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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • hpmhansehpmhanse Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 honda accord and when it gets warmed up and settles down to a decent idle (around 1000 on the tach) the steering columns vibrates something fierce. I have a suspicion the motor mounts are completely shot. When I give the car any gas the vibrations go away. Any ideas?
  • bioraybioray Member Posts: 3
    nothing has happened yet! I'm so glad that my state has no emission test.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    sounds a little high for the idle (1K). Maybe 750 or so.

    yeah, a broken or failing engine mount.

    there's a test for it. you can google it. i think it involves putting the brake on with the vehicle in gear and applying a bit of throttle to see if the engine moves appreciably. maybe it is in the accord '02 forum, but something should be found on the web.
  • ece3446ece3446 Member Posts: 32
    Hi all,
    I have a Honda Accord 1997 with 202000 miles on it (Auto, 4cyl) that seems to have spongy brake. Every time I step on it I feel like I am going to hit the floor. Is this a known issue and if not what needs to be done about it?
    Thanks.
    P.S. I recently changed my disk pads and shoes.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    While the brake pedal feel is much softer than that of newer Accords (I probably push the pedal twice as far to stop in my 1996 Accord than in my 2006), if you feel there could be a problem, have your brake master cylinder checked for leaks. Mine had to be replaced around 160k miles.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Spongy brakes are a sign of air in the system. You would have to bleed the brakes, to get the air out. If the brake fluid is dirty, or hasn't been changed in 3 years, you may want to change it now. If the pedal sinks to the floor, the master cylinder could be leaking. A leaking master cylinder will not leak out (you will not see fluid coming out of the master cylinder) it is only bypassing the seal on the cylinder shaft. Here's a link describing the bleeding process. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.
    http://syclone.motocrew.com/CG5/brakebleed.htm
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    Hey that was my 1000th post!! Aww mann I wanted it to be the title of that post! I'm glad My 1000th post is pretty much in the room I made my very 1st post before I got my car almost 2years ago!!

    Just wanted to say thanks to everyone(esp mamamia) for all the help with my car over the last 1.9years!

    Cheers! Many more reliable years with this great car and this great forum for info! Its been a great 1000... Well 1001 now!

    -Cj
  • shadingdingshadingding Member Posts: 16
    Hello lists,

    I have 97 Honda Accord with 82,000 miles on. The wheels need alignment (by local mechanic shop). I am also planning to change both sides of drive axles because of broken CV joints (DIY).

    I am wondering if I would change drive axles after alignment or vice versa. Are these two systems close related? Does it matter in order?

    Thanks for your reply in advance.

    sdd
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    Always do the CV joints first, and then take it to a reputable shop (not every mechanic can do an alignment, and you need special, large equipment for that... body shops do it usually) for an alignment.
  • nitro74dnitro74d Member Posts: 2
    I live in Alaska where temps can get as low as negative 60 degrees. I have been looking around for a frost plug for my honda so I can plug it in at night. I went to Napa, and a place called Schucks with both are reputable auto parts stores up here. However they both had me sold on what they say is the only kind of frost plug for my car. I compared both of them and they were the same plug, except napa's gave the detailed instructions on where to install it. Easy huh? Well, I went home and pulled the seal out where it say's to put the frost plug and there wasn't any threads in the hole where it should have been. The plug I received had a threaded end which would just screw into the engine block. Does anyone know if they make a different plug meant for my car and where I could find one. Or, with out having to take off a bunch of parts where is the location to install it. I looked all over where I could visibly see with a light and the only hole was in the rear (firewall) center of the block, but that wasn't it.

    Help please,

    Nitro74d
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I'd suggest redoing the front struts while you are at it. Save you a re-alignment and hassle later.
  • ece3446ece3446 Member Posts: 32
    Thanks guys for all the info.
  • jshaw01jshaw01 Member Posts: 3
    I just found your post while searching for solutions to the same problem on a '94 Accord.
    Did you get the problem corrected?
    What the heck is the O2 sensor heater?
    Thank you.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I think it's part of the sensor.
  • sfranzosfranzo Member Posts: 6
    All 1997 Accords have 150,000 mile warranty on emissions. (U.S. Govt. settlement) I brought it to the dealer and they replaced the oxygen sensor #1. Problem fixed.
  • nitro74dnitro74d Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know where the frost plug hole is on the block of a Honda Accord? Or if there even is one on my particular model?

