automoronautomoron Member Posts: 8
    Thanks. So by noticing slippage, do you just mean the lack of acceleration with increased RPMs when in high gear as kiawah was referring to, or is there another way to notice slippage. (As I have never experienced this, I'm not sure what to look for). Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    It will feel like you put in the clutch while you are driving down the road. The RPM's will rev up, but the car doesn't go any faster than it was.

    Drive down the interstate in high gear. Floor the accelerator. If the car begins to pick up speed and the rpm's gradually build you are okay.

    If on the other hand if you floor the accelerator, and the engine revs but the car doesn't go faster.....head directly to the shop.
  • automoronautomoron Member Posts: 8
    Great explanation, thanks! Just curious... can difficulty shifting into first gear be a sign of needing a new clutch as well? (happens some of the time, not all) Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    No, that is an indicator that your clutch is out of adjustment.

    Your clutch pedal moves the throwout bearing against the fingers on the pressure plate. The pressure plate and engine flywheel form the bread of a sandwich, with the clutch plate as the bologne in the middle. When the fingers of the pressure plate are pushed in, the pressure plate (one piece of bread) moves away from the flywheel slightly (the other piece of bread), which allows the bologne to slip.

    So if the clutch doesn't depress the fingers enough, the pressure plate still grabs the bologne and spins the transmission shaft, thereby grinding the gears a little.

    Your original problem of a worn clutch, says that the bologne is too thin. The bread can't grip it enough to keep it spinning. The bread would spin when you accelerate the engine, but the bologne being too thin, slips and doesn't spin.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    with the clutch plate as the bologne in the middle

    which allows the bologne to slip.

    the bologne is too thin. The bread can't grip it enough to keep it spinning. The bread would spin when you accelerate the engine, but the bologne being too thin, slips and doesn't spin.


    Wouldn't ham have been easier to type? ;)
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I started w/ham....but needed a circular image visual to appear in your mind, to represent the clutch plate... ;)

    Guess I could have said a DVD.
  • drakarrdrakarr Member Posts: 2
    Was wondering if anyone can tell me where I can locate the oil pressure sender ? I have a 1992 Honda Accord Sedan and my oil light keeps comming on after driving about 15 minutes and comming to a stop or idle but my oil is fine. Can someone help me locate this ?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Nah, not even a helping of mayo or mustard could make a DVD taste good in a sandwich. :) I was just picking on ya...
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I think the sensor is just above where the filter is. When the oil light was coming on in my 92, it was because the screen on the oil pickup in the oil pan was getting clogged. It would only come on when the engine was at low rpm (idling).
  • drakarrdrakarr Member Posts: 2
    So did you correct this problem by just cleaning out the oil pan ? Thanks for your help
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    It's a good idea to clean out the pan too, but it's the screen on the oil pump pickup that really needed to be cleaned. Removing the oil pan is no picnic, just so you know.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    wouldn't SPAM have been a better alternative than bologne? :blush:
  • automoronautomoron Member Posts: 8
    Of all the suggestions, I still prefer bologna (you did actually have the spelling wrong, kiawah ;) ). I did try the freeway test last night on the way home from work, and my clutch isn't done yet. Any thoughts from the group on my "sub questions"? Price to expect to pay for new clutch, and dealer vs. non-dealer? Thanks!!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I still prefer bologna (you did actually have the spelling wrong),

    Just shows you I don't do the shopping, well actually I don't do any shopping :P

    Regarding the price for clutch job.....you already got one estimate (1K) for the job, call around to other shops in the area to get competitive quotes. Would vary a little by region. You can also call some parts places to find out what parts would run. Price out a clutch plate, throwout bearing, and pressure plate....that will get you in the ballpark.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Just buy a new sensor and see what happens before you tear into the engine or oil pan. Could very well be clogged oil screen, but a sensor is cheaper and easier. You could also just screw in an analog oil pressure gauge and see what's really going on--this way no guesses.

    How many miles on this engine?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    My feeling was that the sensor would cause the oil light to come on randomly, not just at idle (or low rpm). Which is what pointed me towards the oil pump screen. It happens to a lot of ooooold Accords. Not nearly as bad as Toyota engines, ;) but the sludge does build up over time, and the screen is pretty close to the bottom of the pan, where sludge builds up. Sometimes, a dent in the oil pan can also cause low oil pressure. People love to lower their Accords and oil pans get dented all the time. You can always try the sensor first, but IMO, it would be a waste of time and $$$.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes I follow your reasoning, which is good, but what puzzles me is that that much sludge would surely clog the oil screen at any speed. Now it COULD be the pickup tube is partially dislodged or leaking suction.