    I bought a plug which they told me fits, however I have not been able to locate the place it belongs in.

    Thanks for any help.

    Charles
  • bobintampabobintampa Member Posts: 10
    Does anyone have a good experience ordering new floor mats for a '97 Accord (EX 4-dr) online? I'm going to stop by a dealer at lunch today to see what they retail for there. Thanks in advance! :)
  • johnsautojohnsauto Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1994 honda accord. continues to fail ASM emmission test.
    HC ppm = 1800 allowed 127, NOx 1600 allowed 910.
    replaced the catalytic coverter (results were reduced to 300 NOx ppm, HC remained 1800.
    Replace the oxygen sensor HC ppm = 2000, NOx=1600 both failed,
    Timing is good,
    No vacuum leaks,
    Plugs have been replace.
    How can I reduce readings to within allowable limits?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    This is a misfire problem I think. Maybe you should do a compression test or at least a cylinder balance test to see if you're beating your head against a very thick wall, like a burned valve or tight valves that need adjusting (I THINK you can adjust the valves on that engine---not sure).

    But such high HC is almost always an incomplete combustion issue, i.e., ignition or related.

    Maybe funky injectors?
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    I posted my question is here on Edmunds Answers. Same title.

    Brief Summary: Larger cooling fan not working. Replaced motor($48), sender($32) & sensor($12), and checked fuse by switching wtih power windows. Windows still worked. Still no action from larger fan(the right looking into car. Left from drivers seat) while smaller A/C fan is still working. Need Ideas, a part name, or repair place. Local mechanic recommend sensor and sender change. When hot wired to the battery, larger fan worked perfectly... but I cant leave it like that!

    I asked at Autoparts Advance. He recommended a Temperature Switch change($44).

    Car gets to 3 quaters hot but thats as high as it will go as running my A/C provides some cooling as smaller a/C fan still runs. Not the Thermostat as when it says the car is getting hot, it starts to act sluggish and the interior begins to feel hot. Only noticed at red lights. While moving(25+mph not and directly behind someone like traffic), mother nature cools the car down to normal operating temperature.

    Currently Carpooling and Driving Dad's Expedition (OMG IT CAN BURN $80 IN GAS IN NO TIME!!) and can't wait to be back in my own seat and to stop paying $80 in gas...

    image

    :sick: -Cj
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Don't know for sure if your car has one, but have you checked the fan timer? Read this link on overheating. It may give you some ideas on what's causing this. If you scroll down the page, it shows how to test the fan, relay, switch, etc.)Good luck :)
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    Thanks, I'll need every bit of it!! I miss my car!! :cry: I fixed the antenna so it could go up and down, used chevron gasoline and the chevron additive, washed waxed and vaccumed it , and bought a sunpass all for it to get "warm" the following day. :sick:

    Good news is that there is this nice 1994 Acura Vigor MT sitting at the local dealer :blush: ... :P They want $3,700 and its whistle clean too!!! Iheart5cyl's too!! BUT thats if my car kicks the bucket beyond repair and I find $3,700...

    -Cj
  • jewelbjewelb Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone point me in the direction of a good Honda mechanic in the Annapolis, MD area. I have a '95 Accord EX with 185,440 miles and it didn't pass the emissions test! HC was .7436 that passed. CO was 9.7428 that passed. My problem is the NOx it was 3.7803 and it should not be over 2.1000.

    I also have a few other problems that I would like to have fixed. I love my baby and have been driving her for the last 12 years. I bought her brand new and have taken good care of her. She's just getting a little old and I need someone who can help me take care of her!
  • 97accordexr97accordexr Member Posts: 1
    Yeah, I got some taupe ones for my '97 on Ebay from magautoparts...they're a Honda dealer... they have some for about $75. I got them 2 years ago now, they fit and match perfectly...it's your best my IMHO.
  • yankeey2gyankeey2g Member Posts: 5
    Update: 2/17/2008

    I wrote this post about poor mpg when I first got my accord. The mpg was so bad that I was even thinking about getting rid of the car. Well I’m glad I didn’t.

    It seems that city driving is terrible on my car. I get about 200-15 per 13-14 gallon tank. The car performs completely different on long hauls. I took a 250 miles trip today and only used half a tank of gas (I filled up on ‘regular’ from Mobil). I was cruising between 60-75 mph most of the time. I haven’t done much work on the car. I did a tune up (plugs, wires, fuel filter) and added a can of valvoline Fuel Injector cleaner about 2 months ago.

    Do you think the mpg will increase by adding a cold air intake? The muffler is also shot dead - the join to the exhaust pipes is rotten and pretty much broken off.

    Thanks for your help!
  • acarp41acarp41 Member Posts: 1
    I've been having the same problem. I have a 1995 V6 and it's been doing it intermittently for months. I got new spark plugs and a distributer cap and a new speed sensor for it and it still does it. What do i do now?
  • pj_columbiapj_columbia Member Posts: 12
    jewelb - I've had someone recommend Accurate Automotive on Chincoping Ave as providing reliable maintenance. According to their web site, they only deal with Acuras and Hondas. I live in Columbia and found that Foreign Auto Experts in Elkridge to be very reliable. I've taken my '95 Accord there for years and they worked on my '90 Accord when necessary. Good luck!

    PJ
  • megs3441megs3441 Member Posts: 1
    my car was overheating, we replaced the thermostat and it worked for a while, then it started to overheat again. so we flushed the radiator and it was just fine while we ran it the last time. then i went to put it in gear and it wouldnt go. tried turning it off and turning it back on. still nothing.

    so then i turned it off and now it wont turn over. tried pushing it while it was in gear [clutch was in], and the car wouldnt go. put it in neutral and parked it. now it wont go back into gear.

    aaah! help!
  • joecool1816joecool1816 Member Posts: 3
    About 2 weeks ago my car stopped running out of the blue i had driven it 2 hrs prior and it started and ran just fine. After checking the compression the following day and finding that that wasn't the problem i changed the spark plugs and it started on the first try although there was some oil in the 2nd spark plug cylinder from the right. 2 days later same thing all over again.. drove home from work about a 15-20 min drive without any problems and still wouldn't start the next day... pulled the plugs again and the plug from the 2nd cylinder definitely looked "black" not oil but carbon. Also i changed the air filter, wire set, and the valve cover gasket. When all was said and done the car started once again definitely running alot rougher than before though... come to find out that the 2nd cylinder from the right wasn't firing in the correct sequence or at all i couldn't tell. :confuse: My Dimwhitted friend who was helping me at the time decided that he would try to adjust the timing by rotating the distributor to see if he could get the 2nd cylinder to fire at all, needless to say i was not a big fan of that idea because i know how important timing is to an engine, so he took it upon himself to do it while i was making a pit stop. Still started repeadly after that lil adjustment but did not fix the problem. At this point we decided to call it a day and when i tried to start the car the next day back to square 1 with the whole not starting problem again. Dont know if ive given u enough info or too much for that matter but any help u can offer me is greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • polo1107polo1107 Member Posts: 2
    You are experiencing the same thing I'm experiencing. I too have a 1997 Accord lx with a 2.2 engine. I am receiving the same exactly calculations in gas mileage per gallon as you described. Hoping to remedy the poor gas mileage problem, I replaced my spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, air filter and fuel filter all last Friday. After I replaced all the parts I did a 275 mile trip and it used just under half the tank of gas. But I returned home and started driving work again, and it appears I am back to the 14 mpg problem. One thing I did notice when changing out my spark plugs was oil in the spark plug holes. I'm wondering if this is causing the poor gas mileage. Did you notice oil around your spark plugs when you changed them out?
    I only drive 3 miles to work daily in cold weather and my car has 157000 miles. Not sure if 14 miles per gallon city driving is normal given the age of the car and the driving conditions. I'm going to purchase a new valve cover gasket kit and some fuel injection cleaner additives to see if it will fix the problem. Please let me know you have found a fix or if you have any suggestions. I'll also keep you updated. thanks, polo
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    There are two seams down the spark plug tubes that can leak oil into the tubes. If you look down the tubes with a flashlight, you can see them. The valve cover seam, and the rocker arm assembly seam. When the oil gets high enough in the spark plug tube, it will short the plug causing the engine to run pretty bad. Changing the o-rings under the rocker arms is a much more complicated job than the valve cover seals. If you don't have someone with experience to help you, I would advise having an expert change them. There are how-to links on the web that have pictures and details on this. Good luck
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I only drive 3 miles to work daily in cold weather and my car has 157000 miles. Not sure if 14 miles per gallon city driving is normal given the age of the car and the driving conditions.