    I wonder how many miles on this engine. If it's a very high miles then it could just be worn bearings.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    When the rpms are higher, the pump can actually pull the sludge through the screen. It's at low rpm that the pump can only get a trickle through the screen. What really cinches it for me is when he said the oil light does not come on right away, only after driving for a little while. The screen gets more and more clogged as you drive, and the pump sucks up more sludge.

    All this does not mean 100% that the screen is the problem, but it does have all the symptoms.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well I'll be interested to see what he finds. I would have interpreted the delayed oil light coming on to the fact that the oil thins out as the engine heats up, and thus runs through the worn bearings even faster--causing the drop in oil pressure.

    But as you say, simplest things first. Don't you think screwing in an oil gauge is a good idea? If the pressure is good, then the sensor is bad. If the pressure is bad, then either the oil screen is clogged, oil pickup tube dislodged, or bearings are shot.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    That would be a good idea, if he could do this himself, or have someone do it cheap. Cleaning the screen would be free, for me. ;) But I guess hooking up a gauge would be easier, just to be sure.

    PS: I just hope he comes back with some answers, after all this. ;):D
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah me too!

    Dropping a pan sounds like a messy hassle kind of thing.

    Buy new oil.
    Buy a filter
    Buy a new pan gasket
    Jack up the car
    Remove the pan
    clean the screen
    scrape off the old gasket
    install the new gasket
    install the pan
    install the oil
    install the filter
    let the car down
    pour old oil into containers
    take container to recyclers.

    Phew! (I'm making too big a deal out of this, aren't I? :blush: )
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    And one other step (at least). Removing part of the exhaust, so you can get the pan completely off without loosing your sanity. :surprise:
  • leodogleodog Member Posts: 7
    1990 Accord EX
    The brake lights and all other lights work ok. Problem is that when the park or headlights are turned on , the brake lights come on as well. When you hit the brake pedal the lights just dim a little but stay on. When the park or headlights are off , the brake lights work fine.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Check your rear brake light bulbs, for a bad bulb. One of the filaments is most likely broken, and laying against the other filament (within the bulb).
  • 116549116549 Member Posts: 17
    I just added some Sea Foam idle improver to my air intake pipe, and man! My idle has improved greatly! I bet it would improve a lot more if I remove the whole throttle body, but pouring some in is very beneficial!
  • jasiminehjasimineh Member Posts: 3
    CAN SOMEONE HELP! i was driving up a hill when all of a sudden my car wouldnt go more than 30 mph. it will start and go into gear but it wont pick up speed. i am taking it to the shop fri but i wanted an idea before i take it
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Sounds like it's time for a new clutch. When a clutch is going, it will usually slip in high gear, or like you said, going up hill.
  • jasiminehjasimineh Member Posts: 3
    Its not slipping there is white smoke coming out the pipe and the rpms r high. i just replaced the clutch in aug ($700) now this. could it be the converter cause i noticed where the clutch is really heats up when running for a while.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Suspect a blown head gasket, with coolant leaking into the pistons. Do a compression test on the cylinders.
  • jasiminehjasimineh Member Posts: 3
    Could it be the catalac converter. a couple of months ago i got the muffler replaced and they told me it was also going bad. also my dad rebuilt the engine last year. would the converter make it lose power like that?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The white smoke is a telltale sign of making steam from water. Betting that he's missing coolant and has been filling it up periodically. Water and metal don't go well together.
  • joykatjoykat Member Posts: 1
    Our 1993 was experiencing the same problems at 120,000 miles.
    After deciding it was an electrical problem, we removed the plastic cover for the gear shift lever and used contact cleaner on several wires and contacts there. That made all the difference and now starts and shifts out of gear correctly. A very easy and quick repair. I wish someone had told us how to do this trick, we figured it out on our own. So hopefully this will someone out there.
  • cstout73cstout73 Member Posts: 9
    I checked my ABS code. The ABS light comes on and goes off normally when the Key is turned on. Then it blinks with one blink and then nothing. After a few seconds a nother 'one blink' and then nothing. After a few seconds a final 'one blink' and then nothing. That is it.
    What does that mean?
  • 116549116549 Member Posts: 17
    Do you have any pictures for steps on how to replace the fuel filter? I know it is under the vacuum device and you have to unscrew the two bolts, but after that, I am not very keen on what to do.
  • 116549116549 Member Posts: 17
    okay, replaced the filter, and so far runs great! I hope that was the problem, it was pretty much the only thing that was left to do!
  • lil_llama89lil_llama89 Member Posts: 5
    ok, i drive a 1991 honda accord. it has approxomatly 300k miles on it but this problem didnt seem to start until about this saturday. i noticed that my car started getting excessivley hot only after a little drive. but the thing is.....is that during my drive the temperature reading would go up to the H and then all the sudden gradually decend back to the middle after i switched gears. (car is a stick shift by the way). but then the car would get hot again. at first i thought it was the radiator so i flushed it and added more anti-freeze, but for some reason...the car only got hotter the next time i drove it. and then someone told me that it may be the water pump but they werent sure cause nothing was leaking. then someone told me it was the thermostat...but i really have no idea as to whats going on....can someone help me. oh and can someone also tell me appproxomatly the amount of labor hours i should expect to be charged for just so when i take the car in i know how much im lookin at. that is ...if its the thermostat.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If it is the thermostat, it shouldn't cost too much (easy to change). Do both of the cooling fans come on when the A/C is turned on? If you like, you can click on the link below. It has a lot of information on this subject. Good luck.