    Whoa, whoa, whoa. Your car doesn't even have time to warm up. It's running extra fuel the whole commute trying to get your car to normal temp. Combine that with winter fuel, city driving, and any extra warm-up time your car has, AND the fact that you get great highway mileage, and I'd say there's nothing wrong with your car. 3 miles is a painfully short commute; painful for mileage, that is. I used to get under 20 MPG in my 1996 LX years ago when my commute was 2.5 miles. Now that its 13 miles, my MPG averages 28 now, 30 if there's more highway than average.

    I'd say nothing major is wrong if you're getting 275 miles on half a tank (8.5 gallons) when doing highway driving. That's over 32 MPG, on a car with an EPA estimate of 31 hwy. You're doing fine, it's just your short commute that really hurts you.

    Elroy, wouldn't you agree that this is the main reason for such low mileage?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Right grad. I drive 1 mile or less to work and back twice a day (lunch), so I don't even want to know what kind of mileage I'm getting. I know it's not good.:( There's not much I can do about it. If I drove around for 30 minutes before going to work, I would get better mileage, but I would still be burning more gas. I'm certainly not going to move, or get a job farther away from home, just to raise my mileage. :blush:
  • polo1107polo1107 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks everyone for your quick reply. I guess I'm doing fine with the mileage. I really appreciate your suggestions. I will try to change out those O-rings and gasket as soon as possible. Elroy would you happen to have those HOW-TO links on changing out those gaskets. Right now it seems the car is running fine but I'm not sure how long I can run the car with oil in the spark plug tubes before I start seeing a decrease in performance.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Each time you remove the spark plug from the tube, the oil goes down into the cylinder. So it will run ok, until the oil rises high enough to short the plug wire again. I will try to find the link for you.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Here you go. I found this one doing a search (oil in spark plug tubes on Accord). If you want to read more than one, there are probably 100s of them on the internet. Good luck, and have fun. Link below.
    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/oilyplugs/index.html

    PS: This is not an easy job, so if you don't know what you're doing (somewhat mechanically inclined), like they say "don't try this at home". One guy said the dealership was going to charge $350 to do this job.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i can't imagine that short commuting over and over being good for your mileage, your cat convertor, or the longevity of your oil.
  • trumpcartrumpcar Member Posts: 10
    Ok everyone pros and cons: F20 vs. H22, which one do you think
  • bloodflowbloodflow Member Posts: 2
    is my fuel filler neck coveredin the service bulletin 98-081 i have a 96 honda accrd lx 4cyl automatic tran with 105000 miles on it
  • hondacthondact Member Posts: 1
    Ok -
    so I finally found a decent 94 accord LX in the neighborhood. (my old 94 was stolen two weeks ago and I was desperately seeking a similar one!)

    There are few problems with the car - i'm wondering about how much I should expect to spend on the following:

    1) the power locks don't work - if i try to lock from inside, nothing happens so i have to manually push down the lock. And the rear windows do not open - I assume the wiring is messed up?

    2) the speedometer doesn't work - it stays at 20mph the whole time - sometimes it goes up and down a bit, but it's definitely not working

    3) the antenna is broken off

    Any ideas on how much i should expect to spend?
  • djsg143djsg143 Member Posts: 20
    Overall my car is good but recently has been "acting up"

    1) Engine lacks power
    2) sometimes after starting once I engage R. the RPM's drop noticibly, like it is about to stall.

    3)After driving a bit I have gotten used to the smell of oil buring but not out of the exhaust, I have a small leak that drips on the exhaust pipe.

    But the big one:

    4) I cleaned the K&N air filter and replaced it and was about to change the sparks when I noticed a lot of oil on 3 of 4 plugs. I was extremely upset since I have had this issue in the past and EVERY mechanic recommended a valve cover (cheap part, 1 hr labor). I have done it once a year for the past 5 years already :sick: and feel that there is another problem causing this. Any ideas?

    Also can I continue to drive like this. I have to drop off a B-day gift for my cousin downstate (A Wii game) and really want to get it to him but am worried about the Black Pearl (My car) :confuse:

    One last question: Could the problem relate to my EGR or my Valves needing work and can I do that myself? (I'm a bit broke at the moment, otherwise I'd be in the 2008 V6 Accord Coupe :shades: )
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    The Speedometer cluster is bad.
    Don't let anyone tell you it is the speed sensor. If the cruse control works the VSS is okay.
    Been there done that, I got a used Speedometer for $200.00

    If you replace the head only, Caution the assembly screws are also electrical connections , do not over tighten. the connecters will break.

    Look at complete Assy parts at:Honda calls it a COMBINATION METER .

    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=1994&catcgry3=4DR+EX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=COMBINATION+M- ETER+COMPONENTS
  • nbsmurdonnbsmurdon Member Posts: 1
    Great site...thanks in advance for any help you might be able to give.

    Have a '96 LX sedan and the radio has been going in/out for some time now. Display stays on, just loses sound. Doesn't matter if I'm listening to AM, FM or CDs. When it goes out, it varies from a loud "pop" and then no sound to a gentle fade (like I've lost reception). When it comes back on it does the same.

    No rhyme or reason to how it happens or when it happens. My initial reaction is that there is a connection between the radio and the speakers that has come loose.

    If so, does this mean I have to tear into the dash?

    Any other likely culprits?
  • rwyatt80rwyatt80 Member Posts: 4
    I noticed that when I make a turn in my 96 accord lx, I hear a popping noise from rear of vehicle...sounds like it is in the trunk. The noise isn't consistent, just every once in a while. Any ideas as to what this could be???
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    Well in the midst of all the bad news, I just thought to pop in and say i changed my spark plug wires. As of day 4, NO MISFIRES(Skipping)!!! But oddly, my odometer is working perfectly again... If I said it once, I've said it twice, Things in this car work when they want to.

    Oh and I fixed my antenna problem uninstalled it, fed the cord through again and all is fine a month later. The only hint of bad news I have is the odometer being behind a just a little bit ;):blush: , and the small oil leak I have now. I think that citrus sent( :lemon: ) has just about faded away.

    -Cj
  • shawtyjloshawtyjlo Member Posts: 5
    #1. I have a 97 accord ex & love it. when i first got it, it had 62,000 miles on it. six years later, i am at 242,000 miles later. about a year ago, my car wouldnt start. it wasnt the starter. I had to roll it and then pop the clutch. that worked for a couple of months then all of a sudden, if i let it idle to low, it would clunk out. so my neighbor put a toggle switch on it. all i know is that there is a wire running to the toggle button to under my hood. all i have to do is turn the ignition to on and push the button. i am so scared my car will catch on fire or something. does anyone think that it could be my ignition switch gone bad. i replaced my clutch too but it wasnt that either. but still sometimes, my car will not start when i push the button.

    #2. last week i noticed that my ABS light kept coming on randomly out of the blue either as i riding along the road or when i stop. i hear something click for a little while. also i having been hearing a vacuum sound every now and then but thats been going on for a while. Or my radio goes off and on for no reason. but now i noticed especially when i stop at a light or sign, my ABS light comes on, my lights go dim, and my radio goes off and comes back on. it seems to happen when i push my clutch in. does anyone know what is going on before i go to the Honda place and spend too much money on something simple?
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    #2. last week i noticed that my ABS light kept coming on randomly

    I don't think your ABS light is related to your dim lights and haunted radio. What you describe sounds like your ABS pump is going out. That is pretty common in Accords/Acuras. Mine went out long before 100k but I never replaced it because the dealer wanted $1600.

    The vacuum sound is the pump trying to come on. It finally gives up and stops working and then the light comes on. Oddly enough, the one time in all those years that I needed the ABS, they actually worked... even though the light was on. Saved me from a guardrail in the snow.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I don't think your ABS light is related to your dim lights and haunted radio. What you describe sounds like your ABS pump is going out. That is pretty common in Accords/Acuras.

    Well, Accords and Acuras of this vintage, anyway. I've never heard of problems with the 1998-current Accords.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    That is true, grad... I should have added that part.
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    Does this apply to you? Click on "print version" for more info.
    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls/results.cfm

    Regards
    Corkscrew
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