    http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    This may be a stupid question.
    Are you just looking at the gauge or is it blowing steam from under the hood?
    Is the water low after getting hot?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd swap out the thermostat and if that doesn't work I'd test for a head gasket leak before removing the water pump.

    Rapid overheating from a cold start is not a good sign. Could be the exhaust gases boiling water. But a bad thermostat could give this symptom. I don't think a bad water pump (broken impeller?) would allow the temp gauge to recover at all.
  • vegetenzvegetenz Member Posts: 2
    Hi I have a 92 LX wagon and I wanted to know if there is any difference between the 2.2L in a 92 compared to a 94 2.2L. I'm asking because my local library has the chilton manual for the 94 but not my 92.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Most things concerning engines and transmissions will be the same. The body style changed, so some parts may be different. I'd say 90% or more will be the same.
  • rabatvillarabatvilla Member Posts: 1
    Hello

    92 Accord LX that runs very rough after sitting for 10 to 12 hrs. Sometime its so bad I cannot keep the car running, running on one maybe two cylinders. If I floor it it will run rough for a bit and then kick in and runs great. Can feel cylinders kicking in one at time. Has new plugs, rotor,cap, and valves just adjusted.

    Could this be fule injectors? Or????

    Thank you
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Sounds like you could have a distributor problem. When you take the cap off, is there a metal dust present? Did you check for spark at each plug?
  • mm04mm04 Member Posts: 16
    I have a 92 Accord EX with a problem.

    The car seems to be stuck in 3rd gear when I start off from a standstill. I can manually select all forward gears, however it appears that I only have two forward gears working (2nd and 3rd). Neutral, Reverse and Park all work fine.

    At first the D4 light started blinking. Now it stays on regardless of which gear I select. Jumping the blue (2-wire) connector does not result in the D4 light blinking (indicating any codes).

    I have read where these models have a history of burned resistors and leaking capacitors in the Transmission Control Module (TCM). I haven’t pulled the TCM to see yet.

    Does the symptoms I describe indicate a bad TCM?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Yes, if the D4 light stays on continuously, it's probably the TCU. You can open it up, and you will probably see dark spots on the circuit board from leaking capacitors. I don't know if they are repairable. If I were you I would try to find a used one in a junkyard (from a wrecked car). A new one, if you could get a new one, would cost a bundle. Good luck.
  • honda169honda169 Member Posts: 2
    i just changed my clucth and i put everything back together and now my starter is not starting the car what could it be i changed the sylniod for the starter but its still doing it
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I am just guessing here, but could it be the clutch position switch. The starter will not work without the clutch pedal pushed down, so I suspect the switch was knocked out of alignment while working on the clutch. Not sure where the switch is, but I would look under the dash near the clutch pedal arm. Good luck.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I am just guessing here, but could it be the clutch position switch. The starter will not work without the clutch pedal pushed down, so I suspect the switch was knocked out of alignment while working on the clutch.

    I'm not a mechanic, but this was my thought as well.
Sign In or Register to comment.